@@danielsterling4918 it doesn't have a full tang and does break fairly easy. I've seen this in another video. It's a cool looking knife though. It's almost like the ka bar.
Moras are sweedish made and beat almost every knife out there. Especially in price. Get a cheap 511 model for a go bag, or work knife, or a more expensive companion model for bushcraft. Still cheaper than anything on the market
In a survival situation I carry a Cold Steel Drop Forged Hunter, the Survivalist and, as backup blade, the 4Max Scout. As alternative for the big fixed blade I'd carry a Fallkniven A1. It was my go to blade for about 25 years. This long time only is topped by my old, reliable Trailmaster in Carbon V, that never has ĺet me down during the last 35 years. No supersteel for me, I prefer high carbon steel. It may dull a bit faster, but will hoid an edge over the time you use it on your camping or hiking trip. With a small diamond/ceramic stone like the DC 4 or the Worksharp Guided Field Sharpener you are able to get your knife back to razor sharp in no time. This items are small and lightweight, so you are able to carry them without breaking your back. You always should carry a sharpening device, especially in a survival situation, because you may damage the edge of your knife, let them be made of high carbon or modern super steel. You want to carry some sharpening device, because this is the second important survival item, imho.
I personally like 1095 or O1 steel. Sure, people may have an issue with 1095, but my RAT-7 has batoned through nails before (one was hidden in a log, gave me some chips to contend with)
Life rule number 1.... Always carry a knife! Courtesy of Leroy Jethro Gibbs NCIS. I know it's only a TV show but ive lived by that for almost 20yrs and it's saved my life and a few others people lives several times. I recommend both a fixed and a small folding pocket... Always have a back up!!
A good survival knife u can bushcraft with and prep wood and defend yourself with all at the same time. I use a ka bar D2 steel knife works great holds a nice edge
They only partial tang bud just so you know their weak spot it where the blade meets the handle I wouldn’t split logs 🪵 with it buddy just a heads up shel snap great for meat tho
Benchmade 275 Adamas CPM CRUWEAR and Benchmade 539GY ANONIMUS CPM CRUWEAR are my 2 favorite blades . CPM 3V and CPM CRUWEAR are my favorite Super Steels . I also freaking love my Esee 4 1095 .
Agree except I prefer 1095 because sooner or later you are going to have to sharpen your blade and super steels suck when having to sharpen in the field. Becker BK9 is my go to with a CRKT SCRUB piggy backed on the sheath. BK9 is 1095 and the SCUB is SK5.
A decent top of the range Scandi grind Swedish knife, like a Fallkniven or Mora will last you a lifetime if you look after it. I've used both brands for over 20 years now with no issues.
They're getting harder to find! I remember that was the first knife I looked for here at a mercantile store. $60-$80. Now I haven't even seen one for awhile, but I'm going to hit more yard sales.
Honestly not many brands can compete with SurviveKnives. Especially for the price and quality. Alot of Usa knives are 1095 or D2 crap with weird designs for cool factors.
@@brawndothethirstmutilator9848 To those who are knowledgeable about bushcraft. Most modern people don't understand the importance of bushcraft, much less a truly durable bushcraft knife. People are asleep at the wheel.
Stay safe and keep up the videos i can send my kids, as they listen to people like you even though I've known most everything thanks to experience and good teammates.
Where I come from, it is also called a "bush" knife. The point is to have a general purpose knife that can take a beating and can be used in multiple tasks. You want a jack of all trades. Not a knife designed for a specific single purpose. My bush knife is a Guardian 5. And yes, I have to agree that you want a blade between 4 - 6 inches long. I'd even argue 4 inches is to short. Six inches is too long. But to each their own preference.
Very good points!!! I own a few and gotta say my favorite has been the Gunny. I know it’s not very big but if I have a silky saw I don’t need a huge blade!!!
Looks like a Work Tuff knife, I chose the Work Tuff Aurora Borealis "Kodiak" with SK85 steel (57-58hrc) 15.25" Overall 0.27" (27/100" 7.0 mm) thick & 9.75" length Blade with a great Kydex Sheath @ 220 bucks. But I also got a similar (when price was an issue) Schrade SCHF 37 1095 Steel 0.24" (6/25" 6.096 mm) thick @ around 37 bucks. Both a superior knife!!!
I will note, a good field knife should be able to be sharpened with relative ease spending 30 minutes+ on sharpening really hard and dense material isn't ideal. It's personal preference though, I'd rather just stick to a good high carbon steel, like 1095 or 01 tool steel
Full tang just means that the blade material extends throughout the handle. If you take the handle off the material it shows the same profile as though it were still on.
Im a fan of the Cold steel SRK it's a fine fixed blade in my opinion, although this particular blade in the video is going to be added to my collection
Honestly curious about your opinion on the spear style knives like the cold steel version, where the handle is a wrapped cone with a hole in it for a screw. The strength seems to be on par with fixed blade knives, as there is more steel making up the handle, it can be used to batton and strike a ferro rod.. and it can be given handles of varying length by fitting a branch into the end.. A small or medium branch can make it Into a decent chopping tool, and a longer branch can make it into an excellent spear for hunting and self defense.
I carry a Becker BK9 Combat Bowie. I use it as an axe, Shelter construction, etc. Even though it's a bit large, after taking it on many trips in the Olympic forest, I've come to really like my Becker BK9. It holds an edge and it's a great survival knife. I did change the handle to micarta ones.
You didn't mention it but you want a thick blade like the one you have. That's exactly the kind of knife you need. Something that will really stand up to doing some work.
I can't stop buying knives. Master Hunter San Mai is one, a couple of Ontarios. Never go wrong with a higher grade Mora. Lots of other Spydercos and Cold Steel.. Current EDC is Spyderco Street Bowie in a front, horizonal carry position so I can draw with either hand should I not want or need the P365 next to it. :)
Seriously though, I had a really nice Cutco fixed blade. Durable knife that held a sharp edge when abused. Unfortunately it grew legs and I just haven't bought another one yet.
I use Mora orange handle knife. I live in the woods of Alaska. I skin and dress several bear and a Moose every year with the same Mora fixed blade. When I take clients hunting they always have these expensive setup from these videos, nice gear out there for wilderness life.
Good tips although you definitely don’t want a super steel for a survival knife. Supersteels will still wear out and if it’s really a surivival situation you’ll definitely need a piece of steel you can sharpen. Steels like 420, 1050, n690 can be sharpened with a flat rock you find on the ground if you really had to and still hold a more than adequate edge. Cpm3v, good luck in a survival situation, steels that are too hard will crack or chip over time and then your SOL. If your going on a 3 day hike then go for it. But if your assembling an actual survival kit to throw in the back of your car or something make sure it’s a softer steel (under 60hrc preferred)
@@Flockingtheherd I have... I'm not saying super steels. I'm saying your average knife steel these days, 1095, 440c, 8cr13mov, 12c27, etc, all can be sharpened easily with river rocks, slate, or sandstones.
My brother gave me a Randall #14 SS, black micarta finger groove handle that goes with me on every campout and hunting trip. Its a little too big for edc so I purchased a Randall Combat Companion. "Stay Frosty".
Only ppl that need a 4 to 6 inch blade are ppl that never should of been in the woods to begin with all you need is a blade as wide as your hand ppl that want a long blade just want to pound it threw wood carve a damn wedge to split wood
For me, the “USA made knives” is a must. I love all knives but for me to purchase, USA needs to be on the blade. I know that we outsource tons to other countries…. So don’t came at me with that. In the end, just do your research and be happy with the purchase… I know I will.
Great video! My current survival knife is actually quite the budget friendly blade, but I definitely don't want to get anything different at the moment. Plus if I lose it, I can buy another one. And that is the Gerber prodigy It's s quite a tank for a $60 blade and is the perfect size for me for a belt knife. Pair it with a small neck knife and a machete, there's nothing you can't slice, cut or chop in the woods. And it's made in the US, unfortunately in the most liberal city in the world,... But at least it's made in the US
The problem with that advice, is that many places consider over 3" a weapon so it's much more difficult to carry. A survival knife at home is hardly useful when shit goes sideways outside the home
folding knives can definitely take a beating, and one with a thicker blade stock can perform pretty much exactly like a fixed blade. take it from a guy who's been bushcrafting and camping my whole life. so don't shame folders as not being durable or tough.
I know it doesn't matter with kydex but I think it's good practice to get in the habit of only unsheathing any knife by gripping the sides of the sheath and not have your fingers wrapped around the edge area. A very sharp knife in a poor quality leather sheath or a kukhuri in a traditional sheath could slice through the sheath and cut your fingers if you're not careful
You know whats better if you have a double edged knife like a dagger it could do more damage in a fight or when one side is dull you still could use the other side in the field when you don’t have a knife sharpener at hand or you need to do some quick skinning, you could still hammer splitting wood it to make some firewood just make a cover for one side of the blade that way you could still bash it on the back, make one that wouldn’t make the knife dull, maybe you could even put it on the opposite side of the dagger that way you always got one side sharp and the other side dull, no need to get a sharpener just repair it at home when it gets dull, just move the cover to the opposite side, that way you always get the job done.
I retired my 30 year old Cold Steel Recin V knife, replaced it with a Tops Skullcrusher on my bug out bag and the Tops Operator 7 work for me, that Skullcrusher processes firewood all day long lol
not a fan of super steel knives cause eventually it will go dull then God help trying to get it sharpened in a survival situation. with a TOPS Steel Eagle or Esee 5/6 you can resharpen on smooth stone in just a few minutes or use your leather belt to strop it sharp again... then you're ready to go. and those knives are indestructible. I also carry an Lt Wright SOSPES in O1 tool steel in my edc rotation...it is an incredible blade!
