Couldn’t figure it out. Couldn’t find any info in forums. Finally found this video, now it works perfectly. I’ve got an 88 Comanche with a 97 ax15 and 231 swapped.
Just installed mine in my 5-speed and I found out pretty quickly that I had this issue. The punch out tab worked great. I have to admit I was dubious about how secure it was going to be. After getting it installed and cranking on the bolt, I have no concerns at all. That thing isn't moving. Thanks guys.
We found with the 4-cylinder and a 5-speed things can get a little bit tight, but if you need we can send some photos of how others have installed them successfully.
We just tried to make our kit the one that fit the most XJs. Its worked! Which is why our kit is now the only one to carry the Jeep name and the mopar M 😎
THANK YOU SO MUCH. This video saved so much frustration. I'm going to run back out to the garage and get this unit set up properly now. I'm so happy you made this video thank you.
Bought STOCK 1999 Cherokee off 88yr old man who NEVER used 4wd! I'm near 60- read intructions & crawled under it with few OPENend wrenchs & saws -all. 38 min. later.... DONE! GREAT product!
I feel like this issue needs to a note in the instructions. Glad I found it in the faq, but I sure messed around with things far to long. 93 4.0 5 speed 2 door. Thanks for adding that tab and the video.
We re-did the instructions recently, and it should be in there, I'll go double check. Unfortunately we have to gate keep some things because of knockoffs.
@@Azzysdesignworks perfect. This was a genuine kit from you guys. It just mentioned a 5 speed video up top and the link was brother. Had to go to the webpage but it’s all good :). Going the og route is always better than Chinese knockoffs.
@@Potatogambit I checked this, and it's mentioned in both the Mopar and ADW versions of the instructions. If you received instructions with stills from the install video, thats the ones they are sending out with the knockoffs, and they dont understand the needs or installs, since they only copied it from photos.
@@Azzysdesignworks well I hope I didn’t get a nock off since I ordered from you guys lol. It just had a link to 5 speed setup video. And the link came up with video not available when I looked it up. Had to do a little hunting for this one. I’d be happy to send you the photo. But like I said I figured it out in the end. May have just been an old stock unit.
Thanks a ton for this fix. 97 4.0 5 spd. I was wondering what that laser cut was for ever since I saw the product online. I was going to ask about using the top hole instead but figured the geometry would be off. It was. Also I found an extra jam nut in my package. It came in handy for spacing out the rear stud on the rod because it was touching my t-case when inserted all the way. My upper link barely touches the t-case also but doesn’t interfere with detente. Thanks again
This was VERY helpful, thank you! I have 1993 XJ with the AX 15 5 speed and NP 231 transfer case. Attaching the lever the normal way was very tight, and caused the shifter in cabin lift slightly for 2W high, even with turnbuckle all the way in. Using the tab and changing the angle + running turnbuckle out resulted in the desired form and smooth action fit. My only caveat was that I had to bend the left tab in almost completely back to flat with body. to get lever to bolt on well.
Our intent on the left tab is to allow the act of the tightening of the bolt to make it "bite" in, and give another point for the upper lever to hold, but something I will take into consideration on any future revisions. Thank you for the feedback!
Like Randy Freese in the comments I have a 96 XJ with a 5 speed, used the lazer punch out as described in the video and installation was a breeze, and my long standing transfer case popping out of low issue is gone. Only thing I wish I would have done is order this sooner!!!
We've seen some .. interesting layouts on some years, particularly 1996 XJs. But thats why we came up with this system, to make our kit fit the most options and varieties of XJ :)
That is one of the biggest benefits of our kit. The factory setup on an XJ is connected to the trans tunnel, and when the body flexes offroad, it can (usually will) pop you out of 4 low. We do recommend on any Jeep tcase to pull the detent out of the bottom drain and clean / replace the spring (if damaged) as they can get gummed up and not keep the selector shaft in the right gear.
It’s this kind of care for what you do that got you a sale. I bought a knockoff on Amazon (didn’t know the history), had this very issue with my 5 speed manual, and found your videos explaining the product and where I was going wrong. I just ordered one from your site (under the same name as this comment, so you’ll see I’m not joking) and will be returning that other junk off brand later this week. Even if that other one would work, I’d rather support locally, and with someone that actually stands by what they make. Thanks for your dedication to your product! I do have a question though, and maybe this only pertained to my junky one, but I noticed that the part of the linkage with the three holes hits the housing of the transfer case, and is super snug to where it feels like it could pop out of 2H. Is this normal?
Mike, I remember chatting. thank you for this, I really do appreciate it. On the question of the lower plate : over the years we've had a few customers mention it touched. We think this is just due to variations in the casting of the transfer case bodies. The real indexing happens with the detent (see our video on cleaning that here ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-IoaF88uJ4ak.html ) and you will feel this at the case when adjusting / installing. If it is still touching and not going into gear, let us know. -Bryan
Our kit works with the 242. However, with a drop on that t-case, the range can extend past the point where the linkage has no mechanical advantage (goes straight) in this event, we recommend using a second upper link plate (available in our store under spare parts) and use the top hole in our lower linkage plate. If you are using a tcase drop, be sure to use medium duty (commonly blue) threadlocker on the center adjustment rod, as drops tend to relieve rear vibrations but put a lot of stress on the front driveshaft leading to vibrations there.
Our linkage is adjustable, and we also sell spare parts which could be used to adjust to your custom need. How it would need to be installed for your application would be dependent on how you installed everything, condition of the vehicle... but there is enough adjustment there, and especially when using the setup in the video here, with our 242 kit, that it should be easy to get working in that XJ. www.azzysdesignworks.com/shop/hard-parts
Your transfer case has a switch that controls the light. Its common for them to be bad. It might need replaced, the wiring checked, or your grounds fixed.
Yes. Current stainless steel prices have had our stock low for about a month. Because of that, its a bit harder to invest the capital needed to run a batch of linkages. We have some supply for our dealers, and are working on a new supply run now.
@@Azzysdesignworks thank you for the quick reply. I have a 1991. My friend helped me install the linkage a while ago, and it’s been screwy ever sense, I was just wondering if he put it on correctly 😂
The TL;DR version is I am trying to re-start production without past financial resources, and not risk my family's home while doing so, and while trying to keep the doors open with product we do have in stock. Im trying to get them rolling again, just hard to do solo while keeping the lights on.
Without seeing how your setup was installed, its hard to suggest anything. Have you tried contacting us? We dont usually search through comments sections.
@@Azzysdesignworks Nah, I’d rather try to make things work instead. That’s why I also wrote the solution. Might be because mine is European? Works like a charm now tho.
I also tried to install their original xj linkage on mine (european 2001 with ax15 and 231J) but whatever I tried I couldn't fit it...the middle link is too long I think it should be good if I make the thread all the way to the middle and then cut approx. 10-15mm of thread at both ends
Have you contacted us other than on YT? We dont get alerts about these and only check comments every so often. Send over an email with a picture of how it is setup, short description on how the jeep is setup (tcase, trans, drops if any, etc) and what issues it is having past not working.
With an XJ, that's very uncommon, unless there is a motor / trans swap or a lot of drop. But, nothing would stop you from flipping the upper lever around and shortening the length needed by an inch instead of increasing it by an inch.
3 года назад
Hey guys I got my Azzy's transfer linkage hooked up and got to try it out today. IT WORKS AMAZINGLY WELL! I love it and want to thank you for the fix, good job guys. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-geLcIhBjZsw.html
