One lazy man to another thanks for posting this. I've dreaded doing flags because I didn't want to hand scribe the stars. Subbed for the great tip. Thanks again!
Thanks for the video! I'm getting ready to build a concealed weapon flag with a RFID card opener for my AR-15 and Glock pistol. This is always the one thing I don't look forward to do lol, but I think this idea will help out for sure. Definitely will try it, thanks again!
I like the smoothness and simplicity of this method that you shown us. I’m going to try this on my own as well. Thank you for the detail information that you added with the visual finish.
Great video. I'm one who would always traced then removed stincel. Always thought the bid would burn it. I use a router base for my 3000 with a fan blade attached above the bit. Keep the tips coming. I will definitely be doing it like this for now on.
Awesome video!!! Ive been using the dremel stylo with the dust fan and 106.. dont get me wrong it works and works great. Just time consuming but after watching this method i went out and got your setup cause i want to do more of the router method than freehand
Great video, just starting on some flags and was trying to come up with way for the stars other than freehanded 48 and missing up the 49th. Will be heading to the big box hardware store tomorrow. Thank again for fixing my head ack before it started.
I did my first wavy flag and I put off doing the stars because I knew it was going to be a pain and I was right! I took my Dremel Stylo and put in a 105 bit and even with cheaters on I couldn't really see when the tiny tip was going to hit the wood, fortunately they came out great but it took me almost 2 hours to do a 1776 with the 13 stars. The flag came out amazing and already sold it but what a process! Too bad Dremel doesnt have a router attachment thats only about 3/4" round so it could follow the curves.
Glad to hear it. I have yet to try a wavy flag, so scared to go through the work and then screw up one star! You just made me think...look at the Dremel router base...what would happen if you cut the wide piece off and just used the two-sided center portion as the base/stop? Just a thought.
@@danob653 I just bought a Dremel 4300 kit and tried your way with a 107? bit but if tore up my stencil so I put in a 105 bit and got it to just past the stencil and it was easier but left a lot of rounded edges but I need some practice with it I guess. I usually use my Dremel Stylo with a 105 bit and free hand it just fine but always looking to speed things up if I can. That flag was completed today and have about 8 hours into it so yeah it's a time sucker.
Check out the video I made for setting the depth! You'll also want to see the pinned comment. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-NeFzNH1ccMg.html&ab_channel=WoodworkingTipswithDan
You did a great job of carving the stars, I sprayed mine which didn’t come out so good. I do have the plastic and the medal stencils… I might try the medal next and see how it comes out.
I’ve been looking at ways of making the wavy flag and came accross your video about doing the stars. Thanks for taking the time to make the video and show us a way to do it. I have the same dremel with that base and the extension. I made asian character wall plaques and it was very tedious and time consuming. While watching your video I thought, if someone had the time or wanted to make many flags, why not make a jig to cut out most of the star with the dremel with regular cutter like a router template, THEN to get the corners of the stars sharp, use a chisel to get the corners on a line from one point to the other and so on. Thanks again for your video!
Just starting into flags and was really concerned about using the plastic stencil with the dremel . You relieved my concern over that so, THANKS! Because I was worried about using the plastic stencil , I bought the metal set from Amazon, 3 sizes for $50. I also plan on making wavy flags too so the metal won’t work as well as the plastic I’m sure. I’ve been woodworking for many years but flags are going to be my new signature project I hope . Really liked your video.
I run a metal fab shop in FLA and I have several different Union patterns I cut on my laser out of .125 or .063 aluminum and use the dremel router attachment in this same way for about a year now. Definitely makes it quicker and easier to carve stars.
@@bmac6721 a friend of mine made it. I have 2 different sizes. They are the best!! I've had him make a couple for others and mile them to them if your interested?
They are listed in the description. Bit is the 106 and the depth limiter/tile cut assembly is also listed. There is a link to the stencil I used as well.
Great video, I was looking for a way of doing this uniformly. I didn't want to just put stickered stars on mine. Just a little nitpicking; but as you go along making more videos, try to catch yourself when you pause between thoughts/sentences with "um". I'm one of those (character flaw of mine, I'm sure) that starts to focus on that, as the video goes on. If you watch other Maker's Videos; they all start out a bit rough, but learn as they go. I'm sure you'll improve with time! Again; thanks for the great tips! I have a Dremel setup like yours, and I never thought of using it this way.
Thank you for posting!! It might of been your first video but it was great. You showed what was the easiest and honestly the best way to do this. I e tried other ways that I’ve seen and this way is the best! Thank you.
The reference to the Bill Gates quote was actually from the true life story of the efficiancy expert Frank Bunker Gilbreth. His story inspired the book Cheaper by the Dozen.
I started using vinyl stickers made on my cricut machine, you can print any size union of all the stars.. very east, no carving and look great.. all I do is once I finish painting or staining the union, I put one coat of polyurethane spray.. I use clear gloss.. and vinyl sticks easily to it… then polyurethane 3-4 coats sanding in between.. so much easier than grinding with a dremil
Kind of the same concept but I used a chisel and actually notched the edges of the stars and popped them out like that but you just have to be careful..lol
The edges actually do have a decent edge with the just the Dremel. If you go a hair shallower (I went a tiny bit too deep on this one) it will look the best.
Yes. I use it after I burn the wood. It removes the top layer and comes out nice and clear and smooth so it avoids the lines you get from the dremel and it’s easier to Control the depth
I like the idea, it doesn't make you lazy, just innovative. I make many of these flags, made 2 of them today but, I cut out the stars by hand with my Dremel wand. I like your idea but, I noticed in the close up that it damages the stencil, the star is now out of shape. Do you use a new stencil for each flag or just accept the slight damage as part of the destressed concept? I have several stencils, I think I may try this because it takes me almost 2 hours to do the stars my way.....Uuuuugh!
Can you give any detail on how you set up the depth of your bit to get the cut just below the template but also not cut the template itself? That's what I am concerned about.
Sorry it took so long to reply. I just eyeball it and then test on a scrap before I start. It's a little tricky to get it just right, as the Dremel doesn't have a real adjustment screw, you have to wiggle it to the point you need it.
Thanks for the great video Dan. I just received all the accessories so I thought I'd give this a shot. I set the ball of the bit just below the surface of the template and tested using the small template on both pine and ply. The bit does one of two things, either it hangs up on the wood and I can't move it or if I do get it to move it cuts beyond the star and into the plastic. I occasionally smell the wood burning. Any clue whatI could be doing wrong?
Are you sure you got the correct bit? If you are just below the surface of the plastic it should guide it fine. If it is too deep, it will hang because the bit cant travel farther than the shaft on the thin surface of the wood that's left. Make sure your speed is high on the dremel and don't use alot of force - let the dremel do the work. Hope this helps. Good luck! (in the video, I feel I was just a hair to deep, as you can see a bit of curling on the surface)
@@danob653 Thanks again Dan. The bit is a #106 and my Dremel is only one speed. Since there's several of us having this issue is there a chance you could make a supplemental video that only shows you setting up the Dremel from scratch? I really want to make this work as it'll definitely speed up the process.
Cool idea. Need to update my Dremel to a model that accommodates the cutting base. Do you run into any problems with the cord getting in your way? Seems like a cordless model would be more convenient but batteries don’t appear to last long based on some review.
No issues at all with the cord. I do have a cordless one (Dremel Micro) that I use for my dog's nails (got it because it was a bit quieter and didn't spook her as much), but I've noticed the cordless tends to bog easier and doesn't have the horsepower in my opinion. If it meets too much resistance, it dies and you have to turn it on again which can be a pain no matter what you're doing, and as the battery depletes, it happens more frequently. The model I have also will not accommodate the router base the corded one will. But if you have one that does, give it a shot and let us all know how it works.
I've made some of lags out of barn wood but I cut the stars out and hit glue them on. I have bought some stencils and will try your method, just wondering if you've tried it on a wavy flag with the stencil?
I wanna know what stain people are using that doesn’t bleed deep into the wood. Because that’s been my problem. Seems no matter how deep I dremel down into the wood some spots have a blue tint.
You have to do it by eye. Use a piece of scrap, and the ball end of the bit will be just below the stencil. In this video, I set it a hair too deep to start and had to go back and clean up a little afterwards.
I would like to try something like this....but pour pearl resin in the stars. what would be the steps to do this? The resin will have to be sanded or planed out flat. Is this the point in which the stain will be brushed on?
I've thought about that. They have adhesive sheets that you can overlay on the union. You would have to cut through that and the wood using the Dremel and stencil. I've seen it done very cleanly on a CNC, never seen it by hand but it should be almost the same. If so, you have a clean way to paint/fill with resin and not bleed onto the blue in the union. That's all I can think of as a decent option.
When ever I've faulted a star it becomes California, and I don't mind the slow process I play star spangled banner with ever flag, I've listened to many patriotic tunes repeatedly, I'll sing along, I'll take breaks etc...I've never sold online, usually word of mouth, 4 yrs running, with a full time job it takes 2 weeks to do 2 large flat flags, or one wavey version.
How much do you sell these for? Is it cost effective putting in a total of 1-1.5 hours per flag? Great method, just wondering if it's worthwhile pursuing these as a project to sell or just for personal use/gifts.
I was able to get between $100-$150 per flag. Honestly I was looking at it for a project to sell, but the hype kind of died out, at least where I am at, and competitors were undercutting by simple painting and gluing craft store stars on a flag, and I refuse to do that...just think it's tacky looking. If I put my name on it, I want it to have some quality.