Chevy GMC Transfer Case Rebuild What To Look For Pt 1 

Hey Brian, I have some pretty good up and down play on the rear driveshaft to the transfer case. When I kinda hit it up while in the transfer case, it sounds like a metal on metal clink. Is that normal?

@@luamayav4 by v8 go. 8⁵

Sorry to be offtopic but does any of you know a method to log back into an instagram account?? I somehow lost the account password. I appreciate any assistance you can offer me

@Rene Aldo Instablaster :)

@Dylan Otis Thanks so much for your reply. I got to the site on google and I'm waiting for the hacking stuff now. Looks like it's gonna take a while so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.

You're too kind man. I'm working on part two today to post tomorrow morning. My goal is to fill in some tips and tricks that help folks get through the tougher parts that cause hold ups and hang ups.

​@@briansmobile1where is part 2?

I love that idea period. I'm definitely inspired. I don't even yet own a slide hammer, but the vice grip attachment looks like a reason to pick one up for sure.

Welcome Michael!

Welcome Joe!

Thank you, I will

$1300? You got robbed you could have bought a rebuilt one for like $1100!

@@marcowens3522 You could have just rebuilt it yourself for $300 in parts. You got robbed!!!

@@mph5896 sure I could of but I didn't have time to rebuild it and more like 400 to 475 to rebuild it.

I. Except

Mnk

Call

So will ultra grey RTV work?

Another 1999 Tahoe says hi! I love mine. It has 153k. Used to be my daily (actually weekly) commuter alike yours. Now it is in semi retirement. I take it out for the occasional trip. Plan to take it for some nice vacation trip this year. Just have to figure out where. It has been a great vehicle to travel. I can't think of a better one. Well, maybe an 8.1 swap with a 4L80. That would be sweet. Just a dream.

I'm glad I could help! And thanks for the feedback. Have you been able to get it done yet? how'd it go for you?

@@briansmobile1 Thank you for chiming in and asking. Well, here is the short version: The transfer case is done. Here is the long version: I used a new transfer case half, even though the old transfer case had NO holes what so ever. In fact I found it to be in really good condition (@153k miles). So good that I actually regretted having opened it and kept banging my head in the wall thinking "if it ain't broke don't fix it". First problem was that seeing that, I started brainstorming if I should even use the already purchased magnesium case half or just reuse my old housing and put everything back together. I got the new magnesium housing for a very good price, so I was considering taking advantage of that. But then again - huh. I found that I had a little wear, but only at area of the clip. I believe approx. 1mm of material was missing. So that meant that the Merchant Automotive unit would ‘ride’ on 3x legs vs. 4x, with one leg being ‘in the air’ by about 1mm. Essentially the forces would be distributed to 75% of the area vs. 100%. So I ended up doing some test fitting of the Merchant Automotive unit in the old case and the new case. New case won of course hands down. I also tried to determine the case wall thickness by measuring the outer area and comparing that against the inner part. It looked like the case wall is slightly thicker at the clip. To my estimation it is 3-4mm thick. The other 3x respective areas appeared to be around 3mm. And that is exactly what finally made me decide to use the Merchant Automotive part. Because the way I see it, otherwise, with the old case the way this is going to go down is that the currently 3x area where the pump ‘legs’ are ‘riding’ are going to wear down as long as all ‘legs’ are going to be able to carry the load. So the Merchant Automotive part would eventually wear in and in this case wear into the case half to some degree, until all or enough legs will carry the load. So the transfer case is done. As far as the actual work goes, yes, I had some hiccups along the way, but in the end nothing too serious. I have since thoroughly tested the vehicle. Transfer case shifts through all modes and there are no suspicious noises. Before putting things together, I have checked for integrity of the sensor hole depth. Actually I have checked same value on the old transfer case half before disassembly. I measured on both old and new 32.4mm on both sensor holes from the O-Ring surface to the gear tooth top land. I ended up reusing the encoder motor gasket. Its built in o-rings looked far better than the ones on the new-aftermaket gasket. This new one would have needed some trimming in order to clear certain spots of the transfer case, which would have been an easy fix, but the deal breaker was that it even had some badly aligning (almost aligning, but just not quite aligning) holes as well. So Amazon refunded it. I did not replace neither the input shaft gasket nor front driveshaft output shaft gaskets. I was already way behind schedule and did not want any additional potential hold up. I figured the input shaft gasket is lubed from both sides, so how bad could it be. A little potential seeping between transmission and transfer case could not be the end of the world was my reasoning. So I have left it alone. Fingers crossed. Removal of the baked-in silicone was at first rather challenging. But then I came up with a really nice method, which I like to share: I have used a multi tool with green kitchen scotch brush pads, which I cut to pieces. I greased those with some transmission assembly lube, so that they does not create or shed any particles. I needed new pads every few inches as the pads would load up or the abrasiveness would diminish. No problem, they are cheap enough. I was able to rotate them 180 as well, so each pad got 2x passes. All in all it worked like a charm. So well, that I probably would not even needed to cover the transfer case internals. Also so well, that this is now my preferred method for removing gaskets. No rotational flinging off of grease either. Wonderful. Bolts was another brainstorming event. I chased all the threads and wanted to install new bolts, but then I cheaped out thinking I am already spending way too much money on a "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" job. So I said the hell with it, I reuse my existing nylon covered bolts. Which were, well not so well nylon covered any more. So initially I was thinking to clean the nylon off of them, but it turned out to be way too time intensive. In the end I left it as is. I used some thread sealant for the threads and a hint of Loctite blue. (By the way, I checked and BMW N52 inline 6's use magnesium for the upper and lower crankcase. Porsche has been using 1968-1977 Magnesium Case Halves as well. But apparently not without problems) When I have assembled the transfer case halves, I have managed to mess up my first attempt. I made the classical beginner error. And YES, I totally knew that I was making it, but I kept on doing it anyway; I put too much RTV. I kept telling myself, it was OK, let’s not worry about it, factory over did the RTV as well, plus many other people are doing the same mistake too and are probably just fine. Then after it was all done and all bolts torqued I got uneasy and said screw it, I am not going to leave this like this. So I have redone the whole damn thing again. Of course this set me back once again some considerable time. Having to remove all the uncured RTV and cleaning everything again. But the second time I got it pretty good. Only a thin bead of RTV seemed to have been pushed out. Oh, just before case halves assembly, I have managed to drop my damn magnet. Great. It fell to the floor and went up in pieces. So another setback. Especially with all eBay sellers that had it being located on the east coast, me on the west coast and so hence long standard shipping times. But luckily I was able find it at (would you have guessed?) our local Home Depot. Home Depot Part #96604. OD and thickness exactly the same (1.75 x 0.25 inches), ID about 1/16 larger, but who cares. It is a strong magnet and Home Depot hat it in stock. Final assembly of the transfer case back into the vehicle with no issues. Overall I am very happy how this project came out. Thanks again for all your advice in the video!

Yours is a good angle. I am glad I am reading the comments and found yours. Following your comment made me thinking, the 2-piece design is may be even more forgiving during installation as far as abrasion damage goes. In this case as shown in he video, there is a large rough area that the seal has to traverse upon installation. Sure well lubed, but still. Also and this is just another thought, the 2-piece design may be even more prone to self cleaning. I think this, because I would expect the rotational forces to move small contaminants within the sealing area eventually towards the outer area and hopefully eventually drop outside the sealing area. Vs. some regular seals are made in ways that they have sort of a dual lip to trap grease, but contaminants too. Anyhow, just my thoughts.

Thanks!

Nobody puts Alaude in the corner dang it! Except Alaude of course.

sadly awaiting the next vid!... whether thats good or bad thats on you

That's a good thing. It means I'm happy ; P

Willa Herrera back when his hair was reverse. All on top and no beard. Think...how many guys had bald heads and beards who listened to Jovi and Def Lepard? Now how many with long hair and zero beards?!

Go get a Irwin strip bolt removal kit from Lowes or homedepo. Or find a buddy w a welder that can help ya. Or if your in a bind grind the bolt flat on 2 spots to get a new movement point ... Replace bolt.

Nice! Thanks for the tip!

You may be able to drain and save the fluid. Then clean the hole w. brake cleaner and put this → amzn.to/2RBAFhe on the bolt to seal it in.

Absolutely it can. Likely the U-joints or driveshaft balance weight had an issue. If you can take your driveshaft to a driveshaft shop close by I'd have them spin it and check balance.

ake legg

jake legg poll

As a former mechanic, I can't speak for everyone but I can speak for many. The shops drive the bad experiences and reputations many associate with mechanics. The shops put the squeeze on the mechanics and the customers. There are so many repairs and inspections that have a built in loss for the mechanic and selling repairs on discovered issues, etc is supposed to be the payoff for the mechanic. The flag times are cut throat. Experience can improve the situation, but no mechanic can pay their bills if they were as casual and conscientious about their daily work as this man and others are in RU-vid videos. What you are seeing is the approach probably most mechanics would like to be able to make to their jobs, but they wouldn't have a job if they actually did so and even if they had a job they would not earn enough flag time to feed and clothe their families. Some mechanics are greedy but nearly every shop is definitely greedy and they put the squeeze on the mechanic and the customer while the mechanic and the customer tend to loathe each other for the situation while the shop in middle sneaks by to stash their cash grab. Some shops are good, but you will know them because a good shop won't keep a bad or crooked mechanic around. So if your experience is broken it's probably not the mechanic at fault. It certainly isn't only the mechanic at fault. It's the fake smiling faces of the shop owners, management, and counter sales that have duped you into thinking your mechanic is a bad apple at an otherwise fine establishment. Don't trash an entire group of professionals while ignoring the corporate greed that is the real root of your bitterness.

Two reasons. 1. I already did a video on the plate. 2. MA does a lot of homework to overcome problems just a little better than others do.

briansmobile1 Fair enough. Thanks.

you sure have missed alot over the years lol

YEEE-AHHH!

Just wondering ? The squeel didnt happen to be a roller lifter on the cam did it ? I just had that go bad and mine sounded like a serpentine belt squeel , but i removed that and it still squeeled

Yes.

I was looking for the same thing. hopefully he sees this, replies, and I am alerted to the reply.

Probably. The chain would help hold the right side shaft in place. If youre wanting to change the pump or the plate that causes pinholes in the tail housing it might be easier to do outside of the truck.

Sounds easy enough.

Nope. No timing involved. The chain is just a linkage mechanism.

@@briansmobile1 thanks bro I got it figured out.

Dean Knipp

Mine is doing the same . Goes reverse but no forward

Radiator transmision cooler leaking fluids back and forth ? Antifreeze will tear up a transmission fast .

I ran into that today lol

Best tip!!! Glad I remembered I read this while I was fighting to remove tailshaft from housing.

Whasup Ginja Man!? Asked and answered. This is the best bang for the buck → amzn.to/2H2hmLO

@@briansmobile1 Thank you very much!!! I don't really have a good set of pliers to hold back the ring. Really appreciate the video, definitely helped out a lot. 👍

When there's evidence of insufficient lubrication like wear or dark fluid- it's time.

I changed out the oil transfer case since asking this question. The pump had eaten through the case. Put a new one in the truck and with the brace kit it sound the same as before. Have another lined up with 3 months warranty. Trying to figure this out.

This was a firefighter buddy's truck. It was at 150k when I did this if I remember right.

Hi Terry.

Texture, toughness, color, and smell.

briansmobile1 hahahaha

Chemical/oil resistant rtv

My intention is to double up on cranking some extra videos up this week.

Get it up on stands and check it. Modern trucks have all kinds of vacuum solenoids and electronic actuating to get the axle to engage for action and disengage for fuel economy.

Scotty, you may be right about that.

AHHHHHH!!!! oh. you're kid-ing!

No joke don't move to Oregon.

The MA kit is for: 1998-2007 GM transfer case models 136, 146, 246, 261, 261HD, 263HD, 263XHD, 261XHD

Thank you.

I got the worst luck just other day driving home from work. I herd a popping grinding noise underneath below feet driverside. Came an went on way to mechanic i deal with got up in the air an put into drive an herd noise from transfercase. An then it goes away. Was bad sometimes with the chattering. He took apart to inspect an all looks good no wear marks bearings tight even little bearings look good. Do you have any clue what could be in it. Still apart rite now. But putting togerher today at some point...thanks

2004 gmc sierra 1500. 4×4 sle