I would be very concerned with trapping moisture between the plastic insert and the original window as presented, otherwise it is a very good idea. Two options to either reduce or eliminate the potential for trapped moisture problems would be to either drill a small hole in two corners of the plastic sheet to allow equalization in the created airspace, or else mount the acrylic panel so that is can be removed from time to time for cleaning.
I'm very interested in what you said "mount the acrylic panel", what do you mean by that ? I want to add another double glazed window to my sauna to improve it's insulation, if you have tips I'm all ears :D
I had one single pane window in a closet that turen the closet into an icebox in the winter. I add a double wall polycarbonate on the outside. It's been fantastic. I started this because this window produced so much moisture from condesation there was a constant mold battle. This has completely stopped it. If it proves to hot in the summer, it is secured with wingnuts so can be easily removed.
So what did you do with regards to the windows that open? These are the ones which could bring down the temperature after a hot afternoon using cross ventilation during the night.
You can cut a rebate into timber framed, double hung windows to fit a second pane but the added weight in some instances may cause a safety hazard. I'll be relying on heavy drapes with pelmets in Winter for windows that don't suit this method of secondary glazing.
thanks for the video mate, real informative. I guess the only issue is opening/closing windows so if you windows like mine, which are sliding windows, you can only do sections, which may defeat the purpose.
Instructions are poor but from what I gather, you installed it in such a way that you cant just take it off and put it on at will. You should use two part magnetic tape so that you can easily remove it in the mornings if you want to. Also, I wouldnt use the regular acrylic (assuming its just perspex). Go for the polycarbonate which is much more resilient and about 200 times stronger than acrylic and doesnt have a habit of cracking like perspex if it slipped out of your hands. A tad more expensive but much better and convenient if you did it this way
Thank you for sharing your experience with us as there’s many people who I’d imagine are interested in this kind of project. What with the energy prices rising and most older homes in Australia were not built with any kind of double glazing. We live in a 1960s brick veneer with draughty timber windows and the cost of replacing the windows with Double glazed ones is huge.We are considering a retrofit DIY secondary glazing to existing windows.The glass on the existing windows is 2.8mm thick lol
Used opaque perspex sheets to block light coming through a window and reduce noise from outside. Worked quite well. Thought it might improve heat retention and it did so more than expected. Was inexpensive and fairly easy job with the added bonus of lowering my heating costs.
Quote to double glaze eight windows to reduce traffic noise at my house was $23000. Am thinking the cost of materials using 10 sheets of acrylic or polycarbonate is under $4000 if i cut them myself.. the 16mm air gap is ideal for best insulation I am told. Am investigating further but going to install before summer.
Very good video. I would be interested what the temp of the window would be if you added a low e film coating to the acrylic. In addition a before and after blower door test to measure ACH at 50 pascals would be great.
Just buy your own new double glazed units and install yourself, it's easy. I paid 25% for a window compared to what a window installer wanted. As you do it all yourself you can buy 1 or 2 windows at the time when your budget allows, slowly completing the whole house. Buying acrylic sheets, etc. is all faff.
You say this like it's an option for most people, lol. Removing old windows and fitting new is a skilled job that requires a lot of equipment, especially if you are doing it above the first floor. It's not like doing some DIY decorating.
I am going to use cable channelling which has a clip-on top. Then I can remove the sheeting if I need to. Also, the sealed channel will improve the insulation at the edges and improve the appearance.
That's not a bad idea, but I don't know how easy it will be to remove. Let us know how you get on. If it does not work, search for "Magnetic Tape & Steel Tape Secondary Glazing".
@@steveandtedssmallspacegard8587 I am pleased with the results! As the cable channel has a clip-on side, I can remove the perspex part to clean it. Which is good, as on one window I left some plastic sawdust inside. I also added two small 'L' shaped hooks to the top the bottom to take the weight of the perspex and ensure it could not fall off. Important as my windows are smaller meaning the perspex does not rest on the ground. For me adding hooks also makes it easier to mount the frame as it rests in the lower hooks. The cable channel comes with double-sided tape already fitted, so I did not need to use sealant. I bought what looks like the same tape you use for the visible side to fix the perspex to the cable channel. Used use 4mm perspex which is perfect as my windows are smaller. Grab a flight to the South of France and I will show you the finished result! Thanks for your idea in the first place. www.amazon.fr/dp/B07W4KWCH8
@@user-pf5xq3lq8i Do explain how I'm supposed to post a video reply ffs Mt window panels have been up for over a year. I used two small hooks top and bottom to support the 4mm acrylic panels is used.
Thanks for your info. I see you used 4.5mm thick panel. I'm considering using 3mm for my windows. Is there a reason why you chose 4.5mm as opposed to 3mm? Thks
Hi Dave, the reason is surface tension. With large spans, you may get slight surface deformation with a thinner substrate. The thermal properties of 4.5mm acrylic are slightly better also.
I’m confused how this works Is the channel attached to the windows with double sided tape and then does the acrylic sit in the channel or just stuck to it with tape?
@@user-pf5xq3lq8i the tape is only 1mm thick and 8mm wide, so the difference in thermal conductivity of this and silicone is negligible. I do not know why you are talking about velcro, this appears to be your suggestion..??
And he didn't explain that acrylic scratches easy and only has a 10 year uv warranty 😂 cheap and nasty. Retro fitting ur old aluminum windows is approximately $500 a square mtr for a Glazier to do.
Absolutely no condensation to report on. Conditions have been +10 degrees of humid air inside with condensation on the single pane glass and no issues with the secondary glazed system. Air gap seal is key and I'll follow up with a performance review during Winter.
@@epheenergy I think it looks great & would perform well. Can you explain how you deal with the SLIDING DOOR that was to the right of the fixed window you "glazed"?
You can buy a tank of argon gas and drill two tiny holes at the bottom of the window (because argon rises compared to air) and feed the argon into one of the holes (while letting the air out the other hole); then plug both holes This is all theory to me; never tried it
Depending on the state or territory, this method of achieving double glazing breaches building egress codes. I hate to be that guy, but the codes are there for a reason. In the event of a fire or aggreviated robbery/assault, you don't want to be clawing at that acrylic sheet you just nailed into place. Sure I had somebody once say to me "then I'll just die", but you're making that choice for your partner, your child, your parent and anybody who lives in that property after you. Just don't screw or nail it in.
LOL Double Glazing works not because of two panes of glass! It works because between the panes is a inert gas Argon which has very poor conductivity of heat! What you're doing would be next to useless! You might as well just burn your money.
