Eachine ET1 Upgraded Hit & Miss Engine 

Robert Hammell how much are these cool little engines

Clink on the link in the video description and it will take you to the website. Ron

@@billhrn4271 I paid $249.00 to Banggood last year. Recently there seems to be price drop---just over two hundred. Amazing price for a machined model engine.

Glad you like them! I am in the process of reviewing their newest engine, the Eachine ET7 and the video will be released next week Nov 26th. I have quite a few engine review videos. All of them are grouped together in one of my playlists. Links for the various engines and discount coupons can be found in the description for each video. Thanks for watching. Please subscribe. That is what keeps this channel running. Ron

Some day it will receive a heavier base. Thanks for watching.

You read my mind.

Matthew, I only have access to one engine at the moment… the EXT vertical hit & miss. The shaft is 8mm diameter and approximately 22-25mm long… which is the length up to the disc containing the magnet for the hall effect sensor (ignition timing). However that shaft really isn’t available for your purpose since you probably won’t be able to remove the flywheel. These engines really need both flywheels to operate correctly. The disc containing the magnet is grooved to be a pulley, which could be used for an o-ring drive for some external purpose. For the most part, these engines are intended for personal enjoyment, short duration runs and minimal loads. Also, they jumb around so much that they really need a heavier base to stay in one place. Thanks for watching. Please subscribe! That is what keeps this channel going. Ron

This is a dry sump and there is no drip-oiler on the liner... so your only oil for the piston is what is in the fuel. "Exceptions to every rule." The piston rings in these engines are o-rings so if you do not put a little oil in the fuel they will not last as long. Around 5% Marvel Mystery Oil in Coleman Lantern Fuel is plenty and so far I haven't had a problem with it fouling the plug. Thanks for watching. Please subscribe.

Two week delivery to Japan is pretty good. It can take 4 to 6 weeks to get to the USA… maybe longer due to the Covid-19 problems being experienced. Reduced air travel also means reduced airfreight availability. The only time I have had difficulty restarting was when I was using three batteries in the battery pack. Only use two(2) batteries in the back (see video below). Only time I choke the engine is when refilling a completely empty tank to get the carburetor completely primed. I always flip the engine over a couple of times before turning the ignition on. Sometimes after the engine has been running for a while (and warms up) the carburetor needle valve is closed slightly for smoother running. If it is not reopened again (slightly), the engine may be difficult to start. The engine is quite sensitive to needle valve position. Several things can cause the engine not to have compression. Always verify you have compression before trying to start the engine. Sometimes the ignition wire can vibrate too far away from the spark plug. A naphtha-based fuel (Coleman lantern fuel or Zippo lighter fluid) is cleaner burning than unleaded petrol and helps avoid carbon deposits in the head. Watch this video for the correct fuel and getting it to run. Hit & Miss Engines - The Correct Fuel (Troubleshooting a new engine, which will not start. Fuels it will and will not run on.) ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-TvLziWCI7Oo.html I also have a couple of videos on making a starter for a cordless drill, which helps with a uncooperative engine. Cordless Drill Starter for Eachine Hit & Miss Engines ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-sYsjoMWHSDg.html Cordless Drill Starter for Hit & Miss Engines - 3D Printed Version ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-fN-YEJI3Z-4.html Hope that helps. If you continue to have problems, please let me know. Ron

@@RonaldWalters2010 Thank you for advice.

Beekibye it has very little torque. Wouldn’t power much

Well I did make it: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-5_FH3b9oKvo.html

That runs well. Faster than I expected. Well done! Ron

Ronald Walters Thanks Ron, I think I should make a tutorial after the quarantine heh

With the exhaust held open the intake always remains closed. There is no mechanical connection to the intake valve on this engine. The intake valve on this engine works like a reed valve... suction created by the piston on the intake stroke (with exhaust valve in the closed position) creates a vacuum which pulls the valve open and allows air to be drawn through the carburetor. When the exhaust valve is being held open, air is drawn in and exhausted through the open valve. Thanks for watching. Please Subscribe… that is what keeps this channel available.

Thanks! I appreciate your support. The green o-ring is a high temperature material (or at least higher temp than std black). I turn it upside down and oil the cylinder in an attempt to get some oil around the o-ring. I've reduced the WD-40 in the fuel to around 10% and considering how messy it gets after a run, the cylinder seems adequately lubricated. The high temp o-rings seem to hold up well in many applications. I was surprised one was being used on the piston. Probably a good idea to purchase a few spares unless you have a local source for such things. I ran it 20 or more times (did not keep track or actual run time) and did not run it more than 5 minutes at a time. I view it as a demonstration model and not something to run for long periods. One key is to use only two batteries in the battery pack (use one blank battery). The ignition source seems to work better on the lower voltage. I haven't run it the past two months due to a shoulder operation. Did you purchase a Flame Licker at the same time?

@@RonaldWalters2010 Hahaha, yes I did! 🙂

@@RonaldWalters2010 I received mine and have just completed the maiden run of the engine. It is awesome! Very pleased! I mixed 20% Marvel Mystery Oil and 80% Coleman Camp Fuel. I did not time it, but I think it ran around 30 minutes on a full tank of fuel, 12cc. I filled the water tank, and it was steaming by the end of the run. I also applied a load to the engine from time to time. Such a bargain for this beautifully made engine!

I probably would not run it quite so long. Shorter runs... let it cool off (Ref: the o-ring piston ring).

@@RonaldWalters2010 Hmmm..... okay. I am thinking I have too much oil in the fuel mix as well.

The two AA battery thing seemed to smooth out starting and running... not sure why. The ignition module is sealed with epoxy and I cannot see what is inside (I was following Myfordboy's lead on this one). In this video I was using straight Coleman fuel. A mix with 40% WD-40 was recommended and I have since tried it with no difference in running but hopefully providing a bit of piston lubrication. I assume you know the piston ring is a green o-ring (interesting). It certainly needs a heavier mount to keep it from jumping around... metal base on a concrete block comes to mind. :-) The jumping around (recoil) has some effect on the firing. Larger and/or heavier flywheels would probably slow down the firing. It seems to run pretty well as it is and I will not be changing anything soon. Drip oilers for the piston and the bearing blocks will probably be done. I have another shoulder surgery in 10 days and this will be on a back burner for quite a while. Thanks for watching. Please subscribe!

Hi Karl, my engine arrived 2 weeks ago. I use premixed fuel 1:25 or 4% two-stroke oil.

Yes you do. I have a video on the correct fuel... ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-TvLziWCI7Oo.html Thanks for watching. Please subscribe. That is what keeps this channel running. Ron

Thank you very much für the quick answer, i will watch RU-vid Video and learn from it.

The jumping around is recoil because the base is too lite. It really needs a heavier base.

@@RonaldWalters2010 Some lead fishing weights could help.

Roger, Thanks for watching. Running a bit rich provided some lubrication. There is a second video of this running and I mixed a little WD-40 with the Coleman fuel. I usually drip some oil around the liner and run the piston back and forth a bit before starting. It is a oily mess but that's the way it is with no other lubrication. An oiler for the piston/cylinder would be a good modification. Very good reason to seal any wood with resin or similar to protect from the fuel & oil. The piston ring is a green o-ring so I do not know how long that will last. I see it as a model/demo engine and not intended for long runs. Needle valve setting changes slightly after it warms up. Enjoy your new toy. Ron

There are actually 2 piston rings on the MK2 (silver) version of this engine, they are 22mm OD by 1mm thick, flurosilicone. You can buy them in bulk quantity on E-Bay. With a decent oil mix in the gas, they last about 4-5 hours of running with no load on the engine and are easy to replace. With good oiling the MK2 can run for long periods of time with no worries, it is made with better materials than the older MK1. . The crankpin bearing has shelled inserts, the mains are needle bearings, and the valves/cylinder are stainless steel.

Are the ones you found on eBay green? Do you have a link to the eBay listing? The fluorosilicone o-ring on McMaster-Carr are called low temperature o-rings. Thanks! Ron

www.ebay.com/itm/Oil-Resistant-FKM-Seal-Fluorine-Rubber-O-Ring-Sealing-4-30mm-OD-x-1mm-Wire-Dia/183811679262?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160908105057%26meid%3Db35990fa58f543f39fa9e48b3ed884f8%26pid%3D100675%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D15%26sd%3D183811679262%26itm%3D183811679262%26pg%3D2481888&_trksid=p2481888.c100675.m4236&_trkparms=pageci%3A7c74c556-b915-11e9-82a4-74dbd1804a75%7Cparentrq%3A6c38c0dd16c0a4b7fcbf56d7ffd7555b%7Ciid%3A1 Order 22mm outer diameter- these are the exact high temperature (240 C) rings supplied with the engine, nice to get a set of 100 for about $14.00! Ship from China was fairly fast.

facebook.com/2211755028916785/photos/pcb.2373953836030236/2373952579363695/?type=3&theater

Around 5% Marvel Mystery Oil, not 2 stroke oil. Why? Because it has been found to work successfully.

This little engine does not have an oiling system to lubricant the cylinder for the compression rings. Oil in the fuel will prolong the life of the rings.

These are low compression, relatively low speed, demonstration model engines. The ET5 runs faster. The piston rings are an o-ring. First thing to go will be the o-ring and that is why I put a little oil in the fuel. If you keep it clean and oil everything before every run, it should last a long time. The bearings should be standard Chinese bearings but I would not expect a need to replace them for quite some time. I say “should be” since I have (personally) had no reason to pull one apart to look at them. The bearing will be metric and are listed by dimensions such as “mm thickness, mm OD, mm ID” and hopefully will have a mark something like 123ZZ or F123ZZ for a flange bearing. Spark plugs and o-rings are listed as spare parts. I finally got them to clarify their listings so you know which o-ring fits which engine(s). I have several hours on some of these and have yet to replace an o-ring on the piston. Some tell me the o-rings last 5 hours or more. And 5 hours is a lot of running for one of these model engines. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching. Please subscribe! That is what keeps this channel going. Ron

@@RonaldWalters2010 thank you very much! I subscribed to your channel and will continue to watch all the reviews.. very good channel!

@@RonaldWalters2010 How can I get crankshaft for ET1

Banggood does not sell them. You can try contacting Eachine directly and see if they will sell you one.

You can go to Thingiverse.com and search for AA DUMMY BATTERY and get a few ideas. A friend drew one for 3D printing with a hole through the center. I installed a piece of piano wire in the hole... overall length needs to be the same as a AA Battery. You are just making contact with the terminals so only two batteries are needed for 3V instead of 4.5V Or you could drill a hole through the center of a wood dowel and do the same thing. Thanks for watching!

Or just buy a battery holder for 2 AA’s ;-)

Energy is stored in the spinning flywheel. When the exhaust valve is held open (same thing as compression release) air is drawn in through the exhaust and expelled again, repeatedly, until the governor allows the exhaust valve to close and the engine fires again. While the exhaust valve is held open it cannot draw air through the carburetor because the intake poppet valve remains closed, so fuel is not wasted (economic). Also, when the exhaust valve is held open, the air drawn in through the exhaust and expelled again, has a cooling effect for the cylinder.

Never mixed up a gallon before... that would last a long, long time. :-) 3-4% should be plenty... just gives a bit of a pink color.

To answer your question, yes... the engine block is connected to battery negative. However, your ground (negative) connection should come from your ignition module to ensure the ignition electronics function correctly. Your ignition module is different than mine. My ignition module is sealed with epoxy and I can not see any of the internal electronics. The engine quitting after a short run seems to be an odd characteristic of the ignition modules. Use only two (2) batteries in the battery pack and replace the third with a dummy battery. I mentioned this in the video. That will give you 3 VDC instead of 4.5 VDC and your engine should then continue to run. Thanks for watching. Please Subscribe… that is what keeps this channel available.

@@RonaldWalters2010 Thank you very much for your quick response and your confirmation. I have checked and my ignition box casing is isolated from the circuit board inside so those advice to connect the engine block to one of the screws on the box is insufficient. Would you say the box should be opened and the ground wire from the engine block should be soldered to the battery black wire on the circuit board? I suspect some boxes have the battery negative connected to the box casing while some are not and that might explaine the reason some people have no problems running theirs at all. If this is the case, they are not hit and miss engines, they are hit or miss :-)

I would not expect the engine to run at all without being grounded. Open up the box and have a look... maybe something came loose. The main thing is to use 2 batteries instead of 3.

The ignition system that came with the older (blue) MK1 is total garbage. If it didn't fail quickly it will eventually fail and keep burning up the hall effect sensors. The newer MK2 ignition is all potted in plastic and uses a different sensor. I have yet to hear of any of these newer ignitions failing. The newer ignition can be bought through the Microcosm site, and fitted to the older MK1 engine.

A friend (with a MK1) and myself (with the MK2) have found the ignition runs better with only 2 batteries in the battery pack.

I have not had mine apart to look. When these first came out the piston had two o-rings. Then I was told the manufacture started installing only one o-ring to reduce the compression, which helped slow it down a bit.

These engines usually run pretty easily I am going to give this a WAG (wild ass guess) excuse my French… and say you may have purchased coal oil or kerosene which is the old fashioned wick-burning lantern fuel…. just maybe. I looked at walmart.com and it is a definite possibility. Go buy some genuine Coleman Lantern Fuel (at walmart it would usually be in a 1 gallon metal can). Flush out your tank and fuel line and try that new Coleman Fuel. Walmart usually sells A LOT of Coleman Fuel. My needle valve is just under ¼ turn open, Needle valve position is VERY sensitive. Adjustments in the 1/ 1000’s. Pull the plug and rinse it with the Coleman Fuel and be gentile with it as they are a bit fragile. Good luck and let me know if my WAG was right. :-) The next suggestion would be to only put 2 batteries in the battery pack which means you will need to make a blank for (to bypass) one of the batteries. This will give the ignition system 3 volts instead of 4.5 volts and this has worked on some engines…. but not always. Electronics is sometimes a funny animal. Try the Coleman fuel first. Hope you are subscribed! :-) Ron

One other thing... this runs clockwise as viewed looking at the governor. It runs counterclockwise as viewed from the other side.

@@RonaldWalters2010ron, how long do your batteries normally last. i have had two sets go dead already and i have not even gotten it started. I have changed out the fuel for zippo lighter fluid but havent had much success yet. two other questions (2) is it possible that i am not spinning the flywheel fast enough. you think i need to create a drill spinner to help me get it started the first time (3) occassionally it will freewheel and wont get compression. is it possible the the rod that pushes open the exhaust valve needs to be turned back a little . thanks for your help

Very difficult to diagnose something I cannot see. Have you changed or altered any positions of anything on the engine since you received it? Do you have a spark? Pull the plug wire back and turn the engine slowly and it should fire as the magnet passes over the hall effect sensor (ref my video)… and it should fire just past TDC (top dead center). Always possible the switch is positioned opposite what is shown in my video so you need fresh batteries and play with the switch until you are certain you have spark. If no spark look for a bad connection somewhere. Fairly small wires on the battery pack. Only way it cannot have compression is if one of the valves is sticking open or if the rings have failed on the piston. Since it hasn’t run I don’t think it would be the piston rings. Oil everything including the valve stems, exhaust valve rocker and the slide/guide points for the exhaust valve push rod. The valves need to open and close very freely. If either hangs up it will not have compression. Use light oil like 3-in-1 or Singer Sewing Machine Oil. It is my impression these engines are test run before they are packed so I would not start adjusting things or you could create other issues. When the engine is on the intake stroke there should be a slight clearance between the top of the exhaust valve and the tappet on the rocker arm. Does your spark plug have a gap? If the needle valve is open too far the top of the piston will be wet, the spark plug will be wet and it will not run. My engine runs with needle valve ¼ turn open or slightly less. You should not need to choke the engine. A friend of mine and I have both experienced the ignition system cutting out with 3 batteries in the battery pack. My horizontal engine runs with 2 batteries (3 volts) so you can try a dummy battery in one position to complete the circuit in the battery pack. The exact same ignition system is in my Vertical Hit & Miss and it runs perfectly on 3 batteries. Batteries last quite a while as long as you remember to turn the switch off (therefore you need to verify the correct switch position). I know it sounds silly but when nothing is working…. make sure all three batteries are inserted in the correct direction. I have a friend who at best only has a 50/50 chance of installing a single battery correctly! Flipping the flywheel as seen in my video should start the engine. When you are having a problem a cordless spinner and help. Always use it on the flywheel without the governor and the rotation on that side is counterclockwise. A video showing my 3D Printed starter adapter will be released on Wed Sept 25 with links to the printer files. Always make sure the engine will turn over easily by hand before using the cordless starter.

I don't know. But, you do not need an oiler on the blocks because the crankshaft runs on bearings. With 1% Marvel Mystery oil in Colemans Lantern Fuel you don't need an oiler on the cylinder.

@@RonaldWalters2010 ok...thanks👍

Well, there has always been a slight difference between British and American English. :-) And then I'm trying to maintain my "G" General Audiences rating (often times it is not easy). Thanks for watching... and your funny comment! Ron

This is better than the blue one.

Ronald Walters Alright looks like I’ll have to order me one😉 thank you so much!

I have one of each, the "first generation" blue engine and the "second generation" silver one. The silver engine is mildly improved: 1. The supplied ignition module is in a plastic case, and the internals are encased in potting material. It is not serviceable, but it should be more reliable this way. 2. The governor arm design was changed to a different shape to allow faster and more precise exhaust valve operation. 3. The position of the magnetic ignition disc has been increased from the hall effect sensor, and the disc has also been flipped around 180 degrees. 4. The lower area in the hopper on the cylinder casting has been opened up to allow cooling water to surround the cylinder sleeve insert for improved cooling and better accuracy of the model. The cylinder sleeve has been changed from bronze to steel. 5. A bronze bushing has been added to the crankpin journal for increased rod life- a major improvement. Crankshaft mains are still supported in cased needle bearings. The crankshaft weights are changed from round discs to partial counterweights. 6. The cylinder head casting has been changed so that the spark plug mounting area is cut out and lowered from that of the valves, allowing the plug end to have greater reach in to the combustion chamber. This slightly increases the compression ratio and should allow faster starts.

Generally it should fire a few degrees past TDC (Top Dead Center) so it fires a bit after the piston has made its full compression stroke.

@@RonaldWalters2010 Timing when its fires i change that, the valve has not the good timing. is there not a mark to set it right. I send you a mail maybe you can make pictures for me.

You really need to get in the habit of taking photos or making notes of something before you pull it apart so you can reassemble it. You need two o-rings on the piston before you run it any more. A link for the correct o-ring is in the description for this video. Ignition timing is covered around 4:52 in my video. The exhaust valve opens every other revolution. A cam operates the push rod for the exhaust valve. It should open just as the pistons starts upwards for the exhaust stroke and close just before it starts downward for the intake stroke. The bracket which holds the exhaust valve rocker arm is a fairly loose fit on the cylinder head and it takes several attempts to get it properly aligned with the exhaust valve so everything works smoothly. You are just going to have to play with it until you get it right. If the gears are off by one tooth or the cam slightly out of position it won't run correctly. Also if you changed the length of the exhaust valve push rod that could be a problem. There should be a slight gap between the top of the exhaust valve and the rocker arm when the valve is closed. Watch the following and pay attention to how the valves open and close for each of the 4 cycles of the engine. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Four-stroke_engine Unfortunately there are no timing marks and it is difficult to take a meaningful photo... and I am not going to take my engine apart to take photos. Good Luck.

@@RonaldWalters2010 Nothing has changed Ronald, only the cam. You can not take a picture for me in which position the cam is in position with the ignition. I get the engine with 1 piston ring on it. I send you a e-mail that you can send me back for pictures. Thanks Ronald.

Jakob, Put another o-ring on the piston before you run it any more… it is supposed to have two o-rings. The horizontal hit & miss is out in my shop. I have been sick for the past two weeks and I am not going out into the shop again until I feel better. Looking at the vertical hit & miss (which is the same engine), the piston is just past TDC when the Magnet passes cver the Hall effect sensor (spark plug fires). Approximately 125-130 degrees of crankshaft rotation later the roller just starts up on the cam and 180 degrees later the roller is fully up on the cam (magnet is directly opposite the Hall effect sensor) and remains up on the cam for another 45 degrees of rotation (approximately 225 degrees after firing). And NO I cannot take a picture. Everything is too close together to show any detail (at least with the lens on my camera)… I tried. Besides, the cam is on one side of the engine and the Hall effect sensor is on the other side. Another way to know where the piston is, remove the spark plug and place a rod on top of the piston and watch it go up and down. The rest is up to you. This should be enough information to set the cam. Some fine-tuning may be required after you get it running (with 2 o-rings on the piston).

That was the, "oil anything that rotates, pivots or slides." :-) The con rod and crankshaft run in bearings. I dribble a little oil around them anyway (I use 3-In-One oil) and I hold it up (with the head down) and drip a bit of oil on the wrist pin and upper end. The piston ring is an o-ring. I use a little (very little) Marvel Mystery Oil in my fuel, which is Coleman Lantern Fuel. The oil in the fuel lubricates the o-ring which will eventually need replacing. I also have a video on the correct fuel for these engines. Hit & Miss Engines - The Correct Fuel ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-TvLziWCI7Oo.html Thanks for watching. Please subscribe. That is what keeps this channel going. Ron

@@RonaldWalters2010 Thank you very much.1 will subscribe and keep on waching your valuable videos.

Thank you. Much appreciated!

Hit & Miss Engines - The Correct Fuel ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-TvLziWCI7Oo.html

In my opinion it is better to use Coleman fuel with a very small amount of Marvel Mystery Oil. I have a video on this. Thanks for watching. Please Subscribe! Ron Hit & Miss Engines - The Correct Fuel ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-TvLziWCI7Oo.html

@@RonaldWalters2010 Thank you for reply and advice.

No gasoline. Use Coleman lantern fuel or cigarette lighter fluid.

Which engine do you have ET1 (or M90)? There is no reason to take everything apart to change the o-rings. Unless you took everything apart (flywheels, governor, etc.) to change the piston o-rings the timing should not have changed. If you do not have a lot of model engine experience it can be quite frustrating when one decides not to run. Why an engine won't start.... Fuel too rich... or fuel too lean. An air bubble in the fuel line. One of the valves stuck open (do you have compression?) Some people found carbon holding a valve open. Or the governor pushrod is stuck and holding the exhaust valve open all of the time. Trying to spin the flywheel in the wrong direction (I have seen it done). Videos show correct direction. Ignition switch in wrong position. Batteries inserted in the wrong direction. Dead or weak batteries or a dead or weak battery. Try using two batteries instead of three (you will need a dummy battery to do this). Watch the video. Wrong fuel. Piece of dirt in the carburetor. Watch the following videos. Good luck. Thanks for watching. Please subscribe! That is what keeps this channel running. Ron Go to the playlist on my channel page which lists all of my model engine videos. ru-vid.com/group/PLDjucfhdTRPnyVTbxSs9p-S6nqsk-SRzP Eachine ET1 Upgraded Hit & Miss Engine In this video around 4:29 it explains the timing. Eachine ET6 Hit & Miss - Changing O-rings Essentially the same proces to change o-rings on your engine. Dummy Battery For Hit & Miss Engines For whatever reason... it has been found the ignition system works better (for SOME engines) with only two batteries. Eachine 4 Cycle Engines - Ignition Timing The same timing applies to all of these 4-cycle engines. It should fire JUST PAST top dead center.

@@RonaldWalters2010 ET1… I made a Mess,I know!!… need some nice pictures to find out timing and make it work again

Did you watch the videos I sent you? All the information you need is in those videos.

Ref 6:40 this video. And try this one. Hit & Miss Engines - The Correct Fuel ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-TvLziWCI7Oo.html

@@RonaldWalters2010 Thank you for imformation. Why do you run engine by 2pcs batteries (3V)? it is correct to run enigine by 4.5V (3PCS)

As stated in the video, for whatever reason, 4.5V overpowers the system and the ignition does not fire. Two batteries 3V works reliably. The high voltage ignition pack is sealed with epoxy and we cannot see inside. Thanks for watching. Please subscribe. That is what keeps this channel going. Ron

This is covered in the video and comments. Coleman lantern fuel or cook stove fuel... in some countries called white gas. Hope that helps! Thanks for watching. Please Subscribe.

Not yet. Working on it.

Which one is the new model?

The newest model is called the ET6. It is on the way. Shipping from China is not as fast as it was before the virus. I will review it as soon as I receive it.

With 1% Marvel Mystery oil in Colemans Lantern Fuel you don't need an oiler on the cylinder. A viewer told me he gets 4 to 5 hours no-load running on a set of o-rings and that is a lot of running for one of these little engines. The o-rings work and they are cheap and (while I haven't needed to replace mine yet) they do not appear to be difficult to replace. Oh yes... there are two o-rings on the piston. There are quite a few of these little engines out there and I haven't heard any complaints about the o-rings.

There are links and discount coupon code in the description for the video. Thanks for watching!

When I started working in the oil field over 45 years ago, these engines were all over Kansas, Oklahoma and Texas running oil well pumpjacks. They ran 24/7. Occasionally an oiler would drip a bit of oil or grease here and there and that was about it.

It will run. They are test run at the factory before boxing. Hopefully you haven’t changed any of the positions of anything. Have you? You need to verify (and mark) which way “ON” is for the switch. (a very common mistake) It will not run on kerosene or alcohol. Coleman lantern fuel works well and is cheaper (in the long run) than lighter fuel. Do you have compression? Are you using 3 batteries in the battery pack? Remove one of them and replace it with a blank battery so the ignition is only getting 3 volts. Looking at the governor side flywheel… are you spinning it clockwise?

@@RonaldWalters2010 Thanks for your speedy reply. To Answer all your remarks : yes I did ! First of all... the switch (for the ignition) seems to be the wrong way around, compared with all the ones I have seen in videos...But when I put it in the 'on' position (that will be 'off' to most of you) I do get indeed a healthy spark. I have removed a battery and put a near dead one in its place (gives me a softer spark, but spark nonetheless) I spin the flywheel 'backwards' , away from the head of the engine, as I see everybody do in copious amounts of videos. I have put a mark on the set screw on the carburetor and have fought with that thing for two hours, around the 1/4 turn mark, like everybody professes... I used Kerosene and alcohol, after about two hours messing around with lighter fuel. (desperation, I guess...) Question though... if that Coleman's fuel isn't Kerosene... then what is it? (I am European...) Another remark I need to make... the lead from the ignition to the spark plug (the red cable) was cut off flush with the isolation, and just jammed into a plastic boot that sits around the spark plug. (that can't be right, surely!) I have temporary remedied that too (with the help of an extra lead and a crocodile clip) and yes, I removed the spark plug and checked if I had a spark at the appropriate place.... Anything else you may have to offer in counsel will be gratefully accepted ! Regards Paddy

Thank you all for your remarks, and helpful suggestions... the engine now runs as it should! I used RON95 (95 octane car fuel) and it purrs like a kitten with black-lung ! Meanwhile I know where to get the proper Coleman fuel and an order for a few bottles has already been made ! Thank you all ! Paddy

Glad to help! Thanks for watching. Ron