I watched this vid because I couldnt see where 0 degrees is on the plate, so THANKS! this vid helped a lot!! Also, in case anyone reading this has a '95 TBI, the EST to unplug is under the glove box and not in the relay cover (because there is no relay cover on a '95!! Thanks again :)
Same here , the plate on my 92 Astro is to rusted to read but it's the same design . I stopped the video and drew a picture of it with the numbers . I'll keep it in the van.
I have a '94 that I've had since new and found that the factory timing at 0° was a bit laggy and found that about 6° btdc and good fuel helped the throttle response, hp, and fuel economy. I've been getting 15/16 city and 19/20 highway mileage ever since. I'm not sure, but I think the factory setting for the timing advance in the ecm was a bit slow to advance, and possibly why this helped. It would have been interesting to dyno before and after to see the difference, but I didn't think of that until after, but I can tell you it made a huge difference. I have 123K on it now and it still runs strong.
I just want to add that you are correct the timing wire is normally underneath the hood except in the year 1995 where it is normally found underneath the glove box for Chevrolet trucks.
I've been wondering where that timing plug was. 1993 S10 4.3 vortec. Now I might be able to set it by a method other than estimation. Thanks for the video.
Estimated Friend: thanks for your info, very helpfully , and i want to know, how you connect your truck whit your PC thanks in advance attentively Lucio Garza
rebuilding a1990 suburban engine running great i like to put a small cam but don't now what size with out haveing to change computor or do i iput a shift kit in the transmission hitting great but i want to hear a little thump old school hot rodder help
thanks for the hint on the software ....good video thanks for the help! got a copy that is more than the average freebie tanks a bunchie!!!perhaps give a buck or two for the effort and help we all cna use
i know there is no vac advance. but if the ditributor rotor never changes position in relation to the cam what compensates for that. does it have weights and springs under the cap?
I believe that the TBI electronics controls the advance. Now electronics can delay timing but cannot advance it so the advance module most likely fully retards the timing in default mode and that mode is used to set the timing at TDC for example. The advance module then advances the timing using commands from the TBI computer. There is NO VACUUM advance on this engine.
my 92 k1500 305 tbi has predetonation i think has a rattle as if i have it in too high of a gear have electronic timing advance, runs alot better in base timing. not sure what it is i replaced map,temp sender,coil,and about to do the knock sensor any ideas?
ok so first does this truck have the distributor with the 2 plugs on it and the remote mounted coil? and if it is all controlled electronically how does it advance? because the rotor on a normal hei is move around by the vac and mech advanced. but this has none so how does it work if the rotor is always with the shaft? im quite confused. a pm would be greatly appreciated.
To be such an old vehicle that base timing reading with your light looked dead steady, like there's no slop in the timing chain or distributor shaft/gear. Most of the ones I see that old will be jumping around due to the slop. Did you replace the timing chain on this already, or tighten up the distributor gear?
Hey, I wanna ask you a question and I know it might be a crap shoot without seeing the vehicle but I am hearing a hissing but only when I put it under load. At flat throttle it doesn't make the noise. Is that detonation? I bought my 92 and it already had a crate 305 in it but I'm still working bugs out. Any help is appreciated.
The 5.7 tbi needs set at 0 with the advance wire disconnected. Turn the engine off to disconnect, start and set to 0, turn off again and reconnect. Then start and the computer takes over from there.
On a 93 350 5.7 tbi,is the distributor supposed to be turning side to side abit? Had the engine switched and im changing out the cap n rotor and noticed it spun abit.Its not moving up or down cause its bolted down(single bolt).Anybody know about this?
i have a question. I found and downloaded the WinALDL software but I need the cable to link my computer to my truck where can I purchase it without having to buy the software on CD?
I think that is WINALDL. It's a pretty old program. I think you can probably get it to run on a newer laptop. You need an ALDL cable with USB and you need to make sure that WINALDL supports your ECM.
I too had the issue with not being able to read the numbers and marks. Had a bunch of gunk built up on it that i rubbed away with my fingers. Once clean i took a permanent marker, and scribbled on it, then rubbed it with my finger again, the numbers/marks then where perfectly visible :D
hey i got a question. my 91 350 tbi. pops backfires runs like shit. when it stalls i notice thick blackish smoke comes out through the throttle body, it started out with a lil constant pop. then progressed until it barely runs. and stalls, its getting good spray at the injectors. and it has alot of spark.
I had the exact same scenario happen to me just the other day… for me it was my gas sender/pump filter but the comment is 10years old so I hope all is well
I would like to know how to up the timing on a GM 3.1 lumina ,can anybody teechll me how,im in the process on buying a mastertech scanner ,I race street stock and trying to get more rpm coming out of the corners please help ,with any advice
You seem to know these trucks well, can you perhaps help me getting my girlfriend's truck straightened out? It sat for a long time because of a no oil pressure situation, deep motor problems. Fixed it with a long block. It runs, idles, and drives, but had severe part throttle drivability problems that after online research sounded exactly like descriptions of EGR valve issues. I eventually found the O2 and MAP and EGR were all in bad shape, and also that driving through their issues had fooled me a little bit: it seemed to run well wide open, making me think it was okay on open loop operation but not closed. After fixing all those sensors and resetting the timing (which was causing hesitations and bucking at highway speed due to knocking, the static timing was WAY overadvanced) it became clear that it was not an open vs closed loop issue, but instead there is a "wall" at 2200 RPM. Below 2200 RPM is runs like a dog. Above 2200, it runs great, regardless of throttle position. If you have any advice it would be greatly appreciated. TPS has been checked and shows correct voltages, likewise coolant temp sensor shows correct ohms. I'm sure the 2200 RPM wall is significant, but not sure where it's trying to point me.
My 93 1500 just doing the exact same thing I've replaced all kind of stuff it still has a bad stumble right off throttle about 2200 rpms does anybody have a straight answer for this
Travis Bane Hey Travis, I still haven't solved the problem either, I've read some stuff that makes me think it might be worth trying changing the pickup coil in the distributor, but I'm sick of part swapping and hoping. If you find a solution, be great if you could drop me a message and let me know what you found. Thanks.
I have a 95 k1500 4x4 when pulling a grade at the moment of shifting into passing gear the truck will jump,buck and miss untill you force it to shift into passing gear then its fine. i have checked all plugs and wires i even had timing checked any ideas john
what if,when u unplug the timing senseor the truck dyes.....i did everything u did in this video...but it wont stay running once that senseor is unpluged??????....idk what else to do..
If its a 93 Camaro with a LT1 v8, Free scan should work, Its for 92-5 OBD1 LT1 Camaros, Caprices, Corvettes ETC. You need a laptop and a ALDL obd1 USB cable to use it.
I have a 1989 chevy c1500 with 5.7 tbi. It's starts up no problem runs perfectly normal for a few minutes then stalls UNLESS you touch/have your foot on the gas. I have changed almost every sensor ignition module full tune up. Does anyone know what it can be?
alright. 91 4.3l. set the timing at zero with the timing advance unplugged. tighten down the distributor. double check(still at zero.) shut off the engine. unhook the battery, plug the connector back in. wait a couple minutes. hook the battery back up and start the engine. the timing advances at least four degrees every time. ???? what is it doing?
94 cheyenne runs perfect but when it's time to check timing (disconnect the tan/black bypass wire connector)start it up engine idle starts to surge up and down the timing is at zero no body knows why this happens
Thank you! I keep hearing "0" too but my 1995 tbi runs like crap there. But at 6* she runs smooth and it restores the power, especially at take off from dead stop.
Amigo tengo un motor 350 Chevrolet tbi recién echo el problema es q en frío marca más de la mitad el medidor de aceite y luego viene callendo a 0 cambie bomba de aceite otra ves y nada quite el tapa válvula y apenas medio le llega aceite más no sale a chorrito le hice servicio al radiador cambie aceite nuevamente y nada. Ayuda q puede ser..??
im 35 year mech,ive never had more trouble seting timeing on chevy,its jumping all around,it runs like shit,ive had truck three years,new engine,last month its been idling up/down,stalling
joseph pincus check your map and cts and your plug wires my 94 z71 and my 92 s10 will do the same thing almost every time it's my plug wires and remember new never means a good part i would also check the plugs and see if it's running rich or lean
after replacing,all sensors,reman dist.,reman throttle body,it was the fuel pump !!!! i should have put it in in the first place,i just didnt think it was the pump,because it ran,what an ass i was,,,,,,
Ok what the hell are you doing that nets an L05 87-95 350 TBI to get over 14 let alone 20. I'm not calling bullshit I want answers like how I can get from...9...I have bad issues. Like certain rpm like converter stall rpm hiccuping like EGR, it timing issues I got a old style obd1/2 monitor and maybe a FEW THING THAT COULD BE OFF all technically inside spec but it's really not that simple usually it's something on it's way out best off unplugged open loop if you can find it. So shorten this up a 93 Blazer K1500 (K5/2 door tahoe). It has 202k miles. Plugs looked worn but beautiful, prev owner put a unknown reman or new dizzy in it, fuel pump, tank, sending unit pickup ring filter all new steel lines and brakes except the trans cooler lines, new stock exhaust with cat delete. The damn think makes you smell like 2 stroke like you went on an all day classic snowmobile run lol it gets awful gas milage and the few things I notice strange 0-5 volts tolerance is the barometric pressure at 4.88volts...I has map reading but I'm guessing it does that function as well and...its bracket is loose from a probably replaced manifold gasket job so maybe that's doing it but I got over 20.2 degrees advance and idle and it can chug at startup cold it sounds like I stuck a heavy summit racing RV cam in it! With the lid flipped it has a strong hissing sound more than any other tbi engine ever and I've owned 8...from 2.5 fieros to firebirds to suburaban and 92 93 94 blazer all else looks normal. I have my 3 suspicious possible culprits but if anyone can read this and know what's going on you'll make my day! Thanks, Ray
At 202k miles, there is a very good chance that your timing chain is stretched to the point where it is too loose. This would retard the engine timing and make it even more difficult to get decent mileage.
there is no user timing setting available for a 1999 gmc yukon,tahoe! it's all done inside computer right??? any elaborations out there Chevy buffs, GMC PROFFESIONAL GRADE BUFFS LIKE ME!! 5.7 /350 SMALLBLOCK 4 EVER,THE DUMBEST THING GM. EVER DID WAS DICONTINUE THE 5.7/350 SMALL BLOCK..BADDASS. MOTER, PLEASE BRING IT BACK
Great job!! One question i have though. When i disconnected the advance connector and set it at 0. Then put everything back together to verify it (plugin back up the advance connector), I notice the mark goes way up, to the top. About a half inch above the metal mark indicator. Is this normal? The engine sounds like its running smooth though...
I have a 1989 chevy c1500 with 5.7 tbi. It's starts up no problem runs perfectly normal for a few minutes then stalls UNLESS you touch/have your foot on the gas. I have changed almost every sensor ignition module full tune up. Does anyone know what it can be?
Next check would be timing, carb clean, plugs (gapping), wires and cat converter. Just starting on smaller issues and climbing up the money ladder. Hopefully something on the cheaper side.
