Chinese Hit & Miss Model Engine UPDATE 

It’s pretty simplistic and closely copied the david Kerzel design. Just in a more cheaply, mass produced version. Wouldn’t hurt to have one next to you to copy and improve with your own model so I like that idea. When yours is done, you should improve the banggood/Chinese model also and have them run side by side.

I had plans to power something with it and that’s why I added the pulley, even have some “leather” belts on standby for it but I never made up my mind on what to power or where to mount it.

Small model engine company in Ohio. Their website is cncengines.com

Take a look at the comments of the first video I posted of this engine. I believe I explained it a few times there. Very simple!

Hit and miss engines do not have throttle control. They’re rpm is controlled by the centrifugal governor. No load=less fires=less fuel used, add a load=more fires=more fuel used.

Nathan J 😒

I milled out the hopper to expose it to the cylinder sleeve so it was bare aluminum. It would’ve corroded if not painted. If it were still anodized and untouched then no it wouldn’t have needed painted.

The arm is bent? It’s a pretty sturdy piece of brass I’m not sure how it could’ve bent. Unless if you mean it’s turned because it and the cam gear are only mounted using one bolt so you have to make sure it’s parallel with the valve train. As for the no start, they’re pretty simple. You have your mechanics(the actual parts of the engine) and air, fuel, and spark. If the mechanics are all good ie the spark timing and cam timing is correct and nothing is broken then that leaves air, fuel, and spark. Make sure you have spark first then all that’s left is fuel because obviously you’ll have air. They’re pretty simple but because of that it takes a little know-how to start and tune them properly. Good luck.

@@patalexander4624 Don''t forget compression - the pushrod may not be in the correct position !!

Qual site vc comprou

Completely taken apart, painted each piece individually. Make sure you pay very close attention and even Mark where all pieces go especially the timing gears and magnet for the ignition since there are no timing marks on the engine.

Could run on anything that could be spark ignited. I run mine on lantern fuel or white gas as it’s know because it is less prone to going bad like regular gasoline.

Honestly, yes and no. If it were running at a fairly high rpm like how they run out of the box with no modifications done, I believe it could run something small scale no problem. But with it running slow how they should and how mine is in the video, I don’t believe it could run much of anything. It has very little amounts of torque at this low of an rpm.

Yes it’s just a ground wire going from the ignition box to the engine since the base is made of wood.

I’m not sure what you mean by “ignition timing switch”

Unsure, on a fully tank it should probably run for hours. I usually only run it for about 10 minutes at a time. As long as the water cooling is doing it’s job and it doesn’t over heat, no rest needed.

@@patalexander4624 thanks for reply mate all the best

The model in the video did not have threads in the head for the exhaust, it was just pressed in. I did however purchase the vertical model and that one was threaded. I don’t remember what the threads were. It was a very odd size. I ended up drilling bigger and tapping that model to a more common thread pitch.

@@patalexander4624 The thread size might be m6x0,75 . I will confirm that once I get it, then I will try to build an exhaust. I am currently running a 775 Motor with a 1:2 pulley and I can get 5V and about 1Amp as a stable charging current. The cylinder head gets to about 60 - 80 degrees, so its wise to change the water once in a while. It's pretty amazing how little fuel this engine uses even under load.

@@patalexander4624 The exhaust Size Thread is indeed m6x0,75. There are bowden screws( with a pre drilled hole) for bicycles that fit perfectly. BRB, making an exhaust.