I don’t have to move my hens inside to move my tractor. I move slower and the hens eventually understand what’s coming and come along with me. The wheels don’t have to go too high for it to just cross the ground So we work for the wheels to not be high so it’s less likely they can slip under as it moves. I have run over a few over the years. They survived thank God
Extend the levers through the back of the coop with a pipe through the wall, using a 'z' shaped slot. That way you can lower the wheels from outside the coop, using the z as a ratchet to keep the wheels lowered.
@@tshell41 Very slowly with a small black and decker jig saw. For obvious reasons, don’t “cut” less than 2” diameter pvc this way. The coop was one of my first builds so it was super heavy hahaha and these pvc runners make it a breeze to shift weekly
You could minimize the chick escapees if you changed to a Dutch style type door. The bottom part short enough to step over but tall enough to keep the chicks in. Or just not have the door go so low if you don't need the bottom portion to open at all. I use both ideas, I just described, in a couple of coops I have.
Thanks for the content! I am going to build two sets for my two chicken tractors. I will probably mount them on the outside of mine though as I don't have width limitations.
Great job my friend , i just thought could u put wheels on the outside ? Would save u goin in to lower. Im goin to build one aswell n looking at the possibilities.
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Also. One of our mobile pens doesn’t have the ridiculous hen box off the back (rain falls in when the rubber seal rots for starters) but the back folds down half way and the nesting boxes are right inside And I reach into the dry if it’s raining and can slip eggs onto the container without getting rained on. So I highly recommend that. Furthermore, the hen box gives a raccoon or some other varmit another easy access to climb up on. Ditch the hen box outside for a fold down for the inside
These look like what we call Barred Rocks in America. Great dual purpose birds. Nice large brown eggs, great mom's and the roos are gentle. Good size too hens about 7 to 8 pounds. Roos a pound or 2 bigger..I like the design of your coop..mine is more square ..but then I'm very short too..LOL
You could add two more wheels, and a handle at the end to make pushing or pulling easier. For the egg boxes if you incline the floor at 10 degrees and build a small corridore on the outside of the egg boxes, the eggs can roll out of the egg box into it preventing them from getting dirty or broken. they are the easier to collect.
How tall is the coop door. Is it tall enough for full grown hens? I find that if the little doors are too small it messes up the roosters tail feathers. That is the mistake I made with my coop.
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Good job. Because I have multiple tractors I put my wheels outside so don't have to enter the coop and only use one set of wheels to move all my coops.
So basically: I have a pvc hoop coop I built Plan is to drill a hole through pvc where I want the wheels and put a bolt thru it and then a washer and then a nut and tighten the nut, and then Put the wheel on and then a washer and then a bolt -not too tight Hopefully this works as $ is tight Also planning to move my coop with the chickens inside it 'hopefully' I have chicken wire on the floor Just worried about bird legs getting hurt in the move Ideas? Think this will work?
Lose the chicken wire in the bottom for the sake of the chickens feet. Chicken wire will also not stop a raccoon. Mine have learned to move with me when I live their pen. Move them slow and don’t have the wheels go so high that they can escape underneath. But also hens need to scratch and dust bathe. The chicken wire on the bottom prevents that
