You can make removal of manifold even easier by removing the three stud bolts on the 15mm nuts using an E8 socket. Manifold comes right out without getting under the car.
Hey bro I appreciate it very much, I'm glad I came across this video because some mechanic were gonna charge me 600 bucks if not more but it's a lot easier than expected. Thanks bro
Great job with the manifold. Many of us have difficulty removing the O2 sensor without a torch, and difficulty unbolting the flange with the catalytic converter without snapping off one or more of the studs. I didn’t try to change the studs in the head for fear of snapping one off. You made it like easy, which is a good thing. Thanks for the video.
Thank you! Mine is cracked in the very same spot that yours was, it's literally the same direction even. I have a new manifold on order. I think I can do this!
I have a 2012 Malibu LS and there was a Secondary Air Injection Pipe that runs along the back top of the engine which makes it impossible to remove the two far right (driver's side) bolts from the manifold. What a nightmare. It took us awhile to figure out what it was and then we were able to disconnect hose from the air injector by holding the ring and pulling it off. We also needed to remove the small bolt that holds it to the front of the engine so we could move the pipe around. It was still very difficult. It also made it very difficult to get the new and old manifold out. Another issue was that when we put the new one on it bumped the new metal o-ring off to the ground which we did not know about until after we tightened all the bolts. We used a E8 star socket to get the studs out of the exhaust pipe originally to get the old manifold off. Since it took us more than an hour get the bolts in and tighten them we then lifted the car to loosen up the exhaust pipe from down below so we could drop the lower flange and insert the o-ring back in. Another issue we had was that since the Secondary Air Injection Pipe was on there it covered the gasket so we could not remove it without removing more Secondary Air Injection Pipe brackets which would added more time and they were really hard to get to as well. We just used the existing gasket and called it a bad day! Thanks for this video. It was a God send.
If you live in (I assume) a state with strict emissions like I do in California there may be an extra set of brackets and something that ties into the exhaust from the front of the car that pretty much blocks all of the bolts you need to get access to. There are 4 torx head bolts you can remove that will allow you to remove the bracket but not the actual *whateveritis that blocks them. It is enough to get the job done. I also had an extra O2 sensor that I had to remove after the catalytic converter. I am no mechanic, took my time, and the job took me about 6 hours. That does not include the hour or so I let the nuts soak in some penetrant. Good luck, thanks for the video. FYI many of the bottom bolts are easier to get to from underneath the car with the converter out of the way.
So glad I found your comment. I m on the same boat. Did you just blindly spray the bolts like I tried to ahead of time? Also were you able to remove some of the bolts from up top? And finally, was your replacement party the manifold only or the manifold and coverter together?
Thank you so much for this video. Mine was cracked in the same spot as yours! Looking at the comments of others, it seems it's pretty common. Mine started the leak at about 185k miles. I ordered the new exhaust manifold and just finished the job this morning, took about 90 minutes. Some of the nuts holding the exhaust manifold to the engine were a bit tricky to get out!
Man this is great! Thanks alot. I have been trying to find my problem because i know it is the exhaust. The noise is dead center from inside the car. It only happens when it is at running temps and it definitely sounds like an exhaust issue. Oh and only when im in Drive(Haven't listened for it in reverse) But i can hear it in Neutral only when i Rev quick and hard for a split second. But thanks alot for making this video man. There has only been one and it's some dude removing a manifold from a saturn and is not very helpful.
Really like this video very informative. Certainly be able to replace it and I'm not a mechanic....! Should I be replacing the gaskets and what type adhesive if any do you suggest??!! Really love my car not trying to part with it so though it's expensive to maintain I want to fix it myself hence the appreciation of this particular video. Thank you
Hey thanks for the info I am in the middle of the repair and your video isa a great help. Question: When you removed the manifold was there a gasket and if so did you remove it or just use the new gasket over what was there? Thanks!
I'm currently working on my 2011 Buick regal 2.4L and this is almost the same look of how to remove and replace the exhaust manifold. Only problem I jumped in today was that after dropping the muffler, there were still 2 more bolts connecting to the catalytic converter and the screw keeps spinning with the bolt 😑 but hopefully tomorrow I find a way to unbolt it.
Thank you Sir I just needed to know where the bolts were at what size sockets to use what tools I need and estimate the time it should actually take so thank u very much I liked and subscribed
Do you suspect the motor mounts are bad causing the stress on the manifold? What size was the 02 sensor slot socket? And thanks!!- the only video on this car for the manifold!!
I'm doing the same job on a 2011 Chevy Malibu 4 cylinder. I replace the manifold gaskets even the O-ring to the catalytic converter where they meet. When I start the car there still with a slight leak in the manifold. What do you think that could possibly be. If I'm missing one of those bolts to the manifold with that cause it to leak
It is much easier to remove the two bolts at the top of that exhaust bolts then it is to remove that one large Bolt not to mention you have to push the entire exhaust back to clear the lip after removing a bolt to drop the exhaust the two at the top of the mount you just unbolt lower Jack remove manifold install manifold Jack backup bolts back in
My Chevy malibu loss power .. I just pass scanner and gave me Two codes ..One for Exahust sensor and another one for catalyst ..so Im wondering if I replace manifull I can fix loss power issue?
Hi. Could you please Tell me how you removed the piece above the manifold connected to the long silver pipe? Thanks to your video I was able to identify the cracked manifold and remove the cover but cannot access the bolts because of the part above manifold and I dont dare to move it yet because I dont know what it is. Thanks.
Just paid a $99 diagnostic to find its the exhaust manifold🤺🤺🤺 I came here to see how much time it took for you to do the job. I have a 2010 malibu. Does it have the same manifold? What brand do you suggest. I saw someone say no to Dorman
what kind of issues can you have with this i have a 12 malibu i smell exaust when i start the car i smell it in the cab but then i goes away im not sure if this is my issue but the car runs rough and at idle rpms drop when i brake at a red light sometimes it feels like it wants to stall @da truth
Just changed mine. And you decribed exactly what my car was doing. Exaust mainfold was cracked. Smelt exaust on cold starts. Went away and ran smoother after it warmed up. Was rough at first and louder than normal. Sounded better after it warmed up. Good luck.
Good luck with the Dorman. Bought one recently for my 2.4L Ecotec engine for my 2010 Equinox with the cracked manifold in exactly the same place as his Malibu. There is a slight difference between the Dorman and the OEM manifold, but the difference is enough to keep the bottom half of the manifold from seating properly. With the top row of nuts tightened, and using your finger, you can touch the bottom of the manifold gasket and move it in and out - a bad sign. I have taken my grinder and ground off every possible protrusion, have compared the old and new manifolds side by side both visually and with a micrometer, and drew outlines of both, one on top of the other in different colored inks on a sheet of large paper to see where the discrepancy is, but no luck so far. The only thing left is to precisely measure the holes in the bottom of the manifold for the studs - if they are too close together by a millimeter or so, that would cause the problem I am seeing. Any other suggestions would be welcome.
