Casting Jewelry with Maker Juice Labs WaxCast Resin and the Elegoo Mars 3D Printer 

I used to work in a bronze foundry where we worked on everything from jewelry to monuments spanning 100 feet. I have only two suggestions. One, we burned out molds at 1650 degrees Fahrenheit, so raising your burnout temps to that, if your kiln allows, should evacuate all ash, then just use an air compressor to blow out any residues and inclusions from the investment. Two, the way you melt the silver could lead to uneven distribution of heat and therefor some of the melted silver may be more solid than liquid, so build a small furnace with a lid, plus use a little borax as flux to aggregate and remove any heat-resistant impurities such as carbon-heavy slag. Hope that helps.

It seems that the bail came out with significant defects because of a slow pour. Molten silver and gold solidify less than a second after they leave the crucible. Considering how deep the bail was (plus the narrow flow space of the bail itself) must have been a factor. Excellent video!

great results! Thank you.

In my experience (goldsmith 25+ yrs) centrifugal casting is far better than vacuum for small to medium volume work. Fills finer detail much better. I'm just transitioning from traditional wax carving / fabrication to CAD-based, and your video is very informative. Thanks!

Excellente vídeo estupendo resultado mil gracias amigo 😊

Nice video. Thanks for sharing!

From what i have seen its that you can fill up your 3D printed pieces, and indeed can sandpaper the pieces to get a smooth finish. Tweaking the settings can help create better print quality. Good luck! Thanks for uploading! Greetings, Jeff

Great job

Amazing

It would be cool to see you model the decorative bail already looped on to the main piece. It might would cause some headaches in the clean up process but fun to try.

Would like to see more forging,blacksmithing vids plz...thank u

One more thing that may help with that turbulence is placing your model closer to the table side of flask so the air pressure can escape as it floods. I use 1/4" as a rule of thumb but i don't use a vac table..

Like how you add sprues to the models and sculpted it

To save a few dollars on a consumable part I've found that a piece of saturated cardboard (not corrugated) works well in lieu of a silicone mat on the vacuum table to seal the hot flask. Even though it's free, I can actually use the same piece of cardboard six or eight times. I have gone through a couple of bottles each of Anycubic castable and Phorezen green castable, first on a Mars and now a Mars 2 Pro. For both resins after getting comfortable with them, I hit a problem of them not being available in the US. I'm currently working on a liter of Resinworks violet. The cost is mid-range and a bit more than the other two. I had some problems with printing it before getting the settings right but I think I'm going to be pretty happy with it. It prints beautifully with a lot of detail. It seems to have less ash than the others and burns out at a lower temperature. I suspect the higher burn out temperature of the other resins may have been damaging some of the details in the mold during burn out. In my opinion, cost should be a secondary consideration on picking a resin. What's more important is finding one that prints and casts well and won't drop off the market in six months after you have gotten familiar with it. I'm making engineering model parts that have exterior dimensions as large as a 3 inch cube. Even at that size the resin probably costs less than a cup of designer coffee and less than the investment powder. It's easy to spend at least 1-2 hours cleaning, adding sprues, investing, and casting a model. Saving a couple of dollars on a resin on that doesn't print or cast well is a waste of my time. VOG in the UK is having success with a new resin that isn't yet on the market. It looks and seems to perform similar to the Resinworks resin and he believes it will be available in the U.S.

0:40 before my adventure with casting jewellery, i am study a lot of movies on RU-vid. I've notice that a lot of people use some "sticky wax" to overcome this stick problem :)

Perfect 👏👏👏💍

Wash the piece after curing, some resins leak oils in the curing process witch does not let wax to adhere to it, if you wash it after curing you get rid of the oils and wax will stick much better.

thankyou

Great work, about casting its good but you must wait more to more mold and great temperature for silver ، After melting the silver well, you should pour the silver quickly and not slowly, because the silver cools quickly once the flame is removed, and thirdly, after you finish printing the design, you must design a silicone mold to pour wax in it because the wax melts quickly and does not remain in the plaster. As for resin, it is a hard material and it is It is possible that the remnants of the packages are stuck, which is the reason I think to get a perfect design, and I wish you success

like ur videos ,, keep going

Product called Sticky wax is good between wax and resin. Saw that on another RU-vid channel. Hope that helps.

Whats your investment? Did you add borax/boric acid to the metal for flux? How long was your bench time before you went into the oven? Also a tip i swear by with solid flasks: add sprues around the wall of the flask. Allows vacuum to “pull” deeper up into the mold I was having firescale/flashing/imperfections for the longest time. I added a kiln thermocouple to my oven to read the temps alongside what the display said and found i had alot of deviation. I follow what the kiln TC says. That eliminated a ton of issues I swear by bluecast x5 Your supports may have pulled off due to fep tension being loose. These newer machines dont allow for adjustment. Look into NFEP Did you vac boil your investment before and after your pour of the mold? Metal temps - sterling i end my cycle with the flask at 537c and my metal at 895c pretty good casting man.

Use boric acid in you investment. It will strengthen the investment. Also pour your silver as quickly as possible. Make sure your vacuum has reach near max before pouring your silver.

Hi, can you advice me on a kiln question. My power supply in Singapore is 220v so the US made kiln would not work and using a transformer is out of the equation. Is there a another way to melt the wax away without this kiln?

anyone know the settings needed for the applylabworks MSLA resin with an elegoo mars 2 pro?

Once you printed them in the Wax/Resin, did you feel that they were still workable? Like, could one make changes if necessary with a flex shaft or a file or is the material not at all like real wax? Thanks for your time :}

Nice! So, can I ask why did you put the pendant in a plastic cup inside the ultrasonic cleaner since you had a basket...? Is that to cut down on the amount of solution that gets used...?

Beautiful, I'm currently contemplating getting a 3D printer. Does it increase production time? is it good value for money? What's quality like compared to hand made?

Never seen this resin, actually just started playing with a 3d printer for the first time and realized i can burnout pla and just print my models..any reason you don't just go that route?

Did you try Bluecast or Phrozen castable resin, and what do u think about new 3d printer like Phrozen sonic mini 4k?

Looks like you need some centrifugal force, you should play with a centrifugal caster, i wouldn't go any other way! Also that investment is made with silica brother, when you quench you're being gassed with it,careful! Tight video!

how many minutes does this little flash burn

Might want to check your setting brother

What tools did you use to file, grind, clean up, and polish didnt see them in the description.

What's the name of the software the that you are using to design you own models if you don't mind me asking been trying to find the best one not to sure what to use 🤔

Very Interesting !! What software are you using to create that ?

hey just wondering how many wax pendants (let's say the same model) can that flask get?

Put ‘sticky wax’ on your resin piece first then melt your sprue to that. 👍😊

Nice video! What is the temperature of your investment when you pour? Thanks!

what kind of vacuum table did you use

What is your casting temperature?

The temperature of cylinder is to low....When i cast Gold i make the temperature from my furnace on 690° and for non precious alloy to 850°... The casting will be very clean and after sand blasting with glass balls the result is simply perfect... ;)

Great video! What's the liquid at 9:30? Thanks

What type of software did you use?

What slicer are you using

It is fantastic but the question is does it worth, financially, all that tedious work, or it’s just a hobby

The Makerjuice WaxCast resin is complete garbage. I posted about it in your last video, if anyone else is thinking of buying it, don't it's terrible.

how much u charge to 3d design a drawing i have

Hi, why not keep the supports added from the slicer? Just use the parts as it comes from the 3d printer without remove the support. The channels are perfect for the air flow/escape - aren't they?

Price

Tutorial on how to clean a T-Mobile phone

Resin casting is not good. The surface is full of imperfections. The best resin is ENVISIONTEC.

Maker juice has completely disappeared.. :(