I came to the same conclusions during my test of MR-FIX9H. Having said that, the version I used gave some fantastic results. I've only tested as far as 1.5 months. It is thin but very effective still. Even tested on a vehicle with no clear coat with the same results. I'd like to test with a paint gauge before and after. Loved the video, thanks for your hard work.
Applied this product over 8mths ago. Vehicle does a lot of country miles so 2 washes a week isn’t out of the ordinary. Water still sheets off perfectly and no fine scratches visible on the paintwork (black). Have absolutely no hesitation in recommending this product.
@@gathonar if I want to keep the money flowing I would recomend it and get you to buy it because the commision revenue would be huge. at worse Id tell you it was no good and point you towards another product, I didnt do either. Its never in a you tubers interest to talk about a popular product that everyone is buying and not recomend it. but your shit for brains wont understand why.
@@ForensicDetailing What product would you recommend then? First time doing a ceramic coating and definitely want something that will last the 6-8 months and be worth the money.
I really appreciate the time you took to make this video. You were a little redundant and it did make it a bit drug on, but you’re probably the only helpful video on the “eBay” ceramic coatings. I use the cheap product today but as I was skeptical I only put it on my fuel door on my GTI. That was my test spot.
The pricing difference between the products is insane...and at 10% of the original costs...and the minor difference between the products it's hard not to buy the less expensive product....
I’ve used mr fix on my 2011 328i almost a year ago, and the car still looks amazing, water still beads fine... even rain washes the dust on it away, also, morning dew beads up nicely, it’s picture worthy
@@Av987 product is not a filler. Requires polishing unless already in the condition you'd like it to stay. A filler product like you are asking would be iconrocklear. Thick polyurethane clear coating.
I have used Cquartz UK with great results. But wanted to try this stuff but was hesitant to use it on a car. I used it on my Father's and my own snowblower. It works great at keeping wet snow from clogging up the auger and in the chute. It also helps with snow sticking to the machine which translates into less water on the garage floor when your are finished and the snow on the machine melts.
Perfect timing! Just received few bottles of 9H Mr.Fix and not tested yet. I was so curious about this kind of cheap ceramic coating. Your review will be very interesting for sure! I'm watching now :D
I got a few bottles myself. My paint is in horrible condition and honestly needs to be repainted, but i think this would help give it SOME protection. If/when i get my truck repainted (1995 f150), or when i get a newer vehicle, i will get it applied professionally. Thankfully there are good folks who put good reviews like these out there to help people like me to better understand what these products are capable of, on a professional standpoint
i used it last year. i have been loving it since then. it worked for i would say almost a year. as a car wash. i only use foam spray and high power water wash. and drive off. i dont even dry my car.
I just found this Jon. Great video, Very informative. I have a sneaky feeling these new "sprayable ceramics" are exactly what you suspect this is, a ceramic that's been diluted significantly with the base carrier solvent. I noticed how similar application is for them as what you found here.
tryed the cheap stuff...sure it took longer to go off but no big deal....water runoff was better than the non protected panel....verdict...for the price its good enough
Lol Did like the "Onion Bhaji" ending. Got to say it set me off. Nice to see some answers about this product as we have all seen it floating about the internet. Pretty much confirmed all the "Logical" thoughts I had regarding it. On to the next video...
Seems like a very biased review. This also makes us aware of how much markup there is in ceramic coatings, buy the cheap stuff so those other guys are forced to lower their prices
does it seem biased? And does it make you aware of how much markup there is in ceramic coatings? Its a bit like comparing an enzo with a saxo and saying Ferrari are making a huuuge margin compared to Citreon.. See my mind works differently.. I want to know what Im not getting when I go cheap.. In the case of the cheap ceramic I featured in this video I know exactly what Im not getting.. specifically, application instructions, support, and most importantly Im not getting much in the way of silazane resin content. the last thing is the show stopper for me.. Veteren is loaded with something hydrophobic, as that will be good enough for most people that wont know the difference between this and good quality high solids coating. this stuff is crapola, guys into their detailing should avoid...
@@TRDCelica your a dumbass. because most of the issues raised around the product were less about what it is, but more about how much of the resins are in there. As Ive said to other people you can test that out by pouring a high solids coating into a casting and leaving it a week and do the same with this stuff (one will give you a rock the other will give you a pool of piss).. ray charles could work that much out, 20 years of detailing and you cant, you must be one sharp fucking cookie. In terms of shilling, if I wanted to make money out of it I would recomend it to you because millions of people are buying it. So there would be a link in there so I could get commision from a very popular product that people will try on a very popular video. so think about what your saying. however full of hate your shitty little brain is...
@@TRDCelica What is he shilling for? He has not mentioned another product, and gave a detailed description of the product. The only product he mentioned was Optimum and that it uses a different base chemical, not even that it was good or bad, just that it uses an organic Si base. From all reports this ebay stuff does not even last as long as a decent sealant or wax.
Great info Jon, I’ve applied the majority of the branded coatings so this was interesting to see, I wonder what the longevity of these cheaper products will be.
I think you're right on the mark. I bought a bottle of this mostly out of curiosity and felt that the liquid was oily and would not harden. I've used it on my older truck because it's obviously not a what it claims to be.
Hi, this is a very good review for going into the ceramic coating for a beginner like myself, because I didn't know whats these products are like so I went cheap, I know I do understand you get what you pay for. So I got these from ebay and I wasnt going to try on my better car first ,so I try it on my daughter's cheaper car, I know If I ruin her car, I will get her another. Yes Im smart. Here we go , when first time put it on, its true after apply on and waite few minutes then rub off and not much resistance, then I try leave it a bit longer like 20m -25m, then it was harder to rub off in fact it was quite a job to rub off, anyway I even left some panel didnt even rub off, so the next day, they all harden, the 3 different methods i try, few minutes, 20m and 24h, I must tell you they all look the same, I think it work it work on a budget. I m not saying you should go buy this cheap product rather than the dearer one, I am sure the branded one will give you more protection and support, but it is fun to see what you actually get for the £3 ish, at the end of the day you get what you paying for and the user is at your own risk. What I learn from that was how to and try to put on the " ceramic coating " to gain my experience. I also will try to do the wheels as well. not bad for a £3 if you looking this way. Thanks
I used one of the cheap Chinese made ceramic coatings last year, got two bottles for 5 quid! it's kept a film in place of sorts but obviously not as good as a top make. I will use or buy a top one this summer and finish my VW's paint properly beforehand .. I did use the 2nd bottle of the cheap stuff though, I put it in the engine oil LOL! the engine works a lot better and will do for a few thousand miles, I'll change the oil and filter as usual and as per a non long life standard oil! but it's obvious that the cheap ceramic coats are just that, totally cheap and ineffective to properly protect your clear coat and from there the paint too! Works ok in your oil though! engine runs smoother and quieter! :)
It would be great if you measured the paint thickness. On good ceramic coatings, you gain a few microns after applying, definitely would be great to put a number on that.
My only concern is Does it Work, or Doesn’t it? I’ve not seen many claims from anywhere that it’s a rip off. So I will be grateful for an inexpensive product that works despite naysayers that think cheap means ‘no good’.
yes it works.. but the performance is pretty woefull. It cant be a rip off at 3.75. however with this sort of stuff theres more to it than does it work... theres issues with it on application because of the lack of bonding. Theres also issues with gloss retention. It excells at hydrophobity though (at least one of the cheap ones does.. they actually vary in performance). main thing is with the investment of time to prep a car for it, last thing I personally want is some dogshit product, that just about works. I want a product that I really get on with and impresses me. The expensive component that really makes a ceramic a ceramic is the main thing the cheap products are "low" on... they get around that by blending in components that you can notice more and effect water behaviour.
I bought a 30 ml bottle of one of the well know Ceramic Coatings and it did 3 vehicles. Well one entire vehicle and the unwrapped back half of my 2 other cars. It may have seemed expensive given the 30 ml product size but I am very happy with both the results and the value given how far it went. I also bought 30 ml of a wheel ceramic coating and it did 4 sets of wheels. So I have the same value comment there. Given the amount of time it takes to prep the car, I am not going to waste my time and effort by then applying an unknown product to the car.
I saw the comments about your eyebrows. If you do know that is a result of a thyroid condition. But thanks for the very informative and honest video. I’ve tested the Mr Fix 9H on plastic and my drivers side mirror. The true test is applying to a mirror.
Thanks Jon excellent review as always, having new double glazing put in soon so great idea at the end of the vid. Using it on wheels could be an option and affordable to do regularly.
Great video as usual Jon, you covered a lot of valuable information in this overview! Took about a month for this to deliver in the States, looking forward to trying it out. These off brand coatings have been spamming the crap out of many detailing videos with fake accounts, I’m a bit sour about that.
Did you ever get around to testing? Just checked your channel and didn't see a video. I am really curious if these "spray ceramics" we are seeing now are simply ceramics loaded with the solvents because the application looks a lot similar to what John found here.
You've mentioned throughout that one of the downsides is longevity of these cheap ceramics due to having a lower concentration of resin. Have you tested the longevity? Is there any objective evidence of longevity at all because that's what most people want to know!
I’ve been hooked on Liquid Glass polish because of its longevity , Deep polish look , overall shine. I put it on a non clayed or polished surface last year and it’s still on. I like ceramics to tho, but for the price liquid glass is hard to beat.
It is a car 'wax' that is fairly affordable in the USA. It is really a good 'polish/sealent/wax'...you can put it on glass as well, it is like putting wax on windows. But Rain-X works just as well. Liquid Glass is NOT a glass cleaner...it is a good wax/polish/sealant. Hope that helps.
'Liquid Glass' is a paint sealant/wax, it is very good, last a very long time. That is its name. 'Rain-X' is for the glass ONLY! That is what makes the rain bead up and run off your windows. You cant put it on paint at all!! That is its name. 'Rain-X'. Every auot parts store sells both.
What I get from this is the cheap stuff is so cheap if you have to apply 2 coats it still does the job for a super cheap price. I paid £4.50 for a bottle of MR FIX 9H and some of the main types of coating are more than 10x this
Hey I would recommend people give this thing a shot. I bought from a different source, so ~$10 shipped. Shocked me it can be found even cheaper. applied that on wife's SUV engine hood, along with bunch of other professional coatings such as McKee's old and new paint coating on other panels (all are > $50 products). The car parked outside uncovered 24/7, went through two tropical storms and several flooding in the past months. I live at coast, so lots of rains and salty water which are unhelpful. So far the old Mckee's coating completely degraded. The new Mckee's is holding just fine but see some signs of degradation and loss of hydrophobicity (may also due to the uneven application coverage, Mckee's flashes too quick). This stuff however has absolutely no sign of failing, water beads crazy. Considering the price, even if this thing only holds like 6months, it's a huge win. There are plenty of > $50 "professional"/"premium" ceramic coatings in US that claim to hold up to a year but really starts to go away only about 6months.
Excellent informative video, thank you for taking the time to explain what people are getting in these ultra cheap ceramic coatings. I agree that these are clearly “watered down” versions of the real thing. It’s done with so many things. If the detailer wants to protect their paint with an actual barrier, then they need a product with a good concentration, not some 95% solvent rubbish. I might buy a bottle of CarPlan No1 super gloss and knock it out on ebay in 30ml bottles as that beads up lovely and should pass most peoples standards for a ceramic coating from what I gather..lol
I genuinely believe that's what these Chinese formulations are. They're basically, bulk buys from Gtechniq, Carpro, Moderna, etc., and watering it down and rebottling it.
The cheap Chinese one is worth a go on the propeller of my boat for £3 and free postage! Interesting to see if there is less gunge sticking to prop at end of season, was looking at wax with anti-fling properties also, as regards cars in the northern hemisphere, the further north you are the more crap on cars! LA looks a nice spot for detailing cars and stay clean!
I'm paying AU$6.50 a bottle for a product (Mr Fix 9H) that has now lasted 12 months and is still beading and shining beautifully. Wax costs a lot more, only lasts a few months at best and doesn't offer the protection this does. I'm doing the whole families cars.
I wold love to see a side by side time test. Put multiple products on a car and see which holds up better over a year or two. Maybe have a section where you put a single coat of the cheap stuff on, then another where you put on multiple coats.
problem is looking at hydrophobicity to measure durability. and when you compare coatings the most hydrophobic after a year might not be the most durable. but might appear so, but the co-efficents of hydrophobicty are not the same across products, typically though the more hydrophobic components you put in there you actually reduce durability. I can measure gloss retention but there are accuracy problems do that and also its not a properly durability measurement, more an inference on durabilty. very hard to properly test coating durability outside of a lab.
Hi John, just wanted to know if you believe the curing time has a large effect on the final outcome because 11 months ago I applied a ceramic coating to my car and left it for approx 2-3 hours before taking it out in the rain. The coating didn’t hold up very well at all, repelling qualities were poor, and beading stopped literally a month into having it done. I then applied the coating after full prep again 2-3 months ago and left it for 24 hours, the difference is insane! My coating is still holding up well even to this day.
yes mate. taking the car out after 2-3 hours in the rain is a bad thing. im about to publish a video on ceramic app. Really you want to let the coating harden up for at least 12 hours. Possibly longer if you can. they say the full cure is like 1-2 weeks but hard enough to use the car generally after 12 hours.. temp can have a big effect on this as well. really cold temp (below 10 deg) can mean the coating could still be taky after many hours. prep is critical as well. gonna delving into a lot of these areas soon m8
hey tyler have a watch of the best ceramic coating video.. however on a truck you might want a one shot single layer coating.. I like britemax amethyst quartz as a single coating because I find it easier to apply.
I tried this stuff last year on my work truck, it's alright; but I wouldn't even think about applying this to any high end vehicle and probably slap myself for even allowing the bottle to touch the vehicle. It's a fun ceramic to apply, easy and actually works for a couple of months; then fades...2 years it's suppose to last? lol...I applied 3 coats of this stuff and barely got 2 months...Great for a short period as far as an intense gloss, otherwise my old man personally thought I bought a new vehicle...
@@7s29 lol, yeah; that was my experience with the product if you have time to kill and want something easier to apply than wax (and probably more effective, otherwise it does scare me how long some people take to detail their vehicles that's only for the 'shine' while I'm desiring those hydrophobic properties; but find more like that Gloss that I never really appreciated except when I played around with Mr. Fix and ceramics as an introductory). You could try playing around with P&S Beadmaker (what I'm using for now), but you're not going to get the same type of gloss like you might get with Ceramics like Mr. Fix. For now, I'm making plans to experiment with Technician's Choice ceramics which costs 5 times what Mr. Fix costs but it's still affordable and maybe higher quality; but I'll know that once I play around with the product...lol...
Hi great video I do mobile detailing, I purchased this mr fix 9h from amazon so far I’ve just applied this to a bonnet about 2 months ago that have in my back garden it does seem to be holding up quite well, I can honestly see this reaching 12 months easy, you never know it might be a good one for wheels . I’ll let you know after winter how it’s doing
Mihai Dobre Hi mate it’s holding up very well, all i do is clean it with chemical guys eco smart, the bonnet stays outside all the time and is still very hydrophobic 👍
I think they set out to try and discredit the product. Some of the criticism is fair- the instructions are poor. But there is now a pdf online that you can google with very good instructions. The other issue is that people need to know that the hard part is not applying the coating but washing, cleaning, clay baring and buffing your car BEFORE you apply the product. Follow all the prep steps and follow the online pdf and you should get great results. I did all the prep work in my garage. I didn't inspect the car after buffing before I put on the coating. It was only after the finish hardened that I realized I had some sections with oxidized paint which now looked much worse because of the shine of the ceramic coating. I then had to buff through the coating, remove the oxidized paint and re-apply to those sections. This added 2-3 hours of work. But I am now very happy with the results. The paint looks great, the windshield looks great, the black trim looks great and all parts repel water. I'm buying 3 more bottles for our other 2 cars. Follow the proper prep and you'll be very happy. If you are not willing to do that, take your car to a professional and pay for them to go through all the necessary steps. So you will either pay with your time and labor or pay the cost of a professional detailer.
Mate, while I think you were too biased about it going in, your analysis looked good with the exception of measuring film thickness. Too easy to do. So, the benefits are: way cheaper, easier to apply due to slower setting time, and you need to have some independent thinking on HSE. Drawbacks: longer cure time. The big unknown is overall durability and film thickness. Good video.
I think all the problems with it just revolve around not having much "solids" in it.. enough to leave something behind but theres a reason the more expensive products have more silica in them perhaps. other people tell me they use cheaper raw materials as well but its hard to really know.
@@ForensicDetailing I think you also make a valid point: if you spend $$$ on paint correction (arguably the most expensive party of the whole process) why would anyone want to save a few quid and risk the other investment?
Good video! I just bought some Drexler Ceramic coating for my Jag XF-S. Cost a bit more than a portion of onion bhajis. I’m expecting it to be a bit better than the AliExpress stuff you tested here.
Great video! I'm in the US and have thought about doing ceramic but a little scared, Would love to know your thought on some of the US based products. Thank you again for making this.
Color and Drive as well as nano bond are pretty good. Color and Drive is the better of the 2. I still prefer Kamikaze coatings but was surprised with the cheaper alternatives.
I've been playing with multiple ceramic coatings and have found the same thing with the cheap ones as you have described. They are for sure watered down but for the cost it seems a bargain And you might want to apply as many coats as you can curing them between coats , nice video
@@ForensicDetailing I tested out nanobond ,mr fix 9h and glasklare along with a Chinese top coat and vs ceramic pro sport , the nanobond drops hardened with good mils and Mr fix was not as thick took little longer to cure and glasklare didn't dry at all and has been over 4 days and just starting to see the leftover resin. And finally for the top cost the Chinese brand was very watered down and seem to have evaporated mostly while ceramic pro sport was excellent with high build residue. Going to coat next car with 2 coats base with nanobond and pro ceramic sport for top coat. Have you tried any of these brands ?
My 2 cents, "proper" ceramic coatings are more marketing, most of the car detailing companies are marketing companies not real development companies, you assumptions that they do R&D are speculative, Most of the time you pay more but you don't get more. Ofcorse the detailing companies products are way more consistent as you mentioned but on other hand the price difference is huge. This cheapo products are great for beginners and at this price even if the protection last for 6 months it is still great value.
I hear what your saying, both sides of the coin makes valuable input.. I dont think they are marketting companies though. playing around with the speciality chems to create ceramic products is something that only a handfull of companies are doing. No one in the UK as far as I know has done it yet (but I think theres a few that are working on it). How generic are the products. I think if we could wind the clock back a few years to when they first broke out then they were a lot more generic. nowadays not so much. And picking a product thats new and cutting edge could give you significant performance over something that isnt. Theres been some new speciality chems come out that seem to be moving the direction of the coatings to a different base solid. This could be part of the reason theres a lot of this stuff out there as well. Generally speaking the companies whos detailing lines are founded on ceramic coatings and accompanying products, will keep up with developements more. A simple example of this is the Gyeon mohs package which is completly different to most other ceramics. Id also say the cheapo products are not that great for begineers. They are prolly better for guys that have used a ton of coatings and know more about various application issues. The cheapo coatings might be better to stick on your "beater" or "daily" with the caviat that it doesnt really matter if the results are not great.. but then to be honest is it really worth using this type of product for that anyway?
Excellent analysis! I already bought a bottle of Mr. Fix 9H and applied it to one of my headlights on my 2011 G37. It went on easily but was a bit sticky as I buffed it off, which I guess is a good thing, based on this video? I'm going to see how long it lasts, as I've been using 303 protectant, which doesn't last very long. I'll compare headlights and see which looks better over time.
say after a year or 2 whats the best process to remove the old coating and start again? machine polisher with compound or is there a solvent that can be applied to wash the old coating off?
I saw a detailing center in my town that uses this one!!!! That's not the problem, the problem is that they claim using high quality products and have gtechniq, carpro, koch chemie banners all over the place :D FRAUDE
I have purchased product for curiosity and I ended with product being applied onto wheel arches and windshield. It is a good rain repelent and it makes wheel arches easier to maintain, but it will not go near my paintjob. You should test it on glass and plastics in one video :)
thats prolly a really good way to use it. wheel arches trim maybe. I dont really see the point of any putting anything on glass tbh but thats more a personal preference.
I suspect that all the chinese guys get the same Bottles. But maybe the formulations are different. I have like 25 different Guys offering that same product for prices between 4 and 25 quid. So i sugggest you buying all of them and do a test via evaporation so we know what solid contents we have in the products.
I'm not a chemist, but maybe we can increase the concentration of the product by allowing the solvents to evaporate for a few hours or days (in a moisture-free environment) while keeping the bottle in motion to prevent it from drying and hardening. Just an idea. As the product is inexpensive it can be an opportunity to experiment :)
So you're basically saying that in your opinion this is a real ceramic coating product but more heavily diluted with solvent than the much more expensive 'legit' coatings on the market. You say that the dilution actually makes it easier to apply. You say it shows hydrophobic properties and appears to work but question how long it will last. Well, if it only lasts a 10th of the time of 'legit' coatings but is 10x cheaper and easier to apply I'd say it sounds like a good product.
I would think a good test to see how concentrated the solution is would be to put a measured amount of the solution into a container and allow the solvent to dry off leaving the coating behind. Do the same with a genuine product and you should have you answer
yer it is dave your right ive done that test. I used a plastic sphere measuring spoon with about 3ml of solution. after a week its still liquid. some of the consumer based coatings can be lower in solids and stay liquid for days but even those that dont turn into a lump of solid like silica still harden to a thick crust. but what I am saying in this video is true these cheap ebay ones are cheap because the concentration of the inorganic silazane and the binders for it are very very low. still get some that dont believe it and because the microscopic thin layer thats applied to a car still sets and last they are convinced its the real deal..
I'll try to clarify this a bit for you, Jon. It's an old video, and you'll probably won't see this one, but nevermind. I agree with most you said about this "ceramic coating", and it is ceramics indeed but it's watered down as u said. But try to understand my perspective. You live in a first world country. Man work hours are expensive, so one paint correction job will cost you around 10x more then it would cost you in eg. Serbia (which is still in Europe), where I live, and I am doing detailing. So for example, normal rate for single stage paint correction here is 50e (Job is still carried out professionally as you guys would do it, but its just cheaper because of how work hours scales with economy of one country), and it would be carried out with Rupes 15, Sonax Perfect finish or Ex 04-06 with a yellow rupes pad in my case (noting this so you get better picture that we're not doing it with stones and bricks :D ). After paint correction like that, people usually and mostly would not shell out 50 more euros for a decent ceramic coating (usually even more than that since every detailing product here is more expensive than in the UK cuz of import taxes and lower demand for products) So I can see using this type of product in countries like mine is, for hobby guys that don't want to, or don't have money to pay for more. It is what you pay for after all. But in my experience, you get some protection, similar to a wax application, decent 3-4 months product life on a painted surface, solid gloss improvement for a 3e for how much u can order these things on Aliexpress or some other Chinese "eBay". All the best to you Jon, I love your vids and I watch them all the time and I enjoy watching them! This was just my attempt to clarify why some people rage in the comments section, but I wasn't able to find a comment like mine down there that tries rationally to explain why and how this ceramic coating can be used in some circumstances depending where you live, and how economy of one country can affect peoples perception on some of those products.
thats kind what I am talking about Stig. but yer like I think you want something more concise and like straight to the point.. and maybe I like should try and plan the videos a bit better so its less kind of informal talking and like getting straight into the meat and veg more right.
The question is whether the lower concentration of product does or doesn't result in a worse quality end result? I'd think that it's not necessarily the case, because with the higher concentration "legit" products you just might be wiping away most of the product you've applied to the surface anyway, when you're "buffing" it off, and because of that, you might not actually end up with a thicker coat of the product left on the paint, than with this one. Of course you'd need some serious equipment (sub-micron thickness gauge) to test that. But a more bare-bone testing could be just to simply apply the two products to an actual car, and see how they perform in the long term. If the cheap product can last similarly long time while preserving it's hydrophobic and glossy properties, then in the end it shouldn't really matter what the product concentration is, because the end results will be the same, or at least worth the money. So, the only real and proven drawback I can see with these cheap products for now is, that they're definitely harder to apply, or at least will take more time to do it properly (because of the longer curing time). Because of that they might not be suitable for mobile detailing, or for any other purpose where you have time and/or weather constraints. Application outside in the free could also lead to worse results, because of more pollen being able settle on the surface - or actually in the product coat itself - during curing time.
I think lower concentration would mean less resin% in whats left behind after buffing, and also more product absorbed in the microfiber during buffing, and also slower RTV cure (less relevent). really good points though gabor. With higher concentration, yes if you wipe early you "steal" more of the active ingredient, but what you leave behind will have higher concentration. The key thing here is with other products you can typically feel the cure happening and at this point the product is stiffening and bonding. so I suspect if you buff at this point you are leaving a much thicker amount of coating.
Great job and info. I will get a bottle of it and test it on my riding lawnmower just to see how long the protection is here in Arizona. Will I put it on my autos or truck NO. I'm taking your advice.
i apply Mr fix 9H on my infiniti q60 the product look great good for money cheap, peoples dont let those people fool with they product, they just want sell they stuff, i been apply mr fix 9h been a year now still look great, if u want buy expensive it up to you guys.............
There may be bottles with different quality liquid. I have used it, and the stuff i got did thicken and gave resistance when wiping it down. Seems to work fine, but you just cant be sure the quality is equal to established brands, atleast, not yet.
I'm not a chemist or chemical engineer, but with the talk of the base of these products, could you not just go on Amazon and buy pure silicone oil (polydimethylsiloxane), which is what treadmill belt dressing is, and just add alcohol as the solvent?
you could try :) serious answer is no rob jesus. theres about 10,000 forms of PDMS supplied by a large range of specialists in engineering silicones or siloxanes. 99% of those materials created are totally unsuitable for car protection products. Some of these materials are complicated and have clever chemical attributes (like how they bond) You want to use products from a company that have supply products using raw materials from speciality companies that have engineer'd materials for automotive maintainance coatings specifically. At least I do. The pure silicone oil you talk about its a standard linear silicone which is mainly engineer'd as a lubricant. Might make the car shine up, but its not going to bond or dry etc.. bit like covering the car in olive oil. but its silicone oil. Gotta have some faith in the companys rob, some of them invest millions in their R&D setup for example and employ teams of qualified chemists, some not so many chemists but may source from good places that do have expertise etc.. you can also get cheap good quality chems from companis though if you want value and simplicity the industry covers all bases.
you have to wait for it to cure then machine polish it away.. its a pain to do phillios.. if while your apply it, it start to stiffen and you discover a high spot or a bit which looks patching you can apply more over the top and the solvent in the fresh layer will thin down the high spot and then you can rebuff that panel.. but if its gone hard you have to polish it off and reapply
hey short answer is yes. I bought a few more of the cheap ones and played around with them a bit. I feel like ive learnt a little bit more about them, but Im weighing up the pro's and con's of covering the same ground again though... but we may well do an follow up video on this at some point...
Well thought out and reasoned vlog. 👍 By the way I tried the Adams H2O detailer and I was struck by the similarity of it to armorall shine and protect, not so much its application or looks but the feel and finish.
😂😂8:05 Him: "what in the hell are they cookin"? Dawayne johnson: "the rock is cooking". Crackhead: "can i get some". Dawayne johnson: "sure" puts him in choker.
You should have a go at making your own wheel cleaner that turns red when it reacts with the brake dust. Like the car wax series you made but for wheel cleaner. I think it would be really interesting!! Thank you for helping fellow detailer out.
I already have. it suxed though. I play around with these chemicals but im no chemist. Just helps me understand them for the vids.. the guys that do formulate have all the correct resources and knowledge and formal qualifications and years of experience etc.. if I could wind the clock back and I had done all this 20 years ago Im almost sure I would have set some sort of business up.. but Im cracking on a bit now.. this is still mainly about just really being into detailing and trying to make the videos relevent.
Adam I am actually a professional car detailer and I use a product called Ammo Plum. It’s a great wheel cleaner however it’s a bit on the pricey side. I just wanted to know what ingredients are typically found in these wheel cleaners and I love knowing more about the products I use on a daily basis.
Excellent in depth video, thanks. I am the first time ebay buyer you were talking about, I havent yet used the "Jim'll fix it" ( I feel dirty saying that name) brand I bought, and so i'm interested in what you have to say. You listed a number of good points for this product, for example, it contains the same base resin, its easy to apply, it leaves a hydrophobic coating on paint, the bottles decent the applicators decent and its the same cost as an onion bhaji, not 10 onion bahji's, yet you didn't really say, (other than the lack of health and safety warnings and instructions) what the bad points are so can I ask why exactly do you say you would not use it!? Thanks, Adam.
yer so one thing adam. in this video I am using a 3.75 coating called veteren. I suggested all the blue bottled ones are coming from the same place and might not be very good. I bought Mr fix recently as well. when it turned up it was in some wierd box and Im not even sure its the proper mr fix. the 3.75 coating is awefull. Its repellent so it has something in it other than just inorganic liquid silazane. But it doesnt retain gloss and I believe the solid content it slow. It also is prone to leaving streak marks on removal. but its very hydrophobic compared to a lot of coatings. the mr fix (which I think is fake mr fix) is a lot better. Its less hydrophobic but retains gloss like a good ceramic and has no application issues I can feel this one bond and bite into the paintwork when I spread to fresh bits of panels. I have no idea what Im gonna get if I buy another one. My advice is if you want a cost effective ceramic just by tac moonlight or gyeon cancoat. It will prolly contain more of the good stuff and it works out cheaper as well.
Surely the more solvent added would flash off quicker...if this cheaper stuff is taking longer to flash off then it would suggest there's less solvent in it.
not really no jay. say one product is 5% solid 95% solvent. Another product is 50% solid 50% solvent. they are in same bottles with lid off. solids will vaporise at same rate. but product with loads of solvent and low solids will stay more running and loose because solid to solvent ratio will also be lower. Its basically just more disolved and even after half the solvent on the low concnetration product has vaporised its only just reaching the starting point of the high solids one (in fact it still has long way to go, it would need to vaporise 90% of its solve to get down to 5% solid 5% solvent which is same as the high solids 50solid to solvent starting point)
Jon, watch all you vids, sorry to post off topic subject, but I know lots of people follow you. I also know you like to help us with recommendations on gear. I made my choice of a DA and went for Rupes after watching your vid ended up with LHR15 Mk2, 75 and iBrid. Just seen Slims detail in Enfield are doing really good deals on Rupes machines. Go check they are best prices I have seen. I paid more for mine there than present offer :-) Reliable outlet and recommended.
that tooling is gonna serve you well, its a nice smooth machine. really great to hear tats. I would still love to have an ibrid, maybe one day Im still not sure I need it though and its a lot of money for me. let me know how you find the tools.
Yes Jon, I bought the three LHR 15, 75E and the Nano iBrid all in dlx kit form. To give you quick answer, there is one tool I have not used yet and you would not guess I’m sure. I can’t believe it either LHR15! Been using the 75E and mostly the iBrid for what work I am doing. I am amazed how much I use the iBrid, it is limited but so useful and you just get creative with it the more you use it, it is time consuming though. I used the 75mm attachment to clean and polish the fr/end PPF with Med prod (fine was useless)and it was total control and was able to wax it. Perfect for the job.Looking forward to get the 15ES going soon.
