Hello From U.K. Great Video, so on July 25 2023 started at 10am, unfortunately the 5 Battery Tray bolts were rusted in, managed, eventually, to Drill them out. 😩 Couldn’t though separate the Electric Fan connector 😩 A neighbour with muscles managed to pull them apart (i’m 80) So at last by 4-30pm most was done. Today the 26th spent 2 hours finishing off. Good news, the Brand new Cooling Fan Works. Lovely to read all the comments.
None of this works on a PT/GT, eventually you will have to remove the extra cooler from the front of AC rad and the oil dip stick tube, and it's still a struggle
I ordered a Dorman without relays. When I got the old one out, there was no connector to transfer the old harness too. Just one set of wires going to the the fan. Went a head and sent that back and ordered another one. A lot easier that it looked on video. I consider it a dry run now. Love the videos. Keep up the good work.
Great video, I felt well prepared as I tackled this project. One tip that I don't think I heard you mention. You'll need to have ramps or jack the car up to get underneath to access the lower bolts and the power plug. The power plug is a little finicky but with a flathead screwdriver you can press down on the latch to get them to come apart.
I’m glad you found it helpful, I’m not sure if I had it jacked up or not, I can’t recall, I’m pretty skinny and there’s a bit of a dip in the ground where I was working there.
@@CarswithNash I have a friend that's handicapped older cant walk. But had his Starter go out.So this is my Blessing to help where the Good Lord calls me..Thanks again that help got this Job of a 2009 Starter done. Much better from up top with no Jack stands
Thanks for the video. I'll be tackling this job this weekend, except for me it'll be 103° in the Hill country central Texas. The high speed on the fan went out on mine as well, 2007 PT. Tip: Use a rubber glove and rubber band on the upper radiator to avoid the sloshing.
That’s a nice big fan. Looks fairly thin as well. Could be a good find in a wrecker if someone was building a hot rod of looking to put in a electric fan into their old muscle car.
boofighter Yes for sure, even to buy one new is not that bad. They are pretty narrow so they would fit into most the old hotrods as well. You really gain a lot of power from switching from an engine driven fan, up to 30HP they discovered on engine masters, one of the most overlooked mods.
Great video! My old fan is durect wired, and doesnt have a plug...does it matter which of the 2 blue wires are connected together..there is 2 blue and one black...
Would this be a good project as my first time working on a car? It looks like a good first project. My PT runs all funny when the AC or fan is on and we are at stoplight or in stop and go traffic. From my studies it seems I need a new fan?
Justin Yes it’s a pretty easy job if you follow this video, you can just buy a fan motor and it’s just 3 bolts that hold it to the housing and a clip on the fan blade (new motor will include new clip). I’d plan on spending a couple hrs at least though, the bolts on the sides of the fan housing are a little tricky to get at, but doable. Your symptoms do sound correct for a bad fan motor, it’s a pretty common fail point with the age and average miles of these cars now.
I have to think that is unrelated to the repair. Unless you bumped something and loosened it up or something like that… Try to Chi dance to retrieve your error code (3 quick key cycles ending on “on”, the code will read out in the odometer display)
I know this video is kind of old but I just did the same job on my PT cruiser 2005 remove the top hose presented air to the system I guess just adding more fluid to the system and doing what you did in the video is okay I'm hoping I was wondering do I have to bleed the system through the little bleed port or is that only if I completely bleed the whole system thanks for the reply
That bleeder is only when you fill the system, it should be open and then you close it when the system gets to the level of the bleeder. For this you are not losing enough to get anywhere close to that level and filling the last little bit you always have to squeeze the air out of the upper hose, that is the only trick make sure you squeeze that hose and get the air out.
I came to this video curious about the disconnection and reconnection of the electrical plug. I don't have a jack, and just by eyeballing it, I don't see myself being able to get to from underneath without one. And from up top, it seems like a tight fit as well.
I need help 🙏 I have a 2003 turbo 2.4L PT cruiser. We had our fan replaced and it’s on constantly. Bought a bigger one; problem is both female ends. One is a 4pt and fan is a 3pt. Can we cut wires and connect it? Or is there an adapter I can buy?
I replied to you on the fb group but I will copy and paste my answer here as well. I would just stick with the factory part, the fan is controlled through the computer so I wouldn’t advise cutting wires and trying to wire something on that wasn’t meant to be. That 4th wire is probably a control wire that is needed.  i’m not sure what this is about your fan being on all the time was that something you intended to have or want to have? I mean I have a wired circuits into cars before and put a manual fan switch on the dash, that is how my Mercedes is in fact and it’s an option if your fan wasn’t working properly to start with.
Is there a way to test if the fan kicks in on High? I changed mine and it starts when I turn on the AC on a cold start, but how do I know that it will engage the high speed when necessary? I have a 2003 1.6 non-turbo model
In this case I didn’t bother any kind of test because the fan was rough to turn so it was clear it was bad anyways. But I believe it’s just a three wire connecter and so one wire is ground one wire is high and one is low, if the fan is dead on one of those wires when you send 12 V to it then you know it is an issue. Of course it might run for a few minutes even if it’s bad and then conk out… So for me personally since these are just mine and my families vehicles I typically don’t bother with those kinds of diagnostics, I just toss a new fan motor on and then I know it’s good, call it preventative maintenance if it ends up being something else.
@@CarswithNash Thanks for the reply. The thing is, the main and still unresolved issue is I can't shift gears when the car gets hot. In winter it's not an issue, but in warmer weather it is. While driving, ie. in motion, the issue seems to let up a bit. I changed the master/slave cylinder kit and the clutch (all new), also adjusted the pedal, but the problem is still there. So I came to the conclusion that it must be that the fan doesn't go in high speed, thus not cooling the whole system enough. But since that was replaced some 30k miles, or 3 years back (also new) I'm kind of doubtful the fan is the issue, but rather something else. But then again, I may be missing something...
@@VanjaZavisin I have dealt with that shifting issue before and it’s nothing to do with the fan, if you have already adjusted the pedal for a max engagement then it means that the clutch is worn and needs replacement. Also if the bushings get worn on the ends of the shift cables that can affect it as well.
@@CarswithNash As I said, I just replaced the clutch, so it can't be that. Also, I'm not sure how the bushings can affect that. Because it feels like the clutch does not disengage correctly. But I did check the bushings on the motor side, and they seem alright, no play there (I installed the booger bushings there).
Hi Matt, I managed to confirm that the fan is working properly, but as the days are getting hotter, the shifting is getting worse. I noticed that the clutch cylinder reservoir get fuller as the problem gets worse. Is that normal? The difference is quite noticeable. From a normal level to "full to the brim"...
my PT is a 2004 turbo model with a separate fan motor...(i think)... So is the process the same as if you were only changing the fan motor not the whole fan assembly
Actually on a turbo I’ve had to pull the radiator and fan out as an assembly if I recall, I don’t think there is room because the radiator is thicker. Otherwise I think the fan motor changes out of the assembly just the same, not sure if the motor is the same part number but it mounts the same.
So my car keeps overheating. Ive seen that as the motor heats up the fan does not kick on. So in going to the auto store. There showing the whole fan and motor coming all together as a complete unit. I said no my mechanic said all i need is the fan motor. The price is not that much different for the motor as it is for the whole unit. So i thought the way he explained it was the motor and the actual fan was to different units. he said the fan motor mounts separate of the fan. It looks like the replacement that you put in your moms car was all one piece. So im confused. If you have to pull the whole fan out wouldnt it be easier to just buy the whole unit instead having to pull the motor out of the fan assembly then have to put new motor back in the fan assembly
Unfortunately not, If I recall you have to pull the radiator completely out with the fan still attached to it. Somewhere I do have some video footage of me doing it that I was going to make into a video but I’m so far behind on editing it’s ridiculous.
@@jdw5889 If I recall right the GT’s don’t actually use a relay, they are PCM controlled. I think there are only like 3 terminals in the main plug on the fan so one is ground, One should be high speed and one should be low speed, you should be able to run some jumper wires off a battery and just test it that way. To be honest it’s not something I’ve messed with because I only ever had this one fan go bad and I just changed it, I could tell by spinning the blades on the fan that the motor was toast anyway so I didn’t bother testing anything.
@@billdarnell2206 In this case the high-speed portion of the fan had failed so the car was surging with the A/C on at idle because the A/C was over pressuring from not enough airflow. I have diagnosed them by turning them and feeling that they were gritty feeling though, they should turn smoothly with just a little bit of resistance.
@@CarswithNash thanks for the video. I just replaced my fan and it's working again. I have no idea what a mechanic would have charged for this, but it cost me about $60.
That’s a precisely measured amount, a job I recommend you hire a professional for (as I do). It’s really easy to cause damage to the air conditioning system if you put the wrong amount of oil or Freon in.
Roger Fleck I actually typically use Napa universal concentrate mixed with tap water which is what that car has in it, I just topped it off with the Prestone because it was convenient. Most coolants are HOAT based now and are perfectly fine in the PT’s.
MostlymoparIH The video I post tomorrow will be nothing but blue sky & sun shine, I promise...(-; My shop happens to be at nearly the lowest point on the property so there isn’t much that can be done. Someone already dug down 4ft deep & 4ft out from the wall & filled that with drain rock plus they dug a 1ft deep drainage ditch to the back... It all freezes up & by the time it thaws enough to drain the snow is gone. Plowing the snow does help a lot, I get my shop back a lot sooner.
