Cheaper Deals on Insulated Plasterboard!  

Cool, I'm on a break from RU-vid right now but there's loads to watch still 👍

They do charge loads of money for it but I suppose it does have its place if you wanted to dot and dab it straight onto blockwork. Charlie DIYte has a good video on that 👍 the times I've been specified it have been for timber frame but it really doesn't take up hardly any time to do it seperately and save all that money

@@THE-AIDEN-PROJECT Interesting thought. The room will have a kind of frame work put in, the metal type they use in France mainly. So we'll be going down the route you say and save shitloads hopefully!!!

@@eileengeldard323 yeah there's no reason why you can't do it like I've done. You only need a couple of fixings to keep the insulation board up and then fix the plasterboard as you normally would

Thanks Rob 🙌

Yeah the industrial contact adhesive should work. Humm was that Ali Dymocks video?

@@THE-AIDEN-PROJECT Ali, yes it was 😸

wish someone would make a video about gluing plasterboard to insulation.. I presume contact adhesive would be cheaper than using the same foam you use to attach to the brick wall.

I’m literally looking for that exact video, ive got a single skin porch that ive fitted batons im now like shall i just try it🤣

@@djjluvv yeah, make sure you film it and upload it to youtube!

They could always sponsor me instead... Then I might say something different 😂🤣

​@@THE-AIDEN-PROJECT Everyone has their price....hopefully yours is more than a few sheets of insulation. I love your work btw. PS Celotex are the company that supplied the insulation to Grenfell tower...and they are scum sucking pigs (I am being polite!!).

​@@Sean006 pretty sure it was Kingspan

@@Tom_Hadler In fact both Celotex and Kingspan insulation sheets were installed on Grenfell. The main contractor didn't have a very good control of materials. They assumed that insulation from different suppliers had the same performance...which is an incorrect assumption btw (sometimes even in terms of fire performance). So I believe Celotex insulation was specified for the exterior facade of Grenfell....and most of it installed was I think manufactured by Celotex. But as you correctly said Kingspan was also used but I don't think it was specified by the architect. PS I may be wrong on which manufacturer's insulation was most used on Grenfell - it might have been Kingspan - but I am 99% certain that both were used on Grenfell (just in different amounts). PPS Again 99% sure that Celotex played fast & loose with testing results of their 'high rise' insulation. The public inquiry covered it in minute detail.

Haha true, although if you're paying someone else to board out then I'm sure you're in a position to not worry about saving a couple of hundred quid

I'd be tempted to go with wooden battens as it would be easier to tack the insulation board on with a couple of clout nails and then screw your plasterboard on from there

Sorry for the delayed response. Personally I would put wooden battens on the wall first using masonry screws. Then I'd tack the insulation on with a few galvanised nails. Then I'd tape the f out of it with silver foil because you need a tight vapour barrier otherwise you'll end up with mold behind the sheets. So all the edges, leave no gaps. Belt and braces use butyl tape where the battens are then screw the plasterboard to the battens. Jobs a gooden 👍

@@THE-AIDEN-PROJECTand that is the case, using insulated plasterboards where you already have wooden battens or construction does not make sense , but using it on the hardwall makes a lot of sense. Building the wooden battens on the hardwall also costs extra time and money

If you just insulate between the ceiling joists only then you can still get cold bridging between the wood and plasterboard. It's best to insulate below the joists with 25mm pir then just use longer screws for your plasterboard. I suppose it depends on your porch and whether it's worth going the full hog or not, would a little bit of cold bridging really make much of a difference? 🤷‍♂️

@@THE-AIDEN-PROJECT thanks pal. Can I dm you on insta some pictures to confirm what you mean? Thanks

@@wemoveforward6413 sure

@@peterpage7322 😆 oh come on, that part is a joke. You only need it backed if you're going onto solid walls etc, if it's a timber frame then you can save your money

The foil face of the pir counts as a vapour barrier. You just make sure you use aluminium foil on the joints. You don't stick them together, you tack up the PIR, make sure you mark out your rafters or joists as you go, then screw the plasterboard up as you normally do. You just need longer screws

@@THE-AIDEN-PROJECT thanks. Will check out your other vids now?

@@andypag1071 just corrected that above 😆 I meant the foil face of the pir not the plasterboard. Was in the middle of stressing when I responded 😅 you might see why I was in this week's video on Thursday 🙈

You can fix the pir with a few long clout/roofing nails. That just holds it in place. Make sure you mark out where the rafters/roof joists are. Then put the plasterboard up with long drywall screws, you need to be 20-25mm deep into the rafter to hold it well. I once had to use 100mm drywall screws, that was a pain! I also used a few tile backer board washers here and there on that one.

@@THE-AIDEN-PROJECT arr ok - I am doing it to the interior of external 9inch wall in bedrooms might need to think of a other way

@@StueeyB @Stuart Briscoe as in a solid brick wall? The manufacturers recommend you put battens on the wall first before the insulated plasterboard. So I'd go with 25mm wood battens fixed with concrete screws (sds drill) then as I've described above for the insulation and then plasterboard. You'll want to use silver foil to all of the board joints before you fit the plasterboard too 👍

@@THE-AIDEN-PROJECT yes solid brick, trying to minimise how much it comes off the wall it's only a.box room

@@StueeyB in that case maybe just buy the actual insulated plasterboard instead of getting it seperate if it's only a couple of sheets, then use the same technique as Ali Dymock ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-nSnbMsSzdXU.html

Think he can only claim it on the garage building, not the materials for the office above. Could you loose these invoices on the house build though?

Hey Nick, yeah Rob got it right here. For a 'conversion' or a 'new build' you can only reclaim vat on one outbuilding being the garage alone, not any office/guest room above. Unfortunately I can't sneak a few invoices into the main house build as it would be too obvious in respect of dates. If I was doing the main house at exactly the same time I could mix it up abit and slip in some extra invoices. Hey ho 🙃

What build up has he specified?

I've previously had 50mm under flat roof joists and just done the same, tacked the pir up with a few nails and then used long drywall screws on the plasterboard. You need to get the screws into the wood by 25mm. Anyway to answer your question I'd be going for contact adhesive, you can get 'industrial' stuff in 5l tins

I would probably go with industrial contact adhesive. I've never tried it though