That's s what i told myself on the video i did titled seized alternator bolts a cpl months ago . Why didn't i think a that sooner lol ! Thanx for channel support ! Be safe brother !
Thanks sir. I got my hands on a 65 c10 and learning as I go. Trying to overcome a hot, not crank issue with a remote solenoid. Your video is very helpful.
@@michaelaguirre8732 never fried a solenoid in decades since going this way ! Not one ! I was cooking a solenoid about every 9 months till i learned this . Be safe brother !
This IS a great mod for Chevys. I came up with my own version of this independently because I liked how the solenoid was remote in my Cougar. My Blazer is a 24volt version and the starter weighs a ton to get in and out- not to mention the little brace that you need to use to stabilize and support the beast. I remoted as you have, but the big red cable that goes to the starter has been spliced and an Anderson cable connector (SB50) added above the chassis on the inner fender. (I only use one side of the connector). SO all I have to do is separate the Anderson connector. Crawl under and unbolt the 2 mounting bolts and one brace bolt. The starter drops out with about 3 feet of red battery cable with the Anderson at the other end. Switch that cable onto the new starter and bolt it back in. No more monkey fingering little nuts and washers with tiny tools and greasy fingers. Thanks for sharing.
I told my bro about this wiring method. He stripped the starter post with trying to put the cable on it at a very bad angle. I fixed the threads for him and told him about the Ford solenoid. It also a great method for those that have the battery in the trunk because it gives them a power wire junction. I like the shim trick to make the contact between power and solenoid connections I'll try that next time. I usually use a 12 or 10 gauge wire.
Any time brother ! I ve smoked a cpl wires 2 . Its just easier only to have the battery cable run down . Plus if your battery cable hits the header tube this way . Its not live and blowin a hole in your header tube ! Thanx fr channel support brother ! Be safe !
Glad ta help out brother ! A mechanic showed me that cause i was goin through a lot of solenoids on the starter . Sure solved that problem ! Just make sure yr signal wire from ignition key is only hot when rolled all the way . Yr good !
Interesting idea, but... now you have two solenoids. I like the a remote mounted solenoid and a single, intermittently energized wire going to the starter, but without bypassing the original solenoid on the starter this needs some more thought. The armature/bendix is part of the original solenoid so you can’t just delete it. The only way I can think you can be getting “more kick” to the starter is that you get clean connections during the conversion.
It's a split ! The mechanics that showed me said it gave more juice to the starter . I agree it seems snappier ! I'll never go back the other way . Gotta roll yr motor . Right there on the fire wall ! My left hand was severed and reattached . Any thing I can do to make wrenching easier I do !
Now I’m interested to try it myself to see if I can duplicate what you’re seeing about it seeming to give it more power to spin the engine. Kinda goes against my logic... but many things do. Cool idea! I would have never thought of it.
I no this much . I was going through a lot of starter solenoids . One every year r so . That's why the mechanic showed me that . I have not had to replace a solenoid on a starter since I went that way ! Or on the fire wall ! Ben doin it for 20 years plus ?
It can be wired with the same parts just differently. Wire it like a stock 95 ford truck and it will do the same thing. The boost comes from the starter solenoid switch line getting the proper voltage. I install about 100 a year but I use a different relay.
Great!!! I'm all for improving the wiring and making it easy access I'm just to stupid to do it without a video like this! Thanks for simplifying things!
If you are using HEI you dont have to really connect that R wire right. That R wire was used on the positive side of the coil that used points to feed fire to the coil with around 9 volts to keep it charged. The S nut on most chevys the wire was PURPLE. THATS THE STATER WIRE. Im thinking about going to a mini high torque starter on my 72 c-10 i was wondering if i could use this trick on that type , it only has one small nut for the S and one big nut for the positive battery cable and another big nut on the bottom you dont touch It should work for that. . Just elliminate that R wire if you have HEI YOU HAVE A DESIGNATED WIRE FOR THE COIL FROM THE FUSE BOX FOR THAT CONNECTION ALREADY WHEN IGNITION IS IN RUN POSITION, CONTINUOUS 12 VOLTS. GREAT VIDEO , REALLY ENJOYED IT VERY VERY HELPFUL.
Just started doing it to all my old Chevys. I have lots of ford's I've aways wondered about that. I was aways nervous of a fire with wires so close to exhaust.
Works great ! Yah i cooked a wire or 2 n the old days with the cable to the starter being hot all the time . This way is safer fr sure ! Plus if you gotta bump yr starter , screwdriver hit the solenoin on the firewall
Guy showed me that cause i was cookin a solenoid every year . Ben since late 90s i ben doin that . Never fried solenoid ! Never fried a starter ! One guy argued i was just buying cheap solenoids . I told him . It was noon when i text him back . Im self employed . By noon i had already started my truck 16 times that day ! My starter gets used more n a day than most ppl use one in a month ! Thanx for input brother ! Be safe !
Confused as to why you still need the black wire if you ran your own wire (red wire) from the fuse box that is only hot when the key is all the way in the "start" position. Wouldn't the factory black wire that used to run to the "S" function the same as the red wire that you added?
The black should work for a signal still ! Seems i went that routt once and it didnt work . But that set up had multiple wires along with the battery cable . Let me know if yiu try it and it works !
I saw your little trick while looking for tips on how to change the solenoid on my '97 Chevy 1 ton that just quit. Could they have made that solenoid ANY harder to replace?
Yah thats why this guy showed me this trick . I was eatin a solenoid every 9 months or so . For what ever reason ive NEVER fried or wore one out since going this way . Im self employed . Truck gets started 20 , 25 times a day !
@@theweldor757 A mechanic friend of mine just told me a loose connection to the battery will burn up the solenoid. Maybe that's what your problem was all along and rewiring with his trick coincidentally fixed that. No matter, you're back on the road.
@@CarterQuillenP.E. i think the heat from the headers was killin my stuff . But idk . Had a buddy that had the same problem on his blazer . That was the solution they came up with . So i followed the path . No regrets thats fr sure !
Thanks from a Ford guy working on a 1946 Ford with 350/350 set up. I thought about this but figured I was nuts! Thanks for sharing!! I am having issues with solenoid contacts fouling.....does this help any?? Thx
We're does other end of the black wire go to from solienod we're does that hook to? Also we're does that little red wire that is hooked with the black wire go to?
Not sure wher the black wire is coming from ? The little red wire cones from the fuse box . You want to find something in the fuse box thats only hot when the key is rolled to start position . But not hot just in run position . Only hot when its rolled all the way . Pretty sure this 1990 had a ignition spot in the fuse box . Only hot when key was rolled all the way over . But not hot in just run position
@@theweldor757 I think he's asking if the black wire is necessary after your fix. If I'm thinking about this right, the black wire on the left side of the fire wall mounted solenoid used to run down to the starter. But it will no longer be necessary after your fix. So the black wire just gets removed?
This is a sweet setup man. I have a question though. I have 4 total wires: 1 red to battery, smaller red, a black, and a smaller black wire like 14 gauge. I saw you only had 3 wires, any idea where the 4th wire goes? Thanks again for the video and help!
If the last wire has a small eyelet put it on little post on new solenoid , front lower left with signal wire . If it has a big eyelet . Put it with the battery csble on left side . You should be ok like that .
@@theweldor757 thanks man! It works without that “R” lug wire. I read that wire is for extra voltage to start the car when it’s cold out. I’m not sure if that’s the case, but it’s working great. Thanks again.
Wonder if this would help the problem with heat soak on my 454 BBC in my 56 Chevy. Starts fine cold but after about 10-15 minutes of heat soak you can forget it until everything cools down again. I tried every shield made lol, this was my next plan to try since they say the solenoid on the starter is what is heating up causing the problem.
Thats why i did this . Cookin a solenoid every 8, 9 months . Havnt cooked or had any problems with a solenoid EVER since doing this . Since mid , late 90s
It works great my friend ! Just make sure the signal wire is only hot when the key is rolled all the way ! Signal wire has to go back dead in run position or the starter wilk stay engaged ! Be safe brother !
New subscriber!!🔥🔥🔥🔥 Now I need help wiring my ignition wire from the fuse box. I bought a 81 GMC CABALLERO 3.8 V6 and the wire from the ignition fuse wasn’t hooked up to anything!! Please help!!
Sometimes chevy had a spot in the fuse box for ignition . Look for a male spade that says ign . If not you need to find a spot in the fuse box thats only hot when the key is rolled all the way to in gage starter . Can only be hot when the key is rolled all the way . Has to go back dead when in the running position . Gotta work on train cars this weekend . But im here for ya brother if you need ! Be safe !
@@theweldor757 the male spade that says “ign” is the wire not hooked up to anything. That’s the wire I’m talking about. It’s coming from “IGN” but it’s not wired to anything. There’s also a thick red wire (possibly 10 gauge) running through the firewall from the battery area (there’s no battery) to inside the car but it’s not connected to anything also.
@@papergatorzfedducca7998 correct . From the factory thers nothing ther . Its an accessory plug in fr ppl like us . YOU'LL make a hot wire that comes off that male spade . Itll run to the solenoid you put on the firewall . That will be the signal wire to activate the solenoid you put in
@@theweldor757 so does the red wire from the battery area that wasn’t hooked to anything connect to the “IGN” wire because they were not wired together??
@@papergatorzfedducca7998 so you should of had the battery cable and one or 2 other wires originally hooked to your starter . Once you put the solenoid on the firewall . The little wire that used to go down to the starter now goes on the solenoid your putting on the firewall. But you need to make a wire that will run from that ign spade in the fuse box . To the lower left post on the solenoid to activate the solenoid .
Basically yes ! And one advantage is that battery cable is dead unless your cranking engine . Ive seen a few ppl through the years . Melt the battery cable on header . And then have an electrical melt down . Nice to onow this way the cables dead . Unless yr cranking . I was frying a solenoid about every 9 months or so the old way . Ive NEVER fried or had a problem since going this way !
Would this work on a 94 chevy P30 coachmen Catalina RV? I have like 19 feet of wiring from that “black” wire you showed. I’ve tracked it all the way into the interim and it just keeps going? Can I cap the off or what? I like the shim tip!! Thanks
It should . If ther any wires that are hooked up now with starter cable it self . Straight off the battery . Make sure those wires go to the left side of solenoid you put on fire wall . That way if it was hot before modification . Its still hot after modification . Being a rv . You should be ok
It should help alot ! I was cooking a starter solenoid every 9 months or so . Since doin this 20 plus years ago . Ive never fried a solenoid on ANYTHING ive done this trick to !
Bottom left . The black wire is the wire that originally ran down to the starter solenoid . Now rather than run down to chevy starter solenoid it goes up top on lower left . And , yes the red wire comes from ignition . But the red wire can only be hot when your rolling the key ALL the way to engage starter ! ! When vehicles starts and you let the key roll back to run position the red wire HAS to go dead ! If not yhe starter will stay engaged all the time . A lot of vehicles had a actual ignition prong in the fuse box ! If not tap into one side of a fuse thats only hot when keys rolled all the way !
Glad ta help brother ! Be safe ! That was why a guy showed me that . Was goin through a lot of solenoids on starters . Havnt burnt up one on anything since goin that way ! Pretty easy ta do too !
Its just a standard , like ford solenoid . The little post on the left front has a S above it . The little post on the right front has a i above it . You should be able to tell the parts store ford starter solenoid fr like a say mid 70s ford
Thanks though im not able to do it that way right this minute but I am trying to rewire mine to where the headers don't get it my solenoids got a r on the left and the s on the right alternator has a two plug female in a harness has a plug that has two wires on it that fits into that female in alternator also has a stud that comes out of the back of it down there at my solenoid which one of the two wires goes to the r and which one of the two wires goes to the s if any I was told I could take the red wire that comes out of the two plug on the back of the alternator and just take it right there onto the stud that comes out of the back of alternator right next to that spot so that would pretty much leave nothing going to the solenoid at that point am I correct except for that big middle post that connects to my battery I know this is a bunch of s*** to throw at you and I'm sorry about that but I just don't want to burn nothing up again
@@braleyshardwoodcustoms8584 sorry brother ! Slammed with work . The solenoid i got has S on the left and i on the right ! The other starter wire that ran down to my starter i put on the S post ! i post is ignition . Had a guy who lost his keys 30 years ago . Mid 70s ford . I took a wire straight off the battery to the i post . Put a screw driver from i post then to starter cable and it fired right up ! Luckily it was in neutral ! Standard transmission . Lucky i didnt get ran over ! Alternator wise watch my alternator wiring trick video ! If you need buddy ill post my phone number for ya ! Send some pics your way if that helps !
Thanks for this video. I’ve had unending starting problems with my 1993 z28 Camaro and I’m hoping to get a little more boost to help hard starts. I’ve replace almost everything on the car and still have a starting problem so I’m convinced it some electrical gremlin I can’t find. Any ideas would be appreciated
Really simple ! I was going through a solenoid every year . This guy showed me this trick . I havnt fried a solenoid since . Thanx fr channel support ! Be safe !
The black wire that ran down to the little post on the solenoid on the starter originally . Now goes to the the lower left post on the solenoid on the firewall
Yep . Signal wire to activate the starter . Can only be hot when key is rolled all the way ! It has to go back dead when the key is in run position or the starter will stay engaged !
I need to do this for my Gvan. Where would I connect the engine harness? Right now it's wired up to the 3/8 stud on the starter (former owners work) and the cable burned out and it took out my battery cable with it. Also, what model of Ford solenoid do I look for?
Like a late/mid 70s ford starter solenoid . Little posts will have i think its a s on one post . And a i on other little post ! Hollar if ya have problems ! Be safe !
@@buggzo do just like in the video . Connect the 2 posts on your chevy starter before you put your starter on . And then mount the ford solenoid on fire wall . No parts chang them selves . Your just addin a ford solenoid to system . Still chevy starter n chevy solenoid on engine
It should . The video is my 1990 k3500 . Worked fine on the stock 454 . Swapped in a 400 sbc . And it still works great ! How many wires go to your starter ? You should be fine !
If it is a PMGR and you wire this way, it will stay running with the engine for 5 seconds after it starts. Some 95 Chev came with the PMGR starter. If you can see the bolts that hold the starter together on the outside of the case , it is a PMGR
I have a question. Last time I did that. Some how the starter would click over by. Replaced the solenoid. Don't what happened after that. Gave the car away. When the person came back later. He removed the solenoid. I didn't ask what happened.
You can make it clean if ya want ! Chevy starter solenoids suck . I was burning up a solenoid every 9 months ou so . Till i did this . Haven't fried a solenoid since ! Zero problems this way !
@@theweldor757 you are still using the Chevy solenoid. You didn’t bypass the Chevy solenoid. Juice coming from the firewall to the Chevy solenoid activates the Chevy solenoid via the shim you have in place. You’re still using the Chevy solenoid
@@theweldor757 you are still using the Chevy solenoid. Power from the firewall solenoid goes directly to the Chevy solenoid. The shim you use is live, current flows to the little terminal, meaning it’s getting power to activate the solonoid which then engages the starter. You are still using the Chevy solenoid. Easier and cleaner to just throw a wire on that little stud/terminal.
@@josemejia9349 i like using the shim . Contacts in the chevy solenoid are much weaker than the contacts in the Ford solenoid. So the firewall solenoid takes the abuse now . Not the starter solenoid . Yes your still using the chevy solenoid . But the firewall solenoid takes the abuse now this way . And the shim or wire if use one . Is "only" hot if your in crank mode . The way chevy did it . Your battery cable to the starter is "always" hot ! Ive seen alot of headers with a hole blowin in them from the cable being hot while yr driving down the road . The way im doin it here the cables dead driving down the road . You might melt a cable . But your not gonna blow a hole in your header tube ! And with the wear on the firewall solenoid you dont have to replace the chevy solenoid cause it don't wear out any more . Way better this way . Everyone that tries this including me . Says the starter seem to crank better ! It is what it is . My only regret is that i learned this at 40 years old . Rather than 20 years old . Live n learn i geuss
I know this video is old but what type of solenoid? Any Ford solenoid and what year solenoid? Any help would be appreciated. I'd like to try this in my 1961 Bel Air. I'm installing a SBC 350 in it. Thanks.
Do you have to put in the other solenoid for this to work? I’m having problems with mine and am considering doing this but not sure if it will work without the other solenoid you have on firewall
You want the other solenoid on the firewall for sure ! Its way heavy duty compared to the gm set up . I was frying a gm solenoid every 9 months or so till i did this . Havnt fried a solenoid yet doing it like in the video .
My 62 nova with 350 in it has this set up. But the solenoid gets to the point where it doesn’t fire after 3-4 months. And I’ll have replace and after 3-4 months the solenoid will do the same thing. Why do I have to keep buying solenoids? How can I fix this?
The original reason why i started wiring them the way in the video . Is because i was going through a solenoid on the starter every 9 , 10 months . Once i switched to how the video is ive never fried a solenoid , ever . On the starter it self or the one i put on the fire wall ! What are we working on brother ?
Check your ground cables . Make sure the battery is grounded real well . Preferably battery to the block . Back in them days n the 70s the ground cable went to the front corner of the block by the fuel pump . Make sure ya got good to body ground also . Best place ta start probably 🤔
Depends on why the solenoid on the starter doesnt work . If the solenoid is not working because the contacts inside are tired yah itd probably work cause your by passing that part . Id say if you already have solenoid problems its 50/50 chance of working ! Take the starter and connect the 2 posts on the starter solenoid like in the video . Then hook the starter up to jumper cables . Ground the housing and the the hot side of cables to the big post on the solenoid . It should work . That way you csn check it first !
@@theweldor757 Thank you. My issue is the hot start. Brand new starter starts right up. Once it's hot it just clicks and of course if you tap the solenoid it will start. I can move the exhaust but I don't think that will be enough. Hence the reason I'm looking for an alternative.
@@250rtrxjunkie thers a real good chance this will solve that problem ! I started doing this cause i was going through a lot of solenoids on my stuff . Ive NEVER fried a solenoid since going this routt !
Get like a mid to late 70s ford starter solenoid . 75, 76 , 77 through ther . One little pist will have a "S" by it . The other little post will have a "i" by it ! S is starter . I is ignition . Pretty straight forwards from ther brother ! Be safe ! Ya need anything hollar !
@@theweldor757 hay I see the big red wire on left side but you left the other wires out of puture man. On the silnoide on wall you were not clear can you show me where they go ..
@@kevinkoon3771 the other little black wire that ran to the starter is bottom left post on the solenoid on the fire wall . The little red wire hooked up with the black wire is from yr ignition . Hot ONLY in the key rolled to start position . Right side a solenoid is the only cable now that runs down to the starter
If you tell the parts store like mid 70s ford starter solenoid . You should be good . The one little pole has a S on it . Other little post has a i on it !
@@judahdolph9622 the small red wire comes from fuse box . Only HOT when key is rolled all the way to start position . Chevys were good about having a ignition source in fuse box . Can only be hot when key is rolled all the way to start position ! As soon as vehicle starts and you let up on key it has ta go back dead or starter will stay engaged !
@@mo2058130 if its a 88 it should be identical to the video ! If thers more than one other wire at starter solenoid let me know . Should be exactly the same as video . Make sure you connect the little post on solenoid to big post on yr starter before you put it on ! . Glad ta help out ! Be safe !
You should be ok with just like a late 70s ford solenoid . Little post on the lower left will have a S on it . Little post lower right will have a i on it . Should be good from ther buddy !
So I'm guessing the black one in the video would be a "purple" wire thats on mine and also mines 2 other fusible links that go to the starter positive terminal also?
@@Jay-dn3um sounds right off hand . If the fusable links have a big eyelet and were hooked on wher the main starter cable was . Originally those were hot all the time . Do youd put the big eyelet links on the left side big post wher battery cable runs to the solenoid . That way ther hot all the time still . Putple wire has a small eyelet it should go to little lower left S post . Hook up main battery side of solenoid last ! Roll the key but dont engage starter yet . Just mske sure those other wires arent getting hot or anything . Let it sit that way fr 5 mins with key on . Nothins getting warm or anything . Go ahead and bump the key and engage starter !
@@theweldor757 thats correct one comes the junction block on the fire wall and the other is split in 2 one from the wire harness and the other is on the white wire coming from the alternator then goes in to one that has the big eyelet and goes to the positive terminal on the starter
@@Jay-dn3um sounds like your on the right track ! Yah if they were hot all the time originally and hooked up with main battery cable . Keep em hot all the time still on hot side a the solenoid ! On a job site . Check my phone later ! Be safe !
Napa , caquest , O'Riley's Get like a mid 70s ford starter solenoid . Itll have a S by the lower left little post . Other little post on the right will have a i by it !
@@brothertate9211 if it was originally hooked up with the battery cable on starter . Put it on left side of solenoid with battery cable . If the wire was hooked to the little post originally on your starter . Put it on the S post of new solenoid . Black wire . The small red wire your going to add is the signal wire from ignition . Red signal wire can only be hot when key is rolled all the way to start vehicle . Red wire must go back dead when in run position !
They do click pretty loud when they activate ! Almost a snap . Should only click once . When you roll the key . If everything is working ok you should be fine !
When you ford guys gonna quit tryin to put lawnmower parts on chevys just re connect the two wires it came with and be done a good new starter usually outlasts the vehicle anyway why add in extra bs
In the 70s yr starter might last 10 years . The reason a machanic showed me this trick was because i was going through a starter solenoid every , , 9 , 10 months . Havnt burned up a solenoid once since going this direction in the 20, 25 years ive ben doing this ! Way better set up !
@@theweldor757 stop buying crappy starters. If youre burning up starter solenoids every 9 months youve got other issues. Ive got starters that are 30 years old that are still perfectly fine.
@@brentglad123 kinda like one a my helpers said : most ppl dont start ther vehicle 25, 30 times s day like i do ! Longest ive had a starter last is probably about 4, 5 years . That was all brand new starter . 200 bucks from BB in texas !
