Jeff, I wanna start by saying that I love your enthusiasm. I have watched all your videos and there is soooooo much wrong with them all. From a professional perspective I can tell you were just flying by the seat of your pants in your earlier videos and in your newer videos you have picked up some knowledge, but I fear only enough to B.S your way through a job. This job should've only taken 1 day. Loose the bobcat and rent a mini excavator (you will make the money back in no time if you rent it for the week or month if you have the money and work lined up to afford it) it is so much more versatile. Always wet cut(it gives you the longest life out of each blade(they arent cheap). And if you dont have water on site a five gallon jug and a 2 gallon water sprayer go a long way. For the catch basin repair, the basin or box itself should have been re-faced with mortar or a Portland cement mix (mud). The risers should have been mudded together as well. By not using mud the catch basin will continue to leak and deteriorate and a sink hole will form. As for the Asphalt patch itself, you didnt use tack and the seam or "joint' will separate at a more rapid pace. The base material used was fine but when adding it in stages it is called lifts not layers (same for multiple layers of asphalt). Use the lute for packing in your edges not the shovel, it will give you a more uniform joint and will keep the edges from unraveling. When compacting or tamping, you should always do what is called a "pinch". Run the plate tamp around the perimeter of your patch 2-5 inches depending on the size of your patch (smaller patch, smaller pinch...larger patch, larger pinch). This ensures your edges are firmly compacted and in conjunction with the tack gives you a tight joint and you minimize any mushrooming (excess asphalt squeezing over and outside your perimeter joint). I also recommend using a roller on a patch bigger than an 8'×8' if possible. Also on patches that involve keeping proper water flow you need to use a string line to ensure proper "fall". Not trying to come off as knocking your work...just want you to succeed and continue to build your knowledge in this industry. I would love to give you some advice and pointers and would gladly answer any questions if you care to message back. I can also give you some advice in sealing and line striping.
+David Steinfield thanks for watching the videos i appreciate all the input and comments it helps me do a better job! Definately in my earlier videos i was a bit more camera shy and needed some more experience. Your right this job normally would take us 1 day however we were doing multi jobs everyday and had to jump around a lot. The mini excavators are amazing i have a video of that up as well. We normally use them when we are trenching on a roadway or for our waterproofing jobs. Tack coat "ss1" is excellent we do use that a lot i havent filmed any videos of that yet but i will be filming them and using that. The same thing woth our roller i dont have any videos of our roller but i will shortly. We have been so busy we have only filmed a small percentage of our work. Ive got some new videos coming up soon.
No tack in all his videos, and his edges pop up about half an inch. Poor use of equipment the asphalt looks cold and no lute rake. Your asphalt removal must include removing base down to 1" below existing, and a jumping jack not a steel plate is recommended when doing lifts. Awsome feed back David Steinfeild.
Nice job Jeff everyone in the comments giving you hate acting like it’s rocket science to fix this I’ve patched plenty of holes with and without ss1 it doesn’t make much if any difference good job
Thanks! I appreciate it. Yeah that is true my jobs that I haven't used ss1 have lasted very long and still no issues. Just to show people that I do use ss1 I have used it in some of my newer videos on my new Do It All Sealing channel: ru-vid.com/show-UCE4x9dzt-NuHwlEDuAdC2kQ
We sometimes use ss1 glue on the sides around the patch depending ding on how the client wants the repair done and budget. We did rubberize the patch after with our crack sealant.
Why no tack for the old HMAC pavement? also did you sand seal? I Didnt see that in the video, that will help ensure that water will stay out and not get into you base-agg and subgrade. I agree you need to get a walk behind saw to be more productive.. Great job though, nicest asphalt in the parking lot. It really is hard to polish a turd. Have a good day. I was using your video as a teaching tool BTW. Thanks
You're hired! :) This was one of my older videos I remember when I did this job I was stacking it with a few others jobs the same day. That's normally what I've been doing lately doing all my excavations in 1 day with prep. Installing the asphalt on multiple jobs another day. I guess whatever works and how fast you have to complete it with the client! Thanks for watching!
Jeff you made four critical errors when you did this job . 1 you need to use a walk behind road saw with a 18” or 24” diamond blade that’s water cooled . Error 2 you didn’t use hearing protection prolonged use of saws with no hearing protection will cause hearing issues . 3 you didn’t use a hot glue which really should have been done to bond better and the use of a paving machine would have made a much faster and more professional job and that compactor is a joke for that big of a job you could rent a asphalt roller which is meant for jobs that size .
My newer videos this upcoming season I'm going to be showing all of those components. I do have a walk behind saw you can see in my other videos but it all depends which trailer I have with me for the day. Larger jobs I precut everything before excavation. Absolutely hearing protection is a must long term damage! SS1 glue I do have with me I will also show that in the new videos going up on my new channel. Same thing with my tier I haven't done any videos with my roller which I will. Good observations and it only makes me improve my video content for everyone. Thanks for taking the time to watch my videos I appreciate! stay tuned for more videos I'm doing.
Yes you can use a cement compound to bond them together. Most of the paving companies here don't do that and just stack the rings on top. I will do a video soon on my new channel and show the use of cement on the rings soon.
@@JeffLepard Not "you can", you "should" use mortar to bond the rings. Would you marry plumbing pipes in your home behind walls without pipe dope/tape, cement or sweating copper and expect them to stay water tight and not cause problems? If most companies there don't mud the rings then they're just hacks that are creating an opportunity for money making in the near future. Dry stacking will only let water and eventually base material through, causing sinkholes and problems. I know this because I fix them regularly, previous work done by said lazy hacks....
