This video is 10 year old. I have a similiar problem and couldnt figure out what. The more i drive and the more annoying it gets. Stopping and taking off would feel something loose and went on for years. Went under truck and moved the shaft and yup alot of play and the shaft support is gone. It can drive since it my only truck but will be ordering the part right now. Its august 17, 2024 today and this video helped good to understand the symptoms of the annoyinces. Gracias sen̈or!
One of our viewers wrote to us with thisawesome tip. Thanks Dallas! Jeff, I watched your RU-vid video of replacing the drive shaft support bearing. Great job explaining and showing what you did. I have two comments. One, it would have been more helpful showing how you got the old bearing off. I had to cut mine off. Two, you said your buddy charged you $50.00 for pressing the new one on. I laid my new bearing out in the sun on a piece of galvanized sheet metal and placed the shaft in front of my air conditioning vent in the house for about 45 minutes, then slid the bearing on bare handed. Might could have put the bearing in the oven being sure not to exceed 160 degrees F which might damage the rubber. I learned the trick replacing wheel bearing races. Keep up the good work. Dallas
I did not read all of the comments. The clunk is a combination of bad carrier bearing and splines needing grease on the two piece driveshaft. Good video thanks.
You bring up a great point. I asked the Machine shop where I had my CSB and U joints replaced about greasing the splines. The answer was yes just a little goes a long way. If binding occurs you want to blow a U-Joint not the Rear end or Tranny. U-Joints are by design the weak spot on the driveshaft for this very reason. LIGHTLY GREASE THE SPLINES
Thanks Paul, in my day job I work with Canadians weekly. You guys rock, great people, great country. I was born in Detroit - so I missed being a Canadian by about 20 miles or so, oops I mean 32 kilometers. LOL...
great video, very informative and simple, and the way you speak about the operation you undertook was very easy to understand and thank you so much SIr.
methods correct or not,video was very easy to watch and you listen too, i often zone out with too much tech jargon and when been given to many details et etc,basically you know more than i do so enjoyed feeling more confident about having a go on this part of a yet braved area of a vehicle.great cam work to.thanx and apprec your time and care to help others for nothing other than (i presume) good will...respect (dion/NZ)
+Dion Moss Thanks for the kind words Dion - we hope it helped your project. Things don't always go the way you think they will which is a major point of the video in addition to fixing the center bearing. People who do DIY projects recognize that S&^t happens and we just keeping moving forward...always, always, moving forward. Again, thanks for your thoughtful comments and watching the video.
Yes witness marks are the way to go at every junction/joint to keep the assembly in the original orientation that it was balanced. Would a long 2 or 3 jaw puller remove the bearing? Apiece pf pipe could be sized to use as a bearing installer if it cannot be heated to slip on. Enjoyed the it got me steps in making the repairs and getting help.
Excellent video! I'm new to the idea of carrier bracket bearing problems as I've never had a pickup until recently. I've had a little clunking here and there so hopefully this will solve my problem. Also, I must say, I seriously envy the lack of rust on the bottom of your truck, it's absolutely beautiful...gotta love NJ salt
Nathaniel Christensen Thank you for your kind words Nathaniel and I hope you enjoy your pickup. I recently replaced this Chevy with a 2019 Ford Super Duty and I hope to do an overview video. This thing is a beast...
you did good with press. they cant be done in reverse well its best to slip a steel pipe same size as inner bearing just enough to fit over the shaft and beat it in slowly .
Thanks for the video of the American vehicle median bearing replacement. Luckily I have a 90 lb Starrett vise sitting on a work table and using the vise to gently clamp the shaft and basic hammer; I removed and reassembled the new median bearing back on the shaft with gentle tapping walking the hammer blows around the bearing. The local auto parts has different size exhaust pipe short sections that can be used to tap the new bearing back into position (not a really tight fit of bearing to shaft male end). And there you have it. You can now visit that local machine shop guy and just buy him a 6 pack of his favorite brew and forget the $50 charge.
Why did you have problems using your 12 ton press. I just changed my center bracket bearing and u joints on a 2002 Silverado 2500 using my new 12 ton Harbor Freight Press with no problems? Like your Video.
I recently did this to 2001 chevy silverado ...had to cut the old one off. But it was easy going in...1st clean shaft sand lightly to get ride of any bild up.....then heat bearing lighly inuff to fell the heat off of it ...and use a dust off or I used lighter fluid refill bottle upside down to freeze the shaft then light taping with a pipe that fits over the shaft and up on breaking
+Matthew Marshall Thanks Matthew - this video has taken some pretty rough comments from our viewing audience in the past. We always saw it as having value in the sense that "not everything goes the way you think it will." We still think it has value because of this, thanks for watching and thanks for your kind words. Also, we're about to release a new video - Timing Belt Replacement on a 2000 Mazda Miata. It's one of the more complex DIY jobs we've undertaken. Even if you don't own a Miata it definitely shows some pretty serious surgery being performed on an engine.
Great job! Your right when you say things don't always work out the way one thinks they will. Always snags here and there when working on these trucks. Like I said Great job, you learned, you saved some hard earned money and taught some people on here how to get the job done..
Thank you so much for uploading an intelligent video. Would have liked to seen the bearing being removed, and pressed back on, but it is what it is. Thanks.
Thanks for note Michael. I would have liked watching the bearing removal and installation as well. The guy who did the work was this old salty dude who was a little low on interpersonal skills but way-high on the technical skills. I got him to warm up to me after I picked the drive shaft up. Next thing you know he's showing me cell phone pics of his son and the IMCA modified stock car they race at the dirt track. I didn't see that one coming, LOL.
dirtyshirtinfo I use to operate farm equipment, and had all the tools, and shop equipment available including an old salty guy to turn to for advice. Now with one vehicle I don't want to turn a bearing into a learning experience. These videos help a lot. I was able to learn a lot about engine diagnoses with scanners from "Scanner Danner" here on Y-tube. Definitely a good resource to share.
FWIW when you mark the driveshaft, you only need to mark the slip splines that you took apart. You got lucky that it's a spline that only goes back together one way. Other driveshafts may not be that way. They're balanced as one unit. If you don't slip it back in exactly how it went, it will be horribly unbalanced. All the other marks don't matter. The one mark that does it the slip between the two driveshafts... The "paint" on the splines is actually glide coat to help the slip yoke slip under load.
That press will work for removal and installation if it is the 20 ton Harbor Freight model. Just did mine with it. The trick is that it is just barely tall enough to work. To press the bearing on, you lower the platen as low as it will go. The front yoke slips between the beams of the platen and the u-joint horns on the driveline side just barely side on the beams of the platen. You then take two pieces of 2 inch structural channel and place them around the splines above the bearing. Hold the structural channels together with a c clamp. You have to offset the whole driveshaft in the press as you won't be able to get under the 2 or 3 inch long round press post. You have to user the crossbar directly under the jack. If you cut the structural channels to be as long as possible to fit under the press, you can use the same pieces to press the bearing on all the way. If you cut them too short, you will eventually run the press into the spline shaft and have to cut longer pieces of structural steel to finish pressing the bearing on all the way. It was a total MacGyver process but I was able to make it work so it is possible if you don't have another choice. I was 30 miles away from the closest shop and my only vehicle had the driveshaft sitting on the floor of my shop.
AS FAR AS REPLACING THE BEARING, I TOOK IT TO THE MACHINE SHOP. THEY REPLACED ALL THE U JOINTS AND THE SUPPORT BEARING, TURNED IT AND BALANCED IT FOR 200 BUCKS. KINDA HIGH BUT I DROPPED IT OFF BEFORE I WENT TO WORK AND PICKED IT UP THE SAME DAY AFTER I GOT OFF WORK. I THINK IT WAS WELL WORTH THE 200 THEY EVEN PAINTED IT ALL BLACK IT LOOKED NEW WHEN I PICKED IT UP
+bigtruck182 Video title has been changed to "Challenges With Installing a Drive Shaft Center Bearing" to hopefully clarify the nature of the video. Thanks for watching.
"Thank you" is not enough. But thank you very fuckin much .. very informative .. though i have a Dodge RAM 2500 8ft bed 2011 and its time to change bearing .. your vid was first thing to see .. very valuable info in it .. i know its 2 different trucks .. but the concept i guess is one ..
im having major issues. i have a 1995 toyota 4runner that lost its drive shaft...when i say lost I mean lost...locked up in front ujoint and flew off truck at 65mph and snapped both yokes. i bought a new shaft and yokes from junk yard today measured everything 3times. now we are 1/16th of an in off in the rear from it sliding down into place to be bolted on. any suggestions on getting the last tiny bit in
good video very well explained, i just had this problem witha an isuzu amigo i was getting this clunk when braking to a complete stop and upon take off and change the center support bearing and problem solved..
Do you have you have to have a press or a machine shop to replace the bearing? Im 17 and my Carrier Bearing on my 03 Silverado is beginning to get loose and I would like to save some money and change it my self before it gets to bad.
crzyboy46ds We'd have to say yes to the question of whether you need a press or a machine shop to remove and reinstall the bearing. Could it be done without either of these? Probably. But that's going to depend a lot on your skills, creativity and the tools available to you. Without a press you might even have to fabricate a tool to help with the job. What about contacting your high school auto shop or calling a local parts house - they might either be able to do the work or refer you to someone who'll do it if you buy them lunch. Good luck.
easily done with that press, use a clam shell bearing puller on the press to press it off, then flip the shaft over , and use the press tool that came with the bearing, and push it back on pretty simple
Got a question... Im having the same issue with my 03 duramax 3500. I got up under my truck and I notice the rubber piece on the carrier bearing it not suppose to be like it should. I have play at that point just like you showed in this video. So at this point I am sure that I have to replace my carrier bearing as well. The clucking noise you described, Did you hear and feel this a lot when taking off and stopping?
Hello Victor, yes, the clunk occurred every time a foot was taken off the brake from a dead stop and you could feel something wasn't right in general - mostly during braking and acceleration. Note that the rubber and the bearing are all one piece. If they're sold separately (we're not even sure that's possible) that's news to us. Note that there was probably nothing wrong with the bearing in the video - it's the rubber isolator that's the problem. Unfortunately to replace one component you replace the other along with it.
great video. I was thinking of doing this job, but my guy probably charges $50.00 -$75.00 to replace it for me, might as well have him do it and not get dirty this time, hahhhahaha
I JUST DID MINE. I HAD A PROBLEM WITH THE NEW BRACKET THAT GOES AROUND THE RUBBER. WHEN I TIGHTENED THE TWO BOLTS IT WOULD COCK AT A SMALL ANGLE. ENOUGH THAT I GOT A HIGH PITCH SQUEEKING NOISE . I FIGURED OUT THAT IT SLIDES OFF THE RUBBER IF I TOOK OFF THE LITTLE STRAP THAT HOLDS THE HOUSING BRACKET AND THE RUBBER TOGETHER. I TURNED IT A HALF ROUND . WHEN I TIGHTENED THE TWO BOLTS IT SOLVED THE PROBLEM
ANOTHER PROBLEM IS I HAD SOMEONE ELSE DO IT THE FIRST TIME . THEY MUST HAVE BOLTED IT IN A DIFFERENT POSITION THAN THE ORIGINAL. BECAUSE THE HOLES ARE A LITTLE SLOTTED. AFTER I GOT IT OFF I COULD SEE THAT THERE WERE TWO DIFFERENT MARKS WHERE IT HAD BEEN BOLTED. SINCE BOTH SHAFTS SLIDE IN AND OUT. IT WAS CONFUSING HOW FAR TO SLIDE THE FIRST SHAFT INTO THE TRANSFER CASE . MY HOLES ARE SLOTTED WHERE THE BEARING BLOTS TO THE FRAME. THEY ARE ONLY ABOUT 1INCH SLOTS . I ENDED UP SPLITTING THE DIFFERENCE. YOU CAN PULL THE RUBBER BACK WHERE THE TWO SHAFTS SLIDE TOGETHER TO SEE HOW FAR THE BLUE SHAFT SLIDES INTO THE OTHER. IT WOULD BE NICE TO KNOW HOW FAR IT SUPPOSED TO SLIDE IN SO I CAN POSITION THE BEARING IN EXACTLY THE CORRECT PLACE
Looked for a video for my car but there aren’t any out there . Here’s some info to hopefully help someone from making the same mistake I did. 2015 charger se awd rear drive shaft cannot be disassembled. You will have to replace the entire shaft. Between $ 1000-1400.
Its called a blind spline, so even a blind man can install it. You could have done it all with that press you have. I have the same press, and did this job over the weekend. Nice video though.
AngryCookieman01 Not only is the press not tall enough but the horizontal press-bed is not wide enough to accept the diameter of the drive shaft. Given these problems we took it to a machine shop - he did the job for $50. I kept the press and used it to install bearing races in a jet ski trailer and will replace control arm bushings in a Dodge truck this morning.
AngryCookieman01 Go to my channel and watch my video. The press is tall enough. feel free to email me, and I walk you through it. musherdeeds@gmail.com
Musher Deeds thanks for the info, but the press is about 4-6" too short for an ext cab Chevy. Your Dodge shaft looks shorter. It sure was nice to have for the u-joints though.
The "thunk" you were pointing out in the rear end and transfer case is normal. You were doing this on parts cold and when they are warmed up after driving, most of this goes away.
The "Transfer Case" sits between the transmission and the drive shaft on this 4 wheel drive truck. If I said trans-axle at any point that would be in error. Of course 2 wheel drive trucks would not have a Transfer Case. It's difficult to determine your knowledge level from your comment - no disrespect is intended if I misread your question. Thanks for watching.
In your video description you say watch the video to see how we did this and in fact the video did not show how you did this you just simply said you took it to a buddy shopping did it boring
Cuz. Dealing with this Now... I've been die hard chevy. My whole life.... I'm on my second silverado I've owed. Sorry to say. SAD TO ADMIT, ALWAYS CONSTANT ISSUES... MEANWHILE, in the driveway, the wife is washing her her 2017 Nissan Altima. This is HER second Altima. The first one ran for 400,000 miles. It didn't even break down at the end. We TRADED it in for a newer one. And just like the old one, just the scheduled tune ups and oil changes. NEVER NO PROBLEMS from the Nissans. But BOTH my silverados have been on TOWTRUCKS and out of service more times than I can count... I'm losing FAITH here....
We've owned 3 Nissan's: A Sentra when we were young marrieds, an Altima, and my first pickup was a small Nissan (forgotten the model) with an extended cab with jump seats. We would agree these are good vehicles. I did trade the truck in the video for a Ford F250 Super Duty but I've only owned it for a year. Time will tell but I love the new truck and I liked the Chevy when I bought it too.
@@dirtyshirtinfo FACTS. IF I EVER BUY ANOTHER SILVERADO. IT WILL HAVE TO ABSOLUTELY BE WORTH IT. Have you seen the Silverado Goliath 6X6? Over 3hundred thou. The day I can afford it, and if it breaks down. It automatically becomes the house. Got a price tag like one. Or I could have the wife drop me and pick me up from work in her ALTIMA. We'll get some quality time and a beautiful marriage because of the commute. Thanks Nissan😜
You could have used a big punch and hammer to remove and install the carrier bearing ! Thing is don't make a video of replacing a carrier bearing if you don't have the proper tools to complete the job . Harbor Freight sells punches !
Turning the video sound on will help you understand the problem. I TOOK THE SHAFT TO A MACHINE SHOP TO RE-INSTALL THE BEARING. This was clearly stated. What part of that does not make sense?
