Here is my small CoreXY 3D Printer I call Rook. This is mostly 3d printed! My Discord / discord Github github.com/rol... Support me on Patreon / rolohaun My Instagram / rolohaun
Simply amazing! I absolutely love my enclosed Prusa, but every time I have to print a polycarbonate part and I'm waiting for the printer to finish a small PLA part -- I can't help but think "This machine is kind of overqualified for that job", I need some work horses. Most of the time I don't need a rich feature set, 300c hotend or build volume -- I just need more parts to finish per 24h. And everyone knows: The best way to make a printer four times as fast, is not to build a Voron/RatRig. No, the best way is to have 4 printers at a quarter of the price! The Rook seems repairable, moddable, plenty capable, and very cheap -- It ticks all the boxes!
🎉 This is really nice design! Seems a little easier to make than a Voron, and the reaults are impressive. The main parts I have lying around are spare mainboards, so it would be great to print and build some Rocks to put them to good use and give them extra evaluation.
@@jeffreyepiscopo And how easy they are to make to decent standards. Alignment of the axis and leadscrews is vital in 3d printing. Aluminium extrusion and steel plates/linear rods(prusa i3) is great for that. Lots of plastic parts leaves lots of room for errors to build up. Easy fix for those who don't mind to tinker but not great for a consistent out of the box experience.
The best thing about this printer is the colour. As good or even better is the integration of structural parts as framework and it is all topped off with a massive amount of simplicity. You are a very creative fella, Master Rolohaun. Impressive.
Albert Einstein: "the best solution is the simplest solution that works". This printer certainly precisely aims in that direction. This is a pretty genius hardcore printer. Nice colour by the way
This thing is a masterpiece of simplistic design. If You have a 300x300 bed can you print the top in 1 piece instead of the 5 or so pieces that you have shown here? Looking forward to getting the files for this.
@@Rolohaun Agreed, larger versions would be cool too. But what I meant to ask was if you can print the top piece as 1 component using a 300x300 printer. It looks like it was made in 5 pieces (frame, idler mounts, stepper mounts) to save space on the "mother" printer
Concept is awesome but let’s also keep in mind that PLA creeps under mechanical load. This thing will require constant adjustment until it eventually is so skewed the prints look horrible. If you’re going for a retro rep rap style printer for nostalgia over strength and rigidity maybe use ASA or ABS for these parts, as the originals were
Omg this is awesome! I thought of a few cost-saving measures that maybe could help: 1. Remove two of the rods in opposing corners. Replace these rods with the existing z screws. The core xy layer can interface with the z screws via a bearing (so the rotating screws don't imaprt any force on the core xy layer). 2. Remove one of the nema Z motors and connect the two rails with a belt and pulley. This means possibly a bit more calibration to get the zscrews even though.
I think it would be better to rigidly mount the leadscrews as part of the frame, and instead turn the nuts to travel up and down. For example you could put pairs of 15x21x4 bearings in the bed carrier, and print 24 tooth pulleys with a long 15mm OD cylindrical portion above the upper flange, and leadscrew threads on the inside. The flange would be 17-18mm OD, and serve as a platform for the inner race of the bearing to sit on (assuming the pulleys stick out the bottom of the bed carrier). Mount a single motor to the bed carrier somewhere to turn both pulleys with a closed loop belt.
@@pooounderscoreman lol, I'm struggling to resist the urge to build it myself just to watch it go. I don't need another 3D printer, and I don't have space or money or time for one either. I came up with an even better version too. Instead of opposing corners, keep the two front rods for the linear bearings, and have them stick above the top to double as the idler shafts (as someone suggested in another comment). Replace the back two rods near the motors with leadscrews, and then add a third leadscrew in the front. Use 3 independent motors turning each of the nuts with 3D printed gears instead of belts and pulleys, and you can have automatic leveling of a one-piece 3D printed non-heated bed, instead of needing the separate bed carrier and spring-mounted bed. You could probably even do away with the bearings supporting the combo pulley/leadscrew nuts. Just print ~10mm face width gears with leadscrew threads inside and let them rub against the underside of the bed as they turn. Maybe stick a bit of teflon sheet or something inbetween to act as a thrust washer, if grease isn't enough to prevent wear.
This is absolutely brilliant on so many levels.The first idea for the Voron V0.1 was to 3d print i, but that idea was scrapped. This design seems to prove that it was a viable idea. I think that you may have changed the hobby with this design! I wanted to try to design something like thi but now I don't have to because you already did it!! The Z-axis rails doubling as the frame are what really make it special. Congrats!
this is going to change the trend of what you do when you get a 3d printer. From now on you will print a second 3d printer and then begin to print all the mods for the first one
A cool idea for integrating the bed into the frame would be to embed magnets into the z axis plate and then you could slap on a cheap steel flex-plate build surface. It would prevent any chance of the nozzle gouging a printed build plate.
Very cool. I'm confident that you could get a klicky-NG-style probe on that print head. I've been working on my own that is extremely small using only 2 magnets, and the probe module isn't much larger than the omron micro-switch itself. The hotend mount is 2 magnets and a small set-screw to make a "tripod" to stabilize the probe. It would fit under your hotend fan, assuming that the magnets wouldn't interfere with its motor. Working out a docking solution is the tricky part, but worst-case you could just have the printer beep at you to attach and remove it manually.
Recently picked up a used Anet 8 for spare parts, but saw this video and have decided to use it as a donor. Between it and a spare SKR 1.4, should have most of the bits needed. Finished scaling the frame for the 220mm bed and started printing last night. I am excited to get going on this mostly printed project after success with the Lowrider2 (mostly printed cnc router).
Gives me nostalgia back to the early days of reprap Also the yellow filament plus the printed frame just reminds me of the old GUS SIMPSON delta from way back
Neat design having linear rods double as frame, reminds me of the early delta printer designs. For the cheap idlers I'd suggest some green or red loctite(green wicks better).
Love this design! A bit what I was planning on designing myself of all my spare parts I have laying around. However, I'm not going to build this one, because *designing* the printer is part of the fun 😀
Imagine in, in Glow In The Dark plastic, with wither a LED at the nozzle, or 2 - 4 LEDs as "Spotlights" in the frame. That being said; this is absolutely amazing and I'm going to take a look on making this soon!
You could remove the fan on the print head and replace it with a properly shaped intake if the cooling fan can be placed on the other side and air focused more; this way you can decrease print head mass, enabling faster accelerations, and still guarantee good hotend cooling and making part cooling better (necessary for fast printing). Another possible improvement could be to remove one of the z axis motor and couple the lead screws with 3d printed gears (motor can be placed centrally) in order to decrease not-printed parts. Finally, if higher print speed are a goal (or if you want a cool-looking enclosure to display the printer in your living room) you could mount it in an Ikea EKET cube. It would increase rigity and look VERY cool.
Here's an idea for leveling a printed bed: just print a permanent raft on it. It'd be the additive equivalent of surfacing the spoilboard on a cnc router.
It's interesting to see how much this is PLA but just enough is using more stable/sturdy rails and screws: basically, the printed parts appear to be tensile in nature. If this had a heated bed, I wonder if there'd be interesting stresses in the plastic frame parts. I'm thinking you'd want the rails to only really attach in the middle of the edges of the frame to minimize frame warping. Of course, it'd best be made out of something better able to tolerate heat than a PLA variant. It'd also require some consideration for the width between the mount points, too, as the rails along Y (calling it that to differentiate, and typically bed-slingers use that orientation) may shift dimensions along X, causing some interesting things for the stresses that may skew things. At minimum, I'd expect such a printed printer to perhaps degrade over time if not accounted for. The X rail crossbar helps keep the dimensional accuracy within the realm of metal coefficient of expansion, regardless of what the plastic does. Did you print this on the Bambu to get it printed very fast?
Have you thought about designing an enclosed variant? Solid panels will easily grant you racking and torsional rigidity. I'm taking to incorporate the z mounts into the panels, like an exoskeleton.
I think you can try small proximity switches. The smallest 3mm cylinder can be easily placed in the tool head. This may be a good way to give up leveling screws
Could you have the 2 vertical rod for the front linear bearings stick out the top another 50mm and put the idler bearings onto it? You could change the diameter of the idler wheel to maintain the correct belt positioning.
@@Rolohaun I got some of the CR-10 hotends from Ali Express for £2.19 which is around $2.54 and they are good they come in red, silver and blue heatsinks, I fit compression fittings for the Bowden instead of the pneumatic ones with the teeth and add a Haldis bi-metalic heatbrake and a Mellow Mk8 nozzle, I swapped out some friends and a few family members hotends for them after they saw mine working just as well as the Micro Swiss, it is a very cheap but effective hotend.
I think i will build and tune this! I just love simple stuff. Maybe check out my inverted delta on my channel which also shifts all the complexity from hotend, cooling, weight etc to only the construction of the bed. Awesome man!
Very cool printer. Bit of an Idea for part cooling fan, you can mount a fan to the back of the toolhead in the same way as ratrig does. Then you wouldn’t lose on print area i think.
If you're 3d printing the bed, then why not use the printer itself to do that? That way you know it will be parallel to the print head. Obviously print the frame on another machine, but use this one to put the final layers on. You could manually probe the bed to get a rough level and then have that compensation blended out within the first 10 layers or so. That way your final product would be level and flat (compared to the mechanical xy movement)
Thanks this realy is awesome. Please for us less tech savy people make a video on the setup of the MB and how you are sending STL files to the MB. What slicer and settings are you using for the printer.
just love it! inspired me greatly. have all i need to build my own but the rails.. not a fan of them. thinking of using vslot instead with the small wheels, taking away a little of the all 3d printed idea. rods for x and y to maybe.. oh insperation how i have missed u!
Hey! Looks amazing. Its nice how much effort and thinking you put into this design. I think i'm gonna build one of these. BUT i would first like to see some quality / speed comparison prints. Because the prints shown in your videos are not "that" nice i think. I mean they look good, but for small parts, i would like to archive top quality when printing slow. I got a V2.4 and have everything i want, but for small parts, this machine could be a good option. Could you try to make a video with nice videos/photos of the prints, so we can clearly see the quality capacities? Thanks! Go on!
Could you please upscale this for printing on a larger 300 x 300mm printer? Current Linear rail size would be plenty big. I'd go with 10-12mm Z rods though.
really good ideas, I've been wanting to design a little corexy that maximizes the printing area while minimizing the overall dimensions and this seems to do it perfectly. Also I had the printed frame idea in mind for a while but didn't have good ideas for the Z axis, this is really good and makes much more sense than what I had in mind. I might design my own someday with a higher focus on portability, thanks for sharing!
its REALLY COOL❤ i cant 3d print it (prusa mini& building a voron0.2), but ill attemt to cnc mill the frame from plywood and mount the parts some other way once i finish my 0.2 ill either build one or recycle my prusa mini the lower frame can be milled as is , the bed carrier as well the top frame needs some mods, but nothing i cant do 🤷♂️ well see how this plays out
Love it! How is the Z resistance to racking? I noticed you used short-length LMUU bearings. Especially with the whole Z-axis being printed, I would worry that it could wiggle too much and maybe even stick? Maybe three screws would be better?
