To put the rotor back in i have found that it will go up the tube quite easily if all the grates are in and at the same level . I take the cover at the back of the rotor above where the splined shaft for the gearbox is and put a chain on the kickout bar to pull and lift the rear of the rotor as it is going in and to lift the back end to get it on the splines .
Also dont forget on that front rotor bearing it has that piece of metal that cleans around the bearing that broke off on mine and caused bearing failures more often.
Forget spending so much on those newer combines you were looking at and get a nice 1996 or newer R62. Rotor cages on those are heavier than case and if you need to pull the rotor it's real easy to do. There are a lot of other things heavier on the Gleaner than the other colors too of that era. Frame, augers, sprockets in key areas are chrome alloy along with the rasp bars and rotor vanes. You can just harvest more grain before the expensive stuff starts going. There can be some easy cheap improvements made to an R62 that really increases capacity too.
If you leave the header on the feeder house you can remove all of it by just using one jack on the big bar at the bottom of the feeder house ( where the floor jack is in the vid ). Then just back the combine away then tie up the cylinders and you are off to the races . Let the cylinders slide on a piece of plywood when hooking back up .
All too familiar here! We welded ours up the hard way, don't have the help to pull the rotor. Will need to soon any way as some of those spiral vanes need attention.
Hi dirt grain and steel, I was wondering how you got the plate off the bearing housing first? I’ve got my rotor pulled and I left the cross member on to remove it. The three bolts would spin and I couldn’t get the nuts off but wondered if I should put the new on installed when I put the rotor back in. Thank you very much for the video has really helped me.
Any advice for buying used 1660-1680? What to watch for, what would be most common stuff to wear off and expensive to fix? I live in south-east Europe and there is not so many of them here, not popular, but I like them, they look much simpler build then Claas and John deere equivalent combines.
Do you can still mount your GoPro inside the feederhouse and in where the rotor and concaves and chaffer and sieves and chopper and spreaders are and on top of the grain tank and on the unloading auger on the 1660 to get some video of all of that stuff in action before you guys are done with harvest? And on the corn head and soybean head of the 1660?
I tried my hardest to get you all them shots but I failed I made some attempts I need to make some different camera mounts and boxes and lights for cameras I am sorry I didn't get the videos you wanted I simply ran out of time we finshed harvest today but next season I will definitely get it figured out and get you them videos
I really really love your videos so very much and i have every single one of your videos and all of your videos are just such great videos and I was wanting to know if you could start doing so more farming simulator 19 videos when you get time?
Have you got it figured out yet how your going to get some GoPro shots of all of that stuff inside of the feederhouse and the combine? And have you tried getting the GoPro shots of all of that stuff inside of the feederhouse and the combine yet?
I was wanting to know if you could try mounting your camera inside the feederhouse, in where the rotor and concaves and chaffer and sieves and chopper and spreaders and tailings elevator and both clean grain elevators are on the 1660 and on the corn head and soybean and on the auger of the 1660 to get some video of all of that stuff in action?
The hub is tapered so shove the rotor in and hold it up in the back with a bar or something and gently push will rocking the drive pulley so the splines find there place you will have to get pretty wild before breaking something just take your time and it will go
I was also wanting to know if you could take and send me some pictures of the feederhouse chain and drum, the rotor and concaves, the chaffer and sieves, the spreaders and chopper, the tailings elevator and both clean grain elevators, the inside of the grain tank on the 1660? And the inside and outside of the 1660 with both the corn head and soybean head hooked up to it as well? And if you could send the pictures to me either here in the comments or on Facebook, Snapchat, Instagram or any social media that you have? And what social media do you have that you could send the pictures to me on or can you just send them to me here in the comments?
Just curious, did you guys weld the cage back together or replace it? If you welded, how did it last? If you replaced it, how do you reach all the bolts on the elevator side of the machine? Tomorrow I'm going to be doing some welding on my cage. Wondering if that will be temporary or if it will last. If it's temporary, I'm just trying to figure out how to reach all the bolts. My guess is remove left cage first, climb inside the rotor area to reach all the bolts for the right side. Thanks for any suggestions.
We welded ours up and it has been just fine I have no plans on replacing any of it I think the only to get to them bolts is to pull the rotor and remove the key stock grates and concaves if you have to then crawl in there but if you can get to it to weld it just welder up and be done with it
@@dirtgrainsteel Thanks, I spent yesterday welding up the left side of the cage. Next weekend it will be the right hand side of the cage that gets welded. I hate to toot my own horn, but I was very happy with how the weld job turned out. I was able to weld the left side from outside the machine. I'm hoping I can reach the right side from outside too. Rotor is still in it.
I'm amazed...how to remove a rotor on a 1660...without taking it to IH/CASE dealer shop. Wonder what the shop total hour rate repair bill would have been?
He is my brother in law and his nickname is Dad Strength he got that name after him and my sister had their daughter Clara we swear having a child made him a even bigger brute than he was before if you got a bolt you can't break loose you hand the wrench to him lol
Why didn’t you change the rotor out for a specialty rotor or an AFX rotor. Lots of them in the junk yards. Extra capacity and fuel savings would pay for it. It would make it more like a 1688
@@dirtgrainsteel I have a 1482 pull type that we used to use on oats. It works great under hot dry conditions but destroys the straw. Under damp or tougher conditions it just takes so much power that I wish it had the afx rotor but it’s a $1500 combine can’t justify swapping it out
@@joeldurheim5831 now back in the day I use to run a 1688 on my Unculs farm it had the specialty rotor in it and between it and the 1680 with a regular rotor I could never really tell a difference we tried to cut wheat with it and it destroyed the straw now I do know that if you change the crop flow bars that will keep them from destroying straw we dont do any small grains with straw we did 2 years of wheat but that was before I had my L2 Gleaner and we ran it through my friends 9400 Deere and a neighbor bailed it all and bought it rite out of the field but that was the last time we ever had wheat
@@dirtgrainsteel we still have some around ND not many being used. I paid $1500 for this one, always shedded and still has the original chains on it painted red!
Instead of fighting those big bolts/nuts holding the beater to the combine why not use pins like the ones holding the feederhouse on? Much faster to pop out.
paul e well I think they intended the bolts to be there to squeeze the beater tight to the front of the combine for strength reasons and to prevent it from wiggling around a lot happens in there..... every one of theses combines I’ve ever worked on has had this same set up so I’ve just left it alone it’s not often we take off anyways and with the Milwaukee impact it was no problem to buzz them out.....have you ever seen one with all pins?
