"What did I grow a ......" spit my coffee across the room and laughed out loud. Sometimes a few words is better than a picture. Really enjoyed the video. Your explanation of the evap system is very effective.
Eric , You should have hit that vent valve a few times with your new purse , that would jar the hoses loose . Got the purse line from Cameraman, blame him .
Good video as usual and yes some hoses are tough getting off, if possible I spray some silicone on them , usually helps some. Also glad you didn’t grow a vagina, don’t think Mrs O would be too happy with you!
What helps a lot is when you get a hook inside of a hose to separate it from a fitting, spray some WD-40 onto the space between the tool and the fitting. That has help me remove and install hoses during my 37 years of turning a wrench for a living.
Eric, I own a 2001 Silverado with the big 4.8L 1500 and 475,000 miles Canadian model. I average 26.8 miles per gallon. Best truck and engine I have ever owned. Yes original engine (never been opened) It's a south Texas truck no rust belt.
@@ryanhunter7365 electrical diag is not my strong suit but I’m looking to continue improving in that area. This channel has helped me immensely and I am not a professional technician by any means but I do want to be capable when working on mine or my family’s cars.
@@MrSpartanicus DIY'ers Rule brother! I have a power probe too. I also have a whole array of wire taps, back probes and a couple really nice meters. I keep it all in one of those Harbor freight pelican type cases ready to go. I just used it the other day on my Superduty to diagnose a remote mirror switch gone bad.
That filter relocate is pretty critical on a farm truck that sees lots of gravel. The filter plugs right up if you leave it under the vehicle in the dust cloud. Gotta put it up at the front of the engine bay to breath some clean air.
Beer will also make plastic jugs expand when in a warm car, we used to go to the Nationals at Thunder Valley and you could not take cans or bottles into the pit side of the drag strip so we would buy a keg and use that to fill up jugs...miss those good ole days :)
When I diagnosed the purge leak fault on my '03 Chrysler Town & Country I was surprised to find that nearly all purge hoses cracked and leaked about the same time. Meaning when the hoses aged to a specific time period, they all failed in the same manner around the same time, give or take. That's why I cringe when a hood is opened and all we see are hoses of all sorts and not the engine. Eventually they all will need replaced.
Awesome videos, very informative. Living in the rust belt, the rust on those vehicles is crazy bad. Glad to see you have the hacks to get around most of it.
This made my day😂,great diagnosis and explanation and top quality comments!A strange phenomenon there are men all over the world suddenly growing one of those…..strange times.
My wife's grandmother called me not long ago saying she took her 2001 Silverado(legit garage find, zero rust, 55k) into the dealership to get a CEL figured out. Techs said it was the same codes as what this video describes(I checked them myself with a cheap iPhone code reader). They estimated $900-1100 to repair. She could afford it but she called me just to run it past me. I stopped over, fiddled with the gas cap, wiggled each and every fitting on the evap circuit and pulled the fitting out of the intake and cleaned it. 12,000 miles since and no codes. Is that the problem everytime? No I'm certain it's not and many times it's far more in-depth than that. But how many times has a dealership done that to people who don't have someone that is halfway mechanically minded?
Thank you Mr. O, I watch a lot of your videos and they are really informative and I learn new techniques and information that I should already know, as a mechanic for 30 some years.
It's always nice to see different methods to get to the same diagnostic goal. I wonder if the reason the vent valves are prone to failure is because moisture that condenses in the line has nowhere to go, then it freezes on a cold day, damaging anything nearby. So the manufacturer tried to shift the location of other parts so the valve would be farther away from ice. Problem is, there's only so much headroom under the vehicle.
@@rydplrs71 well that makes 'the fix' perfect' more work for emissions repairs I wonder if they can limit emissions from hybrid or all electric vehicles we all know they must be emitting hazardous substances, California must label them with their hazardous material warning already.
Great video! My 2013 1500 5.3 ext cab 4x4 had the check engine light on with PO455 code, so changed the purge valve on the engine first with a GM original part from Rock Auto, cleared the code. next day coming home the check engine light comes back on, same PO455 code, so I ordered a PN: 22840971 Vapor canister vent solenoid valve assembly, hoses included GM original parts from Rock Auto, got the new parts and compared the old with the new and it was identical to old part. Installed the new part, fit perfect, cleared the code again, hopefully this will work. besides, the trucks getting older and i plan on keeping the truck for a long time, so I thought it was a good idea of preventive maintenance.
I got the same truck and I got a P0451, P0446, EVAP system vent control circuit, and EVAP system pressure sensor/switch "A" circirt range/performance... I checked the canter like you did and the thing under the hood is good, my thought is that its the fuel tank sensor.
I use the special tool for tightening the ty-raps, its made by Thomas and Betts. It works great! You will also want to make sure to use Thomas and Betts ty-raps because they have a metal locking tab instead of a plastic one.
Absolutely love your RU-vid channel mate. I live in the UK and stumbled on your channel the other day. I’m now totally hooked and love watching what you do. Your so funny as well. I’m a roadside technician in the uk and would love to work in a workshop like yours. Keep up the good work my friend. 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Thanks for another reason to justify the PowerProbe in the tool box, even if the 194 bulb tester did the trick, too. The PP audio tone confirming power to signal wire is helpful. Merry belated Christmas and a Happy vag to you and yours.
The relocation kit does work for Chevy trucks in the south. The first one on my 06 Silverado failed in 2009 because of dust and dirt, it was updated to the relocation kit. And hasn’t been changed since, still have the truck.
Great video well explained. The hose from my field neck to my gas tank was recently cut in attempt to siphon my tank. I put a new hose on. check engine light went off came back on a day later. And now I'm not hearing the distinctive click from purge valve. I think I'm going to try to replace the valve and hope that fixes my issue. Thanks for the video
Just had a small evap leak on a 2011 Jeep Grand Cherokee with the big 3.6 Liter….. Just changed the Gas cap and cleared code with my basic scan tool ! Fingers Crossed 🤞 the money light doesn’t come back
I just changed the purge valve on a malibu but I don't have the snap on computer scan tool I wish i had a scan tool I troubleshoot cars the hard way ,it would so easy with a scan tool, great videos
had a 2003 silverado with the 4.8 LS. also had the evap codes. replaced and relocated the evap system still had the codes, i emailed black bear preformance and had them delete my evap system and codes via mail in tune. Never had a problem fueling up or a check engine light again. Sold it with 276,000 miles extremely solid and reliable truck even in the Wisconsin salt belt.
Here I was, residing in the time of January 6, 2022, wishing that I had an SMA video to help guide me along P0442 and P0455 codes that I just started getting on my 2005 Silverado 6.0. Life gets better every day!
I found using a pair of vice grips slightly tightened over the hose at the location where the clamp was and give it a turn will loosen the adhesion. Then you can pull off normally.
Had an EVAP code. An took it to the dealer to be fixed. The first time. It made it till the next day. Before my check engine light came on. Went back an they moved it on top of transmission. Was leaving an it came on before I got off the lot. So they said they would code my truck for free. As long as it was the EVAP circuit. Not to worry about it. Because it had nothin to do with the performance of the 6.0. I'm true to my GM 3/4 ton and 1 ton trucks. But! I'm having serious doubts about what I thought was the for sure way. To correctly fixing all computer code problems. Wish I could find a man as honest and skilled as you. In my area. To work on my trucks. But watching your vids. Let me know that if you can do it. That I can to. Rather work my trucks. An find someone I can trust. To fix them
I *just* had this fixed on my '08. Passed all the tests. They had to use a laser to see where smoke was barely coming out, top of sending unit elbow thing.
Good Old Power Probe IV I have the master kit great tool for testing Circuits great tool for testing wire integrity... I would say be careful with power probes to the viewers they can destroy circuits if there not properly used Great diag video as always Eric O @SouthMainAutoRepairLLC
I took the last two weeks off also, because we had a storm blow through, dumped over two feet of snow and knocked the power out for two weeks. Just came back on about twenty minutes ago. Guess I have to go to work tomorrow.
Previously worked at GM dealer for A couple decades. We replaced those evap vent valves and canisters almost every day of the week due to them filling up with sand. You could literally shack the sand out of the canister. I would really like to know if other brands of trucks had the same issue in dusty conditions.
I have yet to run into a brand that doesn't have common problems due to emission items. My cousin has newer construction equipment and they fail all the time. Most of the fam repairs that aren't regular maintenance are typically PCV/Emissions whatever. Every. Time.
@@inducedapathy1296 What would be nice, is the day when diesel dpf systems would be much less troublesome. The cost associated with downtime due to this system is outrageous.
Putting the load on it is the best. Had one the other day that had no control side ground. It also wasn't working after fixing the broken wire along the frame. But the pressure sensor was also reading -10. So it had 3 problems. Another shop overlooked all of it and changed the purge valve. AkA guessed. It was a tire shop.
Called it in the last vid that Eric O was working on some CHEVY THUNDER! As far as stuck hoses, sometimes I have luck taking some penetrating oil and one of the red straws for it and squirting it in-between the hose and whatever it's stuck on.
Not sure what software you are using to render your videos, but it should have a way to remove the noise from the furnace. All you need to do is give it a sample of the furnace sound, with nothing else in the background. Then apply that as a filter to your final render. Hope that helps. And Happy New Year! o7
6:40 "I took some time off at Christmas, wait can you say Christmas?" 15 seconds later"cmmmmonnn did I grow a vagina?!" That is soooo not PC Mr Eric O! We still love you 😂
Good Morning coffee and a SMA video.. Going to be a great day. Iv changed at least 6 of these valves in the last month Go old New England. We love salt here in Springield, Ma
I sold autoparts for 15 years. Just 7 or 8 years ago those vent valves were $70+ depending on which one you needed. Where I live they started becoming a common failure about 5 years ago, and now they are about $20
Been trying to figure out my P0455 code on my 2009 Pontiac G5/Cobalt for weeks. replaced gas cap, purge cannister and vent solenoid and still has the dash lit up and crappier gas mileage. Hoses appear to be ok...I dunno. Great video, but kind of a slap in the face towards my problem lol. I just can't shake it.
If a hose is giving you that much of a problem, you can pry it away from the connector with a pick and give it a shot of silicon spray, wd, or anything else you've got at hand to loosen it up and lube it.
You make me laugh every video I see of you, your way of describing what you’re doing is fantastic. I could work in your shop for sure, thanks for sharing the way you do 😊
Eric great video you know a lot, i did my trade school in H.S. auto Mechanics i dont know half of what you know, But i have a 2004 Grand cherokee 4.0 same color as yours i have Po455, The Po442 is pending, I bought a smoke machine autoline pro Amazon 120.00 and i found my leak it was a line going from the fuel tank to the charcoal canister that elbow was crack on top, went to advance auto they haven't ha rubber hoses in 4-5 months I use the Blu Driver
My 05 tahoe says to tighten fuel cap even though it's new. P0455 pops up for a couple of days and then turns off for a few months and then back on. I'm puzzled, but this video helps. Thanks from Texas.
If you want a hose clamp that will not rust (at least corrosion resistant in the presence of salt water) you can use an all 316L SS clamp (Salt Water Marine type) from PYI. They are expensive, but are excellent for the repair you are making (rust belt under vehicle, OBD-II Evap emissions critical leak). The PYI clamps have rolled edges which work well on tubes with no nipples, barbs or beads. I see the OEM quality for critical use hose clamps vary greatly. For example, a tank fill hose clamp which is SS except for the screw, which corrodes to the point where it can't hold the clamp pressure, or is unusable once disconnected. For the repair I would take the opportunity to treat the connector and actuator contacts with Deoxit D5 spray. I would also make sure that the harness to the actuator cannot vibrate (move) underneath the vehicle while driving. So, I would tie-wrap the harness so it cannot move relative to the solenoid. Evaporative emissions are stringent, so much so, that the hose types should have a low permeability rating and obviously be hydrocarbon (fuel vapor) compatible. I think Eric used a large fuel line hose, which would work. I could not see any markings on the new hose.
Mrs. O: "Is there any benefit to changing the thermostat when doing a heater core flush?" It's for a Ram" Mr. O: "...I can..." Let's all take a moment for the cold customer in a Dodge with a plugged heater core.
I think he was getting at having his brain picked by randoms, which is why he replied "I can...", meaning if the guy wants a definitive answer he can bring it in.
Hey folks if you haven’t seen them before, Blue-point (and harbor freight lol) make a Hose Grip Pliers set that really make getting heater core and rubber lines unstuck a breeze!
Some people (non religious people) don't like the fact that it is a religious holiday but they want to celebrate it. Also they don't like the fact that it has Christ in it. So they want to start stuff about calling it Christmas.
@@mforrest85 Not once in my 62 years on this planet have I ever run into anyone that was offended or otherwise adverse to me saying Merry Christmas. The "war" on Christmas is BS.
Funny, when I go into the homes to film and the heaters or A/C is on I hardly notice it if at all. When editing it sounds like a hurricane was in the home.
"it's in Canadian" eh ? It's called the metric system. Kinda reminds me of a job I did in Waco Texas a bunch of years ago. People were coming out in droves to see Canadians but were sadly disappointed cuz we left our igloos and tepe at home. All that aside thanks for the video and info as I need to fix my rust bucket now. I really wish we had a salt shortage around here
You're lucky. I've got the 5.3 in the same year, and I'm getting ready for an engine swap at 117k miles. Nothing else on that truck could make it 100k, except the transmission - that failed at 103k. Been the biggest POS I've ever owned in my life! Bought it brand new, and took care of it better than any vehicle I've ever owned, too. Ran the best of the best synthetics since the day it broke in. Didn't help much. Parts quality has gone down the toilet.
I have a 2013 Chevy Silverado 1500 with the 4.8l. I am so glad I have this engine vs the 5.3l . The 4.8l and 6.0l didn't have AFM. That ruins engine. They take a great LS platform and ruin it with AFM or DFM. . Garbage
I suspect your camera has non-voice frequency noise suppression on the sound recording. When sound suppressing headphones first came out, I worked ships. Bought a pair and tried them out on the ship. Motor noise, blower noise, engine noise everywhere. Well, it cut the low frequency noises quite well, but that only highlighted the the higher frequency noise from the blowers and fans. Worse, when I took them off, I could still "hear" the high frequency noise along with the low frequency noise.
The 4.8 was has an excellent reliability record like the 6.0. The 5.3 has always been the more trouble prone engine of the group. Mainly because of active fuel management and other small issues. I think of the 4.8 GM to the 4.6 Ford. A small but robust reliable engine.
Yep - going to be doing a 6.0 (or 6.2, or 7.0 - haven't decided yet) swap on my '07 (GMT-900) Silverado soon. Low oil pressure, and the engine has been burning oil and making metal since it had 50k miles on it. At 117k now. What a disappointment! Half the driveline has already failed, too. Rear diff couldn't even make 100k miles.
@@SmittySmithsonite go with a 6.0, if you are going to keep the PCM stock (and use a DOD eliminator on the obdII port). The 5.3 fuel maps work, but will add 3% on the long term fuel trims. The 6.2 and 7.0 will go too positive on the long term trims and trip lean codes. This is from my personal experience of playing the LS swap games. Also, you could put a 6.0 where a 6.2 lived and it shows -2% long term fuel trims.
@@mattcat231 That's good to know. Thanks! I didn't know they'd even run without a tune. I'll be going with a full dyno tune when the swap is done. Whichever engine I end up with will be getting a mild cam, Trailblazer SS intake (or Dorman equivalent), and headers. I hate how the LS engine's powerband is top-weighted, so I want to get the most amount of N/A torque I can get. I pull a flatbed trailer hauling cars and trucks all over hilly New England, and the 5.3 is adequate, but I want a bit more. If I had the money for a Whipple or turbo kit, I'd just do that, but this might be a budget build. In that case, displacement is my friend.
