Hello I heard you can not go over 50 mph on this type of wheels that they were design for one time used only ,just curious i just both a my self a small trailer 2 wheel with this type of wheels ?
stillsir someone gave you some wrong info. We run these tires on all our flatbed trailers biggest is a heavy duty 25' flatbed. My guys run faster then I like them to but they pull our flatbeds at 75 MPH. Haven't had a blowout or a flat on our big trailer in over a year. We haul blocks and decks on trailer 3-4 times a week and travel up to 300 miles one way at times most runs are 150 or less one way. I will say this though. these tires need some special attention when you first put them on. make sure the rim locks are all evenly tightened down and each is the same depth when tightened. "Very Important" After you travel 20 miles retighten The lugs evenly then again at 50-70 miles retighten evenly. The other thing is to never run tires with less than 10% under max air pressure. I'm not going to tell you you won't never have a blow out or throw some rubber but if you keep tire tight and even on rim locks and not under inflated these tires can last you a very long time. make sure you get a good set of tires from the start. No Coopers look for one's that say Lowboys and more ply the better. facebook.com/rockymountaintransport
I just recently bought a car hauler trailer with 7000# axles and the same demountable wheel set up you have in the video. Today I wanted to buy brake parts and bearings from the trailer guy. He lied to me and tried to convince me that parts for my axles are impossible to find , and he tried to convince me to buy some 3500# axles that he has. Good thing I already did my research on my axles and I know I am the owner of some gems. I was wanting to convert my hubs to accept an 8 lug trailer wheel because I'm terrified of one of my mobil home wheels coming off. I have to tow the trailer from Michigan to California and back , so I want this to be a safe trip with absolutely no problems. After reading your comments , I feel confident now to roll on these old mobil home style wheels. I was told that you have to make sure they are mounted and adjusted straight so they don't tear apart the tires. Is there a method to making sure they are rolling true and straight ? And is it safe to put a little bit of Loctite on the rims mounting bolts ? Any and all advice is greatly appreciated. Thankful to have come across your video.
Hi Karl yes you heard right about making sure MH tires are on evenly. I pull mobile homes and all my flatbed trailers have these type of tires and rims. Heres what we do and we rarely have a problem besides the occasional flat now and then. This is very important though. The lug bolt goes thru the center of what is called a "rim lock" its square. There is a correct position the rim lock goes on. Some rim locks will say "wheel" and "rim" wheel goes toward the hub on axle and rim goes to the tire rim. Looking from the side there is a double bevel and a single bevel of the rim lock. If rim lock has no markings just remember the double bevel goes to the axle hub and the single bevel goes to the tire rim. When you install a tire the rim of tire has a raised nub to keep tire and rim from slipping around the axle hub (Such as If brakes are applied). Make sure not to install a lug bolt and rim lock over a rim nub. Look at the rim of tire and look for the old indentions made by the rim locks (Some rims you can see this clearly). If you can see the indentions line up your rim so your rim locks sit in these indentions. But make sure your rim locks dont rest on top of a rim nub. Also I dont like to have a rim lock and lug bolt sitting directly in front of the air fill valve stem. (Because it can get sheared off and mostly it is in the way of tightening that lug bolt). Now when you start tightening the lug bolts it is of major importance you tighten down evenly. Looking at the rim lock where it sits on the axle hub. Keep the depth the rim lock sits into the axle hub. Tighten a little at a time in a star pattern. Remember keep the depth even on each rim lock. When you are about 1/2 to full turn to being tight stop going in a star pattern and go one by one in consecutive order to lock the rim on. You can go around like this a couple times till each lug bolt is damn tight. You can really bare down on these lug bolts to tighten. Then drive down the road 20-50 miles and retighten and check your rim lock depth is equal all the way around. The next time you fuel retighten all the lugs again. From then on along your trip check the lugs for tight at lunch time or at mid day stop and again each night. Lugs can loosen but usually dont after 4-5 re-tightens. When you get to where you arent getting any rotation on the lug bolt you can retighten once a day. Try to not use any spray lub (WD-40 etc) on the lug bolts. The dry metal to metal helps hold lug bolt from backing out. Make sure you have plenty of grease in the bearings. I would suggest replacing bearing and seal with a proper repacking of the hub bearings. If along your trip your bearing start to run hot. (After the breakin period if you installed new bearing) you can pop the bearing cap off and fill cap about 1/2 with STP or Lucas Hub Lube to help cool bearings down. Tires; always try to get the tire size of 8 x 14.5. Avoid the tires marked 7 x 14.5. The 7's are not as durable as the 8's. Run the recommended tire pressure and check pressure every time you tighten light bolts and also every morning before you start out while tires are cool. Many time mobile home tire can seep out through the night. Take along a couple spares and if you need more you can always purchase a tire and rim from a mobile home dealer or transport company along the way. Just make sure they dont try to sell you junk tires and usually cost will be $25‐50 per tire. The factory tire and axle truck that buys axles and tires to take back to a manufacturing factory pays $20 a tire. That gives you some buyers leverage when you go to buy a tire on the road. Lol Last thing is look at your rim flange (the area the rim lock sits on rim of tire) make sure the rim has not been wallard flat all the way around the rim. Or concaved inward. This area should have a slight concave outward or flat around the rim. If its is concaved in ward get a new rim and watch that if you purchase a tire along the way. Good luck Happy Trails if you get in a bind let me know and I can get you some help wherever you might be. I know lots of mobile home companies around west of the Mississippi to the west coast.
@@mobilehomedoctor Would it be alright with you if we talked via phone ? I am ready to mount my wheels on but I have a few questions and would be better off asking via phone call.
@@mobilehomedoctor I bought new wheel clamps and as I was installing my wheels today , one of the rim clamps broke right in half. I ordered them off of eBay and not all of them were cosmetically the same. I only installed 2 wheels today and still have to do two more tomorrow. I'm not using an impact wrench. Just a wheel lug wrench. Have you ever seen a wheel clamp break in half upon tightening it? I want to use my old one's , but they are flowered out from the old bolts digging into them. Is it safe to put a flat washer between the bolt head and the rim clamp. Any and all advice is greatly appreciated.
@@karlchilders3127 sounds like they sold you used rim locks. You can use a washer but it's not the best way to get a good solid pressure. The rim locks are usually cast type metal and when you use a washer they are softer metal. Go to any mobile home dealership and they will have rim locks and lug bolts on their axle stock they removed off new homes. Get a few extra in case you break any along your trip. But it's not very common to break rim locks but yes it can happen. But you need to be able to tighten the lug bolt with about 3/4 of all the force you or an average size person can put out using a 4-way tire iron. Just make sure you tighten lugs and rim lock down evenly. Look at the depth the rim lock sits in the hub.
Matt, most rim locks have wheel and rim imprinted on the outfacing side. In this case the rim goes to tire rim and wheel goes toward the hub. (hub bearing assembly that the tire and rim mount to) If there is no imprint then notice the beveled part of rim lock. One bevel is greater angle than the other. One bevel has a longer shoe along the bottom edge and some on the side with less angle and the longer shoe there is a second bevel at a slight different angle.(don't get confused on the angle that is on outer edge and outlines 3 sides of rim lock and does not contact either rim or wheel) The 2 bevels I am referring to wedge in tight against the hub. The longer bevel wedges into the rim of the tire. When installing you want the greater bevel to be on the rim/tire side and the lesser or double bevel goes to the axle hub. Couple other pointers to help lessen tire problems is to place your rim locks into the old indentations on the rim and don't place locks in line of valve stem. Center valve stem in the middle of two lug bolts if possible. Make sure to locate the rim slip bump located on the rim around the area rim locks touch the rim. Don't get a rim lock on top of slip bump. Slip bump can be any where else just not under or in the way of rim lock. Last thing , after you tighten lugs pull trailer 1000 yards and retighten and torque. Then retighten and torque at 50, 100 and 500 miles to get rims and rim locks fully seated and securely tightened to hold tires on and minimize tire/rim coming off and being a death hazard. Hope this is clear enough. Thanks for your great question.facebook.com/rockymountaintransport .
The wheel is also known as the hub which is part of the main axle. Hub also is where the lug nuts or bolts thread onto. The rim is the part the rubber tire is mounted to. The rim and tire is one unit when someone says change a tire they will get a spare that is the rubber tire mounted to a rim and then aired up to pressure. Another way to tell is the wheel/hub side of rim lock has a double bevel. The tire/rim side of rim lock only has a single more angle bevel. The rim lock are not always marked with wheel and rim. Good luck be safe.
Most all your tire shops can order mobile home tires, or you can contact a mobile home dealership and they will usually sell you tires that came off a home they just sold and setup. Dealers will let you pick out your tires with rims and you can usually get tires that are practically brand new. Ive seen MH tires on Ebay as well. Make sure if you order a tire, the size needs to be a 14.5 rim size and the 8's (8.00 x 14.5) are the strongest tire. 7's are getting to be obsolete so stay away from the 7.00 x 14.5. When using mobile home tires for utility type trailers make sure you tighten the lug bolts down evenly. Check this by looking at the rim lock (square washer lug bolt goes through , that wedges between rim and axle hub) and reference the rim lock and compare depth of each and matching all the same. Every time you change a tire retighten after traveling 10 miles and again at 50 miles again making sure to keep rim locks the same. Then you'll be good to travel safely. you will want to check lugs before each trip same as your suppose to do before pulling any trailer.
maybe 15 min. messing with camera takes me off my routine a little. I have timed myself at just over 10 min. that's getting tools out and put back crawling into truck to head down the highway. I had a cop turn around to check on my. he had to go through a bridge so he had to go down the road about 5 miles before he could turn around. we weren't even out of the trucks when HP went by. By the time he got back to us we were lowering the house down picking up tools. HP couldn't believe we were already done and ready to roll on.
@@stevestacey9991 tire is on a mobile home I was trucking down the highway and tire blew. So I pulled over to change tire. I carry 8 spares on my toter truck. Check out my Facebook page and see us in action by going to... facebook.com/rockymountaintransport
Not this time. But I have had a few run-ins with those nails like that. Customer got this home ready to move. Had we prepped it for Transport, we would have removed the boards that had nails in them.
