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I was considering installing a catch can on my vehicle. The timing of the video couldn't be better. A well made and researched video with excellent discussion and educated opinion. Many thanks.
My GDI Engine equipped with a catch-can with a lot of steel wool inside catches a lot. I then take the output from the catch can and run this into a Spin-on remote mount oil filter adapter and run it through a standard spin-on oil filter so that the cellulose paper filtering material further dries the PCV and removed 99.99% of the vapour between the two and then I run it back into the engine. 200K and 0 build-up on the valves. I empty the catch can a few times between oil changes and I change the oil filter on the spin-on oil filter at every oil change. The media inside the oil filter is damp but not soaked so it's absolutely a second step that is needed before routing the PCV back into the engine. It's important to use a cellulose paper style conventional spin-on filter that doesn't have synthetic media. The synthetic media will not absorb the oily moisture and will let it pass through unlike the Cellulose paper standard type filters. Like your crappy orange can Fram filters for example is what you would want to use and not the Fram Ultra.
I bought the J&L. I also bought the evil one and returned. The reason I kept the J&L is that they came with right sized hose and fitting. It catches 3 oz of oil out of 3000 miles. I’d rather to have 3oz less to intake
Living in Vermont, I knew I will be dealing with lots of moisture condensations in the winter months (latte anyone?). J&L sells catch can extensions which double the can's capacity, which helps immensely in not having to worry about the can overflowing quickly. However, I still wish the can is see through so you don't have to unscrew everytime to check.
Get the PQY, rip out the insides, install a stainless steel pot scrubber pad instead. Now the inlet and outlet don't matter. Place it just above the catalyst as a heat source or you will trap mostly water. The increase in surface area provided by the pot scrubber pad is the key. Drain at every oil change.
I have two 1.5l ecoboost cars and two 2.7l ecoboost cars. I run J&L catch cans on all of them. Empty them every 2 weeks during winter months. They get full quickly in my cold winter climate.
I have the Evil Energy can on my 2016 Canyon 2.8. Duramax. I increased the fitting size to use larger hoses. I empty the can at oil changes, it collects about 1/4 inch of oil in that time. The outlet hose is clean from oil residue now.
Glad you shared that info on the diesel cans. Those guys know what they are doing 10x as well as a tuner kid who installed a catch can on their inherited base model pos
I blew out a rear main seal on 2012 equinox due to pcv sensor cloggin up in the intake caused by excessive blow-by, i would highly recommend anyone install a catch on any ecotech engine that burns oil, which is 90% of them 😅 to avoid this costly reparation. Either that or removing the intake and widening the hole in the pcv sensor 😒
Not sure what the smoke is about. Maybe just a representation of air flow? All of them except maybe the Mann are just oil separators. They aren’t intended to filter the gasses, just to cause oil to drop out of suspension and collect in the can. The “steel wool” is just to aid in that process.
I bought a UPR. I feel it is a quality product. In the summer, I dump out about 3 ounces off goo per 900 miles. Installed in 2017 yukon denali. The AFM, was deleted by computer at preformance shop. I'm in Minnesota and dump out 4 ounches every 200 to 350 miles in cold winter. 😊
I have a UPR and have no complaints on 2023 Silverado 5.3L. I figure if a catch can is good enough for a corvette which comes stock, it's good enough for my truck.
Some stuff isn't adding up. You installed a pressure sensor to measure pressure/vacuum. The negative numbers represent vacuum. At idle you got small but negative numbers so at idle you had a small vacuum inside the crankcase but still a vacuum. But contrary to your commentary about there being no vacuum at WOT, your charts shows the vacuum (negative numbers) were much higher at WOT then at idle. I think this is because you are not taking into account that a PCV valve is both a throttling valve and anti-backflow valve. At idle, when manifold vacuum is high, it heavily throttles air flow, i.e. the PCV valve is almost closed so not much of the vacuum is actually "going thru" the valve. In order to prevent excessive airflow, it's also throttling out most of the vacuum, if you will. If that were not the case the PCV would act like a huge vacuum leak at idle. Conversely, at WOT the manifold vacuum is low and the PCV isn't acting as throttling valve anymore because the pintle/spring that's inside it has relaxed under the low vacuum. There's not much vacuum, the valve is open, and unlike at idle, there is a lot of flow thru the PCV valve. Because there is a lot of flow thru the carb/throttle body, what can get thru the PCV no longer acts like a vacuum leak, it's only a small percent of what's going thru the carb/TB, but in absolute terms it's much larger amount that can be tolerated at idle. With a well-designed pcv system you get, at WOT, a bit more vacuum inside the crankcase (as your measurements showed) and more actual flow of the "vapors, mist, smoke, etc" thru the PCV circuit. The other thing that isn't adding up is the idea that the smoke machine is showing anything about oil mist. Oil mist (99% of what's in the PCV system) is not the same as oil vapor. Oil generates very little vapor. Mist is small drops of liquid oil, vapor is literally evaporated oil and is molecules, not drops. Mist can be separated by changes in air stream velocity, which is mostly what's happening in the catch can. The oil isn't being "filtered out" by the steel wool, it's simply dropping out of the air stream when the air stream exists the intake fitting, the volume of the "pipe" it flows thru expands to 4x the size it was, the air stream slows down as it goes thru that larger volume and can no longer carry along the tiny droplet mist. The steel wool is there to make sure there is turbulent flow and that the flow stream spreads out and expands and doesn't just "tunnel thru" to the outlet without slowing down. The oil (and any water mist) drops into the can, the "air" continues out the exit fitting and on its way. (of course, some of the oil/water stays on the steel wool which leads to the freezing problem in winter). Here's the other thing about that smoke as far as the test you did in that giant diesel catch can... Smoke is particulate matter, not a vapor, and therefore it can be filtered out. That's what was happening in that big catch can, that's why you saw so little smoke exiting. And the more oil that's stuck onto the filter, the better that filter will trap the smoke particles. That's why when you smoked it before using it and the filter was "dry" you saw more smoke come thru, after you used it and the filter was "wet", it trapped more of the smoke. I agree that the idea that the catch can catching that oil and keeping it from going back into the intake is doing any good is unproven. It seems like it would be helpful... yet consider this... there are lots of "old school" people who still like to put marvel mystery oil or ATF into the gas tank in the belief it's does "top lubrication" or "cleans the intake". You have one group wanting to put MORE oil into the intake (by putting oil in the fuel) and another group trying to take oil out of the intake!!
Some good thoughts there. The last part about the two groups has a lot to do with direct injection vs port injection or carbureted. Fuel acts as solvent with carbon deposits in the intake tract or the back of the valves. Direct injection engines don’t get that fuel cleaning effect as the fuel doesn’t go past the valves so they get bad deposits that require cleaning eg walnut blasting.
Some good thoughts there. The last part about the two groups has a lot to do with direct injection vs port injection or carbureted. Fuel acts as solvent with carbon deposits in the intake tract or the back of the valves. Direct injection engines don’t get that fuel cleaning effect as the fuel doesn’t go past the valves so they get bad deposits that require cleaning eg walnut blasting.
Not sure if US has adapted what Aussies do when it comes to catch cans but usually with a high performance build you'll see that they most likely got a fabricator to make a catch can (as big as they can so usually over 1L filter which vents atmosphere, 1 line to each cam cover, and a 3rd line which will be on the bottom which drains to sump pan so no longer needing to drain the can, only issue is if e85 is used may. Red to do oil changes a little more frequently since it holds moisture more
Well, you're right on the climateproblem, but reducing the moist will reduce the buildup of carbon due to less oil. The smoke ain't the primary issue but the mist is. Personally I prefer the spraynozzle I mounted just above the intakemouths and the cheap electric gaspump feeding water when I flick a switch. When the engine start to cool of, I switch off for a minute or so.😉 Oh, and it ain't so much due to intakevalves, it's more a general cleansing in my NA gasengine
Good video. It opened my eyes a bit more than I thought it would. I, personally, never considered the effect of having a slight vacuum on the crankcase helping to seal the oil control rings. I’m designing a catch can system now, having a separate, remote, oil reservoir from the separator but need to consider overall reservoir volumes.
I have the PQY on a coyote engine but I've modified it. Mine has 2 inlets, one outlet to manifold and the bottom drain. I put a barbed fitting on the bottom drain and both it and the outlet to manifold instead vent to hoses to the bottom of the car to ambient air. Oh, I removed the pneumatic filter too so it cant clog. Maybe it drips a drop of oil every 30 miles but it never left a spot where I park. So what's the point of the can? Well, now it's really a distribution block for the hoses. But the end result is: Zero oil to my intake, no oil on my valve cover as with little k/n valve cover filters, little risk of both intake or drain hoses clogging with ice, no filters to clog, and zero maintenance. $75 all in with aluminum pcv fittings and hoses. Works for me.
Our kohler generators that use large diesel engines use a filter similar to the mann. They act as a filter and oil separator with a drain routing oil back into the crankcase. The suction side attaches in the intake tract before the turbo inlet. No problem with there being a suction on the filter/separator even under heavy load.
Every time that I used to see someone post the Mishimoto catch can, I would reply with the PQY catch can. Oh, the amount of butt-hurt that came out was hilarious! That aside, I did install the PQY catch can on my former car (2006 WRX) and it did collect material that I needed to empty periodically (ie. every 3000 miles). In that regard, it did it's job as expected, so no complaints there. I do wish that the capacity was greater though. I did not perform an inspection of the intake valves before/after, so I cannot detail if it was truly effective or not. All that said, it would be interesting to see a PCV and EGR filter setup (1 dedicated filter per). That would help to limit oil vapor and carbon.
Has anyone done a back to back comparison in a controlled environment on two identical engines? I get a fair amount of oil in can installed on my truck with a di v8. I find it hard to believe that a can would not be of some benefit, but would like to see that controlled experiment to know for certain.
I learned about this "catch cans" on motorcycles but its a very specific scenario when they are usefull and its in drag racing when they use ethanol or the bike is extremely tuned up and has multiple case vent holes connected to this catch can and then there is a drain that feeds it back into the engine to bring that oil back, but also that drain is used after 1 or 2 runs because the pressure on the case is so high that spits oil straight up instead of vapors or something like that. Weird thing that is being marketed for a daily driver lol
If you still have an EGR, a catch can will likely make carbon buildup worse, because you are removing the high detergent oil spray. If you don't have an EGR, then you still have the issue that catchcans and OEM pcv systems basically do nothing at WOT which is where you want them to work. So unless you are using a vacuum pump or a scavenger, it's all worthless anyway.
J&L is what happens when you prioritize looks over engineering. The JLT intake business that was sold off from the catch can business was the same way, make a fancy looking intake that raises IAT's and has MAF curves all over the place. But, they are nice looking so people still buy them. 😑 Absolute trash...
So true , the complacency that exists now just because you live in the US doesn't mean it's a great product, what made us a products good was the workmanship pride and sheer determination to be the best to provide the best because we as a nation would settle for nothing less we were committed to making a positive example
I’ve been saying this but people still get excited over “Made in U.S.A.” unfortunately. Trump has been doing his best to address this but politics is full of shit nowadays so we’ll see
I've seen them with and without the return line to the oil pan. Some kits just have a length of hose with a valve that you route to an accessible location to drain.
There's a-lot of things people don't need but want and there's situations for all of it. Catch cans have their place DEPENDING on various factors. A-lot of automotive things are not the end all be all but instead something useful for certain designs / areas / circumstances. As for vehicles in the higher up power ranges that are racing. Most are not running them here, a couple do run them here and there has been nothing drastic or notable about the ones with or without. I imagine if they daily drove the things there may be more to go off of but they are not stupid enough to daily drive their actual race cars (Or rich enough... either or.) A-lot of bro science goes into things especially with automotive. I know guys running catch cans on Chevies because obviously there is known issues involving PCV... the ones that have had the best results and the cleanest / healthiest engines / intake systems are not running catch cans but instead are running Top Tier Premium and not just letting the car do short trips. They know their vehicle and what it needs.
Not sure why they used stainless as the filter media. If anything a copper mesh is relatively cheap and has 20x more heat transfer. I use the evil energy for 35$ with a 10$ roll of copper mesh. Mount in a cold place to cool vapour as quickly as possible.
I would love to see how these compare to an air oil separator like IAG. IAG puts a check valve in front of the can to prevent it from getting boost pressure. It doesn't use a filter media, so it should be less restrictive. The question becomes is it effective. MotoIQ used them for their track cars that can puke a quart of oil in a session, so they seem like they should be. Maybe not for normal street driving though.
Minor Correction: a catch can be installed on a boosted vehicle they just require the vent goes before the turbocharger, not after where boost is stored
My 5.7L Hemi has 216K miles without a catch can, it runs great. My 6.4L Hemi has 20K miles with a catch can, it runs great. Removal of the intake manifold on the 6.4 proved lots of blow by gets to the combustion chamber even with a catch can. Assuming one isn't introducing the problems you discussed, IMO less blow by in the intake is better than more. Great review, you may get some hate from catch can suppliers.
Large Ball canning jar Stainless Steel Chain Maille Scrubber with Scotch-Brite Stainless Steel Scrubbers on top. Stretch and loosely fill. Hot glue hoses in the lid, one hose bottom of jar, one at lid. Mason jar hanger and zip ties Large volume and turns mist, vapor to liquid. Clear easy to keep a eye on. Probably have the material on hand. Collects far more than any you can buy. Original catch can from back in the day.
At the 13:30 mark you mentioned that at wide open throttle there would be no vacuum to pull the pressure from the crankcase through the catch can but, correct me if I'm wrong, if pressure builds inside the crankcase at wot the pressure would look for the path of least resistance to travel through which would be the PCV circuit into the catch can and towards the intake anyway regardless of whether there's vacuum or not?
I've been saying for years, it's the EGR valve causing deposits. Catch cans usually catch more water than oil, and the water vapor would actually help steam clean the valves.
I wanted to touch on the water thing as well but the video was getting long as it was. People will spray water down the intake to clean the valves and the same person will install a catch can to keep water from going into the intake. 😂
I would disagree that the EGR system alone is causing the build ups. And it's pretty easy to prove it. Exhaust gases and soot are dry by nature. It's not untill they are mixed with the oil do they have the potential to become a deposit. And the proof is on the valves. Engines don't have build up on the exhaust valves. The soot is dry and does not build up on them. Turbine blades and exhaust manifolds are not coked up. It's not untill the EGR gases mixed with the oil it builds up on the components down stream. Intake valves, EGR valves etc...
@specializ20 if the oil is causing the issue, an egr cooler would never plug with soot... 6.7 powerstroke EGR coolers plug if the truck spends a lot of time idling like what you would see in a fleet application. There's no oil of major consequence in the inlet of an EGR cooler. Otherwise, it would contaminate the DPF. The whole "oil mixing with EGR creating sludge" narrative is pushed by people selling catch cans and repeated as gospel by customers with no first hand experience.
@@RepairGeek play ball with me here a bit. EGR cooler plugging is alot rarer now then it was. And it is more commonly from an problem up stream. What's your comments on engineered explained video on catch cans. I am here to learn not to troll
I am a skilled motor head/ shade tree and involved in Automotive as my career... I've never believed in the catch-can myth. Don't mess with your engine! Solving one issue may cause bigger problems down the road. Cleaner valves= damaged pistons and or head gaskets. It's all expensive garbage. About as useful as motor-oil additives! Don't! Save your money and change your oil more often. Keep the engine clean... that will reduce blow-by.
Catch cans simply do not do what the majority of people who buy them want them to do. They will NOT prevent the accumulation of fouling on the backside of your intake valves. They're just expensive toys that bypass your engine's already engineered method for venting blowby.
How about doing a test on the best catch can out there the duel catch can from UPR..specially made for boosted engines..open one of them and tell me what you think..
Damon Motorsports has the best cans period, Cork Sports a close 2nd. That being said there's a lot more too it then just having a can. You will need 2, one for the block and one for the heads and you will also need to know how the factory is plumbed in and where and how to uses check valves and breathers. Stop mounting them to the firewall, they need to be mounted lower than the source to work effectively.
Damon Motorsports appears to be using a screen rather than a scouring pad. I don't see how that is drastically better than what was shown here. The internal views of Cork that I saw don't show any filter at all.
@@RepairGeek it's about the can design. There's a good write up that was done about 8 years ago on can design, plumbing and check valves on Mazdaspeed fourms. I'll find it and link it for you. Tones of information for both boosted and NA applications.
Mine works good on my car. 2015 Roush stage3. If you are still getting allot of carbon build up on the valves I would suspect that your engine has worn valve guides or valve stem seals.
If the catch can's function really is essential, has any car manufacture implemented a similar solution as part of the pcv system? Is there a solution that allows the fluid to drain back into the crank case rather than storing it?
I see zero point in catch cans. Sure, they trap some oil but no one has proven that the oil is harmful. As stupid simple as it is, if it was worthy, why wouldn't an engineer design an engine with it if it was helpful?
These devices seem very simple in function and you can make one yourself with parts from home depot and the one you make you can make bigger depending on how long the PVC pipe you will use. Using a catch can on a turbo engine may be a bad idea as the oily mist returning back into the intake may also be used to lubricate the turbo a little. I guess it depends at which point in the loop it goes back in. I don't know, I was just thinking that.
Just fyi, look at the 2011-2016 Explorer and the intake snorkel after the air filter . There’s an odd shape box molded into it which acts as drip box for oil. I now have a 2019 f150 3.5tt, bought new and has the dual injector system. I’ve had the phasers done at 59k and all the TSB’s. This baby can make way to much boost, you got bet they knew how to design it, and blown seal from a can is not cool, also live in below 0° climate. I’ve done plugs and rear/transfer case , at 98k and just did the rear rotor and pads, front still have 1/4”.
@@RepairGeek can't foul me buddy. I've seen this last year, maybe. The beginning of the video gave a a nostalgic feeling. When i skipped the 34:49 they way you said you like the first catch can is what clicked and i remeber that back when i first watched it.
You're mistaken. You're probably thinking of this video ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-9FY-YoBkmA0.htmlsi=vF2GDhTH-NoM5R0- I said I would take a dive into catch cans last year.
Catch cans are a total waste. Never seen any benefit, only occasional issues on euro car forums. Typically the type of bro that installs a catch can doesn’t even own the car for long enough to need to clean the valves. 😅
Smoke and vapor are 2 completely different thing. Irrelevant test Also the J&L comes with factory style connectors. Direct connection, no splicing factory hoses. At least for 6.6l gas.
If these cans are actually changing the intake pressure, wouldn't that mess with the AFR in the ecu? (at least during open loop) This would also depend on how the ECU is setup (MAP/MAF, etc..), but I didn't even consider it until I saw your charts. Think it's enough to matter at all, or will it just trim out after a cpl days?
The fresh air that is brought into the crankcase is sourced from the intake tube after the MAF. So the amount of air going into the PCV is accounted for in the MAF reading. What isn't accounted for is how much of the PCV gas is flammable but, that % can be easily made up by a fuel trim adjustment.
Didn't run any on a Hemi, an LS, or a 'stang, at 6,000 RPM+... Which is the ONLY possible reason a person would ASSume they 'need' one. I put an air compressor water trap inline on my hemi & K&N filter on the oil fill. Never more than a drop of oil in the trap, never used any oil, & this is an M6 that never gets grannied unless in tight traffic. Waste of money.
I have a clone of the Evil Energy on my Whipple supercharged 6.2L L86 powered Tahoe. Every oil change I empty the catch can and it is always about 1/3 full of oil/fuel mix. It may not be perfect; but it’s gotta be better to be stopping that oil from cooking on the back of the valves
I use one of these on a gdi Chevrolet engine. Drain it every oil change. There’s oil in it that isn’t on the back of the intake valve. I doubt it catches all the oil vapor but it helps.
I have Ford Everest with a Bi Turbo Diesel. The first month I pulled the cold side pipe and it dropped oil out. I installed a Provent 200 and pulled 2 months later and it was clean, with a hint of a little moisture. (From what I understand) The problem with CCV is the moisture in the EGR system. The EGR actually helps Diesels run better, but bc they route the CCV into it, it becomes a clogged mess. Provent filters are designed to be saturated to perform the way they do. Also, I paid $150 for the complete kit, not 200+. The other CCs should have a pressure relief like the Provent does IMO. I may be wrong about this--------> Your smoke test only proves that Air continues to flow as it should. Good video though, this is something very hard to test but has a simple idea behind it.
My 2012 V6 Tacoma had dry oil soot in the tail pipe, and it was burning more oil than I thought it should. So I installed an oil catch can. Now the tail pipe is clean and truck burns noticeably less oil. I bought two Mishimoto cans, cut out the bottom of one, and stacked the two cylinders to create one tall catch can that holds a lot of oil. Oh, yea, and I installed a drain cock at the bottom. Also, I stuffed stainless steel mesh into the can above the baffle and below the bronze filter to create more surface area for the vapors to contact and liquify. It works like a dream. Yes, I get a bit of water during the cold season (not too cold since I'm in San Diego), but the water seems to vaporize and burn off on its own. Works like a dream. The only drawback is the need to remove the unit every other year for the smog check. I get only a couple ounces of oil at each oil change, and I do periodically unscrew the cylinder from the upper component in order to spray all the inner parts down with carb spray cleaner. Lastly, I think it's also a good idea to remove the unit with its hoses (spray it down like I described) and spray out any accumulation of oil in the hoses, which depending on the angle of the hoses, can pull inside a hose and block it. One last thing. I did drill and tap a hole at the top of the unit directly above the bronze filter. I put a screw in it, which I can remove at the same time I remove the drain cock at the bottom. This allows me to insert the sprayer tip (of carb spray cleaner) down in there and wash things out, then replace the screw and the drain cock -- just a shorter option for cleaning out the insides.
SAE Published a paper on this subject back in 2018: Comparative Performance of 12 Crankcase Oil Mist Separators doi:10.4271/03-12-01-0001 The MH ProVent came out on top.
direct injection or not the pcv system is shooting oil into your intake. clearly based on this video and the comments, whether oil in your intake is bad or not is debatable. I think it's bad
Interesting. From memory, my engine routed the PCV in front of the turbo where there is always vacuum. You would think that would foul up the turbine but there was a air/oil separator built in that I did not know about.
Q's about turbo Vs Na so on boost the Intake pressure negates the Entire PCV system? seems to me more boost will cause more blow by and increased crank case pressure vs NA. I get that it isn't more than intake pressure so the one way valve of the PVC alone doesn't work. so why not have a vacuum pump version that measures crank case pressure and adjusts to pull at 0.5 psi vacuum over crank case pressure always. . I should have been an engineer. LOL I claim intellectual rights on my idea.
@RepairGeek a proper catch can should have a mesh baffle and the catch can should drain back to the oil pan, a hot engine will cook out all the moisture, problem is the OEM don't have an oil drain back bung on the oil pan unless it's turbo charged or aftermarket or the owner installed a drain back line to the oil pan. 2nd a catch can should be air cooled to help the vapors condense in the mesh/filter. this problem is something the OEM should be doing on modern cars.
I've never had to empty my catch can. '19 mazda 3. What does that mean? Yes, it's connected properly. I've put on ~200,000 km since install with brillow inside it.
I have a Volvo s60r and I use the PQY and evil energy catch cans: one on the boost side and the other the idle side. The PQY leaks at the bottom so you have to seal that screw with gasket maker and you MUST remove that copper baffle and just use steel wool. The Evil Energy is good but I would like extra rubber gaskets because after a while they would break.
soooo, I installed a procharger recently so now I can't use provent, unless I can find the provent 700 for sale.. which I can't. but then I added an edelbrock intake manifold and have staggering amounts of oil in the catch can now. I think I need an air/oil separator to at least help mitigate the amount of oil that's running through my old can. in 2 weeks of driving, I'm filling up the can with the same amount of oil as what used to take 6 months. i can't really go back to my old intake either. I sent it to CA from Ohio and idk how long I'll be here. Plus I got the injectors to adapt to the new fuel rail and a tune lol idk what to do. the a/o separators all seem to have an extra port that I have no idea where it would route to (not the drain that goes back to the crankcase)
Thanks for your time on the review. I personally have the J&L on my 2022 Wrangler with the 2.0 turbo. They supply you with factory type connectors to connect to the factory fittings on your vehicle, easy to follow instructions and highquality parts is thoughtful engineering on their part. You don't get that with cheap knockoffs. I catch about an oz every 1k mi. Yeah you need to be on top of emptying it out but if your a DIYer it's a nice setup.
At 100,000 miles I put a camera into my intake, installed an AFe intake tune and JL can on my 2014 F150 3.5l EcoBoost I don't quite fill out up between oil changes, but it does have a decent amount of milky oil. It might not fully stop carbon build up, but looking at my valves now (nearly 200,000 miles today) i can not see a noticeable increase on the valves. Id say if you have a GDI engine, it's be definitely going to help! That said, I'm glad my new ford Edge ST has the newer direct+port injectors
Catch cans with the mesh in them work like an old fashioned oil bath air cleaner. The oi/ water is trapped in the mesh and drains back when the engine is stopped. PC valves work at idle and cruise only, under acceleration they shut off, thats how they are designed, they close to prevent flat spots and false air. Catch cans are not a filter.
I installed a catch can on my Kia. For some reason the captured oil has a foul odor to it. That in itself is not a problem, however, that same odor permeated the engine bay and ultimately found itself into passenger compartment. I couldn’t find why this would be. All fittings and hoses were tight and didn’t leak . I could not figure it out. Yes it did catch a bunch of oil, but I had to remove it because of the smell. I finally gave up on it and removed the whole thing. No more smell.
I use one of those catch cans and it does collect oil. I remove it in the winter because you can see the water mixed in oil in cold weather. Overall I’m very satisfied with it.
I mean you can empty it often lol. Thats what I do on mine. I admire your testing and dedication to testing these. But imo, you’re not supposed to wait until these are full in order to empty them. You empty them often. They do work. May not as well as you would like them to and thats fair. Sure. But I have picture proof that it works on my Accord. I empty my 4runners can every 1-2k miles in the summer and every 500 in the winter due to increased condensation. Idk man, I mean imo, it captures a ton of oil and water and just general shit from entering my intake and depositing on my valves and pistons and such. And yes, the water/ oil mixture may freeze but if its not COMPLETELY full to the top, the gasses can still pass by easily until the hot air melts the water/ oil mixture and all is well. The block of ice essentially just makes the can smaller until it melts. I think you’re playing the “freezing” up a little too much. I have been running a catch can on my 4runner for several winters and I too live in NEO and have never had an issue with any seal blowing out man. I just empty the can often and make sure its not full. If you do that youll be fine. My 4runner also doesn’t have an egr system and I have the same can installed on my heavily modified 2015 Accord V6 manual but have disabled the egr system. Imo, the intake side of the engine should ONLY be for fresh clean air, not oily, unburnt exhaust gases mixed with fresh air. So I understand your trepidation and concerns and while they’re not invalid I think they’re a bit over the top. Anything is better than nothing as long as its not making anything worse which I would emphatically argue that it doesn’t but it seems like you would say it does. Which is fine. Were allowed to disagree. I just wanted to share my experience of running a can through several winters and never having an issue. If you’re so worried about freezing, what would stop the condensation and oil/ water that remains in the stock oem pcv line from freezing and causing issues? But that never happens right? Just empty your can often and youll be fine. Good video man. Thanks for making it!
We can agree to disagree. I don't doubt your experiences at all. The hoses can freeze as well. Just like the Pro-Vent, if the inlet line freezes, the pressure relief doesn't matter because the high pressure doesn't make it to the valve. The price that you pay for one of these also plays into my decision not to use one. If you install one of these you're simply prolonging when you need to do a GDI cleaning, either way you're going to have to do it. You're just pushing the mileage out on the service. Why not take that $200+ dollars in some cases and set those funds aside IF you need to do a GDI cleaning in the future. I shot a DIY valve cleaning video last fall with this Escape featured in this video. At 112K miles it had build up but it made zero effect on how the engine ran before or after the cleaning. I have no doubt that I could have pushed this valve cleaning out to 150K without any problem. Oil has been going into car intakes since the 60s. Teams of engineers design these engines. I'd be surprised if J&L employed a single one... If a piece of stainless steel wool shoved in a PCV line will stop all of these problems, why are a lot of cars going back to Port injection in combination with DI? Auto manufacturers are literally installing 2 fuel systems on some engines because of this problem. If they could solve that problem with some steel wool, you have to figure they would. That could save 10s of millions a year. I completely respect your opinion. At the end of the day, it's your car and your decision. I just haven't seen a single compelling argument FOR these things other than "Wow, look what is in this can".
@@RepairGeek totally respect that and agree with it even. You make a great point about the engineers and such. But the only thing I would push back with that on is in this day and age specifically and particularly, engineers are tasked with producing and providing solutions for government regulations and cram downs and mpg regulations. The reason my Accord (and most newer cars for that matter) require a super light oil such as a 0-w20 isn’t because thats what BETTER for the engine lol. No. Its because it does and okay-enough job at protecting the engine internals whilst providing better mpg as then engineers search for every last 0.00001 mpg that they can squeeze out of an internal combustion engine. A 0 weight oil isn’t the best choice for longevity and for engine protection its the best for mpg. Gone are the days of producing whats best for the engine and longevity. My point is engineers are given a task of designing something to fit a spec that HAS to comply with government regulations. They dont have to fix it or repair it or work on it and they dont have the freedom to make it better even if they wanted to. So its not up to us as the consumer to look out for us because no one else will. And my opinion is anything that can help protect my engine and possibly increase longevity is good for me. But well said my man and I respect what you said. Good job again man.
I've installed an oil catch can on several of my Toyotas. One thing that I found out is that while the OCV valve is generally around 3/8" the size of the intake tube is 3/4". I've used larger ports on the oil catch cans to help with this while sometimes I've had to use a 5/8" hose and then use a 5/8" to 3/4" barb fitting so I can attach the proper size hose to the intake. It's good to know that the larger hoses are a good thing though!
