You sir are the owner operators friend. If you did everything exactly right in the safest way possible, you're still going to get Flack from someone. Don't worry about the small stuff or the negative comments, keep doing what you're doing and giving us some great info. Thank you so much for your videos.
Loving these videos ! Never hurts to do any maintenance on your own rig! Huge savings versus having a shop do it! Brakes, Oil, Air, and suspension components add up when you DIY! Thanks for all that you do!
keep up the good work, have 3 of the exact trucks, we spend the weekends working on them, love your videos, me and my wife save so much money,thanks, God bless you.
G’day Gordon and greetings from Tasmania Australia 🇦🇺 improvisation is the mother of invention so bugger the experts if it works so be it, a lot of people like myself were self taught and it work like your brake job well done Gordon regards John
Gordon , years ago when most trucks had 5 spoke hubs , we put a block of wood at the fattest part of the side wall and rotated the tire to check for run out on spoke wheels , but the same principal holds true for bud wheels
Gordon I am from England I love your videos, if people don't like your videos why are they watching them. You are straight honest person trying to help people it is admirable. Thank You
Thank you Sir. I do have a variety of other videos besides big trucks, have a look at the playlists on my channel. I'm still new here and don't have time to record everything but the collection's growing.
Appreciate the videos man they're very informative they'll save me a lot of money throughout my career. I'm a new driver I really wish I could find a guy like you to take me under his wing al give me his knowledge which would be better than any amount of money in the world.
I've never actually pried on the slack adjuster to measure the travel. I've always just tightened em down until they stop and then backed em up a 1/4 to 1/2 a turn. I tap on the drum with the wrench. If it rings it's usually a little too loose, and if it has a dead thud it's too tight. I can tell by the sound. It's always worked well. Crazy as it might sound.
Hey man. If it works, it works. Don't listen to these guys. If they knew how to change brakes, then why are they watching your videos in the first place? I like to watch your vidoes to learn different ways and to improve my skills as a tech. Also, when I teach someone how to change brakes, i send them videos so they can learn when not at the shop and to learn other ways. Keep on rockin'!
I love the videos!! Keep 'em coming! And don't let those keyboard-warriors who don't even so much as own a single socket much less wrench on their own stuff get to you - unfortunately, the internet is full of trolls like that. If you ever get a chance could you do a quick video on all components of an air brake setup, the governor, dryer, tanks, etc.? There really aren't any quality videos that cover an entire system on an actual truck. Thanks again for the videos!
I would have to study up on the air brake system to do a video on that, I only know what I had to learn doing my own repairs which at best is maybe 1/4 enough to do a decent video. I could think about doing something for DIYers to do some maintenance and minor repairs, good idea!
You are correct Gordon, not alot of big truck repairs on video, which is how I found you in the first place. Keep doing what you're doing, there's alot of us are thankful for the videos you put up. Keep doing what you're doing, there's always going to be people that talk smack. Pay them no mind
Can I make a few suggestions Gordon? The rollers that go next to the blue spring should go in first. Hook the shoes together with the blue spring and pick them up together. Hang them without the rollers by the orange springs on. This will allow you to put the orange springs on without needing tools. Pry the top shoe up and put that roller in. Pry the bottom shoe down and put that roller in. That’s the way I do them at work and it makes it a lot easier. Keep up the good work bud. It seems like you help out a lot of guys when I read the comments on your videos.
You’re welcome. I was thinking that on this video it wouldn’t have worked because you mentioned how the pins were seized in. That’s usually not a problem for us because we usually get new pins and bushings in the hardware kit when we do a set of drums and shoes. If you ever get another brake job try one side my way and see what you think. To me, it seems a lot easier. But you’d have to try it out for yourself to know for sure
Hey Gordon ignore any negative comments from jealous trolls you make a great job and just like the saying " there's more than one way to skin a cat " you get the job done and do it well, and I appreciate your videos as I have an old western star with a 12.7L series 60 in it also and your videos including this are very useful to me as I can't afford to pay expensive mechanics to do all the work that I can do myself. Thanks again and keep up the great work, I subscribed to your channel a while ago and enjoy your efforts & time in sharing your knowledge. Cheers mate, Tim from Down under in New Zealand
The tia training class said anti seize reduces the clamping force when you're torquing the nuts. I see trucks with it on all the time but I wouldnt recommend using it. Just use a little 30 weight oil for the nuts and studs.
great job ! I wonder if there is a spring tool you could get to make it a little easier ? Not that you have ti have it just that it saves you some time and knuckels . I wasn't ever shown how to check the distance on the s cam thanks for showing me !
Thanks Cody, I think there some special tools for that but once every 2 or 3 years, it's not worth it if it's not hard to do it without it, I do have all those brake tools for cars though.
They don't seem too bad to change other than everything being heavy, I find these interesting since I have zero experience working on that type vehicle.
What make of front axle was that? I used to work in a shop that made hundreds of thousands of different sized King Pins and Brake pins, such as the roller you had in your hand. Most went to Rockwell, now called Meritor. Also we produced for Eaton.
How I take them off if you put your screw driver or prybar inside of the small springs you have hit it down with a hammer and the little springs just fly off
So many ways.... pop the front springs after backing off with a pointed bar.hang springs and rollers stretch shorties and with a chain and point bar roll ot over. Easy peasy
Are the adjusters for the brakes self adjusters. If so can’t you push the washer in that’s behind the adjustment nut and back the cams off. With out the sound of it killing the adjusters.
Forget about the internet trolls that have nothing better to do in the little less interesting lives than to criticized someone trying to teach others how to do simple repairs on their heavy vehicles thanks.
I don't service this guys truck, but on mine, I would guess if it were a hand pump grease gun about 3 or so pumps. My grease gun is a bigger shop size one on wheels that uses air.
It seems to me that some of the Keyboard Warriors don't know Jack or where Jack was last seen. Gordon, you do your work the way you do and let them get over it.
I k ow it’s an old video, but it’s easier to take the two smaller springs off first. Get a pry bar and a hammer. Put it on the smaller springs and hammer between the spring and the shoe to get it off. Then you can just pull/unfold the shoes toward the big spring. Putting them on is whatever is easiest for you. I’ve seen a few different ways.
Hello Gordon another good video.I have a question regarding the front wheel bearings,I had the inner one spin on me n wear the spindle abit, Freightliner wants $1300 for a new one plus king pin on top, do you have any tricks to repair a spindle without replacing it?
I can't be sure without seeing your spindle but you probably don't need to change the spindle at all, the inner race of the bearing should not spin on the spindle, that's what burned it up in the 1st place, only the rollers should roll on the inner race without the race moving at all. Put a new or different bearing on the shaft and see if it can rock from side to side noticeably, if hardly any movement can be seen or felt when twisting it left and right on the bad spot then your good to go, just replace the bearing, race and seal and you will be fine. Let me know how it goes.
Torque spex on the lugs are important for cars also... Aside from not being able to change a flat, too much can warp a rotor... which, to my surprise, magically fixed itself when I tightened it properly. Will big trucks use disk brakes eventually?
You're right, 60 ft. lbs. on big cars and I don't know on the little cars, 45 should be good, that's what it would be on 7/16 bolts. About disk brakes on trucks, you're late, I don't know when they came out but there are air disk brakes already.
Looks just like mine. Won't the pressure from the air brake (parking brake) prevent you from backing off the shoes? Feels unsafe working under there with just jack stands and chocks.
Easier to pop those springs out at 5:40 on the j part put a flat head on the inside of the brake pad and pry up on it itlll pop out do that to both sides get the pry bar like you did on the other side and flip them over pads will come out way faster
If it has sealed bearings I don't have a video on it, if it's the one with the little oil plug in the middle, here's a video on that, part 1 has removal ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-XNbKKYDi-Ag.html and part 4 has reinstall ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-1uUxF70j_P0.html if you have the sealed bearings it has a big hex nut cap in the middle. Let me know if that's what you have.
Gordon Robertson. Thanks buddy in the end, I ended up buying a 10 ton extractor to remove the hub, ended up using my big impact gun to tighten up the extractor, after 15 mins of impacting it finally popped off like a rocket 😂
Hello there, I Like your style. I am in central america, planning to get my first tractor, I already do a lot of fixing, and getting lots of your experience, very useful when on the road with not much much equipment to get things fixed, but I wonder, if some body asks me to change those breaks, how much is the rate to do that job, I really have no idea on how to put a price on hand of work matters. Thanks for reading.
I can only say that my rate varies from job to job depending on the clients ability to pay, and the need of the job (whether it is necessary to drive the truck, car or whatever it is) cosmetics or convenience (body and paint or power inverters etc.) are not so important. And then the economy in Central America is so different from here in the States that the rates needed here would be 2 or 3 times higher than where you are. My average rate would be somewhere around $50 Dollars an hour so the brake job would be $ 50. plus parts.
Jajaja they can kiss ur ass for flack they give you i find them usefull i do a eeekley inspection on my truck & when came time to fix my brake i watch you video iam happy i did my own seal thx to you mr robertson
