On my 92 454 561k miles, I reconditioned the TBI unit, full tuneup, did the valve covers and a hydraulic lifter adjustment, set base timing at 4°, and followed your instructions on idle control and drilled the plug for the idle screw, TPS was spot on 0.49V (volt meter- red lead to the blue wire and black lead to battery ground) and man that truck starts in less than 1 crank w the key even when its cold. It pulls 10k like you dont feel it and idles like butter. Thanks!
Wow that sounded sweet when you got done with setting the idle. i'm not sure if I needed a new distributor in my 92 astro but now it's got one. I'm going to do this and then the base timing thanks to you help.
Excellent video! My '89 silverado has had a weak idle and would die with the wheel cranked or stall out in reverse. Now it runs like a top, and no more issues. Thanks for taking the time to make this video!
A Actron CP9690 code tester checks live, graphing, record, oil light reset, smog test readiness test, and MORE! It has a RPM reading to adjust the TBI.
Thank you. I just happened to have a Chevy van that always idles fast. Timing is right on 0 degrees. IAC seems functional and no known vacuum leaks to be found. I followed this procedure and now it idles perfectly. Thumbs up !!!
So if no one has messed with the idle screw; I should be able to just screw a new iac in and the comp should fully close it and then within a few miles of driving it should relearn?(93 s10 v6 -2.8)(non adjustable tps) And then I should double check the idle speed and if close im good? And should a manual trans be higher than an auto rpms? thanks great vid.
triumphil 777 Yes you are correct it should just relearn and a manual trans should have a idle 100-200rpm less than a automatic there is usually a tag on the under side of the hood or on the air cleaner or on the fan shroudthat will tell you the correct RPM
So what position was key in when jumper wire was put into A/B? Was transmission in park or neutral? After adjusting idle screw to desired RPM what's the order of diss/reconnect and battery diss/reconnect? Is there a final key off/on sequence to finalize?
So that’s probably the problem with my 1992 Silverado 6.0; the engine was replaced with a rebuilt one and now the idle surges and it shuts off at times . I checked the Egr, vacuum leaks and even changed the ignition module because it feels a little rough but still o fix. Thank you for sharing I will try to adjust the idle tomorrow
i HAVE A 1991 SILVERADO K1500 It idles to low. After normal running temp Can I just adjust the t 20 screw to raise the idle only? I dont have a muti meter. Also without a meter do i still need to bridge over the 1 and 2 pins turn key on wait 30 sec unplug the iac. Then adjust the screw, or can i adjust the screw only to raise my idle?
kevin ferrell You do need to bridge the terminals you don’t need a multimeter you can do it by ear you cannot just adjust the screw because the computer won’t know where the base idol is and that will cause an erratic idle via the IAC
FSEVENMAN A TPS that’s not adjustable can have the mounting holes drilled out slightly (oval shape) and then you can adjust it forward and backwards using an ohm meter.
sounds like your iac maybe working slow but if you want to check the tps find out the proper voltage output for your vehicle and check it some tps are not adjustable
o adjust tps on volts setting, pierce blue wire with red lead, and ground black lead. turn ing. on move tps til you get a reading of .58 volts, tighten screws and check might take a few times. holley recommends .5 - 1.0. thats why .58.
They usually do have a soft plug over it unless it has been messed with in the past 1/4 inch drill bit and go slow it's aluminum so it happens fast. once there is a hole in the cap you can usually pop it off with the same drill bit
1990 k1500 5.7, when I unplug my iac and started the truck it revs to about 2500 rpms (guessing) without adjusting. My issue is it idles too low with a slight hesitation after warm up and stalls at lights or coming to a stop but always restarts after a minute or so. Changed coil, pickup coil, ig. modul and iacv. Runs excellent now, really smooth except it randomly stalls as I mentioned. Any advice would be appreciated, thanks.
@@RCMTAdventuresOk thanks, I was just looking into that sensor. I'll change that also. I'll double check all my hoses. Tested tps, it's good also. It only has 225 kms rarely winter driven. I have a low temperature thermostat in there (for years) to keep it running cooler that's never been an issue ? Thanks again.
@@bradlambert6092 unleaded fuel burns best @198 degrees people that use low temperature t stats are shooting them self’s in the foot. It causes rich conditions and poor fuel mileage. As long as your radiator, cooling fan and clutch and fan shroud are in good condition you should never have a cooling issues
Questions I tried what you did and don't know if meter is broken or something is wrong because I followed all steps and some how I get really random numbers like 700ds and 900ds cant figure it out or my tbi need to be rebuilt
@@RCMTAdventures Which is the correct method for adjusting the idle. Which technically shouldn't be done (set by factory). The TPS is also technically not meant to be adjusted. Simply bolt on item.
@@jf4872 when you change a cam or engine displacement it may be necessary to adjust your base idle as your intake manifold pressure has changed the reason you set base idle adjustment is so that your IAC can work productively in both directions and not max out. not all TPS sensors are solidly fixed some are adjustable
Anyone know the torque specifications for the torx head screws that hold down the throttle body housing cover? Not sure if that's the correct name (Kind of y-shaped piece with infinity symbol holes that presses down on the injectors)
SPACE SHUTTLE DOOR GUNNER maybe 25 ftlbs on the throttle body to manifold if you go that tight on those little bolts he was referring to you will break them off
I have a high idle problem with my 95 7.4L. When its snowy out and i come to a stop sign my tires will lock and it will just keep pushing the whole truck same on gravel idles to high try to come to a stop and it powers threw
@@2strokesortor787 That sounds like more of a computer issue or the torque converter not disengaging......usually from the cpu not recognizing the TPS is at zero. Try to replace the TPS...if that don't work, it may be trans related.
Can someone tell me what that "RRRRRRRRRR" noise is at 5:48 so I can get my truck fixed! I can't track down what it is and I usually don't have this problem. I also don't want to take things apart without a plan. Any help would be much appreciated.
I liked the video but I have a 92. Everything is the same but GM/Rochester in their infinite smarts replaced the screw with a plug. It still has threads but there's no torx, philips or flat to stick a tool in and adjust. Any ideas?
@@RCMTAdventures seriously ?! That's just a stupid soft plug ? THANK YOU. I thought it was some crazy GM only screw that was factory set and don't touch. Thanks again !
Your video was good, but it would have been more usable for beginners if you had showed them where you were making that base idle adjustment instead of focusing your video on the meter.
Before ding this idle speed adjustment you need to turn the a/c on so that your engine will have enough idle rpm speed to not stall at red lights while using the a/c
Its on the front of the TBI, right hand side there is a metal plug covering the adjustment screw you have to remove, drill it or use a punch or even a screwdriver and a big fookin hammer (you dont need to replace it, its just to prevent people from messing with it on vehicles with electronic controlled idle)
Mine did the same thing when i turned the light switch on it would kill the power to my gauges and ac mod. I took the dash off and saw the gray wire was melted from the fuse box all the way to the radio that gray wire controls all the illumination.... Gauge lights, radio lights and ac/heater. I replace the burnt wire and made sure the other wires were ok and now it works great. Time it took was 3 hours.
Ok I figured out the dash light problem for my issues, the problem was the pigtail plug that goes to the light/parklight switch. The wire gets rigid with age. So, the spade connectors inside the plug-pigtail where loose so I bought a new pigtail plug and replaced the connector now problem is solved.
With the vehicle off make sure your not binding the throttle blades inside the throttle body take the air cleaner off unhook the throttle cable and listen usually very obviou scraping sound/pop. I've seen people set base idle with vacuum leaks and they turn out the idle screw till the plates binde to compensate for the vac leak.
to adjust tps on volts setting, pierce blue wire with red lead, and ground black lead. turn ing. on move tps til you get a reading of .58 volts, tighten screws and check might take a few times. holley recommends .5 - 1.0. thats why .58.
Don't do any of this!!!!! Key on engine off back probe the connector at the TPS with red lead do NOT Pierce wire insulation on blue wire that is a poor way to test wires and can cause the wire to fail. And ground black lead to engine or battery then adjust the voltage. But only adjust the tps AFTER you have set base RPM
pokey4200 it is a Mac tools EM710 multimeter it cost around $450 but you won't need a expensive meter to do this job. You can find a cheep one at your local Auto parts store
Outstanding! I have a decent meter (bout 100$) how can i connect it to the spark plug wire? After watching this video i did a test without the meter just using the rpm gauge, and that sucker revved up like i was trying to wake the dead lol. Literally around 2800 rpm with the iac valve unplugged and obd1 bridged.
With the iac connector plugged in and obd1 unbridged it idles around 900 and stalls when in gear sometime idleing at 500-550. Also it stalls more frequently if its hot outside...
pokey4200 have you retrieved codes from your ecu? you may have a different problem and is your base timing set correctly? Not all multimeters can read rpm mine came with a clamp that goes over a spark plug wire like a timing light
I have checked them. There are no codes, no check engine light. I have my timing advanced 4. It was 0, but it would barely idle. I have changed the tps and the iac over the past few months, but never did any calibrating as described in the video.
@@RCMTAdventures appreciate it ..found it.....www.carpartsdiscount.com/air-charge-temperature-sensor/chevrolet~camaro.html?3593=887985&3671=1002&r=2&gclid=CjwKCAjw1dzkBRBWEiwAROVDLPZSxawcvo1Gktc-s_Ks32xLRaEsAI9kerJVabyJBWmyr7mwpgu18RoCUPIQAvD_BwE
@@RCMTAdventures Does it matter with spark plug wire? And if you have a tach, can you you just adjust the screw and walk back to check and just rinse and repeat?
I have this high idle issue with a 92 2.8 S10 it's got a little bit bigger cam in it timing and Advance 12 degrees the best idle I can get it to do is a thousand unless you let it idle for 20 minutes and then it might come down to 800
Josh Stalker you can NOT advance the timing on these efi motors go thru base timing procedure thats it any more will cause issues . if your cam is to large your about to spend tons of money for a aftermarket ECU
@@RCMTAdventures that just it I'm not sure how big . It's been rebuilt just a basic rering and Bering bump up in cam but I don't have any thing on paper about the cam but when it idles at 750-800 rpms it sounds good and u can here the lope . When u drive it u ease the gas and it pulls u can feel it . 2.8L power lol but if u smash the gas and grab gears it will pull then it feels as if someone just tossed a anchor out the back but u let up a little bit and it pulls again . TPS? Or redo timeing back to 0* or what is it . Hell I can't remember ...🤔
Josh Stalker what's happening is the computer is trying to compensate for your drastic timing advance and when it starts to sense detonation in the higher rpms it is throwing into close loop or limp mode aka your anchor. Find your shunt wire and unhook it to set your base timing @ 0° once you have done this reconnect the shunt wire then with the engine off disconnect the positive from your battery and ground it this will clear any codes reconnect then go drive it. if any thing continues manually pull codes any let's see what we can figure from there. Also don't expect to hear your cam if your engine starts to lope or surge because of the cam the ECU will try to smooth it out by constantly moving the iac and electric advance because the ECU is designed to make the engine idle at one set rpm. That's why if your cam is too large your screwed
@@RCMTAdventures well i got the timeing back to 0° grounded out the positive . Drove it still high idle . And it lopes more now but no power its a slug till about 2,000 rpm and i can feel the ancor still . I jumped the aldl and pulled the iac plug out but i dindt turn the idle screw and it idles at 900 . Whould a chip help with the power or waste of time . Oh one more thing coolant temp sensor unplug it idles sweet 650-700 lopes like a top fuel dragster. Runs fine sensor is new ? Im confused isnt it supposed to idle right plugged in ? Ps sorry for lame 2.8L issues
Hello sr. I have a question. I did everything how you showed in video. And then I started a car, Idle is 1500 and not going up then i am adjusting screw.. Any Idea what i am doing wrong?
I tried punching out the cover on my throttle body for the idle screw. Nope. Didnt work for me. So I glued a zip tie to the screw pressing on the throttle itself lol
@@RCMTAdventures i have a 94 looks just like yours and the exhaust gets really really hot At night you can see them turning red So i was told maybe setting base idle would help But the info i am looking at on Google says to disconnect and plug vacuum lines
Carlos Lopez it is suppose to spray when not on the gas with engine running . Without starting the engine have some one turn the key on and off a few times cycling the fuel pump and make sure the injectors aren’t leaking fuel when it’s not running. Next read codes and get a fuel pressure reading
Ronnie Paul it’s shouldn’t make that big of a difference since it’s fuel injected maybe 10rpm and it doesn’t have a carb that is as dependent on back pressure for the venturies to properly feed fuel.
@@RCMTAdventures LOL I did my truck I didn't have a Tachometer so I just did it by ear but both times I have done it now I used your video so thank you for helping us who have no clue on what we are doing or have money to let us do it ourselves.
peralez2383 someone had messed with the idle screw before me without doing this procedure so it would stall or rev high and set a check engine light also the cam I installed was slightly bigger that changes vacuum in the intake also changing the base idle required to run
@@RCMTAdventures / Dude I really wish I could show you what the wiring looked like on the Camaro I bought a while back. It was the creme de la creme of WTF were you thinking wiring. The guy was 3/4 of the way through swapping a 6.0 ls into the car when this home made distribution block kept shorting out and after the wiring under the dash melted he gave up and sold it to me, man I didn’t even try to fix it, I just ripped it all out and got one of those universal Chinese body harnesses and went to the yard for the ls harness. And it kills me because where I’m from, I’ll fail an inspection over a wiper blade but I’ll see people on the street driving stuff that I wouldn’t use a pit vehicle
I'd replace that tensioner ...and idler it sounds really pissed...yeah first time ever bought just a belt reminded me why I get ANYTHING wrong with the belt drive system...its just more problems to pop up like asshole mother in laws!
@@3knwest Wire only needs disconnecting for doing base timing of engine. This procedure is for setting base idle( IAC) function once the timing has been set. As he stated in the video.
i changed the iac egr spark plugs spark plug wires fuel filter fuel pump ignition coil cap and rotor and still my truck dies out next step is the fuel reg . i have no idea to do what u just did nor do i thnk these fucken mechanics out here r trustful to check that out
I can't for the life of me figure out why the idle has a mind of it's own. I come to a stop and sometimes the truck revs up, which feels like it's trying to take off. My operating temp isn't 210. It's usually hovers around 150. Might need to change the thermostat.
@@RCMTAdventures Do you still have this truck? When ever I spray throttle body cleaner or starting fluid around the egr. The engine idles down a little. If yours doesn't do anything. Maybe I have a leak around the egr
@@GOD719 It's supposed to do that. If you jumper the A and B pins on the ALDL, the ECU will enter Diagnostic Mode. The code for this is 12. Codes are reported by flashing the Check Engine light for each digit in the two-digit code. All stored codes will flash three times, always starting with 12 to let you know the ECU is in Diagnostic Mode and reporting codes. So if for instance you had a code 32 stored, you would see "1 2 1 2 1 2 3 2 3 2 3 2", then it loops back to the start again. If you don't have any codes it will flash "1 2 1 2 1 2", then repeat the same thing again. This will appear to just be endless repetitions of "1 2", forever. So if you count four "1 2" flashes you can stop looking. No codes.
