I'll be using three different colors of Cerakote and vinyl stencils to create a custom camo with a halo effect. The colors used are: H-146 Graphite Black H-242 Hidden White H-317 Sunflower Yellow
Turned out very nice man. It's always cool to see shops using non-traditional colors in camo. A lot of people don't think they'll turn out but in our experience, they are some of the best custom camo choices. Great work.
@@alaskanmancave5301 / @bransoncerakote you two guy are very good at what you do and helpful to all that are just getting into the business . I cant thank you enough for all the instructions given keep up the great work .
Great video. Thank you for the explanations. I’m doing ok with solid colors. I’ve been planning a camo pattern and now seeing yours it makes it much more comfortable on my mind.
LoL it took me a day and a half to do my first camo job, and it looked way different than I thought. The colors were reversed, but it still looked pretty cool. Still trying to figure out how to get the lines off the edges of the stenciling.
I've only watched one minute of your video and I like it already. I wasn't sure where you were going when you mentioned yellow as a color. I was impressed when you mentioned the leaves where you hunt turning yellow. I've painted many a gun and the person is always kinda surprised when I ask them for a few pictures of their primary hunting spot. I've always said that if you're going to paint your rifle paint it in the colors you are going to be in.
Not new but...A young man on RU-vid shows how to "divert light" via plastic and bending (cloaking him). Wait till Magpull really "see's" or doesn't. Magpull, send me a check :)
Amazing Work, truly awesome. The 3d effect is very real. I just want to know why you decided to change the direction of the stripe stencils. On the upper and lower receivers it is going up and to the right, but on the hand guard you went up and to the left. Also, what did the rifle look like fully assembled? Did you do the barrel and buttstock too?
Nicely done! Closer to Anchorage or Fairbanks? And what are your thoughts on cerakoting a base color down like white, using Krylon over that and finishing w/ cerakote clear? And lastly, do you have an opinion on cerakote micro slic?
Krylon more than likely wont stick to fully cured cerakote. Sometimes even the air cure clear wont stick to cured H series. Cerakote has so many colors I would just stick to one type of paint that way you can avoid any potential compatibility issues
Hi, awsome colors, this inspired me to try and do it myselve... Gathering tools and such.. Could you tell me what kind of stencils I need to search for to get as close to the one u designed?
Looks great! I have a question. You were touching the gun parts with your bare fingers placing the stencils on. Didn’t the oils in your fingers hurt the next coat of paint?? How’s you get around that.
I was curious how someone did a rifle and you pretty much answered what I was thinking on that fade. I found a picture of something similar on Google images and thought it would look killer on my new VR80 AR style shotgun. Guess I'll have to design another stencil. Just to be sure, you tacked the first color, sprayed your second color, and then fully cured the Cerakote... How long do you think you waited for the first tack to cool down? And how long do you think you waited to cool down before peeling the stencil? I had a little problem with 4 colors wanting to peel the paint off when I took my stencil off. I don't have time to experiment like some of you guys do. Still a very good video, you did an excellent job
Multiple colors can be a real challenge with cerakote. There is no set time for how long it takes for a color to tack out. Some colors take longer. Also the thickness it was sprayed on and oven temp. The material makes a difference too. Plastics and aluminum heat up faster than steel. I guess the simple answer is 10-15 min at 180 usually works. If your doing mutli colors I try to do the minimum time in the oven to help keep that first layer from curing too much. If your paint is peeling off the layer below definitely cured too long. If it is peeling off to base metal the surface prep wasn't good enough. My best advice is to try and minimize time in the oven for tacking. If there is an area that won't show then you can touch the paint and check if it has tacked. As far as the stencils, I pull them off while they are still hot. It makes it way easier. I also give it about 30 minutes after my last coat and pull all the stencils then back in for a full cure. Good luck.
Nice work man! Im curious if youve ever had any issues with the glue residue from the vinyl after putting it in the oven? Also im assuming after peeling the stencils you put it back in for a full cure? 🤔
Sometimes I get small patches of residue from the stencils. Mineral spirits takes it off easily. Sometimes I leave stencils on for the full cure but most times I pull them after about 20-30 min.
Did you have to completely break down your paint sprayer when changing colors? As in 3 cleanings? And do you charge the customer for 3 colors differently than if it was 1 color? Thanks and great work
Yes I clean my gun between colors. I usually do not completely break down the gun though. I have a video that shows how to properly clean the fluid path of your LPH80. And yes I charge the customer accordingly when stenciling and using multiple colors.
Is it with it for a cheapie like a ~$800 rifle? I know it’s silly. They’ve already got nice optics. Not sure if I should save for an expensive AR with it included or maybe just cerakote my palmetto, Smith and Wesson, or bushmaster. I just dig the look so much
I noticed you handled the weapon with your bear hands while attaching the stencil, do you need to degrease the metal afterwards or is it safe to apply paint afterwards. Great video Thanks for producing it.
That is good question. You need to really look at yourself for the answer. Obviously the right answer is to degrease again. Personally I have very dry skin and I always seem to get acetone all over myself reguardles of how hard I try to keep it off. With that combination handling parts with bare hands works for me. Everyone is different and the conditions we work in are different as well. You will need to determine for yourself if you are able to handle the parts without requiring additional degreasing or continuing to wear gloves through the entire process. Thanks for watching and your question.
If you have "bear" hands you probably should get all that deer, elk, or moose grease and blood off of them or degrease the work before proceeding. But if you have dry "bare" hands you might be ok. Just joshing!!!! Good point and very good question. I was thinking about that as well.
I'm not sure if you did this or not but by the commentary I suspect maybe not. You want to do a bit of an extended flash cure with the final stencil later and then remove the stencils before going into the longer and hotter final cure.
Is the idea behind that to eliminate the potential of leaving marks on the finish where air bubble were? Cause in the past I have had a few come out like that. I have found that if I get a proper flash cure I don't get the discoloration. And yes I do usually do an extended final cure with multi color paint jobs.
Is the curing Temperature 180 degrees F or 180 degrees C. Are the Vinyl stencils made from the same material for masking items for Powder Coating? What brand is the Vinyl stencil material?
The curing temp is 180 degrees F. And yes powder coating vinyl will work good. I use Avery Dennison high bake vinyl. It can be purchased through cerakote or many other online venders.
The only time there could be an issue is if you cure the other layers too much. Or dry spray too if you spray from too far away or improper spray gun set up
@@alaskanmancave5301 it really is nice I'm from south africa it's a little bit of a problem to get something like this here..... It really is beutifull😔🙃
Well I guess that can be an issue. These same techniques can be applied to whatever paints you have available and it can be applied to whatever object you want to paint too. It is fun customizing your stuff. By the way check out my other tiger stripe video. Cheers mate.
@@alaskanmancave5301 I did its awesome I'm going to it but the yolow one is beutifull and unique will try that one I'm subscribed now keep posting... Have a nice one Greatings from South Africa Earstern Cape if you ever visit here let us no👌👌👍
@Niiswii Willard Haha some people are just too crazy. I mean for a range toy, sure. I dono if i could ever paint something ridiculous on a firearm personally. I love my OD greens, tans, browns and 100 shades of FDE's '-)
Also do you coat the inner of the upper and lower? They didn’t on my Sig tread snakebite. Just the outer of the upper and lower. Not even the hand guard… 😐
@@alaskanmancave5301Thanks for the reply. I've had my FFL & SOT for 13yrs. It's been fun & work. Unfortunately, I live in Florida. I really like the camo work in this video. If you get your FFL soon, I would be interested in your work. WE thought about doing the Cerakote our salves, but I'm leery of the investment & initial waste.
@@ZeNkIxFc use Avery Desison SF100-235 high bake vinyl. Cerakote sells it on their website. Or many other online retailers. I usually get it from UScutter.com
that all depends on whether you make or buy stuff. I built my oven for about 200$ sand blaster is 500-2500 depending on how big you go. Air compressor with enough CFM to run a sandblaster will be 2000-4000 then if you go with a spray booth, commercial ones start about 2500. I built mine for about 800. then there will be the spray guns 15-400 depending on if you buy a junk gun or a good one. I'm sure there are a few more misc items you'd have to through in there too. so it is not cheap to get started.
watch one of my other videos for the base coat. Since it is anodized materials i sweep blast it and spray the whole thing one color, in this case hidden white.
Looking for ghosting for your weap can be difficult. I saw this and added it for one reason. I wanted mine to look (regional) yet, look like a train wreck (don't know what your looking/seeing...at). Take James Deans car (after) then clobber more and rust it...Train wreck.
