I have all new rotors, wheel bearings, calipers, pads, rubber lines, rear drums, shoes, hardware kit, adjuster kits and wheel cylinders ready to go. I even got new clips for the rubber lines. Still waiting on some odds and ends and speed bleeders so I can bleed the brakes myself but I will be jumping into a full brake system rebuild on my G20 soon and your videos have been a nice reference to double check everything I have to be sure there are no delays 😂
I watched you working on the steering and now I see you with the brakes. You mentioned in the last video that you were new to doing this and for that I'll give you a lot of credit. Too many people are scared to work on their car themselves and here you are diving and getting it done. I've been doing this kind of things on my own cars since the 1980s but I love when other people realize they can do it too. The hardest part is trying. Because most people won't even do that.
Try disconnecting the hose from the steel line. If you get fluid coming from the steel line, then you know the rubber hose has collapsed internally. It's not uncommon for that to happen on old brake hoses.
Dude my girlfriend and I were able to swap out our front brakes and rotors on our 95 G20 after watching your video and it was such a huge help! Thank you so much for putting this helpful video together and for SHOWING THE PART NUMBERS! That was a huge help! We cant thank you enough dude!
I’m actually working on my G30 now so these videos are super helpful! I might go ahead and replace my brakes and steering linkage after watching these. You should do your upper and lower ball joint too so I can see how they’re done :).
Glad the videos are helpful! I’m contemplating on either replacing only the ball joints alone or pulling the trigger and replacing the whole arms. The latter might be a bit more easier from the looks of it..
Thanks for this video....have an 85 chevy g20 motorhome that needs new brakes after it locked up on me whist driving.....scary. Difficult to find some bits here in the UK but great info for parts numbers etc
I read somewhere that you could use the same rotors from the c2500 to swap your G20 to 6 lug front end without spacer/adapters. Then you could open up and run different wheel options. Allegedly the rotor is the same in every way but with 6 lugs.....supposed to be able to stick with all the same calipers and pads and yadayada.
Now watching the video to the end. I have the same issue and it's the abs unit. I have an ols abs unit from a pick a part but I'd rather put in something new. Have any ideas?
Okay, My issue was keeping the brakes in place while putting the caliper on, but anyway.... Proper technique for setting the bearings: tighten it snug, then back it off 1/2 turn, spin it back and forth, then tighten it snug again, then back it off 1/8 to 1/4 turn.
Just found your channel. Watched the radiator video and now this one. I saw a g20 for sale in Tx and was thinking of getting it. the owner says the radiator leaks. came here to see how to change it out. Thanks for the detail in your videos! . Too bad your in CA or I might have asked you to work on the van if I end up buying it.
Hi, thank you for making this video. It has been very helpful. I was wondering though, if you could tell me the size of the 3/8 allen key you used to open the caliper. We have a hex bit set but not the right size for this job. Thank you!
Im not sure to be honest, but I do have a sneaky suspicion that there might be one that might be compatible from a different model. It would just be a matter of cross referencing part numbers.
Non ABS will probably fit BUT you will have the ABS light on on your dashboard most likely since the ABS rotors have a ring in the back that the ABS sensor in the backing plate picks up signal from. Hope that helps!
This video features parts of heavy duty package available on G20 vans and larger vehicles, including some Fords and diesel trucks, commonly referred to as hydro boost brake systems (with ABS). Uses power steering hydraulic pressure instead of the "light duty" vacuum for the brake booster. Hydro boost utilizes larger bearings on a larger spindle and as this video shows has a wider somewhat flatter bearing cap than the rounder but smaller circumference fit on a smaller spindle on G10s and various other 'lighter duty' vehicles including most G20s. I'm not sure about G30s and G series RVs. The rotors are supposed to be thicker to help dissipate the heat to give longer/better life to these systems components. Same calipers pads and lines can be used. PS pump completely different. PS reservoir has 2 rubber lines, 1 to PS pump, 1 to brake booster. It goes- brake pedal- connecting rod- fire wall- hydro boost brake booster- master cylinder on my 94 G20... If any info needs to be altered or added please do so bcuz I'm learning while revamping my system after I couldn't keep up with or find power steering leak, ran it dry for too long and ruined my PS pump but van showed me the leak as soon as I started it by spraying PS fluid from the hydro boost brake booster around what is supposed to be where a piston inside, looks like mini oil filter on side of booster. meanwhile no power steering and very soft brakes until I install a good hydro boost booster that will not leak PS fluid under pressure. Sorry about the time spent to read this summary of what took over 2 years to finally figure out. Supposedly this system been around since the 80s or longer. Hopefully some brain scratching and alot of bad language can be bypassed by others with the same scenarios I'm going and have been through. I'm signing out. Time to pick my 'hydro boost' brake booster~ can I just call it hydraulic brakes¿ =No! The PS pressure doesnt run the system, it's an assist aka boost, bye
I have a 95 Chevy G20 V6 engine I've been trying to identify a problem when driving and when I accelerate I hear a washing machine noise any idea what that could be
I'm working on my g30 van 95 model got the same problem driver side brake line no fluid coming out barely did you figure out if it was the line or not?
With all your new bearing in was there any play at all with your rotor or wheel? Mine after a very light tighten down mine still has very little play. Does that mean my bearings are bad?
What kind of play? Wheel play can be caused by a few different things. Was there play before you replaced the bearings? Make sure everything is installed and sitting in properly and bearings are packed and installed correctly. I didn’t have any play after replacing bearings but I also replaced all the arms and ball joints so that also helped. Hope that helps! 👍
@@losmerosvera I was checking the wheel bearings by grabbing the north and south points. I recently replaced the outer wheel bearing on the driver side bThere was still a little play in it. I was unaware of any play at all until I took my van to get the wheels aligned. I also just replaced lower ball joint and ball joint on the steering. The shop then said my wheel bearings were shot. I was confused and jacked the van up later that day and there was major play. Took the tire off and popped off the wheel hub cover and saw my castle but was extremely loose. Which was weird because I had recently put it together in which I’m very positive the bearings and everything are sitting right. Both wheels were very loose I just tighten the castle nut on both. My question is are my bearings good? They have very little to no play
