September 2015, mountaineering, mountain... Cervin, Cervino, Matterhorn... South-West Ridge, Lion Ridge... Pennine Alps... Breuil-Cervinia, Col du Lion, Refuge Carrel, Pic Tindall, return summit ... Thanks to Paul Millet and Baptiste Galli...
150 years ago... On July 10, 1865, mountaineer Edward Whymper met Valtournain Jean-Antoine Carrel, an Italian guide who also dreamed of making the first ascent but via the Italian ridge, the two men having already attempted his ascent, without success. Wymper wants to hire Carrel but the latter refuses because he is already involved in this project with the Alpine club. On July 12, Wymper noticed that Carrel's party had already started the ascent, so he upset his plans and decided to attempt his from Zermatt, the Swiss side of the Matterhorn, via the Hörnli ridge (ridge northeast) which is reputed to be more difficult but which will turn out to be easier in the end. He then formed his party with Lord Francis Douglas (a young English aristocrat who financed the expedition), Peter Taugwalder son and Peter Taugwalder father, peasants who supplemented their income by playing guides. Arriving at the Hotel du Mont-Rose, they meet the Reverend Charles Hudson and his young and very inexperienced companion Douglas Robert Hadow who have hired the Chamonix guide Michel Croz (renowned for his sense of the itinerary) for them too. attempt this first ascent. The two British parties then decided to join forces to try to climb the Hörnli ridge together and set off from Zermatt on July 13 for the formidable summit. On July 14, the rope of seven men reached the summit around 1:40 p.m., Wymper and Croz having separated on the last slope to arrive first and second...
On July 17, 1865, barely three days after the first ascent, the Italian team led by Jean-Antoine Carrel, including Jean-Baptiste Bich, Abbé Amé Gorret and Jean-Augustin Meynet, made the first ascent of the Matterhorn by the Lion ridge (southwest ridge), more difficult than the Hörnli ridge...
- 1st ascent: July 17, 1865 - Jean Baptiste Bich, Jean Antoine Carrel.
- 1st winter: March 16, 1882 - Baptiste, Jean-Antoine and Louis Carrel, Vittorio Sella.
- 1st winter solo: 24-25 December 1936 - Guisto Gervasutti.
- 650 meter high mountain route with a few passages of 4. fixed ropes in place.
00:00 Approach. Orionde Refuge. Lion Pass.
01:59 Col du Lion refuge Carrel first fixed ropes.
04:41 Carrel Refuge.
05:40 Departure from the Carrel refuge, fixed ropes.
06:55 Sunrise under Lion's Ridge.
08:50 On the Lion's Ridge. Mixed below Pic Tindall.
10:40 Pic Tindall, l'Enjambé, Col Félicité.
1:25 p.m. above Tindall Peak.
15:15 The first Pirovano strings and Jordan scales.
18:25 Arrival at the top of the Matterhorn.
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27 июн 2024
