these are the few things that i have done to the truck so far. i forgot to mention that i also changed the plugs and wires, also the cap and rotor. they were in bad shape and so that could have come into play with the gain in hp.
They sure lay down a hell of alot of low rpm torque, and torque is what moves you. These engines are some of the best GM ever made as far as durability and realiability goes. I've seen fleet trucks with TBI engines with over 400K on the clock still going strong.
Got one right now with near 500k on it still running she’s due a tune up though 😂rough idle/dies when changing into gear most of the time, and wide open throttle is non existent as it cuts out and sputters like it’s running outta gas. Old 3500 350 tbi bell south truck
The biggest problem with the lid flip is now your sucking in hot air from the engine bay. A better idea is to get or make a second intake horn and route both horns to a fender or to the radiator support thus allowing more cool air into the intake. A cooler air charge equals more power.
It’s really hard to do this with these pickups because most intake tubes are metal. That metal will get really hot from the engine bay temps. By the time it gets through the tube to the tb you got hot air again. I figure a lot of hot air is better than a little less hot air
@@jakerish570 the heat port you are talking about in the snorkel. Has a temp operated flap in it. It's open when cold to allow air coming across the exhaust manifold to be heated to help the engine warm up faster. When that flap reaches a certain temp it closes allowing only fresh air coming from outside the fender to come in. But ! those flap's are know to screw up and not work at all or stay open to hot air all the time. They really don't do much for the warm up process so I usually pin mine so it stays open to fresh air all the time.
Yeah...and it really helps keep the hot air from escaping the engine bay...make sure to get all that sucked right into the engine where itll make that extra "about 20 horsepower" lol
cheap also. grab ya a aftermarket computer a 2x4 intake manifold and run 2 of the tbi units from the 454. and get the old school look. cheap and reliable fuel inj. easy to work on. and 2 of them wouldnt have any issues supporting 500-550 hp with a aftermarket puter. Or grab a 3x2 intake and run 3 of the 4.3l or 5.0 units. would look pretty sweet. differences between the 4.3 5.0 and 5.7 units is just injector size. its been years but i think the 4.3 had 45 pph injectors. the 5.0 was 50s or 55s and the 5.7 was a bit larger. i used to remember these but its been so many years. all the injector pods are interchangable
i personally have added a spacer done the lid flip and eliminated the pcv ring and then upgraded my filter to a k&n then eliminated my pcv valves and dumped them into a blow by can .i can tell you this my throttle response if phenomenal now, hp has definitely increased. now yes you sacrifice fuel mileage but if your looking for gainz for little to no money its a good start. its by no means a major upgrade but every little bit does help
i would love to eliminate my pcv ring to have one less line running under the hood. what does this involve? I already eliminated the old intake by just using an S bolt and a normal single bolt intake lid set up. Not sure if it will breath better or not this way yet though as im not yet done with my 5.0- 5.7 tbi swap on my 93.
@@bradleyburnett4470 i bought some adapters at my local part store and just dumped the crank case exhaust down and out at my wheels.using some rubber hose
In the case of a tbi setup they usually go off of just the coolant sensors temp, air temp sensors are on my newer mutiport or multiple injector engines but even then that's manly 2005 and up.Turning he lid upside-down depending on the size of the old breather that it would have been sucking air through plus the amount of supporting mods to the engine can and in allot of cases will make a slight difference.
He is right about what he has done the tbi mod he did does help. But instead of the air cleaner flip crap, get a cold air intake kit or regular air filter base and top 14".
Unless you plumbing that to pick up actual fresh air not just sticking off to the side of the engine all you're really ingesting is more hot air which defeats the purpose. If they would run it up like on the old Chryslers and Dodge and cut a hole in the radiator support so that it could actually feed nothing but cool air you might be on something there.
I took a old Carb air cleaner and drilled out the stud holes and put a carriage bolt in the old stud hole at it worked great. I even paired my valve covers the old fashioned Chevy orange, it looks pretty sexy now.
just grinding off a little of the tbi and trimming the rubber wont get you hardly anything at all. and yes the lid flip helps a little but not a lot either. Ive got edelbrock SCCA heads, a tbi performer intake, a 454 throttle body with a custom cnc'd adapter, a tbi spacer, a custom filter tray and a flow through top. comp cams extreme energy cam and lifter kit, complete flowtech exhaust y pipe system, ported heads, intake, and headers, and a custom chip. On a mustang dyno I hit 370hp and 355tq.
Cool my daily 86 c10 is 5.3 LS swapped with a Gt35 turbo on it. Makes 415 at the wheels on just 12lbs of boost safe tune. It is a bone stock 100k miles motor I got for $350 at the junk yard. I got turbo for $100 my buddy rebuilds them. Been driving this combo 3 years now. When it blows I'll put another junkyard LS in it for next to nothing. Truck has 3 inch drop springs 3 inch rotors for a 6 inch drop in the front and four link rear end set up 12 bolt rear on coil overs since we're bragging for no reason. I also have a tube chassis 63 Nova don't weigh shit LS twin turbo makes 1200hp
Well I looked up everything wrong with a tbi 350 cuz I just bought a 95 1500 and this was the second video so now she’s good for another 300k. Thanks for the help man👌
I did the same modification on my dyno we tested this over lunch we were all laughing we actually lost power due to a hot engine. The one setup brings in colder air. When you do this you take all hot air now in and we lost power. Always seems like you gain power on your seat when you do the work but a dyno will always tell you the truth. Thanks guys we had a good laugh over this.
You can pick up a extra 10 hp by running synthetic blinker fluid, also stage 2 muffler bearings will pick up about 30 ftbs of torque ...still testing the power gains from adding a JEGS sticker I will let you know the power gains after I download that horse power app you got
+Dan Gerous Don't forget that using synthetic grease over regular in your muffler bearings is also good for a few free HP. And those little Turbo whistlers you stick on the tail pipe help suck out back pressure for more free HP.
I'd love to see how it runs after all those metal shavings went in the motor (i'm obviously kidding, I know he put seafoam in so it won't hurt it, I'm not an idiot)
There's so much misinformation in these comments. 1. Yes, the TBI cam and heads are really weak, and upgrading these will get you the most gains. However, most of these tricks help in small ways and are popular mostly because of their low cost. The TBI computer is really sensitive, so any major changes will require reprogramming that will up your costs if you don't know how to do it yourself. 2. Exhaust upgrades are great, the factory Y pipe was DESIGNED to flow badly; this was to help the one-wire O2 sensor heat up. If you modify to a better flowing exhaust system and convert to a 3-wire self-heating O2 sensor your engine will breath better. Remember, a motor is basically just a big air pump and if you increase your air intake ability, it helps to increase your air output. 3. Deleting the cat can help, but its better to install a high-flow cat and stay environmentally friendly. Unless the cat is old and clogged it most likely won't affect your engine much to have one. Plus if you travel out of state you can stay legal; a cat-free system has a different smell, and supposedly cops in some areas will pull you over if they notice it. I live in an area without inspections myself, but I like to stay legal in case I travel somewhere that isn't. 4. For MOST MODERN APPLICATIONS a throttle body spacer is snake oil, completely useless. However, the concept comes from carburetors and actually does help with a TBI. More complex systems with high pressure fuel rails won't see any difference, but the spacer on a TBI helps with fuel atomization. 5. The lid flip can help a LOT, but not for the reason people think. From the factory these air cleaners are designed with essentially a cold air intake that breathes air from outside the passenger fender. However, they have a small tube that reaches down to the exhaust manifold and a flapper inside the breather. This flapper is close when the engine is cold, forcing it to breath through that small tube and suck hot air off of the exhaust manifold. As the air cleaner warms up a little wax-based actuator opens the breather flap so it can suck cold air from outside. The warm air at startup helps a LOT on a cold engine's idle, and the smaller tube acts like a choke. What most people don't realize is that over the years that flap actuator stops working, meaning the flap inside stays closed and chokes the engine of air all the time. So when you do the lid flip, or install an open-element breather your engine automatically breathes much better. You can take that flap off and block off the small tube on the factory air cleaner, and as long as you still have the plastic thing to the fender you get a fairly efficient cold air intake; however, doing this causes your engine to idle rough from a cold start and smooth out after warming up. An open element air cleaner is kind of a compromise; you have warmer air for the warmer engine, sacrificing efficiency, but from a cold start you have slightly warmer air going in for a smoother startup idle.
Justin Oakes damn bro you are well informed I have an 85 tbi chevy caprice classic. What is your opinion on throttle body spacers with older cars? Does open air filters promote fuel atomization?
That spacer ring is more important than most people think.. Ive seen dyno tests before and after where the vehicle (Camaro) lost almost 40ft-lbs up top...the ring straightens the air out a lot better than most think it does.
Interesting thinking on the air system, I know the up air lid makes for the more power sounds but put it right and duct it into the inner fender and put the tabs back on that you cut off the top of the tbi for stronger air velocity to mix the fuel on a non forced air induction motor
Yeah 20 hp gain is false...i have done same thing on better scale and its no 20 hp gain...throttle a little quicker....that air breather is messing your flow all up
You need to just go ahead and install a cold air intake after grinding the tbi. Your just getting hot air with the lid flip. I installed a airaid with the salad bowl and made a custom box around the filter the links to the fender vent to get as much cold air as possible. You can also get the salad bowl with 2 pipes to get the air from both fender vents… also a power aid throttle body spacer dosent hurt…
Lid flip works! You think that stock cold air intake is still cold after it’s passed by the air filter housing? These underhood temps are high in the obs chevys. It heats up that housing and radiates that heat inside too. Also more air is always better than cold air, within reason
Want more power out of a 350? Cut off the tube from the exhaust manifold so it only gets cool air. Upgrade the cam and give it a 4° offset. Headers Edelbrok intake manifold. Complete tune up. Flipping the air intake cover sucks hot ass air out of the engine bay and degrades the life of the engine. NEVER alter your TBI. He ground off the fuel safety catch walls that made sure fuel went into the intake and doesnt catch fire if the engine ever happens to backfire.
I would not recommend that. It’s part of your crankcase ventilation. I put a small washable filter where the tube comes out of the motor and then plugged the hole in the tbi collar. Fresh filtered air is now run past the small filter through the crank and into the intake via the pcv valve
Go to goodwill and find a bowl who's bottom is approximately the same diameter as the spacer. Cut the bottom out and use as bottom of air filter. My car hood clearance was an issue you should be fine. This will allow for airflow from the side. This was from a Carcraft Dyno session. I had one on my 88 Monti Carlo you could always try one real quick without the filter and see if it works as good as it did on mine.
the lid flip seems to have some effect, ive test drove mine with and without it fliped and it does seem to accelerate faster with it fliped. the only downside is if you drive in the mud alot like i do. you will be buying alota new air filters due to water and mud gettin on it
Heads and cam it , put a carb intake on it run a carb to tbi adapter on it, bigger injectors , set the timing at 12 degrees run super unleaded. True duals 2.5 pipes. No cats etc , free it up. Tbi is good but you have to build around it.
looks completely legit. i am going to suggest this (but not the lid flip) for a friends current project. i was also considering moving the injector wires. lines, wires and cables have an enormous amount of drag. more than one might think.
Just a side note most the time that throttle body has the screw-in spot so you can eliminate the two air cleaner studs and go to a single arched stud so you can run a regular air cleaner or a traditional air cleaner
Even with the throttle body spacer and flipping the lid doesn't cause no problem with closing the hood does it ? Cause I thought about doin the throttle body to mine but I was scared the hood wouldint close or it would be a pain in the ass to close it
@MrAss707 not really the stock intake manifold isnt that bad save money on the edelbrock intake port and poilsh the old one and throw a 460 lift cam in it and a nice set of headers youll be good!
What's your experience with the 'lid flip' vs. cold air intake? I'd think introducing cold, dense air to the TBI unit would be more valuable than introducing more radiator-warm air. What do you think?
I don't think a cold air intake it's worth all that money you can spend anywhere from $100/$300 for a cold air intake kit and anyways you don't see hot rods on the track with that stuff on they take all that stuff off. That's my opinion so.
It doesn’t really introduce cold air though. The obs underwood temps are so high that the air filter housing gets hot and radiates all that heat inside the intake as well. Your air is probably 30% warmer by the time it’s in the intake manifold than it was behind the fender
@@coleknight7572 To a certain extent, maybe, at low vehicle and engine speeds, say, off-idle. However, the cold airflow at highway speeds and increased increased engine breathing, higher RPM, overcome underhood heat very quickly. That's why off-the-line speeds are so much better coming right off a highway run: no heat soak on underhood engine parts, and particularly the intake manifold.
Cold airflow isn’t really that cold though. Almost all new air in the engine bay has already passed through the 170* radiator. That air is at least 40 over ambient. Highway would definitely help though not denying that. I have a 95 k1500 and lid flip helps with response mostly but always helps hot or cold ambient hot or cold engine temp
I put an open air filter on my truck and really haven’t noticed much difference. I put long tube headers on as well. Do I need a tube to see a performance difference?
I used a 82 chevy top half (lid) on my air cleaner and now a almost 6 inch tall filter fits in it and it looks stock still using the stock cold air system but with a 6 inch tall filter. And the hood shuts and everything LOL
There's a reason to breathe through that housing and snorkel. No different from cold air intake. Now you're just ingesting hot air from under the hood.
OKE heres a few real performance tips from someone who actually knows what they're talking about. Changing the spring in the injector to 18 lbs and using a 1996 up Vortec fuel pump is all the modifications needed to the TBI unless you use one that's been machined (bored) to 2 inches. A K&N Velocity stack summit part # 58-1190 will unshroud the injectors and create a non restrictive intake. Beyond that a nearly stock engine wont see any benefit other than using orange chevy valve springs with 110 lbs of seat pressure @ 1.7 inches and a set of 1 &5/8s headers and performance mufflers. Replace the swirl port junk heads with a set of ZZ4 / L98 corvette aluminum heads, a Weiand 8000 EGR spread bore intake (based on the Weiand stealth intake) and a ZZ4 hydraulic roller cam and these TBI injection run great. They'll flow 585+ cfm on a superflow flow bench. The 2 inch will flow as much as 650 cfm depending on other factors. Ive built far to many of these to know what works and what doesn't. I run 1.75 Hooker full length headers into 2.5 inch Flowmasters. The more work you do the more changes to the prom will need to be done. Sinister Performance programmed my chip, I gave them my engine specs, tranny & torque converter, gear ratio, and tire size and they took all that data and dialed in my EPROM. A GM 2732a EPROM isn't exactly expensive and they're pretty good at dialing them in. Leave modifying the throttle bodies to ppl who know what they're doing not some schmuck with a Dremel rotary tool.
I'm rebuilding my 95 k2500 motor in a couple weeks was going to be swap to gm cam # 14097395 Which I believe is the lt1 roller cam and from what I read does not need to be reprogramed what do you think? And what other modification should I do best bang for the buck?
@@jdias51 ebay theyre about 120 dollars used. youll need an adapter plate Trans Dapt # 2206 and a 1 inch spacer Trans Dapt #2733 to clear the egr breather. you can get those at jegs or summit. the plate has the holes for the throttle body cut in the rear so it flows into the wide part of the plenum. this also means you can use the existing throttle cable and bracket. This set up works a lot better than the Holley and Edelbrock TBI intakes which arent any better than a stock manifold.
@@jdias51 holy crap that is a seriously small cam 196/206 duration .431/.451 lift. that cam will peak at about 4500 rpm. if using a stock chip is your main concern go to Sinister Performance and get a chip from them for around 100 dollars and put a real cam in the engine to so you can take advantage of the performance. use ZZ4 heads casting number 113 and Lunati cam # 20080660 213/219 duration .447/.471 lift. this combo should bring you close to if not higher than 350 hp. A ZZ4 uses a 208/221 duration .474/.509 lift and isnt as good as the Lunati as far as performance goes. above that an LT4 hot cam is a really good cam and is whats in my truck now and it did make an improvement and i still use the same chip with the ZZ4 cam. A good set of 113 casting heads on Ebay is 300 dollars. put Manley springs #22410 and retainers # 23652 and set them up for 1.75 inches. the retainers add .050 to the installed height and have 130 lbs of seat pressure which is fine with hydraulic roller cam engines. This set up has beat every Vortec engine ive raced. if youre sweating fuel economy dont because it actually gets better gas mile than it did with the stock 210 hp turd the truck cam with.
What you need to do, since this is a truck, is determine how much space is between the hood and the top of the air cleaner when the lid is put on properly. If there are several inches of clearance then you could fashion a taller velocity stack between the base of the air cleaner and the throttle body. Velocity stacks for carburetors had a similar fit to the throttle bores as does this throttle body injection system. The next thing you'd do is that you'd run the air cleaner without the lid flipped over....so its properly sealed and contained. The snorkel inlet of the air cleaner needs to be ducted to the front of the truck as you would be fashioning a RAM AIR inlet system. I do not know how the factory routed the inlet system but usually they did not take air in with the inlet facing forward....they usually faced sideways and not with the forward air flow as the truck would travel forward.....or there was an obstruction blocking the inlet. Some mid 1960's race cars that had the 4 round headlight systems, they took out the high beams and used the ports as the inlets for a dual snorkel ram air inlet system. The RAM AIR will use the forward travel and the air resistance to force air into the motor as the truck is in motion. The faster the truck travels, the more air gets forced in to the motor. The flipping the lid thing doesn't force air into the motor as it only allows the natural draw in of the cylinders to bring the air/fuel mixture to the combustion chambers. The better air inlet system would be a cowl induction system as there is more air pressure in front of the windshield as the truck would be traveling forward. SO you would either need a cowl induction hood scooped hood, or if the layout is right with the trucks cowling and the fire wall, you might be able to cut a port in the upper firewall to tap the boxed area where the windshield wiper mechanism would be if its an isolated box chamber that's vented up in front of the windshield. Not all vehicle are suitable to modify for a cowl induction system if the elements for a cowl system are not present in the trucks body design, you would have to have a cowl hood scooped hood. If there are doubter's, you can use masking tape and some ribbon or strips of news paper taped to the hood , on the hood in front of the windshield and drive down the road and watch the ribbons getting sucked into the cowl port. The cowl induction system has more pressure than a ram air system......but the ram air system is usually easy to fabricate with the factory parts that are present on the truck. Either way, the added boost in cylinder filling doesn't approach that of a blower or turbo system, but its far more better than just relying on the natural draw of the engine cylinders to fill the cylinder with air/fuel mixture for maximum efficiency. ANd you need a free flowing exhaust system to compliment the intake but not too big of pipes as going too big robs torque & power within the power band of street driving. Your best bet is to add on an MSD 6A ignition box to the existing factory ignition & distributor as it will get a complete burn of the air/fuel mixture with multiple sparks up to 3000 rpm......considering street driving is between idle and about 3000 rpm. ANd the next biggest improvement would be using an old set of wires to utilize the boots and snap connectors and make yourself a real wire...wire set using heavy gauge copper wire from an electric supply house and solder the terminals on the wire......that would get the full energy of the coil to the plug......and you'd never need a new set of wire ever again.
Keep in mind that a ram air system needs to draw air more up off the ground and don't use the fog light ports in the bumper or use an inlet under the bumper. The first olds 442 cars used a low inlet port for their ram air systems and they picked up too much road dust which made the air filters get dirty really fast, so the raise the ram air ports up higher on the car to minimize the road dust situation. The air cleaner should have a heat riser flapper door that ducts air off the exhaust manifold and the flapper door is usually vacuum operated. You'd want to block the vacuum so the flapper door stays open to the outside forced air......cooler air has more density and power potential. You'd also want to make sure all the duct seams are sealed with duct tape so their is no air leakage and all the air in the duct goes right in to the cylinders of the motor.
if you do opt for a cowl induction by cutting the firewall to get into the windshield wiper chamber....don't cut too low into the chamber....you want to cut high as there is a way for rain water to drain as it should in the chamber....and not drain into your inlet system because you cut low and in to the bottom of that chamber.
If a guy was to install heat deflectors on the exaust manifolds ,would that not keep the engone bay temps down up to 70%? As well as installing another deflector between the rad to the front of the motor,thus deflecting hot air off the rad downwards away from the intake ? then u could have a honkin open air cleaner ?
I find it funny everyone is hating on these mods, without realizing this isn't like other fuel injected engines. A lot of these mods are dyno proven, as they're all taking place at, or after, the fuel/air mixing.
Yeah idk about the lid flip it comes stock with a pretty good cool air intake already if anything just get a less restrictive air filter and cut a hole in your fender thats what im about too do once i get some more stuff👌
Ok have a 93 5.7. First hyper tech chip, power pully's and s'can that boat anchor catalytic converter. Then flow master 44 3" into two 2 1/2s. Runs like a scalded dog. Smoked a 96 vortec. Pulled away and left him at 115.
I'm sorry I missed the part where the hose that connects to the back of that ring that goes to the pcv valve. So what did you do with that? Asking for a friend
Here in Mexifornia the mods you did will make the vehicle fail the 'visual inspection' part of the smog test. Specifically the air cleaner lid flip. The other mods will not give much, if any noticeable performance gains, but throttle response may improve slightly. A good filter such as a K&N that fits in the stock housing is a good investment and best for off road dust and dirt protection. My '94 Chevy K1500 with a 5.7 L V-8, Transdapt spacers on the TBI AND injectors, K&N filter with a 3" Flowmaster exhaust system with a cat runs strong for what I use it for as a bike hauler to the dez and mild off roading. It passes smog and is problem-free. All the mods were bolt-on and easily reversible if ever needed.
I also did the tbi riser plate spacer , cold air intake and throttle body spacer and have taken it to get sniffed twice here in Southern California and passes no problem. I don’t think if I was to shave or the lip on the throttle body the smog technician would even notice as they don’t take off the cover on the filter…
tbi will run forever but will never be a power house. save cash find a 5.3 or better yet 6.0 from the junk yard with ecm and harness. you will never look back. these trucks are lighter then the new ones so with a ls they run really well.
Yes vitamin ls. I took my tbi 350 out of my 94 gmc put it in a 81 camaro with a carburetor it runs really strong in that car. But never really did in the truck. Must be the carburetor. I guess.
yes but I was talking about how much smother it is with the carb. it revs faster and higher even with the clutch in. I think the stock tune on tbi didt run enough timing.
@@therealboofighter lol....you ask for a handout. Someone is pointing something out that hurt your feelings. You're a hack dude ...pretending you gain 20hp grinding that away.... Get a better cam ....all the shit you have done doesn't do shit. I needs more lift as those 2.8's have turd cams stock. Well known btw .
friend, can you help me please, I have a Chevrolet suburban 1500 5.7 vortec 1996, I made the TBI carburetor and distributor, I had the camshaft altered a bit in stage 2 and I put an aluminum radiator with electric fans (the problem is that it It heats up after 15 or 20 minutes and the time according to the mark on the pulley is not left, I move the distributor and not Measure the time) What is the problem? can you help me
The TBI 5.7 has a poorly designed exhaust system. A cam will not do you much good until you replace the factory Y pipe. The tech guys with hotrod magazine did a small write up on appropriate exhaust tubing diameter for an expected amount of horse power, and you would have better exhaust gas velocity with 2.5". You can also pick up a cheap dremmel and radius the TB volutes. Make sure it's at 13psi fuel pressure, slap a K&N filter on and these simple changes will get you about as far along as you can be unless you want to swap heads/cam... 180whp to 220ish probably.
ok so this most likey wont give you 20hp but if you properly sand and smooth the TB then your throttle response is so much better youll actullay see a diffrence
use a extra or make an extra injector pod spacer/gasket. double them up to raise the injectors about 1/8th inch. getting them out of the tbi throttle bores. helps flow. smooth the entries or mill down the throttle bore "horns" and radius them properly. pop the small brass button out of the bottom of the fuel pressure regulator. put a small slit in its screw. now it can be adjusted for a bit more pressure. no need to spend on a aftermarket one. yes a tbi spacer DOES help on these. its a wet flow setup like a carb. so they do help. and a better filter setup. thats a good bit of work but its free. or buy the 670 cfm unit from holley. which o would reccomend. it has bigger injectors "no tune needed " and 2 1/16" throttle bores. HUGE and i mean massive compared to the stock unit. ive gone both of these routs. butnill say yank it off and throw a 650 cfm carb on it and run circles around the tbi... no bs there. the carb will flat out smoke even the 670 holley tbi. been there done that
I see better performance with the air actually being pulled in from the outside as it is colder coming in. Mabe runnig a bigger pipe to somewhere that air can be pulled or even forced in from outside.
Cowl hood, raise the air cleaner up into the cowl scoop, foam seal to hood. Will draw cool air from the low pressure area at base of the windshield. That's what cowl induction is.
I have a 94 Cheyenne 2500 on its second tbi motor. Motor has about 150000 truck has 336000. 3 3/4 exhaust straight piped headers back. I just bought it. What can i do about the shut off at 105 mph? And how can i get there faster for cheap?
I cut the front out of mine making it like a ram air, only issue is it sucking in warm air, in return less power. But in my case I didn't see or notice any difference, and the sound it makes is pretty awesome!
No comment about that I've done that and other things to my 90 Silverado that I was wondering other than removing the cat how I could gut it with it being 26 inches long and 13 inches wide I have seen some videos where people use screwdrivers but I would like a 26 inch long drill bit I'm assuming and I don't want anything left in there it has to be on there where I live but it does not have to pass emissions makes no sense so I must gut it any suggestions would be appreciated 👍
Quest for 400 hp tbi! Vortec heads the 09 something dunno can't recall off hand, long tube headers with an extra hole for O2 sensor for left and right bank spliced to the single sensor, .470 roller cam and 1.5 roller rockers, tbi to vortec manifold, 454 throttle body, port matched gaskets and msd ignition. Stock computer. It's all about manipulation but OBD1 is chip transferable so you get the idea. Maybe chip mod will hurt it or maybe not🤔
The hose is the counter part of the PCV valve. It blows air into the valve cover while the PCV does the opposite. A lot of people put a small filter in the hole and be done with it. Its best to just leave it connected.
No. The PVC draws crankcase vapor into the intake. With the PVC drawing out vapors fresh air needs some place to enter or you will have neg pressure, like sucking through a straw with your finger over the other end. That hose goes to the air cleaner/spacer so filtered air enters. That is until the engine gets excessive blowby then it will draw what the PVC can't and turns the inside of the air cleaner nasty with oil. Gets this black gummy stuff around the tube area. Old cars don't have PVC or anything just vents to the atmosphere.
Lid flip is a easy way to negate any HP gain. Ooh sounds good but now you're ingesting hot engine bay air vs cooler air through the snorkel and fender.
quit fucking picking on the dude,he's trying to do his best,ya know.quit hating damn.if you don't have anything good to say don't WATCH THE VIDEO,and why did some of you watch it if you think its junk? i have 95 Z71 but i put a crate engine in mine but it still has the crappy TBI and it sucks ass,and to get a EFI system is a thousand bucks.i don't have a spare grand lying around.so nothing wrong with listening to tips and things that people try.
How to improve a tbi for power , pull tbi motor . Install new motor with good flowing heads 10.1 compression with carb. Change sending unit in tank for carb set up .
I've got an 88' GMC 350, and I've noticed when I take that metal ring/collar off, the air cleaner unit(because it's now sitting lower) runs into stuff in the back like the distributor cap/wires etc..did you have this problem?
Don't do either of these, the ring helps with pcv, pcv keeps more vacuum on your crank case and helps your rings seal for more power. And flipping the top over sucks in hot air instead of getting air from outside the car like the cleaner should using the piping on the side of the cleaner that this guy apparently took off, he didn't help with flow much, killed parts of the pcv system and made his incoming air much hotter
I was thinking the same thing there goes the pvc and shaving the throttle body down for more air was stupid they designed it that way to flow with the least amount of restriction and then tune the computer to it through timing so changing that might make a mixture issue. I bet the computer will recognize the change either rich or lean not sure the direction it will take if not both under certain conditions. And then yea sucking in hot air this guy honestly hurt performance more than anything,Wait for that check engine light.
can you use and just cut the original studs for securing the air lid into place if you have the double posts? i have a very well kept, all original, nothing missing 1994 chevy suburban silverado edition. with barn doors, captains seats in the front. all power everything and it all works. and its got the 5.7 350 tbi in it. but i swear it hauls too much ass for it to be bone stock. an old man bought it brand new off the lot and garage kept it with barely any use and regular religious maintenence for the first 20 years of its life. then he passed and gave it to his daughter who daily'd it till it was about 27. and then i paid 1500 for it with 142k original miles on body and motor. and i brought it up to 158k
W/o a Dyno test I doubt it all. All you've done is create more breathing ability but that doesn't back up the gains you've said. If it were that easy, everybody would be doing it. Adding headers would be more in line with the figures you quoted.
