Its so easy and quick to do and an oil change is the best maintenance for a long living engine. You are spot on save us all a few quid ( or euros) DIY.
2 days ago I had valves set to 0.20 outlet and 0.09 inlet. Oil with filter 1.6 liters. That was about 2 hours including 2 coffees. Thank you and always have a good trip.👍🖖
Hay man i have been planning on buying my first bike and i really like the idea of fixing my own bike but i was afraid of doing it but its nice that a person like you who shows us how to do stuff i really appreciate your work
Excellent video Ian, cheers from Country NSW Australia.. enjoying your Channel. Just one thing when using torque wrenches, is to ensure the pressure is applied only from the hand grip to avoid + or - changes to set torque settings. Love your work.. Phil
Another very informative video Ian, i also watch a bloke called warro from Australia, he's had about 30 Royal enfield bike's mostly 500s,he's very good, he recommended putting earth magnets on tthe filter and sump nuts, I'm going to give it a try next oil change 🇬🇧🏍👍🙂
Great content as usual. I service my Himy myself and I'm well acquainted with doing so, but I would still like to read your thoughts on something. Sorry it's a long story but this might be useful info for others. Turns out my manual, just as yours calls for 1.6 liters when changing the oil and filter, and that's what I used to do. However, when my bike had done about 12500 km, the stator failed, and the battery light came on, luckily I was able to crawl to an authorized service centre and they replaced the stator under warranty. When I inquired why this would happen on a bike with just 12k on the clock they asked me how much oil I put on the engine, to which I replied "what the manual calls for, 1.6 liters", and they replied, there you go, your stator overheated due to lack of lubrication and burnt out. They then showed me an email they had received directly from Royal Enfield headquarters calling for 2 liters when changing oil and filter to prevent damage to the stator, and they actually had a chart with that info on their walls. I've also seen the 2 liter value on some of my mate's manuals, granted those are older models (2017 and 2018, mine is 2021 euro 4). In any case, I've been reluctantly filling in 1.9 liters on my oil changes since then, the bike is now north of 49 thousand km on the clock, and the stator never failed again. Do you think those 300 extra ml may cause other damage although they do seem to be saving the stator?
@@LeandroArango There is always a difference in what is stated in the manual and what you need to put in the engine because when you drain the engine oil there is always a certain amount still sitting in the engine IE cylinder head ect. When I do an oil and filter change I only go by what I can see in the sight glass in the side of the right hand casing. I always fill it just above the full mark, only just though . I can't see having to put extra oil in the engine to have to keep the stator cooler be cause most Himalayan engines use a bit of oil and if this was the case every time the oil level was ABIT below fully full the stator would fail there would be hundreds of failures and the internet would be alive with complaints. If there was a problem with low oil in the engine the first thing that would fail would be the cam shaft as it is the highest point in the engine. Oil change can be between 1.6 & 2.0 litres but use the sight glass to check just as you do before you go out for a ride and you can't go wrong. The oil is splashing around in the lower part of the engine anyway even on low oil capacity so the stator will still have oil running around it. If the stator failed it's because of a faulty stator it happens.
@@iantoy7778 Thank you for the thorough answer. I also figured it was odd for them to call for that much over what's stated in the manual, which is why I have been doing it reluctantly, and just as you said, I've been using the glass sight instead, with the bike on the center stand on a leveled surface. I always fill it to about 3 mm over the full mark after running the engine for a minute or so, then let it come down for about 3 minutes and top up to about 3 mm above full mark again if needed. It always turns out to be about 1.8 to 1.9 liters in total. In any case, I've become overly watchful of the oil level since I had that failure, which I didn't before (bad, I know). Wish you many more healthy riding years ahead.
The service manager from the dealer I just purchased my Scram 411 told me that services cost around $425.00 USD each. I asked if that was to also check valves or just oil and she said they were all around that price. It took everything I had to contain my laughter. Changing the oil, checking and adjusting the chain takes less the an hour. The valves should take an experienced dealer mechanic less than an hour as well. Needless to say I will be doing my own maintenance and plan to never see the inside of the dealership again unless there is a large warranty issue.
Hi Ian, great video as usual. One suggestion; soak your new filter in clean engine oil for five minutes before installation. Gets up to full pressure almost instantly after initial start up😊.
The wife usually buys them for me off eBay. She searches through the Indian sellers who have the genuine parts for the cheapest. I have got 6 oil filters enroute for 22 euros plus shipping. In total they work out about 5.50 euros each. My local dealership wanted 18 euros for one filter.
Quick question: if in Bulgaria you get temperatures of 40 C, (that is 104 Fahrenheit here in the U.S.) is the oil hot enough to burn fingers when you drain it? I work bare-handed also and always have. My INT650 during our 30 C (86 F) summers runs at 75-80 C (172-ish F) and is barely hot compared to my Triumphs. On the forum today a chap said that oil should normally be around 120 C....none of my vehicles operate at 230 F. I use an extension with 13mm socket to pull the drain plug to keep fingers away from the oil. Really do enjoy your videos and hope to hear an answer about oil temps on the Himi
Obviously it runs hot in the summer as it's an air cooled engine but even water cooled engines run hot here in the summers. You only need to get the engine warm to change the oil not boiling point or above. To be honest I have never checked the actual temperature of the oil on a really hot day. If you were to change the oil after a long ride then yes I would think it will burn your hands but I wouldn't do that.
@@iantoy7778 makes good sense and thanks for the reply. You are correct about liquid cooled bikes running hot, my Speed Twin 1200cc is the hottest running of my 3 Triumphs, the air/oil-cooled ones actually run a tad cooler like my Royal Enfield does.
A good operating temperature is between 80 and 110 degrees, from 120 degrees it becomes a bit critical, at about 130 degrees you should take your hand off the gas
@@felixklages1893 most sensible reply I have seen on here, even running 11:1 compression and larger 83.5mm pistons my Interceptor rarely reaches 95 (203 Fahrenheit) and that is on the hottest days in Virginia; it runs 80-85 C Spring and Fall.
quick question, I was always told to smear the gasket using my finger with clean oil before fitting, is this not required on this type of gasket? Thankyou for the video very imformative 🤔
