Just a quick note on this issue, It is very possible to damage your steering column and airbag when taking apart this unit. it is very important that you DO NOT rotate the steering wheel at all when this part it out. this will damage the clock spring and render the airbag useless. also this part may be keyed, and can only go in one way, when I put my new one back in, the steering wheel always wanted to turn left on me.
Craig Seyber--- I know this video was a while ago but what do you mean by it being "keyed" and it made your car always want to turn left? I recently got my intermediate steering shaft installed and after i got it back the steering wheel was off center. I had it aligned and now it always wants to pull left even though multiple places have checked the alignment.
@@goaliewnnb1 they just didn't line up your intermediate steering shaft when removed and reinstalled. Pretty easy fix if you watch a couple videos on "installing an intermediate steering shaft" on your vehicle, you will figure out pretty quickly whats going on.
I've had the same issue with my 2007 Saturn Vue. It has the same electric steering motor mechanism model as the Cobalt does here. Thank you for finally sorting this problem out for me.
Iv got like 5 inches of play in mine left to right same thing car pretty much has a brand new front end now and today the steering locked while turning I yanked it so hard the gear spun right around so now my steering wheel is up side down so not looking forward to changing great video
Thanks Yes this helped tremendously. I'm working on a 2007 Pontiac g5 , all new frt end and still , rattling and clucking. But not chewing tires. Thanks again
Is that the power steering column? Looks like you can get that with the motor used on eBay for around $50-70. My Cobalt rattles a great bit...sounds pretty much identical to this. Thanks!
Funny I commented here 2 years ago and still driving around with the rattle lol. I need control arm bushings too and maybe some other stuff who knows. I can't keep rotors on the damn thing either. Have the brembos on mine. They warp in maybe 10k or 20k sometimes like that. Doesn't take long. I have tried every single type of rotors except the big brake mod. But yeah man these cars are decent but some of the plastics used like wtf. What a mess.
got a 09 cobalt with 161k miles and been driving with the loud rattle between 50mph and 65 mph over 7 years now. I know no one will buy this car with this stupid rattle, so I'm driving this car into the ground.
I have a 2008 Cobalt SS and noticed a steering wheel or column knocking sound going slowly. I hear it mostly in the parking lot at work going slowly over rough ground. I also have a really bad steering wheels shake when coming down from high speed and getting on the brakes. The rotors and pads I just put on and are all premium products. The wheels and tires just got balanced too. I don't see any bushing or tie rod issues or anything like that.
@IT'SME Hey there just saw your comment I didn't get a notification just came back to this video. I still have the steering wheel rattle will get to that sometime it isn't horrible. I'm still driving with those same rotors they are absolutely toast now they wobble at any slight touch of the pedal almost. I will check out the brake lines that's a good idea. I was thinking there's no way I can go through rotors that fast there has to be a caliper issue. I always had a spongy pedal no matter how I bleed the brakes. I found the stainles lines on zzp's site maybe i'll try those. You know what I found out one time too this sounds ridiculous. I stepped on the brake pedal with my left foot and I almost hit the dash lol. It seems like when the pedal is touched from the side just slightly it engages that sensor maybe and gives it the beans?. Like serious brakes probably what it should be. So maybe that sensor is faulty too?.
@IT'SME The sensor must just be for the tails,park and cruise disengage then. I just know if I side step that pedal it has full stopping power more so than a direct press with the right foot. It's very strange and I've only done it late at night on a clear road. I couldn't believe how hard it stopped. I found 3 options so far for stainless brake lines for the lnf. They are all a bit pricey but if it fixes the warped rotor issue and spongy pedal I would be very happy. It would still be nice to figure out the rear e brake issue but I have tried everthing except maybe a stronger spring. Even new calipers it still ate up the pads. New cables as well. I was going to say my car is pretty much rust free I have undercoated it since new so it still looks very good underneath. I know what you mean about the hoses looking alright but not being ok I get that. My car has that loud suspension noise too when it gets cold. Sounds like a rusty leaf spring on a old car or something. I usually spray the shock tower opening with some silicone spray and it stops it for a while. All my bushings look brand new as well no cracks no breaks nothing.
@IT'SME It came to mind because of what you had said. Hoses can collapse. So either they are fine or they are not and stainless would be a good way to go. Would be better than getting a new set of Brembo's no doubt.
mine makes that rattle when apply the brakes steering wheel will wobble here that excat sound from passenger side of car or the center mine has 230k miles
is there a tutorial anywhere on how to remove the steering column? Is there a large Through-bolt that goes through the tilt pivot point at the end? Thanks
the gear isn't worn...if the gear was worn, you would see the wear debris inside the gear case. What really happened is that the lubricating gear oil leaked out into the power steering motor and now the worm gear and nylon gear are making noise because they are dry. Add some type of liquid lubricant, (Lucas) to the case, reassemble then the noise will disappear...no need to replace the assembly.
hy craig am getting the same rattle underneath my steering wheel on rough bumpy road. when the car is not in motion jiggling the steering wheel i get the same annoying sound. Thanks man i'll check that out
I am having similar issue with my cobalt 2009 lt. No mechanic was able to diagnose whats going on. Last guy asked to change whole streeing system. I wanted to know until i change this is it safe to drive like this? Kindly anyone .
Would this cause a vibration when the car is just going straight down the road?? I'm new to front wheel drive cars but mine vibrates when it goes straight you can turn it very slightly to the left or right and it will stop vibrating. I just replaced the hubs so that's not it I know how they sound roaring and it's not tires I've changed tires and rims too. So I'm thinking either this problem you have, a strut or CV axle. It feels like the driver side tire is jumping up and down. And after you drive it a a few miles it doesn't shake as bad like I said idk anything about front wheel drive cars any input would be helpful.
@@arashikumo7593 my rattle got better adjust the steering shaft, pull it down a bit, b=good rotors and tires almost no rattle in my 2011 HHR, it was pretty bothersome at first
I have a 2013 Kia Optima. The rattling is very noticeable while going over speed bumps, or riding on rough roads. What is the part that I need for someone to fix this?
The KIAs and Hyundais use a small rubber coupler that looks like a star gear between the motor and gear set. The rubber wears out with use and requires replacement. There is a manufacturers extended coverage on this part and will most likely be repaired free of charge.
was the noise more noticeably after letting the car rest the entire night, and the following morning with the first movement of the steering wheel you could hear a loud knock??
I have this problem and was told It's the Steering shaft and Rack and pinion, Because the steering wheel doesn't center itself, could this be the issue??? I need a reply..
Is this something that is necessary to fix or simply a quality of life kind of thing? My Chevy makes a noice while steering that seems like it could be this but the actual steering is fine in my opinion
It's fine just the noice sounds bad.. won't hurt anything or fall apart when driving...I drove so long with it like this that I don't even notice anymore
Hi thank you for the input but i have an important question cause my g5 is doin a simular issue on the high way no matter how hard i hold my steering wheel straight it feels like the car is goin from side to side i had it alligned i had my link kits changed .... and still the same probleme ... anyway if u have an opignon it be greatly apreciated thanks
Thank you for the comment. As far as I know, this rattling issue does NOT affect steering or control in any way. If your car is swaying back and forth, it might be a more serious issue.
I’ve had a rattling problem in mine for a while but I’m planning on taking my car on a long trip....is it safe to drive it long distance with the rattle?
I got the rattling noise the 9 years I've owned my 2010 Cobalt, along with the intermediate shaft clunk. Motor was replaced even before I bought the car and overall steering is fine.
@@4acrehome168 would this issue also be eating front tires or knock out of alignment or anything of that nature, im in the process of replacing both struts as i thought that was my problem for the alignment changing and the eating of my front tires after a few hundreds of miles
not only the wheels shakes with bumps and such but also shakes the front end of the car and after struts this would be the only thing in the front i have not changed or have had changed
@@littlebrotherblake i don't think this issue would cause it to be out of alignment. As far as I can tell, this is only a minor issue causing the noise, and it was really bad maybe could skip a tooth and the steering wheel would be off center. But this wouldn't cause bald tires
Hey I'm 90% sure this is the sound I am getting, 06 cobalt w 180K miles can you watch my video the noise starts at 17seconds and helped confirm? Am I understanding this right this is not a safety issue as much as an annoyance? imgur.com/gallery/pO56aIU
