Chainsaw Carburetor Cleaning 

What's the carb adjustment tool for, I couldn't find it in the video

@@Piccyman1 The high and low speed jets can only be adjusted with a special tool. If your saw runs good then you don't need to worry about adjusting the jets. If not, Husqvarna recommends turning them both all the way in and then out 1.5 turns. Start the saw and adjust as necessary. There are many good videos online that explain how to get them dialed in just right.

Thanks, I appreciate the feedback! :)

Your attention to editing and clear shots is amazing. Thank you.

@@trailerhater Editing is the most time-consuming part so I'm glad you like it!

That's always my goal, thanks for the comment! :)

If I can do it, so can you! :)

Thanks, I appreciate the comment!

Hahaha, I know the feeling! Once you do it, you'll realize it wasn't nearly as bad as you thought. Plus, if you somehow completely screw it up, you can always buy a whole new carburetor. :)

I could take it apart....

@@thomasforan5598 Hahaha, yeah, I did have the advantage of video in case I needed to refer back for reassembly. :)

I appreciate the feedback, thanks for watching! :)

That's great, I'm glad the video was helpful, thanks for the comment! :)

I'm glad the video was helpful. Yeah, it's always best to get the rebuild kit for your specific carb rather than for the saw model. Thanks for the comment!

That's what I strive for, all of the detail with none of the fluff. :)

Thank you! :)

Thank you for watching!

That's really good advice. I'd hate to get it all apart and then hafta wait for a rebuild kit, if needed.

I'm glad it was helpful, thanks for the comment! :)

Hopefully that'll get it running right for you, let me know it goes!

How did it go ??? Did it sort it 🤔

Thanks, I appreciate it! :)

Thanks, I appreciate it! :)

I'm glad you liked it, thanks for the comment! :)

​@@Mikeattempts.si estan muy Bien explicados!!

That's great, I'm glad the video was helpful, thanks for the comment! :)

@@Mikeattempts its a dry run of what I should see / expect. 8ve watched enough 2vintage videos where pretty much carbs are always done. a couple other steps as well.... but seriously, big thanks

Thanks! :)

Thanks! :)

Thanks! :)

Thanks! Yeah, if you're careful, you don't even need to buy anything, it just takes a little time. Yep, most "small engine" carbs are very similar. I actually did a video cleaning my weed eater carb ( ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-G6noZ99bC4U.html ) and my mini-tiller carb ( ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-QVYbxnajJd4.html ) if you'd like the see the differences. :)

Thanks for the feedback, I appreciate it! :) This is actually a 445 but I'm not sure of the year. I got it for free because it wasn't running.

Thanks, I didn't zoom in enough notice that. It explains the slight differences.

I didn't use a rebuild kit because everything was still in good shape. You can pick up a rebuild kit at Amazon or eBay. Thanks for watching!

That's great, I'm glad to hear the video was helpful, thanks for the comment! :)

I ended up re-using all of the parts, gaskets, and diaphragms so I never did check to see which brand the carb was. I'm no pro but, in my opinion, you can't go wrong with Walbro or Zama. If I needed a replacement, I would go for whichever was easier to find parts for. :)

I'm no pro so it's hard to say for sure. Does yours have a little decompression button on the top? This makes it easier to pull and then closes itself once the engine starts. On some gas engines, the ignition coil can be installed backwards which causes a very jerky pull but usually they can only be installed in one position. Something could be bound up in the rope mechanism. Or maybe something is wrong inside the cylinder which is causing excess friction. If you're able to figure it out, let me know!

Thank you! :)

That's what I thought the first time I did it, but it all worked out. :) The only things you could really destroy would be the diaphragms or gaskets but rebuilt kits are cheap.

Hahahaha! :)

I think brake cleaner is too harsh, I wouldn't use it. Electrical contact cleaner might be alright but I'd get carburetor cleaner, if you can.

Not really because if it was that easy to flush debris out the carb, the fuel pumping through it while running would keep it clean.

Hahaha, it might seem overwhelming but it's really not that bad once you get in there. Plus, if your chainsaw already isn't running, what's the worst that could happen? :)

That's very true but those are probably aftermarket carbs, not OEM. I think it's interesting to get inside, see how it works, and fix it for free. :)