CHEAP R-12 auto A/C substitute! 

Left the oil that was already in the system. Years ago I was super cautious about using only what was recommended. I've come to realize that some you should follow, but others are nonsense. My opinion anyways.

Desert Explorer 302 thanks for the info. Have you had any system failures in any of the R-12 vehicles you’ve switched to the dust cleaner?

The proper procedure is 75% airflow, recirculation OFF below 86 degrees F, OR recirculation ON above 86 degrees F, with the engine at operating temperature and the cabin cooling down for ~15 minutes, then check for proper pressures. R-152a (HFC-152a) will be approx. 10% lower on pressures compared to R-134a (use a temperature and pressure chart), with a -1% volumetric cooling capacity and ~10k higher discharge outlet temperature. HFC-152a also has a lower molecular weight, so for a 2.3 lb system (36.8 oz) you should be charging with ~23.81 oz of R-152a (36.8 x 0.647); always charge by weight, never by pressures. You should also purchase HFC-152a in electronics duster form that does not contain bitterant, as anything that is not refrigerant or oil is technically a contaminant and will affect both the performance and longevity of your ac system. (www dot) intarcon (dot com) /en/refrigerante-r152a/

@@NateInTX I made all my notes here, a couple years ago: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-oS3N6iLcrZI.htmlsi=K_8wLz057P861Lnj It still works great but next time I'll be using 134a from a cylinder so it's possible to weigh the refrigerant. That, and the duster spray price has increased so much it's no longer an advantage.

I would vacuum it out if you have a vacuum pump available.

Take it and have it recovered by a pro.

You'll have to do something about the mineral oil in your R12 system because it won't circulate with r152a or r134a. One quick way to enable the mineral oil to circulate with these refrigerants is by adding a couple ounces of ester refrigerant oil. The other (better, imo) way is by flushing the system but this takes more time and expense because you need to replace the desicant dryer because the desicant beads are saturated with mineral oil and by now (decades), can't absorb moisture. After flushing, reassemble, deep vacuum for at least an hour, nitrogen pressure test, add pag oil, deep vacuum for a more couple hours then charge liquid refrigerant from a cylinder going into the high pressure side into the vacuum, quantity based on refrigerant weight (use a scale). If your system is in good condition with no leaks, the job is complete.

My R12 system, at 90 degree outside temp, will push out 45-48 degree AC. I have R12 in my stash but I'm checking for leaks .with Air Duster Might keep it as is.

I pulled a vacuum on mine as I have a vacuum pump. While it's recommend and good practice, I've recharged systems without pulling a vacuum and never had a problem myself. I mean, it's not correct by the book, however you can't always go by the book. An old trick is to charge it up with enough to cycle to compressor and then purge it out, then proceed charging as usual. (It's illegal to purge refrigerant into the atmosphere) So legally I can't recommend it.

He's an embarrassment to our country and the world.

@@vegasfordguy Come on guys.... Don't YOU like paying high gas prices for a fake war some other country is partaking in? We have NO troops or equipment in the skirmish. Why the heck are WE paying 5 bucks plus a gallon? We're not even involved here people?

@@vegasfordguy Check your 401K about now....... THANKS BRANDON!!!

ah yes the president has a secret knob that directly controls the price of gasoline..... makes perfect sense.