This old Chevy Silverado decided to quit on the owner and would not re-start. He tells me it might be the fuel pump going out... Of course we must do a 100% confirmation of the problem before loading up the parts cannon! Enjoy! Ivan
One way to get the pump out is to unbolt the bed bolts and lift the drivers side of the bed. Stick in a jack stand to hold it up and you can get to everything you need to replace the pump. The bed bolts are cheaper to replace than the straps if they get boogered up and easier to do that than drop the tank without a lift. Done a few like that in my driveway. Was easier for me. Just my $.02.
You are a WIZARD!!! I kept getting told that my security system was keeping it from working but it had already been wired to ignore it and then this video helped me get it started to get home and guarantee it was a fuel pump.
On my '98 Windstar, I had the fuel pump fail with similar results. I hot wired the pump like you did. I was able to hit the tank and turn the pump on, hit it again and turn it off! LoL. Oh, this was done in the rain sitting on the side of the road! My test light was a bulb from one of the interior lights. I had for some reason a length of speaker wire in the van. Love the way you think! Keep the cool videos coming!
Man great video. Thanks for the walk thrue. My suburban did the same thing. Followed your steps and smashed the fuel tank and pump came back on. Now truck starts and runs again. But yes I am replacing fuel pump. Thank you.
Got 175k out of a Delphi pump 2004.Now has 370k still runs perfectly. All my GM trucks have over 250 k only pump s wheel bearing and minor electric issues.
Nice that you're working on a truck, I have an 01 express conversion van, 4.3, the duel pump, doesn't make any noise, the van is running, but barely, the pump, was always noisy, but bow nothing!
Very informative video, I have a fuel pump that primes and starts , but then shuts off. Using your info, I'm going to try and diagnose the problem, thank you.
This just saved my ass holy shit just stopped to get something to eat at 11 at night truck would start and stall immediately sat the there for 2 hours trying to figure it out. No tools expect a hammer and some finger nail clippers. I cut stripped some wire off i had running for some accessory lights for the jumper with clippers knocked on the tank a couple times to get it going made just the 30 miles home. Saved me time and money not getting it towed home or to a shop. Now to change this pump lol thanks for video greatly appreciated
Another way to empty a gas tank. Work best with shop air or a good set of lungs ! Force the drain hose through the fill port down to the bottom of the tank. Now insert a SECOND smaller hose into the filler. Take a shop rag and use it the best you can to seal the 2 hoses in the filler neck. Blow (or use shop air) into the small hose. Once fuel starts coming out into your catch can, you can stop blowing.
Ivan, I always wonder why you don't open up a shop, with the talent you have you'll make a killing...... then I see the view of the workshop you have now, nahhhh, I wouldn't move either lol. love your skills brotha! Thank you for sharing with us.
Agree and wish he would open up one also. Two reasons. Getting into a somewhat controlled work environment. And second to discourage the ones that are looking for something next to nothing. I may be wrong but think when someone goes to the shop they're looking for a fair price and may not be thinking about when someone comes to them their expense is beginning as soon as they are in route. Agree with Freddy, and just think that people would be elated to bring their stuff to you , even if it has to be towed, to your own shop. I am lucky, and very satisfied with my mechanic/mechanics (father son team) and know you would do excellent, like Eric. If people didn't like you, they wouldn't be saying this. Thanks for the great uploads/best wishes !
That pump running verified all kinds of circuits. Loved the diagnostics with old school testers. "Ohh pretty" That cracked me up. I failed the question. I guess it's back to scannerdanner's book!
TO DRAIN THE TANK I JUST USE MY FUEL PRESSURE GUAGE AND USE THE SCHRADER VALVE ALONG WITH A U-ACTIVATE TOOL I BOUGHT WHEN I SAW SCANNER DANNER USE ONE. I ALSO JUST LIFT UP THE TRUCK BED INSTEAD OF DROPPING THE TANK.
Another fine method. I also bought the uActivate tool a year ago, but only used in ONCE. A fused jumper is always at hand for me and it makes you think the circuit through a bit to avoid flying sparks lol
Smart way to empty the tank ! Most (all ?) cars with electric fuel pumps has a "port" to connect a pressure gauge. If you can get the proper fitting that would depress the Schrader valve (or what ever they use on non-US vehicles) and a hose, you would not have to crawl underneath. Except to whack the tank !
I considered that too, but in this case it was easier to just clip on a quick connect fitting, use a short hose to the gas can, and sit back watching her fill up...until the pump completely crapped out haha ;)
No no, don't remove the, don't drop the tank, leave the gas and it. Just take the bolts out and lift the bed up on one side secure it up in the air with a Jack and a piece of pipe or sick or something. Block it up where it will not fall. And there you are, full access to the pump assembly.
Ivan, thanks for another great vid! I thoroughly enjoy watching them all. You are a very smart guy! And I really liked the little pop-quiz there, feel free to include more of those! Greetings from Norway
Dorman makes a repair kit for the filter line. On the really crusty ones I just cur them and install the repair kit. It's about $32 here. Takes about 15 min and I've never had a leak or a come back. Beats messing with rusted lines for an hour.
Yeah I bought the whole Dorman nylon line kit with adapters a while back. Eric O. recommended it and it works great! That will be the solution for this truck when the lines finally do go...
Ivan. I have a 2004 Chevy silverado 1500 z71 5.3L. You can hear the fuel pump prime, and it starts like normal and purrs for about 3 seconds and dies. When I pulled the relay, I got power on 30 and ground on pins 85 & and 87, but nothing on 86 with my test light. I think in your video, you said you should get ground on 86? I also get 55psi at the fuel rail after prime. I drained the full tank today by jumpering per your video. The pump drained the fuel pretty fast and didn't make any strange noises. My gut tells me it's not really the fuel pump. The only dtc's are class 2 data link malfunctions. U1000-17 for PPS, U1000-17 for SIR and U1000-13 for BCM. Any troubleshooting advice would be greatly appreciated.
Did you consider raising the bed on one side to get to the pump from the top? Take the bolts out of the left side loosen the ones on the right side, prop the tank up to get access.
Great video and content. Only one thing. How douou diagnose a random die and drive? Driving truck shuts down. Restart truck runs like in limp mode. Then it runs fine . Shut it off and restarts no issues . Drives fine . Then it might do the same . So the question if it dies while driving i guess you have to have all your tools with you and diagnose the problem on the side of the highway if it dosent die in the drive way. Might be the ground? Idk
This was an excellent video Ivan. In non rust belt areas it might be easier to lift the bed. I could see there might be problems if you had a rusty bed and hardware.
Ivan I replaced the pump twice on my 2002 Chevy and the first time I took the box off and the second time I did the tilt bed method . I have what might be a odd question. on the pump relay the 4 pins will go in in both directions the control side or the load side. Is the relay manufactured to go in either way.
Hey Steve, yeah in this case you can turn the 4-pin relay 180 degrees no problem. Other relays are designed with anti-spiking diodes, and for those to work properly the control-side current can only flow one way. Did you see that relay was made in Canada? :)
I know what I'm carrying on road trips from now on in my '07 Silverado - a rubber mallet, and a jump wire. :D Interesting vid! You've got a beautiful spot there Ivan - what a view! Looks like a great neighborhood. :)
I’m having the same problem with my 01. My truck is starting and firing for two seconds before stalling. when I scan it I’m not finding any trouble codes. It’s weird I’m thinking it’s possibly the fuel pump. Does anyone have suggestions that would be appreciated thank you.
I had a problem after changing fuel pump. I had a collapsed line on the return line. After rerouting lines ran perfect. It was running up to 4000rpm and then fall on its face and die. Good luck.
good with some critical analytic thinking at max 14amps peak, im no expert but makes sense to me, wires good. had this happend to a toyota tarago "called previa" in usa, we were 1500km from home and lucky road service said common on that model just bang it with a hammer or something hard and wolla got us home eventually, had to bang the tank at every stop/refill.got home ordered pump at ebay ,dropped tank,install new pump, bang good as gold....good old days!!
lol sure are funky and basic in a lot of ways,your welcome Ivan, bit more story great on fuel+wallet,and we could shove our 4kids in and still have lots of room..after 450,000 ks she got a bit old in general + paint due to harsh AU Sun etc so we sold it.that's life i guess..TNX For Your Vids..
Hell it’s easier to remove the bed or cut a hole in it depending on how much you like your bed. I guess you can always path that whole fairly easy. Just cut three and folded over.
Excellent video. I do have a question. I am using the test light to check pins 87 30 and 85. Those pass the test light check and I jumped pins 30 and 87 and the pump runs,but I tried the prime circuit #86 when turning on the key and I got no light. So with pins 30&87 jumped together and the pump works what would the problem be where I am not getting a light on #86? Could it be the ignition switch??
Have to cycle my key on/off 2 to 3 times before suv will start is this a sign of a bad fuel pump, also struggles to get to 2nd gear once driving. Fuse is good by the way. Thanks in advance nice vid and explanations
Daniel Sullivan Dear Dan I own load pro got it imported into UK works great but the way you go on and on u will give yourself serious health issues! at this time of year spread some Christian joy and peace! Merry Christmas, sandy
Three separate tools here: 1) bulb is from a 1970s Yamaha motorcycle instrument cluster, with some banana jacks soldered on from a set of melted Snap-On scope leads. 2)Generic in-line fuse holder with stackable banana jacks soldered on. 3) Yellow narrow spade-to-banana jack adapters are from a kit you can purchase on AESWave.com Hope that helps!
Great video Ivan thank you. I noticed the fuel pump relay is symmetrical and all terminals are same size. I was reading in a ATG manual that GM made the relay that way. And I take it that the relay can go in both ways and work properly. What do you think?
Great work . When you jump terminals 30 and 87 will the pump run off the battery or do you need to turn the key to run ? If you don't jump the correct terminals will you ruin the on board computer system ? I really need to do this , just a bit apprehensive .
HELP PLEASE!! Great video, as it got me more on the track of issue, jumped relay, hit tank and it would kick on like shown in video, but I replaced pump and same thing was happening, only thing is got a question of the relay, pin 87 when checked for ground, yours shown ground through the pump, mine does not, does that mean the ground in the wiring harness is bad?? If you or anyone that reads this could help a guy out it'd be greatly appreciated. Thanks
I did, getting good ground, and even ran a wire to constant on outside of truck to the harness and yet nothing, replaced the crankshaft position sensor as well, and checked the pins at fuse panel , gets good ground and power and even prime ...I don't know wtf is going on
I had a 1984 Chevy truck. The fuel pump was on the right side of the motor. It was easy to change. The pump cost Twenty Five Dollars. It took an hour or so to change. It was good to go. What can't put the pumps back on the side of the motors? Or somewhere easy to get to without dropping the fuel tank.
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics - I can tell that I'm going to enjoy it. It would be nice if you could do a video on making the tools that you had put together (the testlight, relay jumper wires, etc.)
Hi Ivan, I having some trouble with a Toyota Rav 4 2001 SUV. Crank no start. I've sprayed some engine start CRC into the intake and it almost started up. So I'm assuming it's a fuel issue but the security light flashes and it's the original transponder key. So I checked the fuses related to the fuel pump and ignition. All good as well as the relays. Then I when straight to the pump and I don't have a power feed. So I suppled 12v to the pump and it works but on the power probe it reads 8v, not system voltage. Is the fuel pump failing and do I have a wiring issue maybe? Unsure on this one. Thanks in advance Ivan
Good job Ivan. Please can you find me out, where is the fuel pump relay(circuit opening relay) for a 2001 toyota 4runner 3.4l v6. I can't find it, I looked it under the steering wheel drive side and behind the glove box, only I saw one ecu in the drive side an another in the passenger side, I have to test the relay because the fuel pump is shot, it measure across the terminals open. Thanks
Hey Ivan, I've got a 2010 silverado, it has 18 psi key on engine off, after initial prime, psi goes to 0 immediately. It takes a couple cranks to start the truck. And the truck runs at 18 psi. It sets several lean codes. And runs rough. I tested fpcm, pink ignition feed and it was 14.2v running, red with white tracer B+ was also 14.2 running. Then i tested the thick grey wire that is positive to fuel pump. Truck running and idling it was fluctuating between 11.4 and 11.9v. The pink ground to fuel pump was .20mv. Now here is where I'm confused, the battery voltage was 14.2 running. The power feed from fpcm to fuel pump was between 11.4 and 11.9v i know the pump is bad because the check valve is not holding pressure, key off pressure drops to 0 immediately. Was the grey wire power feed to fuel pump supposed to be battery voltage 14.2 or was the 11.4, 11.9 good? My understanding, and i may be wrong is the regulator is built into the pump and the pump is pulse width modulated to increase pump speed to build more pressure or less pressure depending on fuel rail pressure sensor and fuel demand. I called the pump on this truck but I'm questioning myself on the fpcm. Any help would be much appreciated. I'm very green at diagnostics and want an experienced opinion. Because if the 11.4 and 11.9 were supposed to be battery voltage then this truck will need a fpcm also. Thank you in advance for any help!
Hi Ivan. Great video! I got no light when testing the 87 relay port. I did all the same tests you did with your test light and got all the same results except when hooking up my test light to positive battery and 87 relay port. Does that mean bad fuel pump? I checked the connection at the pump itself and all seemed fine. Pump did look a little on the old side though. Thank you in advance.
motoYam82 I was wondering when you were banging on the tank if pieces of the truck were going to fall off. Your area has some severe rust issues. Sometimes i am really glad that there are none of those rust issues where i live. Are you going to brave the tank straps or pull thr bed? I know we will see in the next part, but im dying to know.
whats up with this Dan Sullivan thing , is he saying that yall don't know what your talking about? myself I think the world of you guys ( south main auto , Scanner Danner , ect. I just happened to watch some of his stuff too . is he the inventor of the load pro or something ? keep up the good work.
I think Dan stumbled upon my "Scientific LoadPro Tool Review" from like half a year ago and just made a response vid, but now he took it down for some reason? Not sure, but there was some good discussion in those comments.
hey I like all the information I can absorb , I figure if 75% of it is right I can figure out whats wrong . I'm just thankful for guy's like you ,Eric O and Scanner Danner for sharing ,So wrench on brother.
ground strap ?...if it breaks fuel won't flow, if it's badly corroded truck will miss...strap runs from back of engine ( very hard to get to ) down thru a tube to passenger side frame..it's a flat looking ground strap...sucks
i thot gm had a wire in the harness to bypass the relay sticking out of harness in case relay dies ti test or run pump scanner danner has few vids on that or is it only tge older ones
haha Steve my garage isn't big enough for the LoadPro to collect dust on the shelf... I kindly forwarded it to our buddy Eric at South Main Auto so he can have some fun with it too ;)
Just had my fuel pump go out. seems to be a common problem with these trucks. I own lots of vehicles, never had a fuel pump fail, and have cars with 300k miles or more. yet my GMC has 150k and already failed fuel pump
