What about the timing marks? Did you align them before you removed the pump? I realize if you don't move the motor that technically you can put it back the way it was but after disassembly that might be easier said than done. I'm getting ready to do my first Roosa-Master on a Case 4 cylinder. And I"m not pulling the pump off until I get the timing marks lined up. The problem is I don't know how to yet rotate the motor except to bump the motor with the starter key. Which turns the motor too fast to catch the timing mark. I hope there's a crank nut I can grab with a socket. It's a Case 580 CK, 1966-71 version. Getting it for a really good price if I can get it running. And I'm definitely not getting any fuel through the pump. Even with the lines cracked. For starters I drained the fuel system and it had at least 2 gallons of water in it so that also makes me think the pump is presently challenged.
You shouldn't have to worry about lining the timing marks on the engine because you're not going to pull out the gear. At the end of my video I explain how the pump will be timed back with the engine. The shaft has a flat with a dot on one side. Inside the pump there is a dot on one side. If you need to rotate the pump to align the dots you can use a large flat head screwdriver. It's very simple to do. About the water in the fuel. I hope that it didn't rust anything in the pump. Apple cider vinegar will take the rust off the steel but it will also eat metal so you can't leave it in there very long and never put aluminum in it. Probably the best thing would be steel wool and automatic transmission fluid
@@bradbarnes2046 so if i don't remove the drive gear from the engine that goes to the pump i don't need to time the engine before removal?? makes sense but don't wanna mess up!!
I got a case 431 diesel tractor that has similar layout like your tractor in the video. I took the gas tank off, remove both of the fuel filters, removed the pump (i didn't tear it apart), removed high pressure lines, removed all the injectors and other parts. I cleaned and painted the whole front end of the tractor. I got everything put back and not i can't get it running. I got all the air out of the filter. Fuel is going to pump but fuel is not getting to injectors. When torn your pump apart and reassembled, how did you get your tractor going again? Any helps would be appreciated.
You have to bleed the fuel lines to the injectors. If you are not getting fuel still make sure that the fuel off or the engine shut off valve is correctly installed. That is easily checked by pulling the engine shut off cable. Hopefully that helps let me know if not
I followed your instructions and got it started. Thanks. It's running rough at the moment. How would I know if all 4 cylinders are running? I think i need to rotate pump like what you do on an older car to advance or retard it. What do you think. The choke lever is hitting against the exhaust manifold. Before i could pull choke and kill the motor but i can't now. Also before, i have tried to turn off the motor using the key but it wouldn't. That's why I used the choke to kill it. Today messing with the choke didn't shut itc off. I was able to turn the motor by up the air intake.
I’m glad to hear that you got it running. When the engine is running smoothly it is running on all cylinders. The Diesel engine doesn’t have a choke. The leaver on the side of the pump that you are pulling is the fuel shut off valve. The key will not turn off the older tractors. You should be able to rotate the leaver to clear the exhaust manifold or you could rotate the pump but I would try to realign it to where it was before
I watched a couple videos. I reinstalled the lever up instead of down like where it supposed to be. I should have checked it before mounting the pump back. I don't want to take the pump off. I hope removing the exhaust manifold and injector lines, i have enough room to flip the lever downwards. I'm learning. This is my first diesel equipment I have ever owned. Thanks for your help.
It's the seals on the shaft. If you don't have them on correctly or when putting the pump back on make sure that you don't mess them up. You may need to get a small flat head screwdriver or something small to help get the seal into the pump. Go slow making sure that the seal are going in correctly and I suggest a generous amount of oil to help slide the pump back on. If you have never taken the pump off I would say that the seals have just went bad. They should look something like this )-( with the tops facing the opposite directions. Hope this helps
Cody Hurd I’m sorry but I did not make a rebuild video like I was going to. But the pump is really easy to take apart. I took pictures of everything as I was taking it apart. I will say this be sure to keep the pump ring at the end going the same way. If you mess up and flip it the wrong way the tractor will never start back. An easy way to tell if you need to flip the ring around is the pump will never suck in fuel. But like I said it was extremely easy to take apart and put back together just long as you take pictures as you take it apart. This was the first one I’ve ever done and I was surprised how easy it was.
Cody Hurd watch this video ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-MpsJma1nvGg.html. I found this the best video to show what you will see inside the pump
Kinda hacky but if you remove the ball they will run for a long time, as far as I know it causes no real issue. The ball maintains body pressure in the pump. That being said I've seen some with ball removed run for years no issues
question. i got similar unit 580k i start up cold ok but if i turn off with .engine warm . i can start up ok in under 10 seconds if i wait longer it wont start but if i open hood and open water seperator valve and bleed off pressure it will start up again . are the fuel lines between filter and pump suppose to hold line pressure of does it bleed back into the return line . i tried to open return line from top plate of injector pump and its dry even running theres a mention of a check ball getting stuck there . but i'm not a pump pro . is there any return fuel that trickles back to tank under engine running mine seem dry as a bone sucks when you want to stop for a few minuts and go back and it wont start untill you propp up the hood and bleed out the a few drop of feul to even the pressure out in line
Just curious is there pressure building up in your fuel tank. There should be a way for the tank to vent if it is building pressure. If it's not that there is a fuel line that comes off the top of the pump that goes back to the tank. I need to blow that out but also you're blowing the trash back into the tank so you might have to clean the tank out or hope that it gets caught by the fuel filters. Let me know if that helps you
