Royal Enfield Himalayan | DIY | Engine oil | Oil Filter change | Bash plate removal 

Hahaha, very kind words mate, I am just sharing little bit I know to stay out of service center 😉

Thanks mate really glad you have found these useful, cheers🙂

Thanks mate really appreciate it:)

Older mechanics abide by this technique, maybe more suited for mineral oils :) Does seem to get a fair idea on synthetic ones too though.

Thanks mate :). It is serving the intended purpose quite well. Its going through a slowdown right now because of pandemic but I am sure thing will pace up soon ;) And thanks for info on foot pegs, they can certainly come in handy. cheers :)

Hahaha thanks mate. My pleasure Cheers :)

Thanks mate. Glad to be of assistance:) Namaste :)

Thanks mate, simple machine and simple fixes, glad you found these useful. Cheers from India🙂

Thanks a ton mate, indeed not selling it yet so more vids will keep pouring in as I accumulate more miles ;) cheers :)

Truly appreciated mate, thanks :) Cheers :)

Thanks mate :), will be resuming those shortly, cheers :)

My pleasure mate. Have a good one Cheers :)

Me too...

hahaha thanks mate, will incorporate that bit of info with example in one of the vids, cheers

Thanks mate, I am glad you found this useful. The bars are from Royal Enfield Himalayan accessory catalog. Easily bend on falling but do a decent job of keeping engine protected. Have a good one, cheers

@@leuheanrede Thanks, might look at some other versions!

Greetings mate, thanks I am glad you found these vids useful. Happy DIYing🙂

Thanks mate :) ride on indeed, harder, stronger and safer is the idea, cheers ;)

Thanks mate, will try that next time I change the oil to check and will update. Cheers

Thanks mate, I am glad you found this useful, Cheers :)

Thanks for your kind words mate 🙂

Hey mate, 2.5 was ok for bs3 but if you own bs4, draining the excess would be sincerely recommended. Cheers🙂

:D , ya, a lot ob background noise. Sorry about that,. Cheers :)

Thanks mate, I appreciate it :) as for topping up, there are 2 marks in the glass window, just make sure when bike is in center stand the oil level is above the lower mark on that glass window. close to upper mark is always good but never ride it at or below the lower mark, Cheers :)

Indeed mate. 1.6 ltrs gets the job done. But i do keep an eye on that window mark and keep topping up when required ;)

Thanks mate, I hopes it makes the DIY simpler, Cheers :)

Thanks. Very true. But removing bash plate gives the opportunity to clean it and lower part of crank case thats hard to access other wise, every time I change oil. Cheers :)

Gotcha! Lots of good info, thanks for sharing. We love our Himalayans. 😁

Thank you. :) yes indeed, I do find Himalayan remarkable as machines to live with and enjoy the sheer simplicity of riding pleasure. Quite remarkable:D

Thanks mate, I am glad you found the vid useful :) and as for the gasket, no we dont have to change it every time. For example, I changed mine at around 25000 kms when it gave up and leaking oil. Hard to guess but somewhere between 15000 to 20000 kms interval could be a good point to change. cheers

Hmm, I believe what he meant to say was that it should not be measured on side stand. As for checking it on center stand or both tyres touching the ground, I have checked and can confirm, there is no noticable difference Cheers:)

@@leuheanrede good to know!

Hey mate Yes it will. But before I say anything else please watch ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ekHPqQKgVKc.html Just first 3 minutes will do as I explain how service center reacted when I told them that I am servicing the bike at home( since day one) I service all my bikes at home from day one. Its a simple job. I dont trust and like the idea of another person working on my bike. My belief is, no manufactutrer lets the bike roll out of factory without proper testing and quality check, there are a few misses but that is manageable. They do learn and work to sort the issue out eventually.Same in case of Himalayan as we all know about BS3 stories ;) 10000+ kms in 4 months and a Spiti ride later I am even more confident that this is a well tested/quality checked bike. Here are my 2 cents, its a reliable bike, timely/periodic maintenance will see longs miles on this bike. You ride it well and do what is needed when it is needed, and it would be long before the electricals like pump, FI, ECU start failing, but by that time you would be out of warranty period any ways :D Ride hard and ride safe Cheers :) P.S : Few things to remember though. I stick with changing oil every 5000 kms irrespective of what the manufactures recommend Second, periodic engine oil level check up and top up if required within those 5000 kms is critical. Keep it close to top mark in the oil level window. Best practice is to check every 2-300 kms while the bike has been resting on center stand after stopping on leveled ground, say for about 5 mins. Third and most critical, Motul 300 V is infamous for burning. Havent noticed it on Himalayan though. but I still always keep an eye out on the oil level window and top up when the oil level dips below the top mark.

@@leuheanrede great man! Even I don't trust service persons. If I tell some problem they try to dismiss it. And i dont think they follow all the procedures they are suppose to do in every service. So you got all the tools? Even to see shock absorber oil. And taper valve adjustment tool. Eagrly waiting for your next service videos.

Not exactly all the tools, but I have most to get the job done :) and yes, soon will be doing the shock oil replacement and valve adjustment too Cheers :)

@@leuheanrede Great man, waiting for those videos!

Motul is what the dealer sells.. it's good oil.

Hey mate, naah, done 100 of 1000 of kms without ever using them and luckily without trouble. If liqui moly was sponsoring me, of course I would have a different opinion ;) I hope you get my point ☺ cheers

@@leuheanrede yea I get it 😂✌️ I thought that too , good oil and changing at regular intervals should keep the internals pretty clean. 5k is the limit for me , never crossed it , most of times I did it around 4500 .. Idk why RE says 10k.

Thanks mate :) And i think you are referring to EVAP canister unit, started coming from BS 4 model onwards. Cheers

May he rest in peace. Its tough. Still hoping that vaccine comes soon so we can put an end to this. As for oil level. Its a confusing one. 1600 to 1800 is ok. That would show slightly above max mark on glass window. I am aware of some cases where service centers are filling in 2 lts. My observation is that as long as I can see some free space at the top of the glass like 3mm, all is good

naah mate, not that i am aware of. there is K&N option but too expensive to be honest

Thanks Mate :) Could be and its just a guess, maybe valve clearence or tappet adjustment is required. Will post a DIY on that soon. Cheers:)

@@leuheanrede waiting

Hey mate, i stringently follow 5000 to 6000 kms changing interval. And also checking the oil level and topping up every 700-1000kms. Cheers :)

@@leuheanrede thanks...

Hey mae, thats the Evap unit, cheers :)

Yup, you mean the one on the bottom right? Yes that is a tricky one. I have a kingtony tool kit, where I can use just the handle and the 8 mm bit, alternatively the t spanner with bending arm can get the job done too ;) Stay safe mate, cheers

@@leuheanrede great. Thanks brother. Also, out of curiosity, what does your channel name man and how do I pronounce it?

Just checked this. A bit late. Well. Leuhe Anrede. Hope that makes sense:)

@@leuheanredehaha, not a problem. And is that a name of sorts?

🙂

Hey mate. All i could find was K&N one. Have not come across any other compatible option

Thanks mate Cheers :)

There is no need to remove it, but just like washing/cleaning it every time I change oil. But if you choose to not remove it please place some cardboard under the oil filter cover and drain bolt as while draining, some oil will trickle onto the plate. Cheers :)

I think 2 lts might be pushing it, but seriously i shouldnt comment on it :) All engine oils are good if changed periodically and topped up when required, But yes have been hearing a lot of good thing about Liqui Moly, yet to try it though, will love to try it in future, cheers :)

Hey mate Done in a separate vid, cheers :) Valve Clearance Tappet Clearance | .08 to .10 mm intake | .23 to .25 Exhaust ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-OLi-INbjlTM.html Bringing the Piston to Compression Stroke | Top Dead Center TDC | Part 1 ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-_lAmh1xp45o.html

Hey mate Its from a company called Kingtony, got it from amazon. 5 years on and still holding strong. Cheers :)

leuheanrede thanks

Thanks mate, I know you are the silent one, but I am glad for your feedback :D Cheers :)

To be honest, any engine oil is good as long as we keep checking level and keep topping up when required. And also keep changing periodically. I have only used 300v thus far with no complaints. Change interval i follow is 5000-6000 kms, with regular top ups as required. Cheers :)

Hey mate. Any brand will do, I personally like using motul 300v 15w50. Cheers :)

@@leuheanrede do you periodically use this oil? Felt any betterment after changing from stock oil? How much kms you get with this oil?

@@leuheanrede wish you all the best from kerala

@@rayan_sahad hey mate, I just ran it in stock oil for like 700 ish kms, bike is 27000 kms now and since then it's running on 300v 15w50.. Its an overkill to be honest but I just love this oil. Have been using it on r15 v2 and rc390 for 50000 + kms. One thing though, it does evaporate a lot in comparison with other oils that I use in rest of the bikes, so need to keep and eye out for regular top ups. I mean, say in 5000 change interval I follow, it requires 500 to 700 ml of top up. For example on r15 v3 I use yamalube and in that 3000 change interval it only uses about 200 ml. Smoothness levels are no doubtedly different on 300 v, engine does rev freer. Give it a shot but do keep topping up as and when needed else the engine will be tossed. So basically buy 3 ltrs. 1.6 to 1.8 will go into chamber, rest 5 to 7 will be consumed over the 5000 change interval. Cheers

@@leuheanrede so you don't have to change complete oil on 5000 km in himalayan running in 300v After 5000 km i just need to topup 300v And at 10000 km interval complete oil change , all the oil drained and new 300v must be poured in Will that be okay. I mean with 300v i can run about 5000km and with topup again 5000 km and after that i can change the complete oil ? Will that works fine Or i need to change the complete 300v oil every 5000km period

🙂

Hey Not sure what you mean by that. But just to elaborate, it is clean enough as I adhere to changing oil at every 5000 kms, I havent seen any dirt or muck accumulation there. It is always spick and span. Were you referring to solvents that are used to clean the engine ? Cheers :)