I'm so excited about this experiment! 😎 My first ever dirted aquascape! Really curious to see what kind of results we will get. Everything I'm using for this project: TANK (US) 36p amzn.to/37M97h3 (EU) amzn.to/3k0uhO5 LIGHT (US) amzn.to/3xRQAdG (EU) amzn.to/3zNbOLL FILTER (US) amzn.to/3AKak50 (EU) amzn.to/3slWGC1 CO2 (US) amzn.to/3COGU7E (EU) amzn.to/3mc2Bsn DIFFUSER (US) amzn.to/3t0Unoc (EU) amzn.to/3BQUDJE AQUASOIL (US) amzn.to/2WVLoZR (EU) amzn.to/3DWT92o POND SOIL (US) amzn.to/3EWBqbd (EU) amzn.to/3D2iRSl SHRIMP GRAVEL BLACK (US) amzn.to/3CUcrER (EU) amzn.to/3BStnu8 ROCKS amzn.to/38KAJDN WOOD amzn.to/3DVAowz GLUE (gel) (US) amzn.to/3wsl1rU (EU) amzn.to/308joUp GLUE (liquid) (US) amzn.to/3ofpKJZ (EU) amzn.to/3EVDYGA FULL PLANT LIST: Foreground - Micranthemum tweediei (MONTE CARLO) - Marsilea hirsuta Midground - Vesicularia ferriei - Hygrophila lancea Araguaia - Micranthemum umbrosum Background - Rotala rotundifolia Orange Juice - Ludwigia repens Floating plants - Phyllanthus fluitans All plants are from Dennerleplants 👉🏻Be sure to SUBSCRIBE to my RU-vid channel: RU-vid.com/mjaquascaping 👉🏻 Use Code ''amsterdam'' for 10% off CO2art products 👉🏻Use this link for a nice discount on Fzone fzonestudios.refr.cc/markjanfi... 👉🏻Destroy ALGAE with my FREE ebook 📖 bit.ly/3aBaAcy 👉🏻10% DISCOUNT on buceplanet.de with code: Amsterdam10
I have never done a planted tank. Been researching everything before I start one this winter bye springtime be ready for fish. So I'm very excited about this video. Only time I seen anyone preparing dirt was dirt they took from outside then they baked it in the oven I'm hoping the dirt exceeds everyone's expectations.
I organic garden also, so the idea of dirtied tanks appeals to me a lot! Will you be shielding the tank on the right again to avoid potential algae growth from the lighting on the Big Shallow? Or will the CO2 prevent it?
I'm rooting for dirt to win because I like the budget-friendly options. I would be interested for you to try the siesta period as discussed in Diana Walstad's book. In a dirted tank, without CO2 injection, you can use a longer photoperiod of 10-12 hours, but in between that you turn lights off for minimum 4 hours. At night, your tank builds up CO2 and releases it when lights come off. This also works during the siesta period as the light off gives the tank time to rebuild its CO2. One continuous long photoperiod in a low-tech tank is grounds for algae. I have run an experiment for myself using a small dirted aquarium and using siesta period for the first time. I am amazed at the amount of CO2 released. All my plants are pearling, mind you all my tanks are low tech and none of my plants ever pearled before so it must be the dirt+siesta period. This may be a good experiment for you next time. I have seen others place drop checker into a dirted tank that uses siesta and they've shown green indicator indicating CO2 is sufficient in tank. Great video as always and look forward to monitoring the progress.
You can combine then as well. I took some course black gravel from one tank, laid a layer 2/3 of the depth of the tank, then added the dirt on top and then finished it off with the aquasoil. I find it is as close to nature as possible. The roots of the plants will really grow through it well.
My local aquarium shop owner adivsed me the same when I was a kid. Think my lights were on 5 hours, off 2 hours, on 5 hours and off at night. I had a small 15 gallon tank with lots of plants, Guppies, Danios and Platties. It had no filter, no flow, no added CO2. Just dirt bottom coverd with gravle and a TL-lamp, not too bright. Worked really great for 1, maybe 2 years with weekly water changes. At some point I got uncontrolable blue-green algea. I now think both the dirt and the TL-lamp had to be repalced at that point, but I didn't have that knowledge at the time.
@@kcoker9189 Over time the plants use up all the nutrients from the dirt. They need that for growth. The main nutrients are nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P) and potassium (K). If they are depleted some plants, like the Echinodorus that I had, stop growing well and the whole ecosystem becomes unbalanced. This results in algae taking over. You will also see that the plants start to make much more roots, as the search for more nutrients. You either have to replace the dirt whit fertile dirt or add root taps in it. Other plants can grow by nutrients (NO3 & PO4) that end up in the water column from fish food, fish poo or the liquid fertilizers that you may add.
I run full 12 hours, then again algae is beneficial to my tanks. Snails, shrimp and ostracods love them. I added fairy shrimp for green water algae, neos for scud, and rabbit snails for hair algae. Tank balances itself. And I don’t have to worry about any of the algae or animals anymore. They’re good for weeks.
Of all the aquascaping vids on the internet this is the one I want to see most, I’m really excited about this series I setup my first dirt tank recently and it just makes me feel good knowing it’s a little more natural and obviously cheaper! My plants are loving it! Dirt for the win!!
This is great! I think the dirted soil will really grow well. Even if it takes a little longer than aquasoil, it would be a game changer because of the costs.
MJ, I am begging you to make a 1 year follow up video update. Keep them running, post updates every month, and it will be a fun franchise. Mostly the aquarists on RU-vid just start their tanks, but only a few of them show them a coupole years later, but that is exactly what I expect from a quality aquarium. I want mine to run for 10 years and get a beard (outside, not inside).
Little late to the show but I have done both ways years back after I got introduced Walstad method. The dirt wins every single time. Deep soil, a lot of plants, no vacuum graveling or water changes, a lot of patience and you have win every time.
This is really good content! I see a lot of advice often repeated, but never sure if anyone actually tested them side by side. I hope you continue this series and test other things like starter bacteria vs no starter bacteria.
Daily water changes for the dirted tank is perfect . The dirted tank will probably go wild in a few weeks thanks to the CO2 in the water column . Its just a matter of time before the Montecarlo goes wild along with the red root floaters on top .I am backing the dirt to eventually win . Also I know this request may be a bit hard to fulfill but sometime later you should try the same experiments without CO2 based on the fact that the dirt actually releases some CO2 into the water column . It may eventually be better than the aquasoil in terms of both colour and growth . Anyways looking forward to the next update !
Finally! Exited to see your results, I've been using dirt for a long time and just the start was kind of annoying but after that is going still strong.
I'd be interested to see this approach using that promoted by the Father Fish channel (1 inch of dirt augmented with quite a lot of extra ferts and minerals, followed by 2 inches of sand substrate...or at the very least in that ratio) with no CO2.
On FlooTheFlowerhorns channel he uses dieted tanks for most of his setups, he swears by it and says it saves him a lot of trouble with algae and the plants tend to do better overall, and that the plants actually perform chemical/biological filtration better than plants in normal gravel. This is such a cool experiment I can’t wait to see the results
Gotta cap both with sand for direct comparison. Both leach nutrients. Aquasoil most likely slower but they both do. Would be interesting in the long run which soil keeps nutrients the longest if both are capped
Amazing video it will be interesting to see who pulls ahead. I agree that the aqua soil it going to get a head start releasing so many nutrients into the substrate while the plants have to work past the inert shrimp gravel. Two thumbs up!!
Sike, I love the fact that you are making si.ar layouts and not totally identical ones. I have one favor to ask, can you show your detailed forest aquascape tank in your next video, I wanna see how it actually looks like now. Another favor, say hi to ur cherry shrimp for me.
Hi MJ! Very interesting! I am about to do a dirt tank and was wondering which type of dirt to use. Thanks for the tip, and can’t wait to see the progression of the test. Keep on, love your work!
I used dirt I dug up in my backyard mixed with some worm castings. It’s been going about 3 months now and it’s growing well and incredibly stable. I recommend the dirt tank 😃
@@MustafaKhan-dx4jlyou don't have to put roots directly in the soil,you have to cap the soil with 2cm sand and put the roots in the sand,they eventually grow and find the way themselves without burn
I started my first aquarium with dirt last week and am doing a dark start. My ammonia levels are high but I still have at least 2 weeks to go. Then a total waterchange and in go the plants and the fishies!..
I have had great success with pond soil. I've found it highly nutritional for the plants and have had great success particularly with harder to grow carpeting plants like Glossistigma. I normally cap it with fine sand or gravel. So far it has successfully out performed Aquasoil for me. I will be following your results closely. My money is on the humble pond soil.
My hypothesis is that the dirted tank will have a massive algae bloom, since the aqua soil will also absorb some nutrients back from the water column and have more stable water parameters. Since soil lacks this property the excess amounts of nutrients will remain in the water and spark a severe algae bloom. In my experience plants with delicate roots like MC don't like fine and sharp substrate like the gravel and thus stunting their growth, although I am very curious to see the results MJ!
@@fortyzz-7371 hmm, that is quite interesting. Maybe my hypothesis is wrong, it is possible that in my dirted tank somehow the cap layer got disturbed and the soil came in contact with the water. Nonetheless I would assume a tight packed gravel would be an ideal location for anaerobic bacteria, do you have any experience with that? Stuff like root rot, Smelly substrate or cyanobacteria living in the gravel?
@@underthecherrytree22 I have dirted on two of my tanks and had plants dying within the first month with a lot of brown algae and some cyanobacteria on the sand cap. I'm guessing the reason was the water was too unstable for them. Once it was stable I put more plants in and they took off and while the algae seemed to have regress.
@@RenegadeLK I used lava sand and sifted it before use. if you somehow disturbed the outer layer of the substrate it will release dozens of nutrients and cause algae. That's the only bad thing about dirted tank ig
@@underthecherrytree22no algae grew on the substrate though. The only thing to do with dirted soil is to always plant very heavily and don't disturb the soil
Here in New Zealand, some of us have been using a pond soil for years. It's called Daltons Aquatic Mix. It seem's to work just as well as some much more expensive options.
I'm really looking forward to this. I setup my first tank a few months ago and went with dirted. Curious to see if being cheap was a mistake. (It's definitely messy to move plants, but otherwise the plants seem happy). I capped with fluval stratum.
You can put some fine mesh (plastic garden mesh) on top of the dirt and then put some fine gravel. This will prevent the soil to mix with gravel but the roots will be able to penetrate the mesh.
Im rooting for the dirted tank cause most of mine are done this way. But i fear the carpet wont fair to well. Ive done carpet on gravel capped dirt before but that was Dwarf Sag. I had to Manually plant the runners in the substrate it worked but tedious. I dunno how its gonna work with your plant, But anxious to see the result. Now a days just for the carpet area i use aquasoil but still dirt underneath and gravel on the back for the stem plants.
I look forward to the results of this experiment. I’m going to take sides with the dirt. Yes, more cost effective for those with a tighter budget. And….are pomme frites in the Dutch food pyramid ? I’m with you Mark… I would have the large container of Mayo as well 😉
Loam in the USA is the rock particle size in between sand and clay. Put soil in a jar and shake… sand settles instantly… loam settles shortly after and clay particles can take days but the water will slowly clear from top to bottom if left undesturbed. The jar shake test will give the particle size ratios of a soil (the ratios of sand/loam/clay).
I've set up a 40 gallon breeder after having inspiration from the videos using the pond soil and it looks amazing. wish youtube would let me add a photo. thank you so much for the experiment series. LOVE your channel and thank you for all your amazing videos. take care mate
I'm going for the dirted tank because, dirt is loaded (I've used earthworm castings in all my planted aquariums for 7 years now with great success).... What is unfair for the dirted tank is that you used a border of about 3cm and placed pure gravel up against the glass on 3 sides? (way too fine in my opinion for dirt, best is 3mm in size).... this a disadvantage for the dirt because the monte carlo carpet plants roots will develop but will not find the dirt which should've been next to the front glass. Capping the dirt is just capping and to have a successful carpet with dirt, this dirt should never have borders of pure capping gravel. Love the channel, cheers!
I agree with the borders, which I thought was there because there would be an open path/beach element up front. I did a similar method in a tank that I wanted to have some crushed coral and gravel on the bottom to create a slope, but tucked in the soil around with maybe just a 2mm gap, using a scraping tool to push back sections of gravel to squeeze the soil along the edges. That way there were no visible layers through the glass and I could still have a nice layer of soil on top without using it exclusively for cost reasons.
Dirted tanks are specifically meant to be low maintenance because whether you go with traditional Walstad or the deep substrate variant that has 2 inches of sand cap bare minimum, you're supposed to rarely if ever clean the substrate. This is because dirted tanks are meant for the long game, i.e. you develop a food web and flow of decomposed nutrients from top to bottom of the substrate and the fish food is what effectively provides all the food that the plants will need. This flow of nutrients and biological activity can take over a year to fully develop, and often times the store of nutrients in the soil layer can give out before that time. As a result, people dismantle their tanks after that point, not bothering to extend the health of the plants with root tabs, not realizing the true purpose of these naturalistic system designs. A proper test is to have your tank going for a few years and see how it holds up, not just for plant growth, but for fish health and general maintenance too.
Based on some videos I have seen recently I'm considering a dirted tank with pond soil (pond compost, locked with 2"/5 cm of sand). It's cheaper than aquasoil, it's not a garden dirt. It would be interesting to see, how ceramic substrate would go, compared to these two. EDIT: I'm rooting for pond soil to win, but I heard the benefits start to appear after months to years of the dirted tank running (or issues if the cap is too shallow).
I did it and it work perfectly will regular liquid ferteler. make sure you put enought sand on top and a mix of red and green clay in the substrat for mineral input. I dont know if aquasoil releases magnesium but the durt wont, adding a magnesium source regularly (nigary, epson salt) will boost your plants.
I think both scapes will do fairly well but I’m being biased and I’m rooting for the dirted tank. Simply because it’s a cheaper option and that I have immense admiration for Diana Walstad and her Walstad method 😬 Although your dirted tank is a slightly more advanced setup with CO2 🤭
I have three dirted tanks and three aqua soil tanks. Walstad method for the win for sure! One problem is that it definitely clouds the water much more often. Very frequent water changes are super necessary if you want it to look nice.
Top, ik ben al een hele tijd aan het twijfelen over dirt, zelfde zakken lelie grond zelfs. Ik ga het misschien wel eens wagen, bedankt voor deze video.
Keep going whit this cool videos! I think you need to cover agean the hole between the big shallow and aqua rio soil aquarium.The green color may come from the extra light :)
so cool Mark, the next experiment could be the first tank with Dark start method and the second without or all in one fertilizer vs separately dosed😁👌🏼
I have used waterlelie substraat in my first planted tank years ago, the results were pretty good actually. only have to watch out that you don't mess around with plants to much because it will get a bit messy. if you do decide to remove some plants, make sure you do a big water change after! Dustin gave me the idea to use dirt in the tank.
Super interesante. En este esperimento deberás esperar más tiempo que el anterior, para ver si los nutrientes bajan o no con el paso de los meses. Un saludo!
Will be interesting 🤔 to see the results,that you have.as both these products there is a huge difference in price..yes I’ve seen MD do this who lives 1/2 mile from me.only thing I might say to people is I wouldn’t use the Lilly soil in a tank that has fish that will dig 🤷 the substrate..I see you use the same C02 bottles as myself.I’ve (3) and got mine from China some 3 years ago…
This is aqua soil vs aquatic soil im pretty confident dirt has it in the bag, I agree that the aqua soil should theoretically have a head start, but nature always wins in the end.
I have a 30 gallons aquarium which I use dirt as a substrate. The plants growth are pretty satisfying. My only regret is that I dont cap the dirt with a thick layer of sand. After a few months, the sand start moving and the dirts are exposed to water column, which cause many tiny particles floating in water. But still the plant growth is great and the fishes are healthy.
If you have a tube of any kind this will easily spot fill the areas that need more of a cap...I have done it on all of my scapes and after I have cleaned up the sand really good it packs up the tube very easily...I use the clear tube made for cleaning gravel , and the plastic cap that you hook up to a hose is the end I use for adding sand
If you have a tube of any kind this will easily spot fill the areas that need more of a cap...I have done it on all of my scapes and after I have cleaned up the sand really good it packs up the tube very easily...I use the clear tube made for cleaning gravel , and the plastic cap that you hook up to a hose is the end I use for adding my sand that I pack tighter the better . Very easy to control the sand and if you don't have a tube I have cut off the bottom of a large soda bottle which works but the sand comes out very fast 🎯
I've done a dirted tank and not capped it at all. Seems to be pretty stable anyway and after a day or two any floating debris sank down to the bottom or was picked up by the filter
I have two tanks that are dirted: organic potting mix with root tabs and osmocote mixed in (this is important as it is a constant fertilizer), then capped with fine sand. The plant growth and general health of root feeder plans is great because of this natural fertilizer. My non dirted tank sees far less healthy growth.
I have aqua soil in my nano tanks, but I'm planning a sort of Amazon biotype setup in a pair of 55gallon tanks that are set up side by side in our den - and I'd really love to use soil with a fine sand cap.
I have a dirted tank capped with sand, no co2 or liquid ferts and I'm trimming plants weekly with water changes, pearlweed is carpeting really well too
Now im so curious omg . Tip MJ , place that co2 defuser under the filter in flow to circulate in all parts of the tank because u are waisting alot of co2 for nothing . Waiting inpaciently for this setup to develop . Im a aquasoil user but i think they will develop at the same pace but im curious about the algae development ... escuse my bad english
Water lily soil for the win...its a year later and I've just found your channel so I wonder what the results where....I'm gonna have a wee look..new subscriber...no need to thank me.😊🏴
I'm so intereseted as my plants are struggling in dirted tank with a sand on the top... I was considering already to buy the aqua soil and start it all over again, but now I'll wait :) (thank you for your video - perfect timing...)
Sand is too fine to cap the dirt, it doesn't allow the soil to breathe and gets suffocated. You must allow the substrate (dirt) to interact with the water column and receive oxygen. Best is gravel 3mm/4mm sized...
Nice experiment! I wonder tho if it is fair for the foreground plants as they are now in the gravel. You only have dirt in the middle of the tank, what do you think?
