Matt, I want to say thank you for making all these videos. I am planning on building a custom home in the next few years. The information that you have presented is making me look deeper in to the materials that I will be choosing to build my house.
You guys did a pretty good job making this video, why don't you do a series of video's that highlight the design, lot selection, lot prep, concrete, through building phase. It would be beneficial to watch the process using dimensional products.
you're show rocks I have Been a carpenter for 35 years Majority of My career has been Remodels Been in Texas for about a month doing a project I'm very grateful To You your staff,sub contractors, you tube and to the beautiful state of Texas. Respectively DAVID WOOD NORTH STAR BUILDERS
Hey Matt, you can pay the low guy on the totem pole to pre-drill your studs to save on labor cost. Just snap some lines or use some marking paint and tell a laborer to start drilling. Cheaper paying the new guy than an electrician.
Total drill time on a house is maybe an hour at most. And an electrician is going to pay HIS low guy on the totem pole to do it who is paid no more than YOUR low guy on totem pole. Not to mention new construction is ALWAYS, near a100%, bid by the job and having a few holes .... made by gen contractors... in the wrong spots, where all of the hard ones over head, or corners NOT drilled, will not lower your bid any. The electrician already knows you did not drill them correctly as you did not drill enough of them nor are they complete so he has to get his big hole hawg out anyways.
I would be interested in how much care must be made to keeping the studs strait prior to sheathing. I would think they could bow and flex laterally more than standard lumber or an LSL prior to being secured.
I assume the lumber grade is something that is discussed in the design phase of the home build? Do you give the homebuyer a selection of options and they pick the grade? Or do you just tell them the grade you are using? Thanks for the awesome videos your doing
What about water damage cause Ive watched your videos and it seems that regular lumber compared to the lsl or lvl holds up alot better. The video I watched showed that the lumber that had to be replaced was the lsl cause it just doesnt hold up to water like regular wood does
Hi Matt, I will develop my basement recently and need to order about 200 2x4 lumbers with delivery for framing. How can I be sure that the lumbers I will get will have decent quality without much defect? Or it's not a big deal for framing? You know even if I go to home Depot to buy then personally, it's hard to check every lumber
I would only use Doug fir on a house, and nothing else. When you grow up on the west coast and watch all houses being built with fir since about 1950, it gets under your skin. There's also a cost balance factor with the different choices that a builder uses, like Lvl's. They are great but very costly so if a guy has no budget concerns, by all means, go with the Lvl's
In Canada nobody cares about having a wall straight. I have never seen anybody ever check for trueness in framing after the carpenters are done. But then again I’ve heard on numerous occasions over my 18 years working in trades that in the US they build better homes anyway.
I wish my GC paid as much attention to detail and find craftsmanship as you and your subs. Our GC framed our addition while we were on vacation, and they did a generally sloppy, mediocre-quality job. Splintered wood and gaps all over the place, wall studs and door casings not perfectly plum or straight, windows not perfectly level, missing hurricane clip on one of the joists, etc. Then they left the OSB sheathing exposed to the elements for three weeks (multiple thunderstorms and rain in the Northeast). I noticed what appeared to be water that was drying out in the corner inside the addition. I sent them your video on sealing the sheathing gaps with Siga Wigluv tape, and asked them if that was part of their process. They said, "No, it looks like someone trying to sell something, everyone has their motives." To which I thought: "Yeah, right. Matt Risinger is meticulous and I may have hired a bunch of clowns." They finally installed the house wrap and vinyl siding after multiple delays, literally hours after a huge storm was leaking (pouring) water through the 1/8" sheathing gaps. I was up at 4:15am with a flashlight, recording video of the water pouring in, drenching the insulation, and pooling on the concrete slab of the addition. They had a crew there less than 5 hours later, locking all that moisture in with house wrap and siding. Ideally they should have installed the house wrap and siding long before three weeks passed. Alternatively, they should have water-sealed the gaps with tape. Lastly, they should have at least let the moisture dry out and evaporate before locking it in with house wrap. They did none of the above. Don't even get me started on how sloppy the insulation job was. Long-story-short, they overstuffed and crammed it all over the place, didn't cut around any wires, outlets, recessed lights, etc. I pulled all of it out, measured and cut it to size, then carefully put it all back in. OK, I'm done venting now. Don't get me wrong, the GC I hired is a nice guy, a good communicator, and has many positive reviews, but I think they're spread too thin, and use some sloppy scrubs for certain parts of the job. He told me most of his customers don't care about the details except the finish carpentry and overall polish. As long as it looks good, they're OK with it, which is probably true for a large % of the population. I'm guessing he's regretting taking our project because I'm pestering the heck out of him and his crews. Asking a ton of questions, which (without the right diplomacy) can come across as a lack of faith in their competency and quality of their work. Most of these questions are from watching your vids and comparing it to what their process, materials and/or execution. I really appreciate your videos. Almost everything I've learned about best practices, materials, and intelligent building, is from watching your channel. I'm a novice when it comes to all of this stuff, but it's good to know there are people out there like you who take pride in their work and are dedicated to "building science and fine craftsmanship." I'll keep coming back for more knowledge. Cheers buddy.
Hi Colin, Thanks for the honest post. I am a builder in the northeast and had a quick question. When reading a post from a client perspective like yours the question is would you have gladly paid the additional investment to hire a builder such as Matt or myself. Your post states what everyone would want in a GC but as your GC reveals to you most don't care or other wise translated willing to pay to have things done right. Thanks Colin.
Ryan Wagner, absolutely. I truly believe you get what you pay for. I don't mind paying more for superior quality, timeliness, and attention to all the little details. The trick for a client is to try and find someone meticulous for the $ they're willing to spend to maximize value.
Ryan Wagner I think what he was trying to say was that a builder should tell the customer that he( builder) will be doing a mediocre job. See if that gets him the contract. I too had a nightmare w my builder.
I not share you get what you paid there is a lot competition outthere if you hire someone to do the job is bc you are assuming they know the job doesn't matter the price you pay off ... The true is are "good" GC but they don't care bc when you find the issue he will gone with your money even if everting look great outside ... There are responsible people outside and do the job right $ or $$ or $$$ bc they are honest and don't do shortcuts to save pennies
@@deeremeyer1749 wood does move, you can't guarantee it won't happen. If client willing to pay for laminate studs, that's great, but most after seeing price increase would opt out.
Matt, I love your videos. Thanks for making them available on RU-vid. For SPF 2 x 4 studs do you like the finger jointed studs, or do you prefer the full length sawn studs?
Why use douglas fir or yellow pine? We use those in the navy as shoring (emergency structural support) because they soak up water like crazy and expand to create a tight fit. Can't imagine a water absorbing and expanding wood would be good for construction though.
as studs or structural members, they should be dry. I have a fence built from Doug Fir. As long as stained medium dark or darker, it works great. A fraction of cedar. Besides, I get it from the mill circular sawn. beautiful stuff.
I wish I was able to have a house like this. Water tight air tight quiet fire resistant that could survive a hurricane. all that's missing for me would be a basement and secured room for family valuable, gun safe that can act as a panic room
Actually, those things are not missing. The second house in this video (LVL) has a full, finished, below-grade basement. Matt has another video for basement water proofing featuring this house. Also, the house has a Graffunder gun safe in the garage. The framing crew is building a staircase over it.
Newbie here. Whats the difference between a 2x6x10' framing stud lumber and a 2x6x10 regular lumber??? I see stud framing stud lumber at 104-5/8" and 92 -5/8". Does framing stud lumber even come in 10' or 120"???
Anything that is STUD doesn’t come out to 120, it’s a stud that you can put right into a 10ft wall. You have too plate and bottom plate so they take that off the 10 ft ( I believe)
@@carsongoodman5581 Well if you add 4 1/2 inches to 104 5/8 that is a a 108 1/8 which equals 9' 1/8". Are there any 10' framing stud lumber??? or do I just purchase 10 ft regular lumber???
Here in Europe it's all over the place. In Belgium alone we use 300mm OC, 350mm OC, 400mm OC, 450mm OC, and 600mm OC, and that country is roughly the size of Marlyland. It's probably because we have a "Brick in our stomach" and still aren't used to building with wood.
Is there a difference between homes built in town and homes built out in open fields. (My concern is be more exposed to the environment . . . . . wind especially.)
A few years back there was an episode (not sure if it was TOH) with Bob Vila, and they were using an I-Joist type product for the wall framing, specifically designed and built to be used as a stud. There was virtually no waste, and all the pieces were dead straight. I haven't been able to locate a maker. Does anyone out there know of a maker of these? (if they are still around)
@@thursdaythought7201 No, the T-Stud is a relatively newcomer to the game. These were more akin to I-Joists, but stood vertically. The only other time I've seen any reference to them was a review of a Mountain Equipment Co-Op location where they were used. I like the concept of the T-Stud, but have questions about the insulation details that will be needed if spray foam is not being used.
@@VC-Toronto Oh ok, interesting. T-studs pretty much require spray foam insulation. If you aren’t doing any spray foam you have the option to have them pre-sprayed before they are delivered.
Lol, All KD lumber is dried to 19%, HT is not KD, HT can be green lumber put in a kiln for a short amount of time, 60-120 minutes, to kill any bugs inside the lumber. Hardwood for furniture is Kiln Dried, to 9% MC, Moisture Content. KD lumber is not. You can't just buy different wood because you want to, each area of the country uses different wood and a house is engineered by the type of wood AND grade. 2&btr wood is actually designed to lay down, on its side, the 1-1/2" side down, stud grade is designed to take its load from the top down. This was poorly researched, most of these videos I love but this one missed the mark for accuracy and correct information.
I chuckle every time I hear someone saying kilN dried - pronouncing the "n". As an old fart, I can remember when anyone saying that would be laughed at. The "n" is supposed to be silent, but the word has been mis-pronounced by nimrods so long that it has become accepted. Maybe "wrecker" will be pronounce "wuh-recker" somewhere down the road, and nobody will slap their "cuh-nees" and laugh when they hear it.
