Anyone that is bitching about "Over complicated" "too much work" needs to go back and watch some more videos, familiarise themselves with the precision that is the norm for this channel. It's a joy to see someone else that does things because it's the right way to do them, and isn't afraid of taking a long route to get precision.
Use a internal circlip / snap ring. Works like a charm. Fit it in the grooves I have been in machining for 20 years and have yet to find a more simple method of quick back stopping a workpiece in a Chuck
Interesting, you hope? I was so mesmerized I forgot to sip my coffee, and it got cold. The detail and precision of your work fascinates me. It is interesting and informative to hear your reasoning as you develop a design. Too, the quality of your videos is just superb. You are in the super-hero class! ;)
Very nicely done Stefan! I am honored that you found something useful in one of my videos. I use my stops all the time and as you know they are very handy. ATB, Robin
It is so great to see someone doing such precision work with a little 9 x 20 lathe, especially when you are making upgrade parts for that lathe. I am always watching these guys on youtube with their big, heavy, precision lathes and I suffer from lathe envy. You give me hope as well as good ideas for my little 9 x 20 benchtop lathe. You sir, are an inspiration, even after you upgraded to your newer, larger Enco. The time you spent, sharing your knowledge, will be appreciated for many years to come by those of us in the hobby community. You rock!
Hi Stefan, beautifully elegant solution to "the washer problem", one truly has to appreciate the lengths you go to for precision. Well done and thanks.
Thank you Stefan. YES this was interesting for me! (as always). As I have said before, I learn so much from your videos. I don't understand why you "only" have 14K subscribers. Your channel is a no nonsense, straight to the point, focused on the details machining channel. Nice editing as well. I recommend this channel at every opportunity. Keep up the good work.
Stefan, I totally like your thinking outside the box as they say. I enjoy your attention to detail, and I like your small surface grinder! Thanks for sharing buddy. Razor!
Stefan..I've been watching all of your videos recently and I've started copying some of your ideas. I had a suggestion for the sliding parts of your stand-offs, You might drill and tap the inside end of each piece and attach a low head cap screw that partly covers the end of the slot. That way if for some reason the clamp was loose on one of the sliders it wouldn't go flying when you turned on the lathe. It would be caught by the tongue of the clamp. It looks like you have enough room so it wouldn't restrict your adjustments. EDIT...I see that your screws are close to the end. Perhaps a thin plate welded on would work..... Thanks for all of the inspirations.
I must say I understood every bit of what you were doing, but not until the last did I grasp that there were three stops, one for each jaw. Of course, you only showed one being made . Again of course, you need three points to establish a plane, see remedial Euclid. I knew that you knew that, so I was confused until I saw die ganze Sache, then it all became clear. Hmm.I use parallels for the purpose, same as you showed, adjustable parallels in my case. If I were doing production work, I would certainly consider this stop.Bravo!
just my 2 cents worth, grinding the tool without warping it lay it diagonally on chuck so you are only grinding a portion at each crank that way you can take a heavier cut with less heat.
I haven't watched the whole video yet but talk about "reinventing the wheel "! Joe Pie uses three drilled and tapped holes in the chuck body between the chuck jaws. Into these three holes he screws premade, you could grind them to length I suppose, three machined "standoffs" of the appropriate length. He keeps three sets that equate to the depths of the jaw steps. Screw in the applicable set, mount your stock and machine. If you need to make sure they're all the same or a different height just take the jaws out, run a skim cut over the posts, and re insert the jaws ready for your stock. I do believe he has a video about them on his channel.
If you put a ring of felt between the plate and the back plate inside the chuck, you won't get any more chips inside. Felt to allow for expansion without interference. I did the same thing on my mini lathe's chuck.
I have now witnessed the One Tooth Jaw Punch err Pinch! Unreal how short a region you've managed to get a perfect offset, plus rigidity that might be useful when scribing lines or cutting a key. Still not caught up, but this was worth the time travel. Definitely. I can't actually tell you to keep it up, since this is 7 years ago. I'll go with Congratulations and much future success!
Great job Stefan. A very precise way to get parts to sit correctly in the chuck. My list of items to make gets longer and longer. :-) regards from the UK
so i just finished the build of this backstop ... i use all of the possibilities you talk about at the beginning only Toms from oxtoolco i have to try in the future ... i think every backstop option has its good and less good sides so i use whats the best for the job ... oh god if i hear me talking someone could think i know what i do :-)) im lightyears from stefan , old tony , tom or joe p. from texas away nearly all i know i learned from them and some books of Harold Hall or Tubalcain i just want to thank stefan for his work and that he is willing to show us how it should be done .... thanx...
I too took a liking to Rob Renzetti's chuck stops. I think your interpretation is excellent. I will put some on the list of shop jobs. I think I will have to retire to get all these jobs done! As usual, great video Stefan.
normally i would say the same but not if stefan is doing it he's the master of precision and if he power taps it wont break ... me as a normal human would never do that cause mine would break immediately :-))
"I ground it to roughly 10 mm....." Calipers read 10.000 .. yah.. ok.. only a caliper reading not a mike...but........ you're one helluva machinist - keep 'em coming
Fantastic job, one recommendation, If you use some small shim washers under the hardened depth stops they wont wear the surface of the mounts out where they tighten down.
I am still "mill-less" and undoubtedly ignorant, but when you are aligning the work with an indicator while traversing along it with the power feed, wouldn't it be quicker to knock the piece until the indicator needle becomes stationary, rather than knocking it back to zero? I imagine that knocking it until you reach zero will always rotate the piece and require a repeat pass. I know that the material has a bow, but I'm fairly sure both approaches would be affected by it. Excellent video as always Stefan. I have also been very impressed by Robin's videos. It is such a joy to have so many highly skilled machinists sharing their knowledge with us all.
Personally I would have put those backstop pins to be precisely between two jaws, that way one would have 6-position support for thin work, 3 from the chucks jaws and 3 from the backstop. The reason behind this is because I've seen it multiple times on pieces bigger than 150 mm in diameter and having 20 mm or so of thickness, that when faced, the part is not straight but "bent" frombetween the jaws, as the material flexes between the jaws away from the cutter. And it likes to sing very very easily :D But the backstop position "problem" is easily solved: just drill & tap more holes to the chuck :)
I love this project. I could not help but think of the much simpler solution of drilling/threading maybe 3 holes parallel to each jaw, and then simply make a couple of sets of precision screws to insert directly into the chuck. That would save you from making the sliding system and still accomplish the same. For rigidity, the screws could be made slightly heftier. Anyway, you already drilled 6 holes into the chuck. 3 more holes should make no difference, and this job could be done in a small fraction of the time. Two or three different length screws would handle almost any job. If the workpiece is so small that you would need to slide into the center of the chuck, I suggest an ER collar or a C5 collar would be better suited anyway.
Excellent, what else is there to say? Also, I like your organization of the tools into a set.This problem of holding a thin part always seems to happen to me when we are in a big hurry. This is the best solution I have ever seen. Thank you for sharing this one!
20:15 - Those rotary table spindles have a stepped hole at the bottom side. It is a simple matter to turn a shouldered plug with an M 10 or .375 "- UNC female thread and bump it into place. This will allow you to drop a suitable stud into the bore and thread it tight. A washer or clamp and a nut will then hold the work firmly in place.
Hi Stefan, I'm not proud to say that I know what a forgotten parallel does in a chip pan, something you only do once... NOT TO BE TRIED AT HOME.... Let the pros do it... lol The hardened pins are a good idea since it's easy to make many different height. Cheers, Pierre
Stefan i would also machine soft stops so that you can pull the jaws and machine them on the lathe to give you the grip length need as it seems you will never have the exact size you need
I really like this style. I absolutely agree that the usual spider is too material-intensive. I just wish I had a rotary table. Hard to make either variety without one. Not impossible, but difficult and prone to errors, at least in my hands. I guess parallels will have to work for a while longer... Thank you for sharing this!
But it's not just three bolt holes. It's three slots which have to be either perfectly aligned or oversized resulting in a sloppy fit. I suppose oversized with a through hole to a tapped hole in the face of the chuck would be a reasonable remedy there.
+Jon Miller I know it's not just holes. you drill a .250 hole in the center and the 3 hole pattern. insert dowels and use them to square each slot to the axis of your choosing. it couldn't be much simpler.
Hi mate. I must be the exception to general consensus, but I think that you created a lot of work for yourself, putting it on and taking it off when needing a just simple backstop. I think I prefer the set that Tom uses, quick and easy. Nice and accurate job, though, but that is to be expected from you.
@@StefanGotteswinter I did check it out, but I only have a 150mm chuck like yours and I done have the room. I don't have a surface grinder, so I will turn the posts in place on the lathe.
Joe piezinski's also got a video on simple backstops that are soft, screwed to the chuck face with counter- bored shcs's, and faced on the lathe to identical heights.
Nice built, I can really imagine this to come in handy. I only have one doubt, had you ever feared those sliders to come loose and shoot around the shop at high rpm? Maybe a hard stop would be nice to lock the sliding parts from moving out to far.
Just re watching your videos and I don't remember this one. The designer had a great idea and your work was once again a lot of fun to watch. I did wince at the thought of drilling into the face of a chuck. Sacrosanct! Do they play chords at different speeds?
You might want to think about hardening the parts the pins screw into. Over time the pins will start to eat into those parts and mess up the height. Not much mind you but every little bit counts in such a nice setup. BTW, how true does the face of your chuck run?
Yes, I think I am going to do that, harden it and then take it to the grinder one last time... The face of my chuck is less than 1/100mm runout..and if it wasnt I would take a slight facing cut...or surfacegrind it :)
Very clean, precise work. However, I also started to squirm in my chair when you power-tapped M4 x 0.7 into a blind hole in the chuck body. Question : at 8:33 you describe a "Wise". Please describe - is this a special piece of tooling used only by German engineering firms ?
Hi Stefan. If you enable community subtitles I'll be more than happy to add spanish subtitles to them. I know a bunch of spanish machinists that would love to understand your videos.
the only thing that might happen should you not tighten the clamp enough is the movable piece shooting out by centrifugal force might be a good idea to put some sort of max extension locking pin intoo the design so the blocks cant come out completely and just give you a little scare instead of damaging stuff
Have you ever tried a piece of bar with a bearing mounted in the tool post? Just touch the bearing surface against the part and it will align. Maybe it is not as accurate, I saw it on clickspring.
Hi Stefan I'm a recent subscriber and am binge watching your videos to catch up. The backstop video is awesome but one thing is bothering me a little. When the chuck is on the lathe there is a potential for the stop to become a bullet if the clamps are not tightened all the way. You can't see if they are tight. You could drill and tap for a SHCS behind the stop near the outer edge of the chuck face. This would provide a safety stop.
good to see someone not fearful, i power tap and turn small bores all day 3mm (dont do drill chuck to tight and tap will spin when at end of hole) easy
Definitely needs some kind of a safety stop to prevent the sliding part from flinging out when you forget to tighten the screws or something else goes wrong and for example vibrations work the screws loose...
hi Stefan very nice and accurate job, however i prefer To work small tickness with soft jaws machined a shoulder in the lathe. i follow your videos. .. you are a Vulcan of ideas And suggestions. ..thank you. a question for you. ..where di you Buy your broach set? regards Riccardo
Stefan, I was familiar with other forms of backstop but not this one. Nice video but why do you prefer this over the 'ball bearing' one? BTW I enjoyed the video very much and your precision. Bob
Hi Stefan, you know how much I like your projects since 1/3 1911 model, but this time I have to say that I see a flaw in your design. With this sistem you must be focused all the time and remember to tight the screws or the sliding parts fly away with centrifugal force of the chuck. To prevent this, I would have done blind slots on sliding parts so even when you don't tight enough the screws, the slide will not go anywhere. Greetings my friend.
Yes, yes! He also should put force sensors on jaws. Depending on diameter and material if force is to low he would be unable to turn spindle on (link with spindle rpm is a must!)...
It’s been almost 2 years since you’ve added these stops to your chuck. In that time have you experienced any out of balance or vibrations when using the chuck with the adjustable stops? I’ve been wanting to do this mod since you posted this video but I am concerned with vibrations and it not being irreversible other than putting threaded rod in the holes to cover them up