Just wait. They will come. Replaced rotors, bearings, shocks, spark plugs, antifreeze line, catalytic converter (became detached) and rear wheel. It now has 98k and the transmission is slipping. Bought brand new in 2017. Problems began at 50k.
biggest issues ive had with my 2014 are the hub and bearing assemblys, magnetic disks keep getting destroyed from road salt, ive replaced all 4 twice in 8 years. Had the water issue with the taillights, chevy said they had fixed them...they didnt they put the same exact ones back in. So i did it myself and havent had any issues again. Air intake boot cracked twice. Steering wheel does 'creak' all the time when turning right but it hasnt caused any issues just an annoyance. otherwise i love the car, had it for 10 years got a 160,000. I am noticing the transmission is going....
Hi my camera sensor is out , side detection mirror sensor reverse camera any suggestions how I can fix the problem myself Was going to sell my car and they told me the transmission is slipping.I have the same mileage in the same year as you do
I can confirm about the exhaust leak issue. Just traded my 2015 Impala in. I had to have that fixed TWICE. The new part also cracked after 1 year. The ultimate reason I got rid of the car at 112,000 miles was transmission problems.
I have a 2019 Premier. Taken my car to 12 shops. 2 transmission shops had my car for 3 weeks. Car slips on 2&3 but not all the time. When tests are ran everything looks fine. Just got it back again yesterday with a IDK.
I have the same issue with the 2 to 3 shift. took to two dealerships and they found nothing. Took to the transmission shop and they replaced the transaxle with a used one. Still have the same problem.
Torque converter. It’s going to go out soon, even if u get it tuned. Mines started going at 78k and it’s a common problem on these. That, the purge valve, water in trunk from the taillight gaskets and ac will all act up
You forgot about the transmission problems its start slipping after 100k miles Transmission lost communication module u0101 You have to change the module and its cost about 500$ . ac compressor after 130k miles starts blowing normal when ideal or when you live in hot country ABS and traction light after 150k miles you have to replace bearing hub .
I have a 2016 Chevy impala LTZ with over 160k miles and I thought it was a transmission issue. I still don’t know what it is but even when my car sit in park it jerks but it’s even worse when I accelerate. I’ve had my spark plugs replaced and transmission fluid replaced nothing works.
@@lariianbroomfield6643 I have a 2016 Chevy impala LTZ with 90000 miles and it do they same thing, I got a tune up and everything and the transmission fluid was change at 50000 and 90000 so it’s clean and I have no codes as well
@@lariianbroomfield6643 if the engine is jumping while you’re in park, then it wouldn’t have anything to do with the transmission. Sounds like it’s coil packs or maybe fuel injectors?
Dang! I have a Crystal Red 2014 Impala 2LT that I just got through paying off. The only issues so far are the water leakage at the rear lights due to the bad gaskets, I bought them but haven't put the new ones on yet. The AC blend/actuation doors for the AC. Blows air only through the window defrost vents, cold on the driver's side and hot on the passenger side. Then the driver's seat switch that makes it go back and forth isn't working. CD player has stuck CD in it that it doesn't eject. I may have to replace the disk brakes. Other than that, at 95K miles it looks new and runs like new.
My 2014 Impala needed a RR hub at 96K, that exact exhaust leak at 106k and now my purge valve is starting to go at 119k. Other than that, the cars been excellent and i do all the work myself in my shop and get good prices on parts so it hasn't kept me from enjoying mine. Also got a unlimited drivetrain warranty for if the trans goes and I just follow my service contract.
I have 80k on my 2014 ltz limited. Only issue so far has been a repeated issue with camshaft position sensor. (Not dirty oil) 1st one wrnt out @ 65k. Now 80k and its doing it again. Oil, not low, 80% life left. Gets great gas mileage. 28-35 highway im averaging combined 24mpg. Thinking of getting newer car before the dreaded 100k mark, but $50k for a 4 cylinder dog?
with camshaft position sensor (and crankshaft sensor) it is wise to buy top notch/good quality parts. I have a nissan altima 2.4L/4cyl and bought both cam/crank position sensors 4 years ago, replaced both myself. Noticed a nice improvement in idle, acceleration, mpg and overall smoothness I bought the genuine nissan sensors from the nissan parts dept. I get on my nissan automotive online forum and i read up on how others got all cheap with buying Ebay/chinese/low budget cam/crank sensors and then complain about either issues got worse or no change. Eventually they ewent and bought the correct nissan sensors, installed and their vehicles ran great. So make sure if you keep your Impala, use the GM parts or the aftermarket approved equivalent oem that has a great reputation with no issues.
2014 chevy impala lt fleet at 262k miles seems like every month i have to fix a new thing i love this car and even with maintenance it still works like a charm but im coming to terms that it may be at its end life cycle
You probably got a bold batch of e-85, run it out, fill up with premium. The computer will correct the air/fuel mixture. It happened to me about a month ago, haven't had an issue since
Mine hasn’t had any issues really but i am having one now. I have a 2017 and it’s making noise behind the front right tire. I’m getting it sent off tuesday but I’ve been driving on it and haven’t had issues yet. When i turn right it goes away but when i turn left it does the same thing. The sound doesn’t kick in until about 16mph and it doesn’t make noise when i’m idle/stationary.
I had the same sound issue as you described. Repair shop told me there was a stick stuck near the wheel. The refused to charge me for removing it. Hope your issue was as easy.
I have the 4 cylinder with 165000 on it it always has the p1006 code and ive never been able to get it to go away other than thats ive had no probems orher thar things due to my fault like hittkng a curb and having to replace a part ive had vey little m mechanixal problems with it and i was even km a preety good accident and had it repaired on my own dime its been a quality car
look into replacing the PCV valve. Clean the throttle body ( google the correct way or you may do expensive damage). Other things that may or may not be causing the issues are bad oxygen sensors, bad cam and crank position sensors. A simple fix might be to buy a bottle of Marvel Mystery Oil and follow the manufacturer's direction, add 2 to 4 ounces to either your crankcase or fuel tank, go for a nice long drive on the freeway . Google the marvel mystery oil or youtube it and determine if it may be beneficial for your Impala.
This helped me in my 2015 merc e350. Same stuttering when accelerating, bought 2 liqui moly injection cleaners and added them to half my tank of fuel. Make sure your air filter is very clean and get a straight and less busy road. Keep a constant speed of 75mph to 85mph. Do 4 runs back and fourth. And any blocked injectors, fuel filters or cats will clear up.
2015 impala don't like to start when it's hot out. Had it scanned this time it said. Code u0101 lost communication with TCM. Code u0109 lost communication with fule pump control module. Code u0100 lost communication with ECM Code p069E fuel pump control module requested mil illumination. Code p0700 transmission control system requested mil illumination. It's been to the dealership twice and 2 different shops new battery and replaced the computer
