DIY Air Conditioner install in your vintage camper retro RV travel trailer. 

Using condensate to help coil the condenser coil for additional heat flow management. Awesome. I learned something new today.

Make a special slide-out for the air conditioner. When you're pulling the trailer down the road, the unit slides into the interior and when you're parked, the unit slides out. Just like the slide outs that extend your interior.

I’m starting my remodel this winter and these videos are so helpful! Thank you!!

Thanks for sharing this. So helpful! Truly appreciated.

very cool thanks for sharing

I live in Arkansas and it gets extremely humid here, the ac without drains really struggle and frankly do not work. I have drilled my own drain holes in all four that I own. One is a HUGE 220 unit. I can tell you that the ac without a drain is a peace of junk until that hole drain is there and if it was enclosed it would sling water all over the place from the fan in the back.

I think you have a great idea here… Here is my thoughts…. When towing in the rain, water will definitely find its way up into those 3 vent holes underneath the ac. In addition to that moisture, the moisture from the ac will accumulate, possibly causing mold conditions, which will then circulate throughout the camper when the ac is on… unless you think the airflow from those 3 holes will create enough movement to prevent mold? When you normally put those ac units outside where it hangs out your window, they get lots of airflow, and sunlight. Same with a rooftop rv ac. This unit being hidden in a cabinet is a cool idea… but I don’t know long term how it will last… time will tell I guess. Love your videos!

Looks like a good solution for a vexing problem. I wish I knew this 2 years ago when I was trying to install one of those AC units in my Scamp. Had to go with an external unit, which works fine but is a pain to haul in and out! Great info about the short cycling, too. So many dudes online have no idea what that is, why it happens, or how to solve it. Hell, some manufacturers don't get it, either. Just look at the misery being caused by Braxton Creek on some of their new $20K campers that have AC that doesn't work!

really great. thanks

Good info .. thx!

It's not old technology that needs a drain. The condenser removes humidity from the air, hence "air conditioning". Perhaps you're not in a very humid area, but, where I am(North Texas), one 5000 BTU window unit produces about 3 gallons of water condensate per day during the summer months. Even in the case that much of the condensate evaporates and is vented out, it's still moisture and after a bit of time, those little wooden holes on the other side of your vent will begin to break down and mildew will form. So, your "tips" are only valid in places with low humidity. Otherwise, YOU MUST HAVE A DRAIN of some sort!

I think the best spot is under the table set in front. On the outside the propane tanks hide it and you can put supports on the tongue.

I'm going to use a 5000 BTU a/c window unit to custom build a rooftop unit. I just need a roll of sheet metal and some tin snips and perhaps some factory made duct work. Maybe I'll buy an old non working roof top unit and take it apart to see how to copy it.

Thanks for the video. Do have one question. I picked up a teardrop made of 1" plywood, doesn't have insulation and fits a small twin bed in it. Will adding a window ac cause moisture to build up inside. I do have 4 windows I can open but texas heat is bad.

How do you keep the AC in place? Is in secured to the platform somehow? I'm installing one myself

I am getting away from the rooftop RV type air conditioner on my travel van and I am currently framing the back window with aluminum that will be adjustable for many different brands of 5000 btu air conditioners. I recently purchased a 5000 btu Frigidaire window unit. The window unit came with multiple warning labels about the flammable refrigerant inside the unit. Are you aware of this? I am going ahead with the build anyway. The EPA has decided that this Freon is better for the ozone layer. Just wondering if it will be safe to travel. Any thoughts would be appreciated.

I have a Scotty and mine sits on the bumper out there back and vented inside under my bed. It short cycles and no one knows why or what that is. I’m struggling to find someone to fix it. Any thoughts?

Crazy question. Has all the window ac moved to this technology or just this name brand? (Drain)

My God, what did you cut that hole with a butter knife?

Do you have a link to that air conditioner?

have a window unit in my actual house, that is beside the back door. It's this kind with no drain hole. When I walk out the back door it is spraying misty water out the sides as the fan turns, and, it often over flows dripping considerable water even though these should not drip. This one is less than 2 months old. So to put one in a cabinet in my camper is giving me pause that it would spray mist, causing mold/mildew/lumber warping, and that it would also over flow and drip water out, causing all that even worse. I'd like to find the old school style that is designed to drain out a hose instead of trust this new kind that in my experience, leaks like a sieve. At a minimum at least I'd want to waterproof the inside of the cabinet and have a pan system in the floor that the unit sat on to catch potential spray and over flow, allowing it to drain properly and not just soak in to the cabinet. I'd be interested in hearing how this one actually held up under heavy summer use regarding the potential of leaking water or creating a mist spray during the hot humid summer we have in Oklahoma.

Did anybody elses mind go straight to Eminem when he said round the outside.

Where are you draining the AC?

Not trying to that guy but isn't putting a ac lower in a space counterproductive to physics. I mean heat rises therfore cold falls. I understand space constraints and all but as far as efficiency goes wouldn't it be much better up higher in a space. I do get that its a extremely small space which brings up another question. The 5000 btu ratting is meant to cool approximately 150 to 200 sq ft so wouldn't this set up put a lot of strain on that unit with the short cycling that will occur due to to size of the camper. Again not trying to bust any balls i do appreciate this content and we all do things our own way. if it works it works plain and simple. it's just seams to me that it would make more sense to size the unit appropriately to the space so as not to stress the component's for much more efficient quality and longevity of the equipment and overall comfort

Does this not create a vacuum in the trailer?

Geez....what did you cut that opening with, a machete ?

Cutting that hole in the side of your camper, good God man, were you drunk? Beyond that, nice idea except I'd never put holes in the floor, too much road kill and rain water to splash in.

I think a portable small air unit would be better then cutting up the camper.

Aw screw it! I'm just going to buy a pint of whiskey and take a nap.