Once rtv is applied both pieces need to be put together right away ( rtv instructions) then finger tight bolts until rtv is slightly squeezing out. Let set 1 hr, then torque to spec. Following rtv instructions really works 100%. God bless and enjoy.
I like how the video shows removing all the other snap rings except that heavy duty one. That thing was a pain in the butt to get off the original shaft and 10 times worse to get on the new shaft
What you need is "horseshoe ring pliers" proto's part # is 250G. You can find these pliers also by searching for "special lock ring pliers". They have knurled surfaces to spread the eyeless lock rings.
Great vid... Turn the speedo sensor to another position and while transfer case turns freely ajust it also make sure sensor seated well ..u can feel the senson tick when engaged
awesome, I finally find the official AA video, great job, planning on doing my install today and this helped a lot. might want to put jeep in the title though, it was difficult to find this
Yes, the large spring is on the rail and gets compressed when the rear of the case is bolt back on. However there is one other one that also comes to mind. We can email you a picture if you need it. send us a PM for email info since posting it to the video comments is prohibited.
Did your installation require the step of pressing out the needle bearing cages? If so the lubrication system on those shafts are different than the style that we build. This will not effect the performance or have any adverse effects on the lubrication properties of your transfer case.
Is there a reason you left the oil pump off when you first put the case back together? Why not leave them connected so you don’t have to use that little pick to attach the two?
When I opened up my case there was one spring sitting at the bottom of the case and one was on the shift rod. I'm assuming that the second spring probably fell off the rear of the shift rod when I was disassembling. Correct me if I'm wrong please.
Where do you buy the star seal, no one at the auto parts knows what I’m talking about? I’m also having bearing noise from the cage bearing, chanted the fluid, just keeps squawking at low speeds, goes swat after driving it for awhile… also if the transfer case is in nuetral I try spinning that rear yoke, I have to spin it and it doesn’t spin freely, like the bearings are shot
Had a shop do my SYE. Drove 467 miles in one month and now it is stuck in 4 Hi. Tried driving slowly forwards and backwards while shifting into 2 Hi with no change. Disconnected the linkage and tried shifting the transfer case manually. No change, still in 4 Hi. Question: If the snap ring holding the gear in place on the shaft is not correctly installed, will the gear move out of position and cause the transfer case to be stuck in 4 Hi? The linkage is not the problem.
On the off chance. I am installing Advance Adaptors SYE arrives from Rusty's tomorrow. Started disassembly however my snap ring pliers are (expensive) shite! What brand is being used here? can be seen at 01:30. They look decent. Are they? Thanks
I had the same problem. For anyone wondering, what you need is "horseshoe ring pliers" proto's part # is 250G. You can find these pliers also by searching for "special lock ring pliers". They have knurled surfaces to spread the eyeless lock rings. You can do it without them but it's a real pain.
hi i installed my kit today and i have a concern with the new shaft i fitted all seems fine for now after driving it today .. but the old shaft had a oil feed hole to supply oil to the gears that where swaped over and the new shaft does not have a oil feed hole for this point it has other hole where the planitary splines are if anyone could let me knoe if this is normal of if i am gioing to soon have a permenat 4wd due to gear running dry on shaft and sezing ?? thanks
Hello I just installed one of these and cycled through all positions to make sure the shift rod was short enough. The shift rod would hit the new tail housing and bind if it's too long.
Foof50 I used a 3lb sledge hammer head to stop the yoke from spinning against the transfer case casing. However something wood would be the better option as it's softer than the aluminum casing.
Much easier to just disassemble the oil pump and realign and stick the tube in. It’s how they did it at the factory and trying to do it with a little stick is some nonsense
