Bruh, this is the second time you have helped me on buying products! Your comparisons are legit and relevant to popular products. Keep this type of content coming!
Have a gallon of Adams in my cart, thank you for providing me with all the information necessary to confirm my purchase. Your effort is very appreciated!
Dude it’s too true! You definitely won a subscriber over since you’re straight to the point with no Bs with cheap jokes. And as a car guy I highly appreciate that!
Yeah, I've seen some of the other detailing channels' videos and there is a lot of dead space and going on tangents. There's often a lot to weed through just to get to what you're looking for and I really try to dodge that with my videos. Thanks a lot for the support!
I use Adam's in my shop can't beat the price and it doesn't stick as bad as most others. The only other Iron remover that I've tried that compares to Adam's is Jay Leno's. Thanks for the video.
Nice vid, I also have two white cars, and I can't rave enough about the Car Pro Iron X, the OG of decon! It just simply works amazingly!! Although it has the decon "stink" it just plain works! Just my opinion, thanks for the upload! Appreciate it! Cheers!
Besides some of their ceramic coatings, Carpro products are laughably, ludicrously, and unfathomably overpriced to the point of being straight up ignorant. In most cases, their products are 100% more expensive than an equivalent that does 100% the same job for, you guessed it, 100% less money.
I went back in forth on these too I’m starting to get into detailing my cars so I just ordered the Iron X only reason is I read some reviews the adams stained the plastic on some cars so that is the only reason I chose iron x
I can say with experience IronX works amazingly compared to the Simonz iron remover. That being said I never tried Adam's so when my bottles empty I might have to switch it up. Thanks.
Good video man thank you . I always use car pro or Gyeon and I knew Adams had come out with a second version of iron remover since the first one was weak. This test looks identical In my eyes. Only thing I could say be careful about is when you sprayed the iron x from the outside fender in and Adams outside fender in , the sprays travel very far so there was a little crossing of product to each side. It’s amazing how far a single spritz will reach outside . Otherwise great test!
To me, it would be a negligible difference. If I sprayed both from outside in, then the difference would cancel out anyways since there would cross-contamination on either side. But at the end of the day, a viewer can take the results however they want. Like I said, this is more so a test for me than anything. Thanks for watching.
Hai Tran no i agree with ya there and the whole reason i watched was for myself also because like you said a gallon of iron x or Gyeon is ridiculous so if the Adams works just as good I’m sold. Otherwise a clay bar will do the job. It’s tough to get perfect test parameters but you made a great comparison video
Agreed. Unless there’s a proper lab environment for testing, there’s going to be some degree of error. People just need to understand the general ideas portrayed and enjoy it for what it is 👍🏽
Been looking at Bilt Hamber Korrosol. Hear that’s better than iron x. Better price. But still. Just pricey. Been looking at this and chemical guys. Don’t see a difference. Review say Adam’s is more runny, but I’m like you. Just an enthusiast, not a pro. So cost just ain’t worth it. Thanks for doing this!
First time watcher and still learning. Nicely done. Any recommendations, when I’m detailing my brand new car in what sequence do I perform the chemical decontamination? Good work
I use wise guy from shine supply it cost $15 for 16oz and react fallout remover 2.0 from carbon collective and you can order it from detail division 500L for $19.00
At $15 for 16oz you are effectively spending $120 per gallon. At $19 for 500ml (you wrote 500L but I assume you mean ml because that would only make sense) you are spending $143.85 per gallon. In either case, you are spending a ridiculous amount for those products in comparison to what is shown in this video. Even Iron X seems economical based on those prices.
Realistically, you can apply an iron remover whenever there's fallout on the paint. Waiting just gives the fallout a chance to damage the paint but I can appreciate that most people only use an iron remover periodically. However, if you don't use a wheel cleaner with an iron remover aspect to it and you don't use a dedicated iron remover on your wheels, cleaning twice a year is allowing a tremendous amount of brake dust to develop. You may clean your wheels but it doesn't mean the iron particles are removed. An iron remover is a very important part of wheel cleaning for those who actually want to clean and protect their wheels considering that iron particles are expelled from the brakes every time it is used. With this in mind you can go through quite a bit of iron remover. But at the end of the day, you do whatever works for you.
Thanks for this post...I'm doing a deep dive on learning what to use/not use. Do you use a claybar/towel/mitt with an iron remover? I tried the Adams(and ran out),it took away some iron but never enough to justify using it by itself. When I was claybar'ing with an iron remover, I used Mequires Iron removing spray($25 at Oreily). It took a 32oz bottle on a full size Dodge Ram. I used a Mothers sythetic claybar block. I'm happy with the Mothers synthetic clay block and its easy to use and hold on to. You drop it, just rinse it off. Thanks!
I don’t clay bar and use an iron remover at the same time considering that you’d have to move pretty quick between all the steps so the iron remover doesn’t dry on the surface while you’re working the clay bar. Just doesn’t seem like you’d give the iron remover enough time to work.
Iron removers are used to strip contaminants but it can definitely effect coatings. That’s why many people use it in their coating torture tests. With the clay bar it would clean the coating if anything since it pulls contaminants out. I can see how it could negatively effect a coating but your coating has to suck pretty bad to start with.
Thank you for comparing the two! Just got my first car and I want to maintain it to the best of my ability. Have any tips for application or how often you recommend removing iron particles?? :) Thanks in advance
As far as tips, I don't have any besides don't let it dry on the car. In terms of how often, I've seen people recommend quarterly or twice a year. I personally do it when I apply a new paint protection coating and do an entire detail then so it's just part of this process. There's no estimate of how often this is, it's just when I feel like.
Iron removal works well if you’re doing some type of paint correction diy or maybe applying a coating protectant, it’s just a simple wax, it really isn’t needed it’s just optional. Iron removal is suggested if you do the coating like ceramic coating or a product that requires a deep cleaning, so a iron removal followed by a clay bar treatment if the paint feels rough, then continue with any correction needed then your coating.
I was sold to get iron pro becaus I've used it before but after watching this vid i will give Adams a chance because its cheaper. What should i used to spread the product on the paint? And is there a way to completely prevent the rail/brak dust from happening? Thank you
You spray the product on, there is no spreading. You can prevent rail dust by parking the vehicle inside and never driving it or getting it near anything that can emit metal particles.
How is the Adams product working for you. Do you notice it harming or discoloring any of the plastic or chrome parts? I have heard that was an advantage of the CarPro IronX - that it is safer on non-paint surfaces. Thanks!
Unless your water has ferrous metal particles in it, I don’t see how that would matter. Water quality more so effects water spotting, not the sort of contaminants that an iron remover deals with.
Clay in its various forms is typically only able to pull fallout that's sitting above the clear coat. Chemical iron removers are supposed to remove everything.
I'm in Canada and it's winter right now. It gets really dirty out here, can I just rinse the dirt off my car at the carwash then spray Adams while wet to dissolve the iron then rinse again?
I suppose so if that’s how you want to approach it. But you’ll just end up having two iron remover products instead of one. But if you think Iron X is really better and worth having around then go for it 👍🏽
I wouldn’t necessarily so say. You can tell that both try to mask the scent but they both smell bad in their own way so I wouldn’t say there’s a winner.
I don’t really care who makes it. If it’s cheap and works then I’m good. Companies aren’t paying me to use their products so it makes no sense to just buy their products because of the name on a label.
What do you about a car like the Hyundai Kona. It has a lot of plastic bits. Will a iron remover damage or prematurely age these parts. There a little to big to tape.
What I think if u have an orange products that turns purple on iron their is obviously a chemical reaction and for a purple product to stay purple on chemical reaction u have not definite way to know if that product is actually working so my money will go to Adams iron remover
Just got a new glc Mercedes 3 months ago, it has ceramic costing and I have the orange dots, I used Adam’s and didn’t come off. Any suggestions? Should they be happening this soon? Car has 3400 miles
A car can get them from the factory or right as they leave. Fallout is everywhere. If it’s bad you may have to try the chemical a few times then hit it with a clay bar. It just depends on the situation.
Realistically, iron removers will degrade paint protection coatings but if it's a good product that's recently been applied, it shouldn't be a problem. It'll take a lot of iron remover applications to strip paint protection coatings completely but again, this just depends on the product used.
It depends on what you're trying to do. If you're just trying to remove the contaminants then no, but know that the iron remover will likely have some negative effect on the previously applied coating anyway. If you're going through the process to apply another coating then you should. There are other situations, but it just depends on what you're trying to accomplish.
In some senses. Clay bar can get what's on the surface but rail dust often embeds itself into the clearcoat, which a clay bar won't be able to pull out. An Iron Remover essentially melts everything.
Nice review. You think this could be used for the inside of truck fenders after the snow season to remove salt contamination? If so, do i just spray and rinse or do i need to claybar the fenders??
These products are used to remove ferrous metals so I don't know how effective they'll be for salt. Also, claybaring the inside of fenders is a next level of care that I've never even considered.
It’ll remove in the sense that it’s a liquid and will help you scrub the tar off. But definitely wasn’t designed for it and probably work as well as plain water.
It depends. Iron Removers definitely reduce paint protection coatings but some coatings are so durable that the iron remover will do little to it. You'll just have to check on the condition of the coating after using the iron remover and go from there.
Definitely do iron remover to dissolve the particulates first, then there'll be much less to clay. If you clay first, you'll have a chance to mar your paint with all those iron particulates.
Hi. I have a 2019 White Tucson with black plastic trim. Are fallout removers safe for black plastic trim? I read some users noticed their black plastic trim discloured and turned a chalky black. (They could have been using the product without following directions and using it in the sun and letting it dry before rinsing)...but wanted others experience with using fallout removers in general on black plastic trim. Also, how often is it safe to use on car? These orange dots on my white vehicle driving me crazy, my 1st and last white vehicle 😔
I personally do not worry about the plastic trim. Streaking really only occurs when the iron remover dries on the trim. If you wash it off in time, there shouldn’t be any problems. I often work in direct sunlight and the only real solution is to work fast. At the end of the day and if you’re really worried about it, you can tape up the black trim or just try to dodge them. As far as how often can they be used, I think the general consensus is to use them quarterly or every 6 months but they likely can be used every wash if you want. The reason why you wouldn’t want to use them all the time is because of cost and because they are strong enough to remove/degrade a paint protection coating. So unless you have money to blow and don’t mind applying paint protection all the time, I would spread the use of iron removers out. In terms of vehicle colors, white is always at the top of the list for me. I’ll gladly take some minor orange specks that can’t be seen unless you’re looking inches away from the vehicle than water spots, scratches, etc. with other colors. White has many benefits and for me, rail dust is the only real cost.
@@HaiTran appreciate the quick and detailed reply 😊 so i take it if i use a fallout remover as directed (avoid sunlight, apply on cool surface and do not let dry on surface) i should not have any issue with black plastic trim discolouration?
In theory and from my experience, yes. I would still advise you to test for yourself on a small and inconspicuous area. Personal experience is going to be better than what someone on the internet says 👍🏽
