Haha. I hear you. I have a cuple more crk I'm looking to pick up. It'll take me a while to save up for them. But makes it even better when you finally do.
neroknives Totally agree with you. People don’t realize it’s honestly not that hard to buy a nice knife if you put back a little money every paycheck. That’s what I do at least. Lol.
I like the idea of doing the disassembly video on week one. I was wondering what you were going to talk about for half an hour but you made a lot of good points that were interesting and I even learned a few things about CRK that I did not know. Also was wondering about the detent hole being drilled all the way through as I have a reate hills like that as well. The disassembly shows the knife for what it is. machine quality and nothing to hide. Makes me love my 21 even more and want a zaan now. Thanks thoroughly enjoyed it!
VC3, as a side note, is a good Loctite alternative as it stays rubbery but works very well. Commonly used on RMR screws when affixed to handguns etc. What people found over time, is their screws had a service life to them when used with Loctite but not VC3. However I think only once did I have a screw come loose on my Umnumzaan. As CRK doesn't appear to use anything from the factory, I totally back your idea of staying away from using any kind of Loctite stuff with maybe special situations where VC3 might be practical. Super great tear down video though!
Oh shoot, forgot to ask. Is there an official torque spec to the install of the screws? I don't always worry about that stuff, but the smaller the screw the more careful I am.
Ironbound84 What’s wrong with Hinderer tolerances? By the way, what everyone calls “tolerances” aren’t tolerances - it’s interference (vs. clearance). You can have an interference fit with high and low tolerances - it will still be an interference fit. Just as you can have high and low tolerances and a clearance hole, that won’t interfere. PS: No need to second guess anything, there’s a place in a collection for both CRK and Hinderer :)
Dude you forgot to talk about the external stop pins lol! It’s awesome because Chris Reeve knives already has stupid crazy tolerances and the washers provide a lot of surface area for the blade so when the knife is properly tightened down it already is extreme side to side rigidity but when you also add in the external stop pins you could basically use thing thing as a crowbar. Also cool is the o-rings around the stop pins help absorb any shock you exert onto the pivot or the scales when you flick the knife open and make it a bit more comfortable to open. It’s almost like Chris reeve made this thing to say “you wanna keep flicking your knives? Fuck you guys then have this thing”. love your videos dude you deserve more subscribers!
Haha. i get tiered of talking about them man. I started over a year ago and been saying it in every video that shows them since. And this was a internal video. The thumb studs are external. That's for the next video :) Thanks for checking out the video man.
What was the deal with not flicking the sebenza's? I flick mine all the time and never had a problem. I know he meant not to wrist flick it. Im just not sure why.
From what he was said on one of his shop tour videos from years ago flicking knives puts “unnecessary” strain and abuse on the knife and you don’t need to flick a knife to open it. I guess he’s just old school like that totally respect that but I flick my sebenzas all the time no problems whatsoever except with my 25 where if the stop pin isn’t tightened properly it can come loose and slightly rotate which will render the knife unable to open.
@@neroknives1828 it is one of the untrue myths regarding CRKs. Tim has spoken about it several times and it doesn't void the warranty. What the stance is from CRK is that it wasn't intended to be flicked but it is fine, however, flicking exerts more force and could potentially cause your lockup to age more quickly than opening it normally with the thimbstud.
Chris Reeve hardware is second to none. Only issue I've seen with CRK is in the sharpening dept. Everything else is damn near perfect. For those that criticize the design as only having two point of contact, you can buy a third contact point, which replaces the lanyard pin, directly from CRK.
I appreciate your videos, very interesting. I'm interested on your opinion on the serrated edge. I think in almost all American knives the serration is sharped on the wrong side if you are right handed.
Do you think the zaan is better for prying than the xm? Both have external stop pins but the zaan was larger washers. Awesome vids by the way. Thanks man!
I really like my Zan but I’m pretty disappointed at all of the tuning I had to do when I got it to make it function properly. They send these out with the lock bar is way too tight. Then they Loctite in the press to fit over travel stop so it is a huge pain to get off. I just expect more for this amount of money
I wish they would do a zaan with full scale inlay and insingo blade shape, or just come out with the 31 insingo s45vn already but the later is going to be over a year wait yet
About the fact that there are only 2 points (pivot and stand off) : if you don't use a lanyard you can order a second stand-off from CRK and it perfectly fit in the lanyard hole. Now you have 2 stand-off at the back and the structural rigidity of your knife increased. See my zaan : i.imgur.com/UoRf21w.jpg
Well whoever doesn't use a lanyard is crazy anyway 😁 Yea. People where doing that on the sebenza's as well. People liked the idea of being able to have a extra pivot for the knife on the knife.
One detail you've failed to mention and should probably bring up during the second week review: the rubber circles on the thumb studs. That seems to be the weakest point of the knife, because it will wear down with time, no matter what. I know you can get replacements from CRK, but I would rather that they've just engineered the knife without them instead. Any thoughts on that? Cool video by the way 👍
The umnumzaan functions perfectly fine without them and just dampen the sound when opening the blade. Tim Reeve mentioned this in a video he did with the CRK Facebook fanpage. You can buy the o rings from CRK but can find them on amazon or elsewhere (6 mm o rings) for cheap
@@codys5727 Agreed, saw the dissasembly video too. Plus those o-rings are dirt cheap, found in your local hardware. You can have fun and puchase other colors as well.
I would guess that the blade stop pin and the overtravel stop pin and maybe the detent ball are press fit. The rest of the hardware is a close sliding or sliding fit since the shaft diameter is smaller than the hole diameter. Press or interference fit would have the shaft diameter larger than the hole for the material interference to keep the parts from moving. At least that is how we do print call outs where I work. Just a guess though, I haven’t measured any parts on a CRK Umnazaan.
You're probably right. I was having a hard time finding a solid definition for interference fit. What i found is that one piece is slightly larger then the other and is pressed into place, and uses friction to keep it in place.
Question for you Nero Basically.... Shits hitting the fan, and you can only take 1 of them with yah... SnG/SMF or Umnumzaan ! =D Look forward to hearing from you!
which would u pick to purchase, umnumzaan or sebenza 21 large? Great review thus the question. swayed me towards umnumzaan, although i like the Sebenzas deep hollow grind better.
Ray Roy I fought with the same decision and went with the 21 as I also love the High hollow grind as well as the pivot collar and the history of the sebenza along with the more neutral ergonomics. Zaan looks nice also but for a first CRK I would recommend a 21. I own a small 21 and it is just gorgeous w a polished blade, polished scales, and Macassar wood inlays. It was my first CRK and really opened my eyes to what a high-quality knife is even after owning a couple hundred knives as high as two and $300. It's almost too nice to take to work so I'll be getting a large 21 PJ next as a work knife. The blasted scales and the stonewash blade Wo inlays is much more suited to work and can be sent to spa and be re-blasted where as the polished inlay model cannot be redone like that one.
@@jkstdstang Thanks for the input. I have a Large Inkosi drop point with cf from knifeart as my first chris reeve months ago. mainly driving me sebenza would be the fear of missing out because of it being discontinue, moving to the ceramic ball system like my inkosi and umnumzaan. still undecided but i might just get lrg Inkosi since the knifeart exclusive feels lopsided in hand. what are your views on the 31 man?
I have no idea what one i like more. I would say probably the 21, but it's hard to say. Technically the umnumzaan has a deeper hollow grind then the sebenza. The umnumzaan has thicker blade stock and both are the same thickness behind the edge. That means umnumzaan has a deeper hollow grind.
Might not be a bad idea. Maybe two tops. When i do the video's i want to put out everything about the knife, and talk about the things most channel's miss, and you can't really do that in one video. Or atleast i don't know how to get it all into one video yet.
I can do a thoughtless review on any knife in under 10 or 15 minutes. I really don't like doing that tho. Unfortunately there's already a lot of channels that do. I like to really use and carry the knife. And put some thought into it. Idk what ways better.
The CRK hardware is well made and well thought out--more so than Hinderer. The Hinderer hardware's main fault is that (on the XM-18) the female nuts are free-spinning in the handle. If the screws are over-torqued or loctite was used, good luck getting the handle apart. You can use a drill or drill-press, but you're up shit's creek. Same issue with the pivot screw and nut on the Hinderers. The Hinderer hardware is good in terms of quality, but not as user-friendly. A good fix would to be what CRK does and allow for a second bit/tool to hold the nut (not a proprietary spanner bit, etc.). The CRKs are amazing well thought out. YOu don't have any of these issues. The bushing pivot system on the Sebenza is probably the most well-thought out pivot design. Simple, elegant, and fool-proof. Regarding the ball-detent, good idea, but I don't see why they should fix something that isn't broken. I have a titanium liner-lock that is over 24 years old. I've carried and used that knife this whole time. Lock-up is still solid. So the need to upgrade a titanium liner or frame-lock if it's machined properly.
Very well made but there’s so many design choices they made with it that baffle me. My friend who is quite keen on his sent it along to play with & check out. Right from the start I was not impressed beyond the standard CRK quality. Thumb studs that are rounded on the top allow for very little tactile feel to open the knife. O-rings are a perishable item that eventually dry out & stretch. So quiet when you open the knife that I find myself double checking to be sure the blade is secure. An over travel stop seems superfluous beyond providing a place to put their logo. A blade that’s nearly sharp along a portion of the spine AND has that portion proud of the scales in the closed position. A lock bar with a peak on it in the wrong position when you go to close it. It’s also a hot spot when you firmly grip the knife in use. Then there’s the silly nail nick on it which makes zero sense except in one specific way to release the lock bar. A glass breaker plus a couple of pointy spirits at the front of the scales. I am one who really appreciates innovation but to me this is just a walk down a path of absurdity. Love my Sebbies but it’s a hard pass on this model which I think will disappear from the product line before too long. I’ll check out your review(s) on it but right out of the box and in my hands I’m seriously underwhelmed.
