Finally the thing I needed I'm making a fpv drone for my schools science fair and I'm learning a few things about it so thanks for this series so I don't waste money
Im not totally new to the hobby , but I find your videos very informative for beginners or like myself once’s who have been slow on learning the pcs and parts of a quad
You forgot to mention- to program BLHeli32 ESC's you need the BLHeli32 software. The software that works with older ESC's like BLHeli S and so on won't work with new 32 ESCs. That info is pretty important as this video is aimed at beginners that would be stumped when they need to change motor rotation.
Great point, and the most current version. I have had issues trying to flash firmware and getting my settings to save properly, then I realized that my version of the configurator was not current, after updating the configurator I was able to successfully load firmware and write settings to the ESCS
@@xtkfpv5306 , my esc burned while running fpv , my esc 30a but same model not available in india but I have 45a esc, what if happens when I connected to this motor my motor rpm is 2150 and max continues current is 31a.
@@seenivasan2541 Hi Seeni, Yes you can put a larger Amp rated ESC no problems, the RPM is only determined by the KV of the motor multiplied by the battery voltage, so current does not factor in. but you should make sure to try to find the route cause of the failure or the new ESC may fail as well. Common causes of ESC failure include: Short Circuits, Bad tuning, bent motor bell/ out of balance motor, severely damaged prop or sometimes just hitting the ground hard with motor spun up can all cause esc to fail. Sometimes shorted motor wires can also be the cause, insepect your wires and the carbon fiber chasis anywhere the motor wires contact, for burns or burnt smells. Remember carbon fiber is conductive, if you have cuts in your motor wire insulation caused by wire ties or prop strike, the wires can short to each other either directly or through the carbon fiber chasis. Smell your motor on the failed channel or esc circuit, does it smell burnt? If motor windings to get too hot it can melt the insulation, if the motor windings look black or dark brown in color or smell burned, the motor could be internally shorted and cause the new ESC to fail also. When you install new ESC follow instuctions for setup and remember to update your betaflight config to new ESC settings.
Getting interested in making my own drone, thank you for being the logical voice in a see of Vblogs and non-scripted double-talk "tutorials". Thank you.
While it’s nice to have to only replace one individual ESC if it fails, the individual ESC’s quadruple the chance of failure. More parts=More failure points.
Really fuck w the intro! And maybe do a video or two on tutorials for the new DJI digital system? Could ride on the trend for views and also be very helpful for beginners/new viewers which I would assume is increasing a little cause of the new commotions around new products?
I keep trying to buy a DIY kit somewhere, but everyone is out of stock of all the decent kits. If I part it out I can’t get the good components either because everything is always out of stock. It’s so annoying! Where is all the inventory?
Kids these days, with their beeping motors and turtle modes...back in my day we used to make ESCs out of iron we had to mine ourselves. With our teeth!
Hey yall! Just got one.. question.. is 20 amps on a 4s 5 inch drone enough to get started with freestyle? I dont wanna punch too much money in my drone as i dont know if im going to continue FPV or not. I just got 4 of XM 20A laying around and wanna use them for good. Thanks
@@MircoBonfiglio why would they not advertise that a 260a esc seems a lot more powerful than a 65a esc and plus you’ll blow up the esc before the battery meaning the total draw for the esc is 65a
I’ve never built a drone and this video helps a lot. Just one quick question. The current number on the ESC, is it dependent on the battery or the motors? Do I match the current number to the “C” number on the battery or the amp hour on the battery. Or do i look at the motors to tell me what ESC current number to get?
More filtration and high quality FETs and bigger more powerful fets... Higher quality PCBs... Cheap ESCs always have very cheap low quality fets and cheap fets like to pop.... More costly FETs on higher end ESCs are larger and much more robust, can switch faster and cleaner and will withstand abuse much better and have a much less chance of popping.
What do you mean? Those ESCs don't need to be ultra high preformance but rather need to be ultra reliable and smooth with a near zero chance of desync... They would not preform nothing like what a race quad esc does... The switch rate will be far lower, they don't have to deal with massive RPM changes all the time and have to respond to those changes instantly and spool up and spool down the motors and insanely quick rates... A camera ship esc has 2 goals that is ultra reliable and as close to zero chance of desync as possible.