The 327 has always been near & dear to my heart . 307s are plentyfull & people dont want them so use the crank from a 307 put it in a 350 block & you have a 327 & you can use the 350 rod but you will still need the 327 piston. THX.
Thank you for the education on the 327 engine. I once had the opportunity to purchase a 327 for a 1978 build in the 80s. I passed because I had just purchased a 350. I wish I had purchased it. They were not asking very much. I verified with the numbers, it was a true early model 327. I wish I had that engine today.
The 327 is easily the best old school small block ever built. I will ALWAYS build a 327 before I'll build a 350. They rev SO much better than the 350 that the slight loss in torque is WELL worth it.
Great Videos, I really like the in depth explanations, which explain the physics, cause, and effect of all the different variables that go into tuning an engine
Always very interesting!! I want to point one thing today that you probably haven't hear very often and it is the quality of your language. You have a very good English whit a perfect pronunciation. It adds to the value of your explainations. Thank you!!
Still running my small journal 327 crank in a brand new 4 bolt GM block with spacer bearings on the mains. The other thing that most don't know is every small journal 327 crank was forged from the factory.
Max Brouggy I know I really miss my 62 had 365 free flow heads 11 and a 1/2 to 1 pop ups port matched everything crane 228 232 at 0 50 cam badass ignition system in a 2400 lb truck. Nothing like it. Until you build a Stout 383 pisses you off makes you wonder why you wasted all that time on that little 327
I'd wondered how the spacer bearings held up, sounds like they do, thought about doing that myself since I have a 4 bolt block I could put my extra 327 sj crank in.
The journal size was increased in conjunction with nodular cast iron crankshafts. The small journal cranks are all forged and are stronger than the large journal cast cranks.
Thanks for Sharing the Video... I had one of those two year only 327 that was my first engine builds at 14yrs old... That was over 40yrs ago... It landed in a '66 Chevy II post car my first Hot Rod. I beat all kinds of cars only Central Ave. here in Phoenix. Good Times
Glad you mentioned the SB 400. They were notorious for running hot in the summertime with the air conditoning on. They were not very economical either. They did not like hard running at all. I had one. It sucked. And not just gas. An old fashioned mechanic told me 'Never before has so much hot iron tried to cool itself with so little water'.
Have to say I'm loving your channel. They way you speak and describe things is perfect. Don't know why but I've always loved the idea of a 327. Here in Australia the common V8 growing up (25 yrs ago) was the holden 308. 4 inch bore, but a small stroke. The chev guys nearly always went 350. There were a few 307's kicking around but the unique bore size meant that there weren't too many compatible parts kicking about. I'm starting to source parts for my build, and I think I might go 327. 350 block (maybe a later model roller), with a 327 LJ crank. I also believe I can use 5.85" rods with stock 350 pistons with this combo. Should be a nice bottom end which will handle some revs.
Love the content craig. Im not banging on people, im just amazed at how much information has been lost that used to be common knowledge about small block chevs! Glad you're clearing some things up.rod & main journal sizes changed but ROD LENGTH STAYED CONSISTENT at 5.700.All GM did was moved the wristpin location on the piston! Exception: 400 sb wich is 5.565 for cam clearance. 327 were a fave for pro stock racers for many years the rod angle is the best of any sbc.Also if a guy is hellbent on a large journal 327 build and needs a crankshaft dont overlook the 307 as they have the same 3.25 stroke. 69-74. I used to get them given to me for free all the time! I started out collecting/ building/ selling 348- 409s as a teen in the 80s when nobody wanted them. Been in the game a long time craig with restoration work for both Henry Ford & Sloan museum so im not just another yahoo out there, when I give info it is sound proven and trusted! Keep up the great work.
Thank you for clearing up the air on the 327s. We got last year a 327 that my husbands step dad gave to him. He thought it came out of a 69 chevelle wagon, but after he ran the true numbers it was out of a 1968 camaro. So he is looking to build that engine eventually.
I have a '67 2nd design crate engine, bought new in '73 NOS, that I have had in several vehicles. It may find its way into the '55 Sedan Delivery now that I have retired and have more time.. Good Vid, Good Channel. I'm subscribed. 67YO retired male in rural Colorado.
Nice explanation on the 327 - I have a 68 Camaro with the original 2 bolt Large journal 327. Interesting about the 327's in '69 where block casting #3932386 was used for the 302 (DZ motor) - there were 2 versions , supposedly - 2 or 4 bolt. The DZ of course used the 4-bolt one.
Love your channel. You have great insight especially for the amature like myself. currently building my first motor from the ground up 400sbc. done the top end several times but this will be my first bottom end. I've watched your videos and tought myself some very basic for you but nessecarry steps. just want too thank you for your channel and dedication too education people on the inns and outs of engine building. do you have a contact for details questions?
I'd definitely appreciate an in depth video on the 400, I had one in my pickup and it was a beast. still have the engine and plan on rebuilding it soon. I've heard about overheating issues though I never had that problem. I've heard the cylinder walls are thin due to the large bore and I've heard they have extra water ports but it would sure be nice to clear up the patch work of Info
The cylinder walls arent thin, its just that they are siamesed, so they dont provide as much surface area to the cooling water. Smokey yunick did a good job explaining the differences and what they mean regarding cooling and bore concentricity as the engine heats up.
hi - love the vids buddy.i have about 50 steel cranks for sj 327 as well as lj 327s. i hear the large journal ones are getting very hard to find. in addition i have many steel cranks for 283s and 302s. i also have a few bb chevy steel cranks for the 396/427 engines with cross drilling. if you ever need any of these i will sell them on the cheap. i have what i need and theres plenty extra. keep up the good work and i will keep enjoying the vids. take care Don
You can also use a 307 crank with a 350 block to build a 327 large journal. But I 'm sure you know this but for some reason nobody talks about it. Keep up the great info.
We run 350's every Friday during race night at 8,000rpm, using standard mains and journal sizes, the valve train is more important at those speeds than the bottom end is. We had a small 400 in our 72 Caprice, it was a good little engine, in my opinion though it can't hold a candle to a 383, and they are so easy to make now and are cheap to build.
In highschool I built a 327 from a 4 bolt 350 block and a 307 crank witch is the same as a large journal 327. 327/350 cam, 327/300 intake with a 2in spacer. Went in my 70 malibu. Those were the days.
Good info. The 67 302 was produced with a small journal crank with a 2.300/2.000 main/rod journal diameter with a 3.000 stroke and a 4.000 bore. The 67 302 cranks were basically 283 units and the blocks were small journal 327 units. That changed in 68 and 69 which were large journal cranks and blocks. Also some performance bearing manufacturers produce special bearings/spacers that allow a small journal crank to be used in a large journal block. The smaller diameter journals lower the bearing surface speed, reduce frictional loss and lower oil temps in high RPM operation.
Awesome videos man I like the way you keep it clean! One thing I would like to point out is the 302 sbc shared the same crankshaft as the 283 sbc I used to de stroke 305 Chevy engines that would rev quick and high using the large journal 68-69 283/302 cranks, noted they were smaller bore than the 283's which gave less cubic inches so it made for a lighter top end weight, I had to use a different connecting rod length though because the pistons set low in the bore, I used 305 truck pistons and 62-64 cc heads because the 58cc heads didn't flow enough air when you revved it up high, I did it on a whim just playing with parts to see how it would run, I have to say I was impressed with them! I've since moved on to Pontiac engines and I am very satisfied now, but those were some low budget days filled with good memories and friends that I'll never forget! keep the videos coming and I'll keep watching!
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I have a 1967 C50 Chevrolet with a Chevrolet 4 speed, reverse to the left and to the seat. The engine is a '68 (I believe) 327 with the "two tall towers" heads and a Two-Jet Rochester carb and points distributor. Always wanted to bring this old truck back to life.
I understand that there is a bearing kit available to run small journal crank in a large journal block. I have a Std forged 327- 365HP crank and rods that I am considering to build using a 350 block.
Finally it’s clear on 327’s! Hope you can do a thing on 400’s destroked to 377 or a 350 stroked to 383! The advantages or disadvantages of these two combos! Thanks great viewing! New follower after the 305 one! Awesome 😎
If you have a 400 use it along with some good heads, they make a lot of torque and don't need to be turned up any more than 6000 rpm, they make great street or baraket engines, by the way, use 6 inch rods in it.
Great information. thank you Myvintageiron7512. Ive learned a thoughtfully built small journal Chevy 327 engine can rev to 7500+ RPM (just over 4000fpm) and make potentially around 500+ hp or 1.5 hp/ci., a 6" rod 327 will have a 1.84 rod ratio and much less side loading of cylinders than a 5.7 rod 350 or 383, allowing more rpm. a 383 stroker with 5.7" rods has a 1.52 rod ratio. Im currently (jan. 2020) re-building the original 67' small journal 327 (3892657 casting#) for my 67' Camaro featuring some special parts like AFR cylinder heads, ISKY hydra. roller valvetrain, custom 4032 Auto Tec 10.5 comp pistons, thin ring pkg., 6" SCAT rods, GM forged steel crank (GM P/N 3782680). Should be a good experiment, i had a 383 3.75 stroke engine for 20 years, looking forward to much more RPM.
I didn’t get it on the engine Dino but it is in the car (67 Camaro T56/3.55 gear)running very strong it pulls hard to about 7200 RPM that’s where I shift(1st gear), I’d say the combination is probably good for about 500 hp at 7000 RPM I’m planning on getting on a hub dyno soon, i’ve been having issues with mechanical fuel pumps lately, but it is an awesome combination.
I have a 1970 Chevelle 4dr. daily driver with a 307 , I am building a 66, 327 Small journal .030 over flat top pistons molly rings Comp hi energy cam with pretty much stock specks on 110 degree center lime for a wide power ban for a 700R4 auto trans. Will be using 882 casting heads and a factory aluminum intake and Q jet carb. I will be adding block huger tube headers and I am hoping this combo will give me good mileage & pull a good sized trailer with out issues in the Chevelle. And yes
My brother bought a 350 from a engine shop I have a 1984 El Camino with a 283 L79 cam and he backs in next to me and pops the hood look my 350 I look at it and it has the vent in the back. I said no you have a 283/327. He traded for a 350 for his 71 RS and I get a 1967 Corvette 327 with a L79 in my El Camino now. 700r4 3:73 posi carbon fiber = fun ride
small journal 327 cranks were forged steel ;) and this 1965 Chevy II I bought has a factory 300 hp 327 in it. The blocks casting number is 3790721 and its a 2 bolt block. Im building it for NHRA Super Stock SS/I class with a 4 speed. NASCAR engines use the 400 bore (4.125 inches) and the 302 crank (3 inch stroke) because they rev out to 9,000 - 10,000 rpm and stay together. Im not a fan of 400s and these long stroke small blocks. Ive burned more 383s and 400s with a 283 or 327 than I can remember. A 350 and 383 are good street engines but the shorter stroke engines rev faster and higher and are much better for racing purposes. I love your videos BTW!!!
I have a block and heads cast in mexico and accorging to what i found it was cast in 1988 and yet its a 2piece rear main and has the same lifter valley as 305 roller engine has the bosses for the roller setup its different than any ive seen but i think its very well cast and is potentially better thanthe post or pre 86 american cast blocks
I have a very nice running 817 400cid that I'm installing a retrofit Howards roller cam in topped with some very nice big valve 291 heads. My original ass. brackets won't work now. I need to bolt the power steering bracket to the block but my 400 block doesn't have tapped bosses on the drivers side. How deep can I drill and tap the existing upper boss and lower face on my block given the cylinder is 1 inch closer on the drivers side? I would like to keep it mounted lower for a nice clean look since my alternator bracket is installed tight and low on the passenger side. I'm running with the original long water pump. I'm also running headers this
by the way AMC/rambler made a 327 first and was kind of as hot rod motor for it day.. 327s installed in the 1957 Nash Ambassador and Hudson Hornet models in that it uses mechanical valve lifters and a higher compression ratio. Since both engines were rated at 255 hp (190 kW; 259 PS), it is probable that the Rebel's was underrated
Hi; I have a 327 with casting number that says its a 1964, but the block has no serial number. When i got the block it had a 30-30 cam and solid lifters in it. Also had double hump back heads. My question were there any 327 blocks manufactured without serial numbers??
That sounds good but they went larger diameter for the crankshaft overlap. The 302 could be made by putting a 283 crank in an early 327 block but the cranks would crack under extended 8000 rpm road racing stress. If you go 2.100 on the rods and 2.450 on the mains the overlap is substantially better same as the 400 versus the 350
Thank you for ALL OF THE INFO in this video. I recently was given a 327 that was left for dead in a yard. I was told that she knew nothing about it and I could have it for just hauling it off. I'm confused by a lot of its components. The block stamping has TII29R stamped on the pad and the casting number is 3782870 on it. I believe that means it was built Nov 29,1962 for a full size car with a manual transmission. The crank has a 030R/010M stamped on it along with notches ground out of the front lobe(balanced???).The heads are the Power Pack (3795896) heads. I'm trying to decide whether or not to rebuild it. Any input on whether my son and I should rebuild it to put in the 69 nova that I also removed from the yard. The nova doesn't have a title so it would be a track car only.
hi i have a 67 gmc 327 and was going to put the 400 heads 882 or take my stock 174 valve heads and replace with 194 i guess i would have to put hardened seats in the older heads as well.
Good info. I recently purchased a YW 327 that the seller claimed came out of a vette. WRONG! It was more than likely pulled from a school bus. Small journal mains with 1.72 intake valve's. And my machinist is trying to sell me a 350 stating the parts are cheaper. I think now ill keep the 327. Thanks.👍
Thanks for your reply on the Topic I’ve always heard this as well and seen it with a 400 personally does drilling the steam holes into the cylinder heads help relieve this issue at all I don’t know of any aftermarket heads that came with them ? Or is it more to do with the Siamese bores ? Love the videos it nice to see someone who actually knows what they are talking about to share knowledge and experience.
I'm building a L79 short block. It has low mileage so I'm using the original 11to1 pistons but I have changed the rod bolts to ARP bolts and main cap bolts to ARP bolts also! I'm putting my Dart Motown heads on with a Isky solid lift cam and a Victor jr intake and a 750 turned into a 825 cfm Holley which I followed the instructions from the Holley carb book! It going into my 66ss Chevelle and it has a muncie 4 sd with a 12 bolt and a brut strength carrier and 4:88 Chevrolet gears and a Zoom clutch! I have a 11to 1 350 sb in the car and it ran mid 11s! How much slower do you think that the car will go with the smaller motor? I also had a 69 DZ 302 short block I could have used but that was a Big drop in cubes! Btw the 302 is for sale if you know someone???
Thanks for all the good information and videos. Is there any way to visually confirm (without looking at casting numbers) whether you are looking at a 350 compared to a 327 installed in a vehicle?
Is there an easy way to tell the difference between a 327 and 350? I recently bought a '57 Bel Air, and the engine #V03040MN is one or the other, and I can't tell which. According to the "MN" in the number, it's either out of a '67 Camaro (327) or a '68 Nova SS (350). Thanks!
When looking to buy a bare 327 block I don't know the numbers on the front yet but on the back casting number is 3914660 there is light surface rust how do I know it's a good block ?
I have a 66ss Chevelle and I'm just about to drop a L79 sb 327 all the way down to the steel crank and I've added a set of Dart Motown heads CNC Ported victor jr intake ported a 750 turned into a 850 isck solid lift cam and Muncie 4sd with a 12 bolt posi with a Zoom clutch set up!!! The block had 21000 original miles so I didn't bore it and went with the stock 11to1 pistons and rods but I did change the rod bolts to ARP and the mains now have ARP studs with a windage tray!!!! I'm hoping for low 11s in the Quarter mile what do you think?
I have a question I have a 69 327 in a 84 Pontiac trans-am that me and my father were doing for a project, he passed away 2 years ago so I'm finishing the car. My question is were these engines internally balanced or externally balanced? My engine has a vibration during acceleration and I was wondering if its possible to get rid of the vibration, maybe a fluid dampener or possibly another way. Thanks in advance
Do you think a 327 should be used in a 66 c10 longbed with 373 gears if I just plan to use to tow a boat every now and then? I already have a rebuildable small journal 327 and thinking about rebuilding it? The machine shop said I should go the crate 350 route since it has more torque for towing, but I thought some c10 came with 327's.
First off great informational videos and I'm happy to support! I had purchased a 73 k20 years back and was told it had a 67' 327 with 350 heads I still have not ran any numbers to check if it's a 327. As for what I got in your video only 68-69 327's were inter-changeable with 350ci and not pre 68 or is it just the internal block components for 68-69 327ci that are same as 350?
I have a 327 block casting 3914678 and I don't know what to do with it (guy I got it from thought it was a 350) so looked the number up and I see they used these blocks for 302, 327 & 350 so I check the stamped code on the front and it comes back to 1968 327 from a Camaro, the cast date on the block is 11th month of 67 so would this be a 68 with the bigger journals? I would rather just use the parts I already have for a 350 if I can do that. Thanks
Hi i have done a little change on my 327 small journal from 1962 i have in my impala The thing is i put in a comp cams kit 270h magnum and change stock quadralet intake to a airgap speedmaster with a edelbrock quadrajet carburator with a spacer 1inch it seems i lost a lot of power what do you think i whent wrong? Thankyou
So will the large journal make the same rpms as a small being that the stroke is shorter than the 350? Or is a 327 from 68 and up make the same rpms as a 350?
Also wich combos are for a good performing 327 engine? A guy told me to use the combo i just mencion but i havent notice good changes it drives good but its like slow worm with the stock parts it wasnt so performance but i give gas and wheel burn i little so thats why im confused
L79 was the king 327 but in mid 60s the heads with double hump on front usually meant factory 300 HP. And they rev nice and quick. If i remember correct factory numbers were 365 on L79.
HI. I'm the owner of a 1967 chevy chevelle 4 door hardtop with a 327 275HP motor in it and I have a question about gas. Here in France it is not possible to find leaded gas any more like in the USA I guess. So the question is : Do I have to put an aditive in the 98 gas I use in my chevelle to replace the unexisted lead or can I run the motor using the gas straight from the service station? Considering that I don't have the money to modifie the engine valve seats what would be the best solution of course. There're 2 schools here, some guy says "Oh, you can use the gas straight from the pump, you don't use your motor intensivly enough to do any damage to it". Some other guy says that you have to mix an aditive with the gas unless you are going to damage the valve seats. Anyway I use the aditive because I don't want to take the risk to damage my motor (they way more difficult to find here) but I'd like to have an objective awnser to that question. Thanks for your awnser. Thomas.
Found a 1967 Nova SS 327 2 speed in a 1929 barn, bone stock rightdown to 595 cfm carb. 94mph in first gear @ 7000rpm (bent a push rod one a run) 0-60 6 secs all day. top speed 141mph.
