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I use 5w 30 GF-6A oil in my T1N Sprinter. So far, so good, but I wonder, if I should use a ZDDP additive, since it's a 2004 Diesel? It's Rotella, but I heard, that the newer formulations don't have enough zinc/phosphorus in them for older, but not that old, diesel engines?
Nice job explaining the ILSAC GF-6 A and B oils. I was directly involved with the SAE on establishing the new 16, 12, 8 viscosity grades. I was also involved with the API Work Group/Task Force in developing the oil performance specs. I’ve been retired now 2 yrs so happy to see these new products finally on the retail shelves. It takes years to work with the OEMs, the testing labs, the additive companies, the oil marketers and the API to bring these new performance upgrades to the consumers.
Self confessed non car guy here, and that’s why I’m watching these videos everyday. Thank you for all the great info. Just bought a used 2011 Tundra and am always looking for tips to keep it around.
Just do regular oil changes and regular maintenance, I just turned 200,000 miles on my 4 cylinder automatic 2wd 2000 Toyota Tacoma pickup today, and it runs awesome.
I bought Toyota for about 20 years, only one major engine problem that happened at 2 years old, other than that it was just regular maintenance and no issues
Scotty, I'm 70, I've done most of my own repairs, but you just taught me something new. I've been using Mobile 1 full synthetic on my 2011 Tacoma oil changes and never looked at anything but the weight. That's why I subscribed, you're always showing me new stuff. Thanks Scotty.
Best video yet. I see people everyday stop by the shop and say I had my engine flushed at the oil change shop and now my oil light is on. Lots of plugged pick up screens.
Scotty provides useful, even necessary, automotive expertise which took me 68 years to acquire in “the school of life”. I enjoy learning how to maintain my cars & which cars & products to buy - at Scotty Kilmer’s suggestion. Scotty, you are a blessing:) May you live to 120 in good health:) LTC Joram Aris (Ret.)
Hey Scotty my respected sir,is it a good idea to turn a 2007 Honda fit's body into off road...with all that big tires, without making changes to the engine
One thing I can say about "Discount Tire Co." They change tires right. I have watched them use a wire brush on my rims, which are alloy. and use tire seal on the tires and rims. Most importantly, they properly torque the nuts with a torque wrench. They use the long one that clicks and I have never had a problem!
I'm a fan. I trust them. One time I blew a tire on the highway. Went to two places at the intersection and they couldn't fix it. There was a Discount Tire there but it was closed. I chained the trailer to a light post there and left a note on their website. When I called in the morning it was already done.
actually the reverse... if the part doesn't work right, is simple/cheaper for you to replace with OEM or something. Bring to a shop and you better not loose $$$ labor on it.
Makes my heart happy to see Scotty holding that Valvoline oil container along with the WalMart Syntech one. No Royal Purple or Amsoil or Mobil 1 oil snobbishness here.
@@snaxgalore5764 Cost more than Valvoline or Syntech. No noticeable difference with respect to cost versus actual performance in your engine. Also, Valvoline will enroll your vehicle in a program which guarantees your engine up to 300,000 miles if you use their synthetic oil. Check it out.
@@PedroGarcia-zf8zg Sounds like you are spending quite a bit of money on your oil changes. I have my van enrolled in Valvoline's engine guarantee program. Changing oil and filter every 4000 miles. Valvoline guarantees my engine for 300,000 miles or 10 years, which ever comes first. With filter and 5W20 synthetic, each oil change costs me ~$30. Use plain old WalMart SuperTech filter. Valvoline doesn't care what filter I use just so long as it fits my vehicle.
@@prestonwhite5613 well my car is 11 years old and never had a check engine light or anything like that. I like to stay on top of the maintenance for i dont have to go threw expensive repairs later on.
@@429thunderjet2 When the factory warranty expired I switched to Amsoil's once-a-year oil change schedule with their EA filters. The car is nearly 16, the engine runs perfectly and I have saved hundreds of dollars in excess maintenance costs.
Thanks to Scotty I went from knowing nothing about cars a year ago to changing my breaks myself! Buying all the tools to do it still saved me over $500 as opposed to a garage!
Been wrenching for 40yrs, never thought I'd see a 0w-16 oil. Growing up we ran 15w-40 fleet oil in everything we built and drove. Father's trucking co. had it in bulk, and never had an issue.
I have also tire pressure problems ever since I bought my Chevrolet Silverado 1500 LTZ 4WD Crew Cab Short Bed truck. I don't know if it is the crappy Goodyear Wrangler tires or the wheels. I had no idea that corrosion was a problem with alloy wheels until you video. Thank you for the information. When I have to have my tires replaced, I will make sure the tire shop cleans the inside bead of all the wheels before mounting the tires which I probably go with BF Goodrich.
In Belgium, I saw an old small 4 cylinder car that was burning oil. The mechanic used engine flush and it cleaned the piston rings enough to allow them to turn freely again and the engine stopped burning oil. He said the rings were seized up from fouling and were dragging oil up the cylinders. He ran the engine flush about twice as long as recommended and revved the engine up during the flush. It was amazing to see it really work.
i just got a 2010 corolla with 60k miles for my mom, but I've had 3 previous generations also. my only complaint is an issue on cold starts involving the vvt gears I believe. From what i understand, if i fix it it will likely come back. we live in Alaska but it does much better in the snow than my previous corollas. Thanks for the toyota influence, sir. keep it up!
I foolishly went to a chain oil change place, then watched me some Scotty Kilmer....now I'm going to change my own oil with only the good stuff from now on ;)
Thank you, Scotty. I'm using Castrol Synthetic Blend and OEM Toyota filters from Wal-Mart. Just got my first Toyota, a 2001 Lexus ES 300 with 109,000 miles on it. Love it.
My car calls for 0W20, but the dealer put 5W30 in it. I usually change the oil myself, but was sick and wasn't up to doing it. Definitely will from now on!
There is a Toyota master tech on RU-vid who addressed the oil burning issue in some Toyotas. It seems they went to low drag piston rings and when people use the 10,000 mile oil change interval when they should not - that is for people putting on highway miles - when they should be changing oil at, say, 5000 miles because they drive short distances in the city with a lot of stopping and starting, these low drag piston rings get crudded up. So the techs often attempt to chemically de-crud the rings as a more or less last resort. Scotty, you are correct not to overdo the flush as that master tech gave the exact same warning although at times he does use professional grade flushing agents when necessary. Since an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure, it is far better to make sure the oil is changed in a timely way. And that tech said Toyota engines cannot be bored out to use oversized pistons and rings as was common practice when I did that work. I'm as old as Scotty and my father taught me "back in the day." Don't play games with your engine - change the oil and use the recommended stuff. Some people might take years to get even 5,000 miles on their oil. Then I'd change it based on time - not mileage.
I used to be an assistant manager at a quick lube shop. We actually use to buy our oil at Wal-Mart because we could purchase it cheaper than from the bulk supplier. I use to go in and clean the shelves of the name brand oils and our local Wal-Mart loved it even though we were their competitor in town for their oil change business.
Thanks Scotty , I really appreciate all the important information you provide , 50 yrs mechanic and I check Scotty for new technical info Barry in Virginia
Hey Scotty. I own a 2010 Honda Accord. I bought It last year. It currently has 68k miles. I already changed all the fluids and I am using Pennzoil Platinum Synthetic Oil and I change It every 4K miles. Any other recommendations? I want to keep this car for a long time atleast 10years. Please help
WoW...that's good...You need to get out and drive it more!....I also have a 2010 Honda Accord Tourer with 164,000 on the clock, its as fast and good as new....UK Motoring...
Just follow the recommended schedule which will be in the owner's manual and use the recommended engine oil grade/viscosity. Buy whatever brand you want as long as it meets whatever the manufacturer requires.
I just got a great education on Oil, many things I already knew, and I just learned a few new things. I think the 0w-20 is what the dealerships always use when I take my cars in for oil changes, and they always run great on it.
"These SOB's," < and that is putting it nicely! Too bad that some of these quick repair car shops employ people that just don't care. It really is a matter of life and death!
@Sigkim It's just a rare circumstance that happens every couple of decades that creates a "perfect storm" of sorts. Same thing with big floods that occur every 7-10 years here. It's not a sign of times or anything.
What you said about gasoline is correct. It is regulated by several groups. Most gasoline except for remote locations is transported by pipeline. You don't know who's gasoline you are buying. Walmart had a deal with the refinery Murphy Oil. I do not know where Costco gets their gasoline but they must buy it on the spot market.
Scotty - love your videos - I make my daughters watch them - doesn’t do any good - they still forget to change their car’s oil - so I do it … thanks again - best wishes 👍
I own a Dodge, everytime I hear even the smallest rattle or I hear something that don't seem right a tiny Scotty appears on my shoulder and says "I told you not to buy this piece of junk"
Toyota holds it's value so well it's hard to find one in good condition that's affordable where a dodge you can find a well maintained one more affordable easier
Being someone that works at a "discount" tire shop, it's not necessarily us being idiots and not cleaning rims, most of the time its coming from management or customers being in too much of a rush to have things done properly. That being said, if the work load is low or I see an excessive amount of corrosion I still try and buff them clean. Whether it's aluminum or steel.
Thanks for the timing of this video Scotty !!! Coming in and out of winter is when id do all of the oil changes. I have 9 Sons and 2 Daughters. 8 of these Young'ns drive now , so they all come over (not at once, lol) for their regular maintenance. I've watched ya for years and I have to say; If we were neighbors, we would be hanging out at each others garages like cousins : ) ... Looking forward to Grabbing GF6-A for the first time for my vehicles in another week or so. Just wanted to hear a word from someone that knows more than I ever will about cars (and Old Man Bill at my local parts store is fixin to retire at 72)... So yours is about the only other endorsement that's as Good as Gold in my book : ) Thanks Again and Be Well !!!
For any normal vehicle in the rust belt, all you really need to do is make sure the oil and filter are changed on a regular schedule and you use an oil filter and oil that meet or exceed the manufacturer's requirements. For most vehicles that will be any modern oil of the correct grade and spec. You don't gain much if anything by spending a ton of money on oil as your engine will likely outlast your vehicle if you live anywhere that uses salt or brine on the roads in the winter.
Pennzoil 5w-30 full synthetic in my 2014 F-150 XLT has been running great. Even the Syn blend works very well here in NC. Still change the oil every 5k...regardless.
Used to work on a gasoline tanker taking gas from Texas City, TX to Port Everglades, FL. We were hauling for AMOCO. More than once the load would be split. One part to go to some other company the balance to AMOCO. The only one that didn't was the clear gas they had at the time.
Pointless and on some engines you can’t prefill because they are installed upside down. The filter fills up as soon as you start the engine. Just adjust the oil volume, usually manual states how much the filter takes.
@@Asto508 haven't ran in to an upside down filter, but a horizontal filter you can, just do it fast, won't make more of a mess that you removing the old filter already did.
Scotty, maybe you could mention to people this new oil was developed to prevent Low Speed Pre Ignition in the newer engines using GDI. and GDI with turbo. Toyota got around the LSPI problem by using port fuel injection at low speeds and GDI at higher speeds.Our 2019 Camry has a 2.5l engine with both types of fuel injection. The new oil does not resolve the issue of crud building up on the outside of valves. Port fuel injection helps keep them clean. A definite drawback to GDI only engines.
I've used that on my Sentra the whole time I owned it. Never had a problem and ran like a dream. Plus it only took 3 quarts so oil and filter costed me about $14
I am sending more and more people to your channel for the great advice. And OW-20 is what my 2017 Toyota takes. I hope to have it for the next 280,000 miles.
@@dgunearthed7859 the cheapest crap he can find! It blows my mind that people will spend $tens of $thousands on a vehicle, then worry about spending a few bucks on oil!
Always learn something by listening to Scotty. Decided to try Kirkland synthetic 5W-30 for my '81 Toyota Solara. We will see how that goes. Saw another oil engineer explain that the new synthetics have additives to help older engines with leaking seals. Like I said, we will see how that goes.
Scotty I love your advice most mechanics won't explain or give good advice or for that matter correct advice love you taking time to explain the do's and fonts when u most likely have family to look after, appreciate taking time out to help others
I only used synthetic oil in one vehicle and went back to regular oils in my vehicles until today. They are doing a great job and I intend to keep using them and won't be buying a new vehicle due to my age and the conditions of my current vehicles.
Speaking of aluminum alloy corrosion on tire beads, mine became such an issue I went ahead and purchased steel rims. Not as pretty, but I never had another bead seal failure.