I got to compare back to back to back in the same colder and wet conditions a Michelin dh22 magix against a Maxxis minion DHR2 maxgrip and finally the flow snap with the tackee compound. I'm absolutely not a Maxxis fanboy (I black out tire brands with a black shoe marker lol) So.. When it gets colder the Michelin is just dangerous, vee is quite "snappy" but a bit more predictable around freezing temps but the Maxxis stayed planted like a centennial oak... Just needs studs 😂
I aim for low-ish rolling resistance in the rear while maintaining ok levels of grip and braking performance. Front is mostly about grip and braking. So often I will run a little lower profile tread in the rear in a medium/harder rubber compound if available. I don´t puncture tires very often and do a bit of everything on the bike so I tend to go for the "trail" level casings. EXO/EXO+ in Maxxis for example. Was running Vittoria Aggarro rear and Mazza front, both in 4C, trail and 27.5x2.6 (which is more like a 2.5 in real life) until recently. Loved the setup in the summer but in this (very wet) winter I wasn´t too stoked on the performance in the wet and cold, particularly on wet roots and rocks. Currently trying out Onza Ibex 2.6 front and 2.4 rear in their "trail" casing and their soft 45/50a compound. So far so good. Wet grip seems a lot more predictable than the Vittorias, rolling resistance feels fine (but I believe a little higher). Too early to say anything about wear but I have a feeling the rear won´t last as long as the previous Vittoria. It´s all a trade off.
Except for the TPI (and casing thread material - and weave if we are going to be pedantic about it) influence on performance and behavior, this is a very good description and guide for tyre selection. Enjoying riding on hard packed trails with very limited shift in elevation, I gravitate towards very light weight, very low rolling resistance, pliable, limited bounce, low profile and closely spaced tread. As a bit of an oddity I prefer big volume tyres and then up the pressure to get the same feel of control. Like you said in the video: there is a lot of personal preference in tyre selection.
I decided to give the Vee's a go with the WCE and Attack HPL and by God are they grippy on descents. They're a pain in the ass on flat terrain and even uphill but it's a very different conversation when the trail is pointed down.
I have 29x2.35 Vee tire flow snaps, Tackee compound. Good for the price. Also muck around with a crown gem on the rear at times for less rolling resistance.
Traction is good but I retired the flow snap since when it got colder then starting riding like the knobby were made of wood, they were already stiff before being exposed to minus temp, a friggin pain to mount strangely the front one got on easier rear was a whole ordeal 😂
On my Orbea Laufey. I run the standard 29x2.6" size. I run the Maxxis Minion DHF on the front. During the winter I run the Minion DHR2. Been in the UK. sometimes the Maxxis Shorty would be better choice for some of the ride. I don't use the Shorty, as 99.7% of most of my rides they would be useless. During the warmer months. I change the rear tyre toi the Maxxis Recon. As there can sometime be less mud. All the tyres are the EXO+ 3C Maxxterra compound. When the front tyre wears down more. I'm thinking about the Minion DHF in the EXO casing. On my Orbea Rallon. As I've only had it a week and a half. I still run the tyres it can with. It has the Maxxis Assegai in 29x2.5", EXO+ 3C Maxxterra. The rear has the Minion DHR2 in 27.5X2.4" EXO+ 3C Maxxterra casing. I am looking to get a 29er rear wheel and fit the 29x24" Minion DHR2 in the same casing.
I used to be a super fan of these heavy and harder flow snap but when it got under 5°c they starred to be a bit too stiff. I'll try them back when it's a bit warmer outside...
Regarding tire width: It's important to know what width the frame can take. Also, what width can the fork take? For instance, a frame may allow for 2.5" width while the fork may allow for 2.6" width. As the rear tire wears out faster than the front, in this situation you would not be able to swap the front tire to the rear and just buy a new front tire. An important consideration.
Great video! But one part was missing to me: That the carcass do wear too! And over time the tyre will geet so thin that it will break special on tubeless. Carcass measurement can be taken if you pump the old tyre and the new one to the same pressure and measure the with of both with a caliper. The wore one will be much wider than the new one because of wearing and will be demaged sooner. Maybe you can put this in the #askgmbntech video tomorrow...
Hi , I would prefer super grippy sticky tyre for my playground on my doorstep bikepark with trails plenty of roots. Im running dhf & dhr but im due shop around for new set for this new season . Any recomendation would be appreciated. Thanks 😊
It's amazing how much difference it can make depending on which option you get on the same tire in the same size. For those that don't know it's not just marketing BS.
Unfortunately she rarely knows what she’s talking about. So unfortunate that GMBN decided to give her so many to present, when she usually gives wrong or incomplete information. #WheresDoddy #BringbackHenry #Flushannacipullo 👎🏼
@@0530AZTECA pretty sure gmbn would give scripts and details to their presenters. Yes doddy was a lot more in depth and seemed more mechanically knowledgeable but to say she is wrong with the videos she does is just incorrect. Maybe vague info but saying she is the problem is just idiotic.
