Bit of a joke regarding new builds & sound reg.s when most party walls are total s**t & you can hear your neighbours all day , glad we"re in an old terrace cottage now - good vid mate :)
I worked at a hospital last year where they built a new Xray room. They had that blue colour sound proof plasterboard which I had never seen before plus they had lead lined plaster board which I never even knew was possible. The board sizes were smaller, 2 x 8ft and due to the weight it took 3 men to lift the sheets to prevent the plasterboard snapping under its own weight. Also before attaching the lead lined p/board, the chippy tacked on a 3" lead tape to the entire length of timber studs. This was to ensure no radiation was able to leak through the wall.
You can also get plasterboard with barium sulphate in its core which is xray resistant. 3 meter long 15mm thick fireline, sound bloc or duraline weigh about 56 kg each, when you spend a day fitting them you know you've done a shift.
Roger, Ever thought of adding a ‘Skill Builder Factory Visit’ to your channel? I think most of us would appreciate your take on how the things we use are made. Given the size of your channel the manufacturers would roll out the carpet for you too. The added benefit is when you know how stuff is made it means you apply it better.
Whitefields I did loads of factory visits when I worked for Professional Builder magazine. I always enjoyed them and there could be some mileage in the idea. I would start with a brick works but there is a lot to go at there. Thanks for the thought
Interesting how these things vary for different countries. In Australia the thickness are 10mm, 13mm and 16mm. The Yanks are big on their usual overkill, they seem to only know 5/8'' board - antique system of measurement as well. We also have an impact resistant board which I'm sure you have over there - it's called Impactchek here but would be a different name over there. Standard plasterboard has never been approved here for fire resistant construction - regardless of how many layers. Fire rated board is required - called Fyrechek here.
As I understand it sound proof boards are also fire rated the same as pink boards. Standard plasterboard can be double tacked to provide the same fire and sound resistance and has a much better u value. I would choose sound boards on all partitions and standard on external walls if cost was not an issue.
Good tip re: sealing plasterboard and filler if doing the tape and fill method. I’ve done this quite a bit in my house when dry lining or over boarding a ceiling and if you taper out the joint to about a foot on either side, and seal (I can recommend Zinsser Guardz) it’s invisible even with a raking light; matt paint will help, of course, as you say.
15 mm fire line plasterboard gives fire protection for thirty minutes . I am just finishing a fire proofing job on a 90 foot tall smoke tunnel in an apartment block. Whole thing had to ripped out and new metal stud walls placed on 3 steel beams. Walls had to be double boarded with 15 mm fire line plasterboard to achieve 60 minutes fire protection on the stairwell side and the smoke tunnel on the other side.
@daz374 the smoke tunnel has been completely stripped of insulation to the apartment walls. There are now no combustible materials in this tunnel and no fire can breach the tunnel. The fire wall only serves as an extra precaution for fire fighters as the stairwell is the only access to any floor in the event of a fire . There are new 60 minute fire doors on all the lift lobby landings . They already had a fire in an apartment on the eighth floor. It didn’t affect any other part of the building. And before any upgrades were completed. I was talking to a fire engineer from the fire service. He says fire brigades can make a response within 5 to 7 minutes. As long as the smoke and heat detectors are working normally fires will not get out of hand if proper fire doors are in place.
@@almilhouse9059 the upgrades are so people can stay put . The contact we have nearly completed was for a housing association for independent living for disabled vulnerable and elderly people . They all have a stay put policy. Fire alarm tests on all magnetic held cross corridor doors are carried out weekly. As long as all fire doors have fire and smoke seals. Evacuation is not normally necessary.
Love the channel Roger, thanks as always. I have a downstairs bedroom that shares a wall with the kitchen and after double skinning with acoustic plasterboard the sound has been cut way down. Great stuff but very heavy!
As a diyer I am greatful for videos like this ,doing a job in a bathroom that had leaks around the bath whit an overrbath shower ,bought the moisture resistant boards and am covering it whit Fibo panels as I cannot get a tiler and have zero tiling skills,hoping for the best .
All the big new build developers tile straight onto green board. Sound board is good but sometimes not necessary as normal board can pass the sound tests. Would be great if you could expand on this for all the different levels of fire protection from normal board to fire and sound board and effects and spec on how it is fitted.
I have always thought way too much drywall went into the skip! I am glad to see it being recycled although I'd like to hear more about what it off gases because gypsum is a natural mineral and in fact I have walk through caves that are in almost complete gypsum so it doesn't seem to me that it would off gas naturally unless it's something being added to it that causes it to off gas. Rodger I know in the US the thicker of the gypsum Boards which is closer to 5/8 of an inch is used on ceilings because being thicker it has less of a tendency to become bowed over decades and sag even though it is heavier than the half inch. Everywhere else half inch is used.
My builder provided grey boards which had moisture resistant written on it but it wasn't green. When inquestiones it he said that particular supplier's boards were grey for the moisture resistant one
Having to now seperate plasterboard from wall tiles before throwing tiles into skip is nothing but a headache. Try removing tiles that have been well fixed to plasterboard.
One 12.5mm pink board will achieve 30minutes fire resistance and is adequate enough for any domestic application where it’s needed to stop the spread of flame. Party walls must be 60minutes.
Hi Roger, 👋 I'm sure there is a yellow board too , which is an impact board used for corridors which is a lot tougher 🤔 😉 or it may be I've had too many rum n cokes 🤣🤣
Question: If I line the walls to basement with damp resistant board, and I'm going to use the paper tape over the joins, do I put plaster in the joins before placing the tape over it? After that, can I just paint the board with undercoat before applying the color paint, or do I need to use something else rather than standard undercoat? Thank you.
I recently did my loft dorma conversion and used acoustic windows. Used the pink boards as stated by regs 30min check. Then I was told I could had used blue boards to achieve better sound insulation as they are rated 30min check aswel 🤦
You are right and there is even a multi-purpose board that is sound resistant and fire resistant as well as giving moisture resistance. The trouble is that it costs three times as much
Is intumescent paint a viable option for protecting a rsj over a bifold in single storey extension, there is only about 25mm above the machined air vent slots and would like to add 12mm celotex + 1 layer of fire board to stop cold bridging as best I can, but thought 2 layers was required, cheers
Your video are always great 👍. 1:43 never know there was a leak. Wouldn't the water run up to or close to the wall plate leaving the space below with the leak, as it don't run into drain 😁
You wouldn't believe the price of plaster board here in Spain ...I tried to get something going from England thinking that I'd be laughing all the way to the bank ....not a chance .😂 Cant blame a man for trying
Don't bother mate. They have their own way of doing things and don't like or need change. Seen Brits try to do all sorts from damp proof membranes to tanking systems to felt roofing to gutters. Their philosophy is " So what if it rains and everything gets wet? Tomorrow the sun will shine, and everything will dry."
I never use green boards in bathrooms. People mistake the term 'moisture resistant' for 'water proof'. Although they're more expensive, hardibacker boards are a much better substrate for tiling on to. Almost every bad tiling job or insurance claim relating to a bathroom I've looked at has featured tiling onto plasterboards. Don't do it lads ...
The tapered edged board you showed at 2:40 min is not a standard UK tapered edge board but a "bevelled" edge tapered board which is not common here in the UK. The bevelled edge tapered plasterboards are used on the continent (mostly Germany) for taping and jointing where tapes are not used but only very strong extra hard jointing compound. "Rigips Vario Fugenspachtel" and "Knauf Uniflott cement based compound". Here is a video by Knauf showing the bevelled edge board system: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-3I3GasNSKAw.html
Hi Roger. you once mentioned while discussing waste with Robin that you can use the plasterboard waste as 'insulation' with in a 'brick veneer' cavity; I may have misunderstood what you meant there. Can you clarify what you meant. Would there be any point in nailing those waste plasterboard sheets to the bottom of timber floor joists when you have a pier and beam/bearer foundation, nailing the panels to the bottom of the joist to not only hold the lose Rockpool insulation beneath the floor boards but also help stop any updraft from beneath ones house. my dad was a kid during the Great Depression and he use to save paper, and rubber bands, and well, literally everything. I think he passed these habits onto me.
Hi Jude The point about the plasterboard was merely that it is now difficult to get rid of the offcuts so popping them inside the stud walls is a way of losing them and adding some thermal mass. It won't insulate the walls and it is a bad idea under the floors. By all means insulate under the floors but use mineral wool or PUR board
I’ve used ‘Siniat GTEC contour board’ for barrel ceilings. I double the boards and stagger the joint and it’s also tapered to facilitate a neat finish.
Can you put plasterboard directly under airtight membrane on ceilings or do you need to latt the ceiling first? Im tight on space and plasterer is fussy
Having worked in a large DIY chain for a while I can confirm you’re absolutely right! As the moisture board used to be in the racks longer even atmospheric damp caused it to sag and bubble up. I always advised people to use either Hardy boards or the newer pink boards which were similar to closed cell foam. Expensive though.
@@johna7075 would this mean when you come to re tile however many years later, that the boards would be ruined and need replaced also? What about sheet vapour barrier on stud walls then standard plasterboard, skim and tiles? Im not sure if sheet vapour barriers are for walls or just ceilings
What I can't understand with tapered boards is ... why aren't they tapered on the 4 edges , not just the 2 , wouldn't it be much better with 4 tapered edges 🤔
Yeah, the sound board will stop me hearing my mother in law taking a shii upstairs because the soil pipe is surrounded... 🙄 Just use standard board and insulate... If you're using damp proof board, you obviously don't trust your tiling... If water is getting through the tiles you installed, you've got bigger problems than the board behind 😂😂😂
Local authority, charge per sheet or bagged up off cuts, nearly as much as you paid for it ( what we are charged) or skip suppliers who agree in advance to take it.
Always the new guy is ordered to sand and eat the dust also it’s obligated to work the lower sides (walking on four) 2 reasons why nobody wants to work in construction !