14.5 v LiFePO4 settings were too high for my system...Back to User settings Epever 40amp charge controller: amzn.to/3C6oYoY As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases
I have two recommendations and a few remarks. First, the boost time should be set to 2 hours. 10 minutes is too short. Holding at 14.2V (3.55V/cell) for a good chunk of time gives the BMS time to balance the cells. Because BMS balancing is rather slow, 10 minutes is just not enough time, and BMSs generally do not do any balancing once the voltage falls below 3.50V/cell so no balancing will occur at the float voltage (nor do you want it to). For daily cycling, holding at 3.55V/cell for 2 hours is just fine, it won't hurt the battery. (Also note that the battery will continue to charge for about 30 minutes after reaching 3.55V/cell so you get another 3-5% of capacity by holding for longer, but the main reason to hold is for BMS balancing). If you want a range, I would say 1-2 hours is reasonable. 30 minutes is on the low side. 10 minutes is way too low. If you want to be conservative, I would still set it to at least 1 hour. Think about it. If the BMS is able to balance at (for example) 1A, 1 hour is only 1Ah of balance capability per day, which aint much. The BMS's in these batteries typically have a balance current of 250mA to 1A. -- Second, the charge limit... I don't know what that parameter even does on that device, looking it up. Their documentation doesn't really describe what that parameter is for. In anycase, 14.6V doesn't sound like a good value (3.65V/cell). The BMS disconnect is typically at 3.65V/cell and generally speaking you do not want to regularly exercise it. You want the charge controller to never get up to that voltage in the first place. So maybe set that to 14.4V (3.60V/cell). (But again, the documentation does not say what this parameter even does so I dunno). I suspect the charge limit is the highest voltage the charge controller is allowing itself to put out in order to compensate for a remote voltage sensor that reads a lower value. If that is the case, I would definitely reduce it, possibly even down to 3.55V/cell (14.2V). -- A remark on the float voltage. Your selection of 13.6V (3.4V/cell) is reasonable. The valid range for LiFePO4 is roughly 3.35V/cell to 3.40V/cell (13.40V to 13.6V). The two most typical values used are 3.375V/cell (13.5V) or 3.40V/cell (13.6V). Generally speaking the selection comes down to how much load support you want. 3.40V/cell (13.6V) will provide more load support before the load draws the voltage down below the battery's float sweet spot. That is, the charge controllers understanding of the battery voltage is not the actual battery voltage due to load, so 3.40V/cell (13.6V) gives you more head-room for load support while the solar is still generating. -- A remark on voltage surges. What typically happens is that a large load suddenly disappears, which causes the battery voltage to suddenly rise. If the charge controller cannot react quickly enough the charge controller may wind up pushing the battery voltage even higher in addition to the natural rise. In addition, when turning off an inductive load (such as a pump), a surge can propagate backwards through the inverter and into the battery. Result being an over-voltage alarm. This is usually an indication that the load is too large for the battery, or the charge controller is deficient in some way. Usually the right solution is to add another battery in parallel. Doing so reduces the C-rate going into and out of the batteries, reduces the voltage slew rate, and gives the charge controller more time to react to changing conditions. Plus surges fed back through the inverter have more to work against and the voltage doesn't spike as high on the DC side. Perhaps the "Charge Limit" is also causing a problem on EPEVER. But only if you have a remote voltage sensor setup on the battery (verses the charge controller just gauging the voltage from its own battery tap).
Glad to hear. Mine is set for 2 hours for my lithium setting. Got a bit worried for a second. I'm pretty sure my lithium battery has its own over charge protection etc.. anyway.
Holaa le saludo de lusiana como configuro mi epiber con mi mtt50 mis dos baterías de lifepo8 a 24 boltios quiero subirle la carga a 29.2 pero nop se como aserlo me podría ayudar
Hello, I wish all the best, health and happiness for your huge help with the LiFePO4 settings for Epever MPPT controller through MT50. I say thank you a thousand times!!!
So great Just received my same unit but I have 2 interstate batteries hopefully standard setting will work yours is first video that show any setup When I connect batteries do I need a fuse and disconnect switch. They don't have much in support Thanks again
Thanks for you video. My system is similar as yours. I use the same controllers and have 2 600 watt strings. My battery is 24 volts @ 300ah. Typically I run a 250 watt load 24/7 ( my computers and monitors ) Every sunny day my batteries are CHARGED to 100% by 2pm. Then the dance starts. 1: the controllers stop charging ( normal as batts are 100% ). The battery are happy with no BMS alarms. 2: immediately on step 1, my inverter alerts HIGH VOLT, this clears by itself and the inverter comes back on in milliseconds. 3: on power interruption my load shifts to ups, a auto switch switches to mains then quickly back to solar as the inverter has cleared “high volt” and the auto switch senses it has returned. 4: UPS sees clean inverter power and selects “Inverter”. 5: batteries fall to 95.6 % while under load. This is a typical controller “micro charge” during the fall from 100% to 95.6 % ALL SOLAR POWER IS WASTED ! That’s 1200 watts in my case. 6: Controllers sense batteries are @ 95.6 % and start charging again, also carrying load. 7: Batteries hit 100% and the dance repeats. Goto step 1. The inverter alarm is very frustrating but the waste of power during the controllers micro charge is infuriating. With todays generation of controllers you have to manually keep the batteries under 100% by adjusting the load with respect to solar production. A near impossible task. Alternatively, one can hook up step down voltage regulators before the controller solar inputs and “bleed” excess power before the controller goes into a micro charge dance. I waste a large amount of power on sunny days. I’ve also been battling the high volt alarm FOREVER ! I’ll give your settings and let you know. Thanks One last thing the EPEVER software on pc is indicating the system max battery voltage was 36.55 volts ! Not good for a 28 volt bank.
Thank you so much for the great details on the "dance" . I'm still dancing a bit with mine as well for many of those same reasons you mentioned. Currently, I now have controllers set to 14.3 boost for 90 minutes. No alarms at all on either the controller's, or inverter. Haven't had the best solar conditions lately for me to have a definitive verdict to report, but so far, so good. I'm now using and testing a smaller Victron cc on a smaller application, and it so far is superior to the Epever. I may at sometime switch to a larger cc from Victron for the large bank if I don't get the Epever dialed in. Continues to be a experiment for me on this issue, but I'm so far extremely impressed with my initial use of the Victron, it's ability to really be a true MPPT. It's so fast. Stay in touch, and let us know how it progresses for you, and we'll do the same. Aloha 🤙
@@ProjectsinParadise808 Thanks. I’ve keep your setting of 14.2 and 20 minutes boost. The 35 volt spike is GONE ! You have greatly helped me as every day I worried that the spike would damage a component ! I have verified it’s “removal” via pc software, oscilloscope “ in case it was too fast to see” and running a Wyze camera with sound 24/7 for months. No ALARM, no ac voltage interruption, no snap sound as my transfer switch stays on “solar power” 24/7 ! I realize my battery’s are not charging to full capacity but I don’t care as this is only better for them.. and I’ve got enough capacity to run my equipment for 3 days without mains. (300 watt draw ). With the main annoyance solved I still see micro charging. I’m convinced this is a under reported issue with EPever chargers. I am currently building a dynamic system capable of switching loads ( I call it the “Lisa” system after Green Acres where Lisa would have to plug in and out circuits as not to blow a fuse ! ) I am making great progress in utilizing the excessive capacity at mid day sun. Simply running more devices would create more micro charging cycles.. not acceptable. Anyway, it’s too complicated to explain in text but basically voltage on the batteries are “sensed” reported to,a program called “node-red” that automatically turns on 3, 30amp 72 to 12 volt regulators hooked in parallel using power blocking diodes…feeding another 12 volt inverter, BEFORE the controllers thus greatly reducing available solar input to my controllers inverter and rapid cycling when “ON” ... the “Lisa” project will dynamically switch loads between my 28 volt and 12 volt inverter based sun conditions and battery charge. 100% batteries and a clear forecast delivered to node red via api means “Lisa” will choose step down regulators over solar controllers. Still have to get yet another ups to cover the occasional cloud in that scenario….. anyway all info is good, I thank you again for you suggestion! Wish we got as much sun in Virginia as Hawaii ! Plus I could grow tomatoes year round !
Thanks. This helpful. I have a van with 320w solar panel. My controller is an EPEver 30a. My battery is a single 155AH 12v Deep cycle AGM with this recommended charging profile of Bulk charging V: 14.5-14.9; Float charge 13.5v -13.8v. I don't have the MT-50 monitor or the app yet. I'm set to GEL factory preset and suspect I'm missing out on faster charging since I think I never boost/bulk above 14.2v but I'm not sure how to tell. My voltage never reads above 13.8v, but I don't think these controllers show you Volts in, only Amps in right? Dumb question, but is my current voltage an indicator of what's coming in? Also not sure if possible to change the profile values of a preset profile without a monitor or App? I'd like to have GEL (with no balancing) but tween boost from 14.2v to 14.8v. Thanks.
Thank you for sharing those settings, Would like to see more videos in re of your setting adjustments with the mt-50 . And explane how they effect charging if possible. thank you.
@@ProjectsinParadise808 Thank you for your video...I used it as a jumping off point.. However I'm getting parameter error trying to set to chins factory settings... I'm sure I'm missing something in the order of changing the setting that is causing the problem.... Any insight would be appreciated... Please and thanks
I do greatly appreciate your sharing this information, you prevent or remove many headaches for those following your channel....ie, me. The following are perameters sent to me by Chins upon my battery order .... I'm seeing many differences here .....(?) Dear Customer, Thank you very much for your purchase. The setting method of MPPT and inverter of 12.8V lithium iron phosphate battery pack is as follows: Charging Charging Limit Voltage: 14.2V Over Voltage Disconnect Voltage: 14.6V Over Voltage Reconnect Voltage: 13.8V Float Charging Voltage: 13.8V Discharging Low Voltage Disconnect Voltage: 11.6V Low Voltage Reconnect Voltage: 12.4V Under Voltage Warning Voltage: 12.8V
That looks about right for all the parameters. I've had to make small changes to compliment my system, and you may to over time. Let us know how it goes....aloha 🤙
Great video thank you. When putting in the ah in the controller (at the risk of asking a stupid question here) you put in the combined ah of all batteries correct? I have 2 x 105ah batteries so I put 210 as a value.
hi, a question, I also have this 40ah regulator which I will still have to install but could you tell me if I can set it to lifepo4 lithium without mt50 obviously with default settings? or is this additional display necessarily necessary? Thank you in advance
Would definitely be nice to be able to adjust some of the settings in the lifepo profile. The user profile unfortunately disables any low temp disconnect which is fairly useful where I’m located. Maybe a software update one day can fix this.
I totally agree that they should allow the ability to adjust the pre-set Lifepo4 parameters. At least now as many times as I've made adjustments in User settings it goes pretty quick. 🤙
I’ve had an issue with the epever. I had a loose connection and the charger stopped charging. Is there a way to reset the charger? I tried factory reset but no good. Disconnected and reconnected solar and battery but the pv light hasn’t come back. Update- It finally came to me that I’m using six 100w panels thus occasionally overloading the controller. I removed one series set(2 panels) and it is now working properly. I will be installing a second small controller to run the other two panels.
I used to have the 40-amp model but now have the 60-amp model. Can I use your settings with 6 120-watt panels in parallel, 2 100 ah Lipo4 batteries wired in parallel using a 200-watt pure sine wave inverter? I will be changing to a 3ooo watt inverter shortly. My controller never sends more than .2 of an amp to the batteries even though I have around 30 amps going to the controller even when the inverter gives a low battery warning. I am having to use a lipo4 charger to charge the batteries since neither Epever controller will send more than .2 of an amp to the batteries. Could it be the batteries BMS systems stopping a normal amount of current going to the batteries from the controller or do you think I have 2 bad Epever controllers that were both bought new? I am getting the same number of amps out to the battery using these new settings you shared with us.
@@ProjectsinParadise808 Voltage is close to where it should be from the controller 21 to 22 volts going to batteries just very little amperage even though I show around 30 amps to the controller when I measure it right before going into the controller. Battery voltage is about 12.5 volts right now. The inverter disconnects about 12.5 volts volts. When that happens I turn off inverter and recharge batteries with the Lipo4 charger.
Exactly. Was an easy parameter to adjust for that, and 14.2 now is fine. Just one second of the over voltage on inverter tripped. At least it worked as stated! aloha 🤙
I have a couple of Tracer4215BN controllers and they only offer USER type, no LIFEPO4. 1) Is a firmware update available? 2)I realize you don’t need it in Hawaii but in our mountains, I need the low temperature cut off protection. 3) When my the battery BMS shuts off the batteries due to low voltage, my system is not waking them back up the next sunny day. Which settings are crucial to making that work? Thank you.
Not sure about a firmware update. I actually went back to user settings when I still had them up and running. The LiFePO4 setting was just a tad high for my system so I dialed it down a little in user setting. For me every time I've had a LV disconnect, it came right back up soon as sun hit panels again. Aloha! 🤙
Ya did a really swell job of navigating through each screen. I didn't see you CHANGE any settings. I see no blinking cursors, no indication of options. HOW do you change the values?
How do You change the settings? I have the Tracer 8420AN changing My 48v system. I too am getting voltage spikes of 61v when My well pump turns off. That makes My inverter shut down. Any help is appreciated.
You need to go into "user" settings to adjust to your specific needs. I have found going lower keeps everything running smoothly, no spikes. In my 12v system 14. 4v-14.6v was too high for my conditions. Currently 14.2v, bulk/absorption, and 13.5v -13.6v works perfectly, no spikes. Hope this helps you...aloha 🤙
I have no experience with solar panels or 12V batteries, but I purchased four 12V, 100W, 7A portable briefcase solar panels wired together in parallel, to power a 12V direct current portable outdoor swamp cooler I am trying to design. I don't know how big (how many Amp hours) of a lithium battery it will require. I will not be buying and using an inverter because my devices are 12V direct current devices. I will not be using the swamp cooler when there is no sunlight. I want to buy / implement an MPPT type charge controller, but I have no experience with solar charge controllers. Do the EPEVER Tracer charge controllers require that you connect the charge controller to a Wi-Fi signal? My swamp cooler and solar panels are going to be portable for using in wilderness areas where there is no Wi-Fi signal. For air flow, I purchased two 12V, 120W, 10A automotive radiator fans and two motor speed controllers (potentiometers) with on / off switch to be able to turn-on and slowly adjust and set the desired fan speed of the two fan motors. The water will be supplied by a 12V, 3A submersible water pump dripping water on top of 4 honeycomb swamp cooler water bricks. There is always a momentary surge of current when powering on electric motors, but perhaps the motor speed controllers will reduce the power surge of the two 120W, 10A fan motors. I do not know how much to allow for a momentary power surge each time I power up the two fans. An auto-electric technician told me a 12V 120W 10A automotive radiator fan can momentarily cause a power surge up to 4 times its amp rating, but I don't know if that is correct. 3 times its amp rating would be 40 amps. What is your opinion on that? Will a motor speed controller wired to each fan prevent a power surge when powering on the two fans? My four 12V, 100W, 7A portable briefcase solar panels will be wired together in parallel to provide a total of 400 watts, 28 amps. If you were me, would you use a 40A MPPT charge controller or would you use a 60A charge controller for my swamp cooler? The total wattage used by the two fan motors plus the water pump will be approximately 260 watts at the most. How many amp hours of a 12 volt lithium battery do you think the swamp cooler will require? If you were me, would you use an EPEVER 40 amp controller, or would you use an EPEVER 60 amp controller for my swamp cooler? If I buy the 40A charge controller with preset programming for lithium batteries, do you think I will be able to use the preset program settings for my lithium battery or, should I manually program (the 'User' program setting) the controller with the same parameter settings as you did in this video?
Nice video. Can I use 1 unit of MT50 to programme up to 5 different units of EPEVER Tracer 10415AN (100A) charge controller for Lithium ion battery (LiFePO4)
I would have thought you could simply take it in turns setting each unit with the same MT monitor. I used one monitor for setting my 24v system and my 12v, it worked fine. I'm here trying to find the correct settings for my new Pylontech up2500 batteries, any ideas?
Hello! Thank you for this video. I will use an Epever 5420 with Lifepo4. But on a system with 24V. If i double your numbers will this work for me? I have a 230AH Battery. Sorry for my english, i am not a native speaker. Thank you for your time answering me.
@@JR-kk6ce I searched the internet and in a german forum i found the following numbers: Over Volt Disconnect 29,6V Over Volt Reconnect 28,4V Equalisation Charging 27,6V Boost Charging 27,6V Float Charging 27,6V Boost Reconnect Charg 26,4V Boost Duration 120 min Equalisation Duration 120 min Charging Limit 27,6 V Discharge Limit 22 V Low Volt Disconnect 22,2V Low Volt Reconnct 25,6 V Under Volt Warning 24 V Under Volt Reconnect 25,6 V Temp Compensation 0 Celsius In the forum was a big discussion and this were the final results they figuerd out.
@@JR-kk6ce No problem. I will eventually go down to 29.2V with Over Volt Disconnect. That would be 3.65V per cell. But I have to test that. My LifePo4 cells are still charging and I'm still waiting for my BMS. So I'm far from done.
@@manuelmuller6117 yes, that's seems like a good idea, lowering the over volt disconnect. It is all very confusing to me, too many variables depending on the battery and other equipment. There is a value to the time a person invests in getting it 100% correct. Part of it is fun. Still...
Thank you. Unfortunately for me my inverter goes into high voltage alarm and does not reconnect until I turn it off and back on. Hopefully these settings will help. The inverter is useless if I cannot use it while the battery is charging.
I am just starting with a solar system. I have 2. 100amh. Chins battery. This summer all I want to do is charge the battery from shore AC power. What equipment do I need to accomplish this. Next season I will be up grading to a full solar system about 1300watts. Any help/advice. Thanks
@@ProjectsinParadise808 Are you using the default lifepo4 parameters on the Victron? How do they compare to the default parameters on the Epever? With the Victron, does it avoid the voltage surge to the inverter with lower default voltage parameters, or does it do it by switching the overvoltage cutoff faster? Are you using the Victron default lifepo4 parameters, or did you use a user-customizable profile with that controller as well?
Hi, let me start by saying that I am a beginner in photovoltaics, so I ask you for help since I have the same Epever 40ah regulator with mt50, 500w panels, but with a 300ah lithium battery, so I ask you to modify the battery parameter with respect to the yours then I can copy the rest of the parameters like yours? Thank you in advance and congratulations for the video
Welcome to being your own power station! Good fun, and you won't regret it. Although it can be addicting! So I eventually set everything on those in line with what the Victron controllers use as a preset. 14.2v for bulk/boost/absorption and 13.5v float. I set for 2hours at 14.2. This works well for me , althoutgh I don't run the Epever anymore. All Victron currently. I keep the Ep as backup. But for me the Victron is so much easier with its LiFePO4 preset, it's just plug and play! Best of luck and have fun! Aloha!🤙
EPEVER has terrible support. My first one I bought using on a 200 watt array in parallel would show on occasions an output wattage well over 200 sometimes almost 400 watts. Sent it back but haven’t installed the replacement yet. If anyone has a phone # for support please share. Their email tech line is really bad because I assume it goes to China?
What eventually worked perfectly for me was 14.1v for bulk without setting off any alarms. 14.2v was just a little high, so I kicked it down a tad. aloha 🤙
Bulk (charge target) 3.55V/cell x 8 = 28.4V Absorption, same voltage, hold for 1-2 hours (so the BMS can balance the cells) Float 3.375V/cell or 3.40V/cell x 8 = 27.0V to 27.2V No "equalization" Max voltage from charge controller, if such a setting exists, would be 3.60V/cell (28.8V). The battery's internal BMS disconnects at 3.65V/cell (29.2V). -- Most "Dumb" LiFePO4 battery chargers (that are often advertised as being "Smart") charge all the way to the BMS disconnect of 3.65V/cell (29.2V), which is actually too high. Charge controllers in off-grid setups should never be set that high.
Its there for load support. If the battery fills up during the day, runs through its absorb period, and drops to float, and the sun is still out, you want the solar to contribute to the load. No reason to drain the battery when solar is still available, after all. So for a lithium battery that undergoes daily cycling, you want to have a float setting. The business about "lithium doesn't need a float" is related to storing the battery... putting it on a shelf. You don't need to trickle charge a lithium battery for storage, that actually puts unnecessary stress on the battery. Instead you charge it up (100% for LiFePO4, generally more around 80% for lithium-ion NMC/NCA chemistries), and just put it on a shelf. Depending on the BMS's vampire draw you'd want to recharge it every 6 months to a year. Raw cells can be stored for several years, in fact.
@@junkerzn7312 Very helpful information. I bought a 200ah Lithium battery to use on my pellet stove this past year. I don't plan on using for anything else, which means it's not going to be used but for emergency power outages, which only happen a few times a year. Will the battery last if just sitting unused and only charged periodically? I've heard that they like to be "used" every once in a while, to keep them healthy, etc. Your thoughts?
I always charge to 13.8(bulk), then CV charge for 2 hours with 13.6 volts. The battery will be at 98 tot 99 % but because you are charging so high the cell will be hotter and degradation will go much faster.
For a LiFePO4 battery you really need to charge to 3.55V/cell (14.2V for a 12V LFP battery). Charging to any voltage below 3.50V/cell (14V) means that the BMS in the battery will basically never be able to balance the cells. Specifying 3.50V/cell (14V) exactly is also a no-go because voltage measurements may differ between the charge controller and the BMS, so the BMS might not read 3.50V/cell internally and again might not turn on cell balancing. For daily cycling situations, it will NOT hurt a LiFePO4 battery to use 3.55V/cell as a target (14.2V). The battery cells will NOT be hotter charging to 3.55V/cell (14.2V) verses 3.45V (13.6V). Really, they won't. Once a battery reaches 3.45V/cell (13.6V), it is already on the exponential portion of the charge curve and current is rapidly going to drop. Your Float value is reasonable.
Don't know if you can do this now but if you put in MT50 in the video title it will probably boost your view count because it's what people are searching for
well just made a 115$ mistake. i just got the epever 2215bn and didnt know i cant use it on a lifepo4. so before you buy make sure you get one that charges a lifepo4.
Surely you can use the "user settings" which means you manually adjust the parameters to suit the battery recommendations. Finding the recommendations, is not as easy a task as one would like to think it is.
@@robinhood4640 the controller does not have does not have a screen. So I have to buy a screen they sale for it then I can set it. I have a another one I'm using
Your LiFep04 should always charge at above 14v, yours is 13.7 means you're not properly charging the battery and you're also wasting panel output, The issue in your case is your float charge 13.6V, it should be around the same charging volts 14v+ so you always utilize the most juice out of your panels, let the bms do it's job, also you may wanna consider a dc to dc converter so those voltages hikes don't set the alarm on your charge controller dc to dc stepdown to 12.7 volts
