You forgot a few things! Atlas cedar, Himalayan cedar, Chinese or Canadian white cedar (although white cedar is high in Thujone which is restricted, not sure if there’s a rectified version or not). Also, there are many different species of juniper in North America, and in fact there are six or more species that grow in different parts of Texas. Also I think the term “fake cedar” is a bit negative in connotation. Juniper is very similar in odor to old-world Cedrus species, even though it’s not that closely related. Many of the isolates and aromachemicals you mentioned are found in juniper! It’s similar to Amyris wood smelling like Sandalwood. Juniper, like Amyris, is very plentiful and not endangered. It’s therefore cheaper than Atlas or Himalayan cedar. So using juniper makes sense from an economic perspective, as well as an ethical and ecological perspective.
I would have liked to talk about the other cedars too, but sadly I don’t have a high quality sample of them and I didn’t have any more time for the video - maybe in the future though! And I see what you mean in that fake might come across as negative, but that’s not the intention! I just thought is was an interesting fact
I really love the pencil shaving smell of Virginian Cedarwood. I personally prefer it over the antique smell of Cedarwood Atlas which I also like. Cedarwood Virginian is one of my top 5 most favorite scents: 1. Bergamot 2. Patchouli 3. Virginian Cedarwood 4. Frankincense 5. Ylang-Ylang
Hello Sam Goodnight, Of the most known cedars, I have several, Virginia, Texas (false cedars) then the real ones, Atlas, China and Himalayas, but it seems that the most interesting is the Lebanese Cedar, but apparently it is very rare and it seems that sometimes it is faked. Often in the Perfumery sector, especially in natural products, it is difficult for them to always be real, so much so that I have been thinking about buying some real Oud for some time and I am afraid of spending money and buying a fake product. Another very interesting product in the Cedar line, but a little more complex is Cedroxide, at first I didn't like it but in the dry down it is quite interesting. I think that Cedar, like Patchouli, Sandalwood and other woods, wins over time, I'm here comparing a Virginia Cedar that I bought in 1996 and one that I bought in 2021 and the 96 wins in points, the same with Patchouli, my oldest at around 28 years old, has a softer and more pleasant note than other more recent ones, Vetiver also improves with age, compare an 81 Vetiver (Java, Bourbon, Angola, etc.) with a recent one is to compare black with white, nothing to do. Congratulations for this video, I've been following everyone but I don't always comment. Best regards.
Thank you! The article I mentioned in the video talked about Lebanese cedar, I’ve not had the chance to smell it myself though. I did consider talking about cedroxyde, but decided not to since despite the name, the chemical structure is completely unrelated to the rest. And I think you’re right about these woods ageing - I once smelled some 60 year old vintage sandalwood and it was incredible!
Nice introduction! Coincidentally I just started working on a perfume around cedar (and derivatives) and ionones. - Also worth mentioning is Chinese Cedar oil which has a wonderful subtle smokey facet and is a unique and quite different cedar scent. - Epoxidized cedarwood oil AKA "Cedrone S" is a very nice derivative and quite a rich cedar like scent (leans slightly towards Atlas cedar). - If you like the pencil shavings scent in Virginia but really clean, try Cedrene; it's one of the chemicals mainly found in Virginia.
Thank you! I haven’t smelled cedrone s or cedrene so I’ll have to keep an eye out for them. I do have some Chinese Cedarwood and I agree on it being more smoky :)
Yet to watch this but I've recently found your channel and it has greatly enhanced my knowledge of the subject. Thank you. PS do consider making a video on resting/ macerating/ maturing of fragrances. There is little to no clarity on that subject in the fragrance community. Specially the point that if a perfume company doesn't do it can doing it ourselves improve it's performance/ smell quality.
Thank you! And the reason there’s no clarity on macerating is because it’s unique for every perfume. Sometimes it gets better, other times worse. The only way to know is to try it for the given perfume.
Ive been cutting wood for years and i always know when im working with cedar. This is really cool info for someone with no chemistry background. Thank you!
hey sam, I absolutely love your content and have been getting so much out of it. thank you so much for that. I would love if you could cover maturation and maceration, as these are relatively difficult subjects to uncover on the internet. at the very least I am looking for some resources on these subjects. best wishes to you and yours!
Thanks! To be honest there’s no real theory to maceration that I know of. The way I understand it, it’s different for each perfume, some get better and others get worse over time. The only way to know is to test it.
Hey Bro, I just started getting into the fragrance making game. I live in Canada, and I’m having issues finding where to buy perfumery alcohol and where to get essential oils and cologne oils for a decent good price.
hi Sam, thank you for this! I learn a lot from your videos. question: why didn't you upload the audio of your videos to podcast anymore? I love listening to your podcast. thank you!
Iam always thinking one thing when i make perfume why is always cloudy well i use method eu de parfume 80% alcohol 20% oil i put 6 mill essential oils then i put 1 mil coconut oil and then fill with alcohol to the top 30 ml bottel when i put acohol it become cloudy and you can see little bobbles of oil why this happening to me
Great video. In your opinion what is the best stand alone synthetic Cedarwood note/chemical? Which of the 3? AlsoIs it possible for me to add trace amounts of actual drinkable real Rum and Whiskey in my fragrance concentrates?
Hello Sam, i have another doubt, if you can share your exp. About accords, lets say you create 2 accords, first accord oil A+B, second, accord Z+Y, then let them age 3 months, afterwards, you blend both accords and dilute, so we have perfume 1. Now, the same thing, accord 1 and 2, but I am not making the accord, I simply drop the oils A,B,Y and Z, all at the same time, and without aging nothing, dilute right away, and we get perfume 2. The question is, if the perfume 1 and 2 are the same notes at same scales, same dilutions, same ingredients, but one done with aged accords, and the other just mixed and diluted the same day without accords, will result in the same perfume after 6 months for exemple???
Hello Sam, I'm looking for a good paper material to use for testing material combinations. Scent strips are fine but go quickly in this case, so I'm looking for a sheet or page of paper material to blot on.. I've tried card stock paper but this is no good, being treated with all sorts of chemicals from the start which reacts badly to materials, everything smelling like bug spray. Would you know where or how to get the same scent strip material in sheets or what else could be used? Thanks.
Love the videos but feel like others without Atlas or Himalayan cedar its incomplete. Love Eden Botanicals in the us for those EOs and great quality and sourcing
Hi John, for sure I would have liked to cover those, but I simply didn’t have the time or the necessary samples. I thought I would cover the most common ones for beginners.
I have a doubt In good scents company website there is substantivity for each material My doubt is if substantivity is 200 hours at 20% Will substantivity increase if we take 100% of that material or it will remain same as 200 hours?
Is this the reason I dislike Cedrat Boise on first impression? I get a smoky, woody, mature vibe. I'm trying to pinpoint the note so I know what fragrances to avoid,
Great video! I have a question which I can never seem to find a straight forward answer to anywhere I search.. and it may seem like a silly question but I’m hoping you can help? Once I have established my perfume formula and percentages for my perfume concentrate (which includes pre diluted aroma molecules at varying percentages 1%, 10% 50%) say I’m making a 30ml edp bottle for instance and I want a high strength with 6g of perfume concentrate (which includes dilution so there’s already perfumers alcohol within that) when adding my perfumers alcohol to the mix wld it be inaccurate to assume 24 g wld be correct because essentially there’s already perfumer’s alcohol tied up in my perfume concentrate formula so is a recalculation of the raw material of actual perfume fragrance molecules needed? Sorry if this sounds obvious but i can’t seem to get a definitive explanation on this concept because if the concentration of perfume after its many trials was obtained neat it would seem so much simpler but I’m just struggling to get clarity on this notion as I’m dealing with pre diluted I pure materials (I guess what’s making it harder is I started out with the fragrance oils which I see you did too! The wrong way but it was a simple 20/80 ratio of fragrance oil to perfumers alcohol hence the math part is more complex now! Many thanks so much, love all your videos this is literally something which has been confusing me for the longest time 🤦🏾♀️
@@sammacer Azzaro Homme Cologne Intense (2021) has mastic gum in it, and it is described as a coniferous and terpenic note. I've been wandering how that particular note can be created and used in perfumes. :)
Hello Sam. Hope you're doing great. I am making perfume impressions with perfume oil and alcohol, but I am facing projection issues, like after 5 minutes my perfume become body scent will you help me what should I do for increase projection/Diffusion. Thanks
Thank! There’s no one answer here but maybe try some of the formulas in my video on perfume bases. Many raw materials don’t last that long so you need to find the ones which do.
The reason for dilution is so you don't waste unnecessary materials when you are creating a formula/perfume. Once you have the proper formula then you can blend them according to that. You will always need to dilute from there on depending on the safety advice from IFRA
@@juelraj3901 im asking when we completed formulating our fragrance then we will start to sell perfumes right so if we are making perfumes for selling purposes do we have to dilute materials (other than absolutes and resinoids) or do we have to put it in pure form?
Working with dilutions gets your smell closer to your final product- the one going into the bottle to sell. Smelling your aromachemicals at 100% is too strong and does not smell the same as what you spray on your body. You should have fragrance concentrate (your formula at 100%) plus perfumers alcohol. The product you sell should be somewhere between 10-20% concentrate plus 80-90% perfumers alcohol for your atomizer (or oil for roll on). The final percentage is up to you, but yes it should be diluted for selling. Also, if ALL of your ingredients are diluted to 20% it is the same idea as working at 100% and it is cheaper. You still get the same baseline. As you get more products, you will notice some things are just too strong and overpower your other smells. They need dilution to play nice in ur formula. Lots of math.
I don’t have a high quality sample but I gave my thoughts on the one I have a few years ago in this video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-g4_c3obuFPo.html
@@sammacer Thanks man I'll give it a watch. I enjoy your content as a beginner its hardest to figure out the proportions of things and your videos and sample recipes help with that. So I appreciate you.
Thanks for all you do, it’s been cool watching you grow bruv. When I found your channel a month ago, you had 13K. 4 weeks later and you’ve gained 1600 subscribers in a week. Keep up the solid work bruv 🤌🏾
